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Andy_S Micra SR20 - Done Properly

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Dyno plots before turbo was turned up

214bhp and 176ib ft


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Engine nearly rebuilt! Fitted a bucket seat. God damn it too high!! Grr lol

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Scrapped the original micra today! Rip super s

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Bye bye micra rip


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Argh! i give up! im just not meant to have a sr20 micra!

Click images to view bigger

Micra lives on basic stuff connected. Doesnt have AFM connected so idling rough




so all pipework put back together and connections made. Turn engine again and fires up runs sweet as a nut....... for 30secs then BANG.....tap....tap tap tap tap.

quickly turned engine off, checked everything, took rocker cover off and found exhaust camshaft had snapped!




so dont know why it did it but it took the cam out of course and shattered the valve metal circle things (i call them battery wannnabes lol) so dont know what to do now.

Should i rip the engine out of the almera gti and fit it in this and run without the turbo setup..

Should i rip the engine out of the almera and fit it in and put turbo stuff on it and get it remapped by ED

Should i rip the engine out of the almera and fit it in and put turbo stuff on it and change pistons over to lower compression and run it how it was

fit a SR20DET from 200sx, pulsar or anyother car with sr20det engine in it. But would these engines fit as they are rwd motors so gearbox wouldnt fit would it?

i give up. i just not meant to have a sr20 micra! looks to me like ive been had again
 
praps cracked the cam while tightening the caps down andy ? gonna be some bent valves now eh.
best fit the mera engine and run low boost for now imo :)
 
Well we had a bolt which was longer on end of cam cap

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And didn't know and all the others would torque up in sequence to correct settings but this one didn't. Anyway undid everything an re torqued then this one snapped! Basically the guy before Bodged it up. So we had to retap the hole and fit a stud then nut on top and it torqued up perfectly. The cams are turning freely without problem.

I smashed the two colletes and the valve thing that goes on the collets was just lay in engine so need those.


What's the % I've bent valves too?

Like I said it ran perfectly for 30 secs. Gave it some revs and it went bang

Can get another camshaft for £15. Don't wanna use almera at moment unless I swap whole thing over




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should,nt there be 2 longer ones mate ? from the double cap ? and you can test for compression/bent valves with the cams removed and all the valves shut eh
 
frank said:
should,nt there be 2 longer ones mate ? from the double cap ? and you can test for compression/bent valves with the cams removed and all the valves shut eh
Click to expand...
We turned engine on crack on the big but and was hard then easy then hard so I think compression is ok




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Don't know on that part. Only way to tell is remove them all again

Torqued each one to 2nm then all again to 10nm then again to 20nm


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Really!! Oh poo

All we did was mark on caps with tippex dots for numbers. Didn't know bolts were numbered!!

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Thanks. But I meant are there longer and shorter bolts go in certain holes?


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Andy_S said:
Thanks. But I meant are there longer and shorter bolts go in certain holes?


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Click to expand...
just the shorter ones on the inside i guess ?, dunno about the 2 long ones tho ? maybe de/det/ve/highport/lowport are different ?
 
God knows.

If I change whole engine from almera to this would I need to lower compression to fit turbo??




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Andy_S said:
God knows.

If I change whole engine from almera to this would I need to lower compression to fit turbo??




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Click to expand...
depends how much boost you want to run i guess mate, there are a few mera guys running stock internals eh
 
Andy_S said:
God knows.

If I change whole engine from almera to this would I need to lower compression to fit turbo??




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Click to expand...
You don't have to but it is advisable. I would say fix what you have mate.. Its a learning curve

Micra turbo... init
 
Not got a Haynes to help with correct bolt placement.? With the cams did you bolt down straight away on cap at a time.. Eg did you try and bring the cam in to its seat with the force of a single cap. Or distribute the force across all caps to ensure no stress was exerted on the cam?

Micra turbo... init
 
SirChris said:
You don't have to but it is advisable. I would say fix what you have mate.. Its a learning curve

Micra turbo... init
Click to expand...
Tell a lie. People say you need to lower compression.. But with correct mapping you can go without ... But I think you limit you Max power out put.. Don't hold me to that though

Micra turbo... init
 
SirChris said:
Not got a Haynes to help with correct bolt placement.? With the cams did you bolt down straight away on cap at a time.. Eg did you try and bring the cam in to its seat with the force of a single cap. Or distribute the force across all caps to ensure no stress was exerted on the cam?

Micra turbo... init
Click to expand...
yes, the cams can easily snag eh chris, CG10 ones dont because they drop into the bearings without any lobes touching, but most cams will force open some of the valves as you tighten the caps down.
the same with removal, you often have to turn the cam to free off where its snagging against the journals
 
We went in sequence from middle outwards to 2nm then undid And same process again to 6nm then again to higher. I got settings here

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the oil gallery is right next to the bolthole that you drilled and tapped eh andy, maybe blocked the gallery ?
and that oil is very brown ! coolant or snow contamination ? :D
 
We tapped it yes but avoided the oil gully

Also the oil does need to be dropped but for the purpose of it running then we were gonna drop the oil and change it but this happened.

Yes water prob got in from doing the head work outside. As u can see below (No garage u see)

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But that pic was when removing not fitting.


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frank said:
yes, the cams can easily snag eh chris, CG10 ones dont because they drop into the bearings without any lobes touching, but most cams will force open some of the valves as you tighten the caps down.
the same with removal, you often have to turn the cam to free off where its snagging against the journals
Click to expand...
Yeah I wiggle it all in to place with the valves exhorting force on the cam to try and seat things as nicely as possible. ahh is that what it is called... the journal? my phrase the seat in which the cam sits? or the journal is the cap sorry? I should really learn the correct terms.
 
Bummer dude..... imo swap the cyl head from tue other engine... or swap whole engine and run low boost for a while, and rebuild the current lump with forgies etc.

The only other engine option would be gtir sr20, 200sx engine is a no go due to manifolds and vvt sprocket I believe.

G
 
mrcheese said:
Bummer dude..... imo swap the cyl head from tue other engine... or swap whole engine and run low boost for a while, and rebuild the current lump with forgies etc.

The only other engine option would be gtir sr20, 200sx engine is a no go due to manifolds and vvt sprocket I believe.

G
Click to expand...


How do I turn boost down on t28??


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Well the previous owner said he turned the boost up to 9psi from 7psi by adjusting the actuator. Is this true and what do I do? What's this spring?

Also. I love boost I not losing the turbo no way lol :) I love the sucking sound haha


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Andy_S said:
Well the previous owner said he turned the boost up to 9psi from 7psi by adjusting the actuator. Is this true and what do I do? What's this spring?

Also. I love boost I not losing the turbo no way lol :) I love the sucking sound haha


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Click to expand...
yes, you can adjust the preload for a couple of psi, but if there is too little or too much preload the w/g wont work as it should (leakage or boost creep) you should choose the actuator psi for your minimum, then make adjustment via a controller ideally
the spring that i fitted works against the w/g internal spring (so a 10kg internal spring with a 5 kg spring pushing against it drops the pull from 10 down to 5)
 
So get a spanner on the actuator nut? And go anticlockwise to loosen it?


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frank said:
yes, you can adjust the preload for a couple of psi, but if there is too little or too much preload the w/g wont work as it should (leakage or boost creep) you should choose the actuator psi for your minimum, then make adjustment via a controller ideally
the spring that i fitted works against the w/g internal spring (so a 10kg internal spring with a 5 kg spring pushing against it drops the pull from 10 down to 5)
Click to expand...
Damn you and your bloody knowledge and accurate terminology lol

Micra turbo... init
 
frank said:
yes, you can adjust the preload for a couple of psi, but if there is too little or too much preload the w/g wont work as it should (leakage or boost creep) you should choose the actuator psi for your minimum, then make adjustment via a controller ideally
the spring that i fitted works against the w/g internal spring (so a 10kg internal spring with a 5 kg spring pushing against it drops the pull from 10 down to 5)
Click to expand...


I don't have a clue what your saying oh great one! Please dumb it down if u can haha

Basically is it something I can do myself? It's a standard pulsar turbo.

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Andy_S said:
I don't have a clue what your saying oh great one! Please dumb it down if u can haha

Basically is it something I can do myself?




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Click to expand...
:)
inside that actuator ^ there is a diaphram and spring, so the spring pulls the rod back (and that holds the w/g shut)
as the boost grows it blows the diaphram and rod outwards (and that opens the w/g)
so if you pull against the rod with some travel scales, that will give you the poundage of the spring (eg, 10 kg)
so the extra spring lowers that poundage, and makes the w/g open earlier :)
 
I found this which explains a lot of stuff to me

http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discus...ator-blow-off-valve-explained.html#post144045


So that end where the boost pipe goes into is like a chamber. And that pipe is sucking air out?

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Now when it sucks its sucking the diaphragm towards the boost pipe and when it gets a certain force the spring is being overpowered and therefore pulls the rod stick out out connected to the internal waste gate and therefore drops my boost level?

That's how I've interpreted it. I prob wrong like haha

So If I have say a 7psi spring and replace with a 5psi spring it won't hold more than 5psi without opening the waste gate? Or a 10kg spring replacing with a 5kg spring same thing??




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many diesel actuators run on vacuum andy (ecu controlled), but petrol setups run on positive pressure (blowing not sucking :))
 
So the diaphragm is at the boost pipe part not the rod end. So it's blowing it away from boost pipe not sucking it towards it.




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