• Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum

Andy_S Micra SR20 - Done Properly

tegapu2e.jpg

That's the cylinder where I had the head gasket leak. Cleaner than the others!

2nd pic is the one of the other cylinders

ybe4y9e3.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
hmm found this

Pre-ignition Problems

Pre-ignition problems can cause a blown head gasket, especially if you only use your car for city driving. With pre-ignition, there’s a hot spot in the chamber which causes ignition of the fuel before the spark plug has a chance to fire. It could also be due to detonation. This happens is the spark timing is too advanced or the fuel mixture isn’t rich enough. It causes carbon deposits to build up and ultimately erodes and blows the head gasket.


Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/5-causes-for-a-blown-head-gasket#ixzz2GoaWCYrJ
 
Andy_S said:
hmm found this

Pre-ignition Problems

Pre-ignition problems can cause a blown head gasket, especially if you only use your car for city driving. With pre-ignition, there’s a hot spot in the chamber which causes ignition of the fuel before the spark plug has a chance to fire. It could also be due to detonation. This happens is the spark timing is too advanced or the fuel mixture isn’t rich enough. It causes carbon deposits to build up and ultimately erodes and blows the head gasket.


Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/5-causes-for-a-blown-head-gasket#ixzz2GoaWCYrJ
Click to expand...

LOL! Love the way they start out by talking about pre-ignition and then casually throw in detonation as another possible cause. If it were pre-ignition you'd have a lot more to contend with than a blown gasket.....
 
Andy_S said:
hmm found this

Pre-ignition Problems

Pre-ignition problems can cause a blown head gasket, especially if you only use your car for city driving. With pre-ignition, there’s a hot spot in the chamber which causes ignition of the fuel before the spark plug has a chance to fire. It could also be due to detonation. This happens is the spark timing is too advanced or the fuel mixture isn’t rich enough. It causes carbon deposits to build up and ultimately erodes and blows the head gasket.


Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/5-causes-for-a-blown-head-gasket#ixzz2GoaWCYrJ
Click to expand...
det is similar andy, and causes pressure spikes inside the chamber, my understanding is that you need to pull/retard the timing in the max torque area (4 to 5k ish) then you can run plenty of advance after that or @ low load.
your man may have set plenty of retard to try to avoid the det ? that makes it sluggish low down and off boost tho (and raises exh temps).
you only really need special head gaskets and arp bolts if you,re gonna run 2 bar ish
 
Low Rider said:
LOL! Love the way they start out by talking about pre-ignition and then casually throw in detonation as another possible cause. If it were pre-ignition you'd have a lot more to contend with than a blown gasket.....
Click to expand...
Is this in regard to my comments

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
frank said:
det is similar andy, and causes pressure spikes inside the chamber, my understanding is that you need to pull/retard the timing in the max torque area (4 to 5k ish) then you can run plenty of advance after that or @ low load.
your man may have set plenty of retard to try to avoid the det ? that makes it sluggish low down and off boost tho (and raises exh temps).
you only really need special head gaskets and arp bolts if you,re gonna run 2 bar ish
Click to expand...


so what benefits will i get running a pulsar head gasket than a normal almera one? and whatever is done to my engine is in that thread here http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/hi-all-new-k11-turbo.49079/
 
Lol I am still learning so it wouldn't have surprised me if I was talking out my arse.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
u running the eg13det or the sr20det?

get confused with whos running what these days haha
 
found this on a website!

funny this as i was planning giving it a full service a few days after this happened!

A head gasket typically blows from an engine that is running overly hot and it's coolant has lost the ability to keep temperature below normal levels.


Loss of coolant. This causes an engine to get overly hot and expand to much. The two mating surfaces of the Engine Block and Cylinder Head where the gasket lays may expand away from each other and/ or the head itself may warp slightly causing the oil , coolant, or both to leak into each other or into the combustion chamber.

Some may think that if there is no water in the oil, or vice-a-verse then it can't be the head gasket. That can't be further than the truth.

The gasket keeps the OIL , the COOLANT, & the COMBUSTION CHAMBER separate from one another.
If an engine hasn't been properly maintained , like the oil changed regularly & the coolant system flushed & clean, it will develop contaminants and cause deterioration of the gasket. This will eventually cause a gasket to fail.
Because of the water jacket ( or ports) and the the combustion chamber being in such close proximity, a gasket failing between those two areas, will cause only the coolant to escape and it go into a combustion chamber. The coolant will immediately turn to steam and go out the exhaust without the driver knowing until it is to late.
During this phenomena, because the head is so extremely hot in the area of the exhaust valve , the sudden change in temperature from the coolant hitting the head may also cause the head to crack in a place where the metal is thinner.
The crack itself may then go across two areas of critical importance where a sudden change in engine performance alerts the driver of a problem.

The same applies to the oil jacket. It may leak into the combustion chamber but immediately will burn and cause a smoke to develop out the exhaust, giving warning.
Because both water & oil don't belong in the combustion chamber, the engine may start to misfire and/ or run poorly, giving a driver a false sense that a tune-up is all that may be needed.


It is important to regularly flush a coolant system & maintain clean oil and their levels to prevent catastrophic failure that can lead to thousands of dollars in repairs.
Click to expand...
 
Loads and loads of crap on the internet about this. All theory some practice and almost zero relevance other then general knowledge to this thread.

Couple of points:
  1. Running your level of boost should NOT result in head gasket failure
  2. Failure of head gasket means you cannot use a metal head gasket without fear of it leaking due to head block deformities.
  3. Metal rulers to check for head/block straightness are entirely ineffective when using metal gaskets.
  4. Improperly setup engine management will virtually guarantee engine failure or dramatically reduced performance due to poor optimization of the engine setup.
  5. Pulsar head gasket sets are nothing special compared to oem ones. In fact they wont even fit as the dowels are different sizes on your head/block.
  6. Getting a car mapped properly will save all this hassle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  7. Mapped loads of NA to +T SR20s & never have a problem when its been done right.
 
Problem solved... Mapping does save a lot of ball ache andy. My car is currently not being driven really waiting to be mapped... Saves a lot of head gasket and piston issues. You don't want to changing the things every other week... It gets boring.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Ed said:
Loads and loads of crap on the internet about this. All theory some practice and almost zero relevance other then general knowledge to this thread.

Couple of points:
  1. Running your level of boost should NOT result in head gasket failure
  2. Failure of head gasket means you cannot use a metal head gasket without fear of it leaking due to head block deformities.
  3. Metal rulers to check for head/block straightness are entirely ineffective when using metal gaskets.
  4. Improperly setup engine management will virtually guarantee engine failure or dramatically reduced performance due to poor optimization of the engine setup.
  5. Pulsar head gasket sets are nothing special compared to oem ones. In fact they wont even fit as the dowels are different sizes on your head/block.
  6. Getting a car mapped properly will save all this hassle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  7. Mapped loads of NA to +T SR20s & never have a problem when its been done right.
Click to expand...
Boost pressure won't cause HG issues? Or just the boost pressure andy is running. What's the Max you would see on standard internals of a cg13 and what's the standard you would see on an sr20 without issues.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Another point to add is that once you have blown a head gasket is they always seem much easier to fail in future. Reason for this is the engine was built exactly as it should be with exactly the surface finish it should have from new. You'll not manage that yourself.

My post above is regarding Andys boost of 10psi approx. This on any 'normal' Nissan engine will not cause hg failure if the ecu is setup right.
 
Ed said:
Loads and loads of crap on the internet about this. All theory some practice and almost zero relevance other then general knowledge to this thread.

Couple of points:
  1. Running your level of boost should NOT result in head gasket failure
  2. Failure of head gasket means you cannot use a metal head gasket without fear of it leaking due to head block deformities.
  3. Metal rulers to check for head/block straightness are entirely ineffective when using metal gaskets.
  4. Improperly setup engine management will virtually guarantee engine failure or dramatically reduced performance due to poor optimization of the engine setup.
  5. Pulsar head gasket sets are nothing special compared to oem ones. In fact they wont even fit as the dowels are different sizes on your head/block.
  6. Getting a car mapped properly will save all this hassle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  7. Mapped loads of NA to +T SR20s & never have a problem when its been done right.
Click to expand...

so basically if i install just a NORMAL headgasket for a almera gti it will be fine and all i need to be done is remapped by you? :)

what about these other injectors which are wired and turn on when it hits this throttle switch?


oh btw i did notice a wire which should be connected to a injector had snapped off so therefore if i was "gunning" it that injector would of not been working so effectivly i bet i starved the engine???

ED. i will contact you
 
Ed said:
Another point to add is that once you have blown a head gasket is they always seem much easier to fail in future. Reason for this is the engine was built exactly as it should be with exactly the surface finish it should have from new. You'll not manage that yourself.

My post above is regarding Andys boost of 10psi approx. This on any 'normal' Nissan engine will not cause hg failure if the ecu is setup right.
Click to expand...
I still reckon you would get a better seal with the build up of 'stuff' over the years of running. Carbon and all that.

Yeah andy running cg13det. Waiting for mapping. Trust me you don't want the motor without mapping. More issues than I care for.


Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Best seal is from job done properly from the outset. No issues or dramas then when you dont leave anything to chance.
 
Machine shops I use can do a better finish than Nissan did when they built the engines. ARP bolts are unnecessary for this thread.
 
Well frank mentioned them. Frank or andy what's the benefits. They to stop the head lifting under pressure?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Head wont lift under the kind of pressures spoken about here. You don't need them.
 
Ahh so that's what ARP bolts are actually for then? Better at keeping the head on the deck?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
SirChris said:
Well frank mentioned them. Frank or andy what's the benefits. They to stop the head lifting under pressure?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
i,m just saying to get the priorities right chris :) get it running safe first (i chose ed,s wizztune ecu personally), then fit a mls H/G and arp studs if you want to run crazy boost levels
 
frank said:
i,m just saying to get the priorities right chris :) get it running safe first (i chose ed,s wizztune ecu personally), then fit a mls H/G and arp studs if you want to run crazy boost levels
Click to expand...
Oh okay mate. I didn't know what ARP bolts were lol. Defo on priorities that's why the turbo is on stand by until I can get nistune. So how the hell do ARP bolts stretch less? Different materials? What's MLS ?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
SirChris said:
Oh okay mate. I didn't know what ARP bolts were lol. Defo on priorities that's why the turbo is on stand by until I can get nistune. So how the hell do ARP bolts stretch less? Different materials? What's MLS ?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
you can get more clamping force with studs and nuts chris (you,re not turning the stud when torquing down) and multi layer steel :)
 
Its about more consistent repeatable clamping force. You don't necessarily need more and indeed in some cases more is worse since this can lead to distortion of the block and head.
 
After much debate after speaking to Ed. I've decided to get head skimmed and get a new head gasket for it. I was going to replace the whole engine out of my Almera which I still have and then get it down to ed for remapping an dyno but I cannot afford that much as I going Australia for a month in October so need to save a few grand for that. If it goes pop again then ill just have to keep it off the road until I can save up for it to be remapped and done properly.

Ill keep u all posted



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
personally, i think that running the other engine on one of Ed,s pre-installed maps would be a better option andy, he asked me what injectors/maf/psi i was running and used his experience to build the map, tho i did promise to get it dyno,d to check that everything was kosher :) (i will one day, but it runs and drives like a factory install)
 
I have SR20DET maps but not for the configuration of this one, as its not the way I'd approach it. I could get close however.

Good luck with the project Andy.,
 
Ed I will be looking at doing the swap at a later date but I just cannot afford it at the moment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
whats the difference between PULSAR headbolts and ALMERA headbolts?

will Pulsar Headbolts fit a Almera Gti Engine?
Will a Pulsar Headgasket fit a Almera GTi Engine?

Thanks
 
Ed said:
I have SR20DET maps but not for the configuration of this one, as its not the way I'd approach it. I could get close however.

Good luck with the project Andy.,
Click to expand...

hold on,

if i keep my engine in, couldnt i just use a SR20DET ECU from a Pulsar/200sx etc? and remove the extra injectors?
 
Frank is wrong, No pulsar/200sx is odbII, but you cant just plug the ecu in either, that wont work.
 
Worth a try haha.

Can I plug anything into my Ecu and read what it's reading from laptop? Is there not a socket?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Similar threads

Glen
SR20 Micra
3 4 5
Replies
210
Views
28K
Antony
Antony
C
EOI: 1995 LX Micra (slight mods done)
Replies
3
Views
233
CMF_aiirlic
C
Glen
Got some work done
Replies
0
Views
792
Glen
Glen
C
Stupidist things you've done on your micra..??
Replies
20
Views
390
CMF_AB-NRML
C
W
1999 Micra Profile
Replies
10
Views
3K
Welshk11
W
Back
Top