pork
Club Member
just get a seat cutter mate, with the right size pilot, and cut the seats till the clearance is correct (minimum of shims)
Hmmm, not sure I quite have the finesse to do that
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just get a seat cutter mate, with the right size pilot, and cut the seats till the clearance is correct (minimum of shims)
so use the QG with tophats/valve shims eh
i,ve only used this 3 angle one mate, you just run them slow with a bit of lubeAre those seat cutters difficult to use, you tried yourself?
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yes the stem tip is too short for caps, but the QG ones can use caps without shims (lighter/less bounce)
yes the caps are a lot lighter than 2 shims eh, you could cut the seats to suit the caps and then shave a tad from the stems to get the clearances bang-onSo would the caps still go under the buckets?
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View attachment 56425
some lashcaps would keep the weight down neil (rather than 2 x underbucket shims) but the valve stems have very little protruding tho
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/1828984313...9045498&device=c&campaignid=1058853793&crdt=0
honda gx should be 5.5mm mate
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valve-Re...401508944066?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10
yes 16 x cr inlets and no shimsOr use cr inlet valve for the exhaust?
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yes 16 x cr inlets and no shims
i usually bolted a head gasket on and unshrouded the valves first neil
the quench steps neil ? important combustion/anti det design
EBB even added to his head
You can deck the block a bit to tighten up the quish zone they provide to improve compression and det resistance. My measurements said I could take 17 thou off the block, but that was before I went with CG10DE pistons, so if my calculations are correct it will be a high 12.5: 1 or so compression ratio. If I remember correctly others have run higher though so should be ok and I'm running 98 octane.I take that as a no then
You can deck the block a bit to tighten up the quish zone they provide to improve compression and det resistance. My measurements said I could take 17 thou off the block, but that was before I went with CG10DE pistons, so if my calculations are correct it will be a high 12.5: 1 or so compression ratio. If I remember correctly others have run higher though so should be ok and I'm running 98 octane.
From what I've seen, the inlets; smooth out imperfections and smooth to a brushed look, I can't remember what grit but not too fine, like 80? The exhausts and combustion chambers as much as you like as it will help stop carbon build up and hotspots in the combustion chamber.
You can also cut my middle between the pair of valves to create a smoother pathI’ve just concentrated on cylinder 1 ports for now, see what it measures at once I’m happy enough with it, then copy over to the others.
I’ve taken out quite a bit of metal so far just by removing cast marks and blending stuff in.
The exhaust valve, I’ve opened up the throat some, it’s tight getting a decent tool in there.
But being I’m gunna that bloke to cut in the cr12 valve (said he will be able to cut the seat an extra 1mm) I thought I’d see what else can be taken away after that
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Put o bit off oil and test the compression againI did.
I did a leak test yesterday and it wasn’t great, so either my rings ain’t bedded in, or I’ve broke all 4
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