turbo build
- Thread starter Azzydot
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Enuo
Glorified Electrician
So neither of the ends are free to spin?
OP
OP
I been working on this for 5 hours today to get it all done, the oil line won't spin but fits in the engine and turbo line screws in as Normal
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OP
OP
I been working on this for 5 hours today to get it all done, the oil line won't spin but fits in the engine and turbo line screws in as Normal
I have now took the turbo housing arpart I used the 4 bolts that hold the housing, and it came off easy so moved it where I want it , but after all this it's catching the engine block and about 5 mm on the manifold won't shut? I grinded the turbo housing a bit and on the engine block but still catching ?
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Enuo
Glorified Electrician
I don't see how seeing as they tighten in opposite directions relative to each other? You need at least one thread on the hose to be free to rotate or the hose will be massively twisted...
OP
OP
That's wat I just said ? One bolt is fully welded that is the engine bolt feed and the turbo line feed is normal no weld needed coz it fits my turbo, so I tighten the engine bolt first then my turbo bolt last no twist at all
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Enuo
Glorified Electrician
Fair enough just wasn't clear
OP
OP
Fair enough just wasn't clear
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pollyp
Club Member
how are you gonna route the turbo inlet hose/filter with the alternator right in front of the opening? and the position of the WG actuator also seems to conflict with the alternator.
if the tapered cone seal of the oil line and fitting were clean and matching correctly like on mine, then it should seal fine without even needing to weld the line to the fitting.
if the tapered cone seal of the oil line and fitting were clean and matching correctly like on mine, then it should seal fine without even needing to weld the line to the fitting.
OP
OP
Right Polly the waste gate doesn't touch it by 5 mm as that was only a photo how it will look and I have made a longer bar for the altarnator, and for the oil lines it's welded for engine bolt only as I couldn't get the right one so just welded it time being for now, I will get new one after it's all running, for the air filer no I will have it coming out top of engine that was how it will go on for Saab turbo Intake pipe it comes with pipe so I will custom it but keep the flange from that
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OP
OP
for that am using Almera gti brakes and k11 lowering springs spax 35mm
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So no proper handling?
OP
OP
it will have stunt brace that's about it, I will only drive this car 5 miles a day not for track or racing no one
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OP
OP
I know wat u mean I dire a car daily and for the micra I will use it for road use only and only doing it for fun my brotherinlaw will take it once it's done ,
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You are only one person who is currently build 1.3 turbo conversion here. That is why everyone are watching on your thread. Keep it up and I am sure that everyone will help you out. Btw have you show your turbo plan list to those people who are turbo experts? To make sure that everything is right then you can start to build.
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OP
OP
My turbo is all up on my engine only needs to go in my car and get it dyno by Ed and nistune
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frank
Club Member
should be ok mate, the motronic ecu,s can be chipped i believe
OP
OP
frank
Club Member
apparently yes
OP
OP
so I just go to ed with my Ecu and car ?apparently yes
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frank
Club Member
he said he can map them iirc
OP
OP
Maybe angle the flange so the engine block doesnt need cutting / grinding in future?
Last edited:
h701micra
Deactivated Account
You're learning well young one
OP
OP
Frank I still got my wheels on ? Do I take them off can't really see if your wheels or on or off
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pollyp
Club Member
azzy look at the skewed angle of the WG actuator, rod & arm caused by the positioning of the compressor outlet pointing slightly forward and getting in the way.
the rod show ideally be running parallel to the actuator body and angled perpendicular square to the WG arm.
readjust the compressor to point straight down perhaps? the mounting point of the WG actuator can be redrilled
the rod show ideally be running parallel to the actuator body and angled perpendicular square to the WG arm.
readjust the compressor to point straight down perhaps? the mounting point of the WG actuator can be redrilled
OP
OP
Polly if I lower the waste gate rod holder a bit down so it's a straight line with the rods I have to lower my altarnator more futher back ? And if I swap my turbo round so the down pipe is on the left it catches my altarnator ? I have even opened up my turbo and spinned it of the best options so it fits right but no luck I have made k11 manifold so I will try to angle this one might fit then
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frank
Club Member
OP
OP
That's fine
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frank
Club Member
just fit some small washers/packing under the 1 actuator bolt azzy, to angle it in the same direction as the rod
OP
OP
@frank u mean the bolt on the top ?that's My Micra manifold out gona get t25 flange on this one aswell and same turbo on this
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frank
Club Member
pollyp
Club Member
looks like the actuator is bolted onto a mount thats casted into the compressor housing.
what I'd do imo is:
- rotate the compressor housing till the outlet points down and gives room to fit the actuator,
- relocate/remount the actuator inward closer and in-line to the WG arm to both clear the alternator and making sure the rod is square to the arm so it works effectively. will require making a simple bracket to anchor it to the inner side of the housing (basically mount it like on mine),
- cos the actuator is now in-line with, and closer to the WG arm, the rod will need straightening (squeeze in a vice), shortening (so it can screw into the WG arm linkage till the WG is shut and the thread doesn't bottom out), and prob retapped.
what I'd do imo is:
- rotate the compressor housing till the outlet points down and gives room to fit the actuator,
- relocate/remount the actuator inward closer and in-line to the WG arm to both clear the alternator and making sure the rod is square to the arm so it works effectively. will require making a simple bracket to anchor it to the inner side of the housing (basically mount it like on mine),
- cos the actuator is now in-line with, and closer to the WG arm, the rod will need straightening (squeeze in a vice), shortening (so it can screw into the WG arm linkage till the WG is shut and the thread doesn't bottom out), and prob retapped.
OP
OP
OP
OP
Polly am reading your blog from page 1 and checking how u done the turbo and waste gate maybe help my setup
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OP
OP
@pollyp I think u mean weld the actulator flange a bit down so it's inline with the rod ? Ahh that might clear my altarnator yes I'll try it
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pollyp
Club Member
prob should've read through it all and gathered all the required info before u commited getting stuck in
pollyp
Club Member
cutting a simple mounting bracket and drilling/tapping a bolt hole on the inner lip of the housing like on mine would be easier imo and less likely to destroy the original casted actuator mount (if you intend to re-use or resell the turbo in future)
OP
OP
Yeh it's ok there is no dead line but hopying few weeks really
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OP
OP
something I never knew till I called fusions, for a standed clucth I'll be wasting my time and money on the build coz the clucth will slip on the dyno, for a paddle clutch the power will cope but not for daily driving ? I need a organic clucth for my driving and the clucth is fine, called Matt and sorted something out
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