It would be nice to see your setup finally running, as I didn't get to see the last one get finished. Just make sure you finish this one. 
turbo build
- Thread starter Azzydot
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OP
OP
This will get finished soon am hoping in a month, the last one who bought the kit was on his car and dynoed on 1.0 micra he had at 79bhp which was on low boost, I'll try and get dyno sheetsIt would be nice to see your setup finally running, as I didn't get to see the last one get finished. Just make sure you finish this one.
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Who bought the kit
?
?
OP
OP
make sure you put plenty of preheat in the cast Azzy! otherwise the carbon steel will cool too quick and get brittle
[/quote]Yes it's really heavy strong weld on the manifold I will put a small bar over the flange and manifold to hold it for more support
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OP
OP
I have welded and cutted k11 flanges and the last turbo manifold I sold the man never had a problem of any kind, @micramarch will tell u about my weldsThats not what I said mate
It doesnt matter how strong the weld is if you have a brittle grain structure around it. It will shake apart and crack within a couple of weeks (im talking from experience
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Azzy Noddie just trying to help you out with a tip for welding Cast. I have seen Noddies Welding too, He welded my Manifold .
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OP
OP
Yeh that's fine I have done mines how he has mentioned as the casting onto mild steel is harder to stand the heat and can wear off .I have grinded my manifold and same with mild so it holds strong, although I will do checks on it weekly and weld it if needed every month or soAzzy Noddie just trying to help you out with a tip for welding Cast. I have seen Noddies Welding too, He welded my Manifold
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OP
OP
My engines all sorted, only left now is put my build engine in my car and fit all my pipes on and intercooler, wire my injectors on Micra loom, and maf wire, then to eds really to get it mapped
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pollyp
Club Member
erm I think you mean the other way round? if it slips before it reaches your "good" target peak power, no more torque energy will reach the dyno and the graph either flattens out or drops down resulting in a "rubbish" peak power.
like any friction mechanism, whenever it starts to slip and goes from static friction to dynamic friction, the CoF drops and only a portion of torque is transferred to the drivetrain, wheels to turn the dyno.
The rest of the extra torque and revs is basically converted to and wasted as heat which further lowers the CoF and gets worse.
OP
OP
Yeh that's true u spotted that well I didn't relise till u posted thanks
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pollyp
Club Member
yes, get it wrong and it'll be a waste of time, effort n money.
the other scenario I was gonna post is when it makes good power but then starts to slip/glaze over time, which is what happened to my badly bedded and badly abused 3-pad helix clutch when it glazed and again was wasted time & money.
OP
OP
1 thing Polly do I need to bread in my clutch for 500 miles ? As once it's done I will start it up and past it to Ed ? or am I doing it wrong ?
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pollyp
Club Member
to achieve the products peak performance, yes.
just like brakes, they need bedding to get the most performance out of them
OP
OP
I know how u mean, but I can't drive it without a remapped ? coz it will over fuel, I should have got the clucth before in Micra left it n/a and drove it 500miles then swapped it back
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What noddie means is you should pre heat the whole manifold I.e stick it in the oven for a bit.
My old man is a tool maker by trade and spent years fixing cast items. Molds etc and he's always said that you should pre heat the job. It provides a more even heat distribution which helps reduce the chance of cracks when the piece cools.
You can leave the turbo on and running it close to standard by doing the following :-
Leave the wastegate actuator off, put standard injectors and throttle body back.
So long as you haven't modified anything else. It will almost be standard. You Turbo will not spool up, because the actuator is off. It will save you have to put everything back as standard again.
Leave the wastegate actuator off, put standard injectors and throttle body back.
So long as you haven't modified anything else. It will almost be standard. You Turbo will not spool up, because the actuator is off. It will save you have to put everything back as standard again.
OP
OP
I have pre heated it I know how casting is, u can tell by looking at it
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OP
OP
I can't really do that, coz the Injector are bolted in a tight seal in the inlet, and once I wired them up I will have to rewire it all up, and my maf will be wired, but taking all that off it's worth it coz I'll be running probley
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pollyp
Club Member
k lets weigh up the pro n cons of your clutch options.
stock clutch
- no mod required, cheap, easily available
- risk of not handling the target torque, slips and then you still require spending more time & money upgrading the clutch
new paddle clutch, same size
- no mod required, able to handle higher torque (check its specified to perform beyond ur target figure)
- expensive, high wear rate, prone to overheating from poor heat management if abused and then may require spending more time & money upgrading the clutch if glazed
used organic clutch, bigger size
- cheap to purchase, may withstand target figure, low wear rate
- requires redrilling flywheel, unknown condition, risk of not handling the target torque, slips and then you still require spending more time & money upgrading the clutch, prob heavier pedal
new organic clutch, bigger size
- highly likely to handle target figure plus more and consistantly, low wear rate
- expensive, requires redrilling flywheel, prob heavier pedal
under-performing clutch
- less labour, cheaper, convenient, light pedal
- slips n waste fuel n power, waste more time n money upgrading clutches
over-performing clutch
- guaranteed to perform reliably
- expensive parts n labour, heavier pedal
getting the right clutch that balances just between an under and over performing clutch requires alot of factual trial & error, research & testing, which is abundantly available from past members blogs n experience if you search for it.
having too much potential capacity from over-performing over-specced components is in most cases better than finding out you don't have enough and end up forking out for an upgrade.
stock clutch
- no mod required, cheap, easily available
- risk of not handling the target torque, slips and then you still require spending more time & money upgrading the clutch
new paddle clutch, same size
- no mod required, able to handle higher torque (check its specified to perform beyond ur target figure)
- expensive, high wear rate, prone to overheating from poor heat management if abused and then may require spending more time & money upgrading the clutch if glazed
used organic clutch, bigger size
- cheap to purchase, may withstand target figure, low wear rate
- requires redrilling flywheel, unknown condition, risk of not handling the target torque, slips and then you still require spending more time & money upgrading the clutch, prob heavier pedal
new organic clutch, bigger size
- highly likely to handle target figure plus more and consistantly, low wear rate
- expensive, requires redrilling flywheel, prob heavier pedal
under-performing clutch
- less labour, cheaper, convenient, light pedal
- slips n waste fuel n power, waste more time n money upgrading clutches
over-performing clutch
- guaranteed to perform reliably
- expensive parts n labour, heavier pedal
getting the right clutch that balances just between an under and over performing clutch requires alot of factual trial & error, research & testing, which is abundantly available from past members blogs n experience if you search for it.
having too much potential capacity from over-performing over-specced components is in most cases better than finding out you don't have enough and end up forking out for an upgrade.
Enuo
Glorified Electrician
TBH you need to get the cast close to red hot for any noticeable effect from my experience, and then put a metal bucket or similar over it to allow the metal to cool slowly to avoid cracking (from my experience with cast stuff, although that is 1800's material technology...)
Can't you use your spare fuel rail to make things easier to take of and on.
OP
OP
I have preheated it so it's red I did make sure the part am workin on for the weld is nice and hot and clean then welded
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OP
OP
My fuel rail is Diffrent to the one am using and the ones am using are bolted on the inlet manifold if I take of the bolts the seals will never go back in place as they expand in place when they fitted
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OP
OP
[quot e="pollyp, post: 660276, member: 4527"]k lets weigh up the pro n cons of your clutch options.
stock clutch
- no mod required, cheap, easily available
- risk of not handling the target torque, slips and then you still require spending more time & money upgrading the clutch
new paddle clutch, same size
- no mod required, able to handle higher torque (check its specified to perform beyond ur target figure)
- expensive, high wear rate, prone to overheating from poor heat management if abused and then may require spending more time & money upgrading the clutch if glazed
used organic clutch, bigger size
- cheap to purchase, may withstand target figure, low wear rate
- requires redrilling flywheel, unknown condition, risk of not handling the target torque, slips and then you still require spending more time & money upgrading the clutch, prob heavier pedal
new organic clutch, bigger size
- highly likely to handle target figure plus more and consistantly, low wear rate
- expensive, requires redrilling flywheel, prob heavier pedal
under-performing clutch
- less labour, cheaper, convenient, light pedal
- slips n waste fuel n power, waste more time n money upgrading clutches
over-performing clutch
- guaranteed to perform reliably
- expensive parts n labour, heavier pedal
getting the right clutch that balances just between an under and over performing clutch requires alot of factual trial & error, research & testing, which is abundantly available from past members blogs n experience if you search for it.
having too much potential capacity from over-performing over-specced components is in most cases better than finding out you don't have enough and end up forking out for an upgrade.[/quote] I get all the idea of all the options of clutches now I'll go for new 3 paddle 180mm so it's simple fit, if it works for my setup after weeks I'll keep it
Sent from my iPhone using T
stock clutch
- no mod required, cheap, easily available
- risk of not handling the target torque, slips and then you still require spending more time & money upgrading the clutch
new paddle clutch, same size
- no mod required, able to handle higher torque (check its specified to perform beyond ur target figure)
- expensive, high wear rate, prone to overheating from poor heat management if abused and then may require spending more time & money upgrading the clutch if glazed
used organic clutch, bigger size
- cheap to purchase, may withstand target figure, low wear rate
- requires redrilling flywheel, unknown condition, risk of not handling the target torque, slips and then you still require spending more time & money upgrading the clutch, prob heavier pedal
new organic clutch, bigger size
- highly likely to handle target figure plus more and consistantly, low wear rate
- expensive, requires redrilling flywheel, prob heavier pedal
under-performing clutch
- less labour, cheaper, convenient, light pedal
- slips n waste fuel n power, waste more time n money upgrading clutches
over-performing clutch
- guaranteed to perform reliably
- expensive parts n labour, heavier pedal
getting the right clutch that balances just between an under and over performing clutch requires alot of factual trial & error, research & testing, which is abundantly available from past members blogs n experience if you search for it.
having too much potential capacity from over-performing over-specced components is in most cases better than finding out you don't have enough and end up forking out for an upgrade.[/quote] I get all the idea of all the options of clutches now I'll go for new 3 paddle 180mm so it's simple fit, if it works for my setup after weeks I'll keep it
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I see leave it, just let Ed know the mods you are doing/done. He may be able to send you an ecu with a base map, to allow you to drive the car around safely.
It will only allow you to drive slowly at normal daily driving speed. It should help resolve your dilemma.
It will only allow you to drive slowly at normal daily driving speed. It should help resolve your dilemma.
OP
OP
That's other way yes get base map to drive it and bread it in
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micramarchActive Member
New
I see leave it, just let Ed know the mods you are doing/done. He may be able to send you an ecu with a base map, to allow you to drive the car around safely.
It will only allow you to drive slowly at normal daily driving speed. It should help resolve your dilemma.
pollyp
Club Member
Last edited:
Enuo
Glorified Electrician
Bread? Hahahaha
OP
OP
Haha yes bread it in then some welly after that
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OP
OP
I can take gearbox out but I don't have a crane only 1 jack and k11 jack, 2 axle stands, so that's my options only
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pollyp
Club Member
OP
OP
Thanks Polly that is so much for me am really happy that will help me a lot
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Enuo
Glorified Electrician
8 hour round trip...
OP
OP
Enuo
Glorified Electrician
From Bristol? About that
OP
OP
That is really far, thanks for offerin to help I will try and do it my self thing is it's raining everyday
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Enuo
Glorified Electrician
Thats wasn't an offer of help that was an excuse for not helping lol
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