turbo build

Status
Not open for further replies.
pollyp said:
cam shaft bearing caps are 2 -> 6 -> 11nm, basically just hand tight enough to hold the caps on with common sense of feel. don't force em tight like a bear or you'll strip the threads n ur in trouble.
Click to expand...
yes now I got it I'll hand tighten each ones in order of pattern then each one as torque settings in manual,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
As mentioned previously, you SERIOUSLY need to invest in a Haynes manual. It'll put you 50 steps ahead and make this much easier for you.
 
Enuo said:
Link the app?
Click to expand...
punyjasu.jpg
uha6evez.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/
14/01/07/e5y6yte9.jpg

the app isn't copying the link


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So you have the workshop manual... I don't see how you could need to ask any questions, it's literally step by step... it even has pictures...
 
Enuo said:
So you have the workshop manual... I don't see how you could need to ask any questions, it's literally step by step... it even has pictures...
Click to expand...
I do have the manual it shows me am following it same way but some things like timing chain didn't work for me as I did how it told me,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
if the upper chain has been removed but haven't marked/noted where the chain links should exactly be relative to each sprocket,
then I'd remove the lower timing cover and reset/realign the lower chain to the crankshaft sprocket dot,
fit idler sprocket to lower chain,
upper chain to idler sprocket,
fit lower timing cover,
HG, upper head,
hook idler sprocket axle onto the pin on the head,
camshafts,
align upper chain bronze link to idler,
align upper chain silver link to exhaust sprocket dot & secure,
align the other upper chain silver link to inlet sprocket dot & secure,
reset the tensioner spring, bolt onto head and push the tensioner bit inward to release the spring
 
pollyp said:
if the upper chain has been removed but haven't marked/noted where the chain links should exactly be relative to each sprocket,
then I'd remove the lower timing cover and reset/realign the lower chain to the crankshaft sprocket dot,
fit idler sprocket to lower chain,
upper chain to idler sprocket,
fit lower timing cover,
HG, upper head,
hook idler sprocket axle onto the pin on the head,
camshafts,
align upper chain bronze link to idler,
align upper chain silver link to exhaust sprocket dot & secure,
align the other upper chain silver link to inlet sprocket dot & secure,
reset the tensioner spring, bolt onto head and push the tensioner bit inward to release the spring
Click to expand...
Thanks Polly I haven't touched my bottom chain as only doing upper timing coz I was doing my head gasket ? Am guessing the bottom should be marked up if I haven't took the chain off and leave it on tdc marking


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Azzydot said:
Thanks Polly I haven't touched my bottom chain as only doing upper timing coz I was doing my head gasket ? Am guessing the bottom should be marked up if I haven't took the chain off and leave it on tdc marking


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

the reason for marking the exact position of the upper chain with the two cam sprockets and idler sprocket is cos the lower chain, idler sprocket, upper chain and cam sprockets all run at different speeds due to basic difference on gearing.

cos the crankshaft sprocket is smaller than the idler, the locating chain links are no longer certain line up with the sprocket dots after the first turn.
so if you just line up the upper chain to the cams and idlers dots but ignore if the lower chain link are aligned with the idlers dot, then it'll be out of sync and risk affecting engine timing or damage.

if u dont wanna remove the lower cover, you could just keep spinning the crank few times by hand until you can see one of the two lower chains silver locating links (they're evenly spaced apart) lined up with the dot on the idlers big sprocket, then you could line th upper chains 3 links to the dots
 
this is annoying, ive got a prefacelift 1.0 flywheel here that i lightened down to 5kgs ish and sandblasted. could have sold you it if id seen this thread
 
pollyp said:
the reason for marking the exact position of the upper chain with the two cam sprockets and idler sprocket is cos the lower chain, idler sprocket, upper chain and cam sprockets all run at different speeds due to basic difference on gearing.

cos the crankshaft sprocket is smaller than the idler, the locating chain links are no longer certain line up with the sprocket dots after the first turn.
so if you just line up the upper chain to the cams and idlers dots but ignore if the lower chain link are aligned with the idlers dot, then it'll be out of sync and risk affecting engine timing or damage.

if u dont wanna remove the lower cover, you could just keep spinning the crank few times by hand until you can see one of the two lower chains silver locating links (they're evenly spaced apart) lined up with the dot on the idlers big sprocket, then you could line th upper chains 3 links to the dots
Click to expand...
the dots on the idler will line up ok eh paul (the idler runs half crank speed) the coloured links on the lower chain shift on every turn tho :)
 
pollyp said:
the reason for marking the exact position of the upper chain with the two cam sprockets and idler sprocket is cos the lower chain, idler sprocket, upper chain and cam sprockets all run at different speeds due to basic difference on gearing.

cos the crankshaft sprocket is smaller than the idler, the locating chain links are no longer certain line up with the sprocket dots after the first turn.
so if you just line up the upper chain to the cams and idlers dots but ignore if the lower chain link are aligned with the idlers dot, then it'll be out of sync and risk affecting engine timing or damage.

if u dont wanna remove the lower cover, you could just keep spinning the crank few times by hand until you can see one of the two lower chains silver locating links (they're evenly spaced apart) lined up with the dot on the idlers big sprocket, then you could line th upper chains 3 links to the dots
Click to expand...
Sorry I can't see the bottom dots coz I havent took the cover off only know it's on tdc pointer and the chain auto goes in place while the cams only on top needs doing ? Or am I risking it ? The idler sprocket mark is on 1.clock which I have touch so I thought I'll leave it and do the upper chain only ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
frank said:
the dots on the idler will line up ok eh paul (the idler runs half crank speed) the coloured links on the lower chain shift on every turn tho :)
Click to expand...

ah yes that makes sense. the cam sprockets and smaller idler sprockets measure the same diameter.
so the idler always runs 1/2 speed of the crank and the cams run at 1/1 speed of the idler.
so whenever the crank reaches tdc, the dots on the idler sprockets should be resting at exactly the same angle/position.
can azzy or frank verify this visually? cos my spare engines are seized.

logically the gearing should work cos otherwise our engines woulda misaligned n blown up by the first crank lol.
 
pollyp said:
ah yes that makes sense. the cam sprockets and smaller idler sprockets measure the same diameter.
so the idler always runs 1/2 speed of the crank and the cams run at 1/1 speed of the idler.
so whenever the crank reaches tdc, the dots on the idler sprockets should be resting at exactly the same angle/position.
can azzy or frank verify this visually? cos my spare engines are seized.

logically the gearing should work cos otherwise our engines woulda misaligned n blown up by the first crank lol.
Click to expand...
yes paul :)
and its just the 2 idler dots and the tdc azzy
 
Azzydot said:
Sorry I can't see the bottom dots coz I havent took the cover off only know it's on tdc pointer and the chain auto goes in place while the cams only on top needs doing ? Or am I risking it ? The idler sprocket mark is on 1.clock which I have touch so I thought I'll leave it and do the upper chain only ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

ah so with the crank at tdc, the big idler dot is at 1clock and the smaller idler dot is at 5clock, even after several turns?
then that'll verify franks point ;)
 
pollyp said:
ah yes that makes sense. the cam sprockets and smaller idler sprockets measure the same diameter.
so the idler always runs 1/2 speed of the crank and the cams run at 1/1 speed of the idler.
so whenever the crank reaches tdc, the dots on the idler sprockets should be resting at exactly the same angle/position.
can azzy or frank verify this visually? cos my spare engines are seized.

logically the gearing should work cos otherwise our engines woulda misaligned n blown up by the first crank lol.
Click to expand...
Yes I get frank and Polly it's set at tdc so each turn means the upper sprocket turns 1 teeth each time I turn it, I have bought the engine that way and didn't touch the bottom timing meaning it's all set at tdc point and the chain will just go on inlet and ex cams and all done


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Azzydot said:
I wil see how it goes Tommow I hope they line up and all set I'll use a file under the camshafts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
i bet you inadvertently tipped the head over and mixed up the buckets when the dropped onto the floor azzy ? and also let the headbolt washers slide out of position too ?
 
frank said:
i bet you inadvertently tipped the head over and mixed up the buckets when the dropped onto the floor azzy ? and also let the headbolt washers slide out of position too ?
Click to expand...
Yes your right the shims did fall on floor but I got them right and but the silver ones in ex cams and black shims under inlet cam they seem to be same size so it's ok, the head bolt i took out I sealed them in a bag, and the numbers on cam shafts nuts and bolts I have made a not of them in the right order


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Azzydot said:
Yes your right the shims did fall on floor but I got them right and but the silver ones in ex cams and black shims under inlet cam they seem to be same size so it's ok, the head bolt i took out I sealed them in a bag, and the numbers on cam shafts nuts and bolts I have made a not of them in the right order


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
The difference in size of those shims is only a few thousandths of an inch but that can be the difference between a sweet engine and an engine with an irritating tappety noise and less power than it should make...
 
Enuo said:
The difference in size of those shims is only a few thousandths of an inch but that can be the difference between a sweet engine and an engine with an irritating tappety noise and less power than it should make...
Click to expand...
Soon as it fell out I looked at my old pics of then engine top and checked the colour codes of silver and black shims so I can put them back , before doing that I checked all them are the right size, so I went ahead to put them back in


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Did you measure them with digital calipers because I bet they're not all the same size
 
I don't think they'd be massively different, but i would say its worth measuring them all if you still have easy access. If you don't have easy access you'll need to check the valve clearences anyway so you'll notice then if something is awry
Edit: Frank beat me to it :)
 
[q uote="frank, post: 653316, member: 4874"]heh :D just measure the clearances with feelers azzy, and you might need to juggle some around to get the correct gap[/quote]they all fit in tight and flat in? But yes I'll use a feeler and have them gaped don't wana come all this way and bend valves or my cams



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Azzydot said:
frank said:
heh :D just measure the clearances with feelers azzy, and you might need to juggle some around to get the correct gap
Click to expand...
they all fit in tight and flat in? But yes I'll use a feeler and have them gaped don't wana come all this way and bend valves or my cams



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Cam timing does that, clearences will just mean valves not opening fully ot not closing fully. Not closing fully CAN be a problem, but only if the clearance is RIDICULOUSLY out
 
Enuo said:
I don't think they'd be massively different, but i would say its worth measuring them all if you still have easy access. If you don't have easy access you'll need to check the valve clearences anyway so you'll notice then if something is awry
Edit: Frank beat me to it :)
Click to expand...
Yes your right Tommow I will check all 16 and see wat Diffrents they are


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
you wont bend any mate, just burn the seat if there,s no gap, or tappety if the gap is too big :)
 
frank said:
you wont bend any mate, just burn the seat if there,s no gap, or tappety if the gap is too big :)
Click to expand...
Frank I'll have gaps not too opened if my timing is right it should be ok? And if timing is right and it's got no gap or has means I messed the shims up ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Azzydot said:
Frank I'll have gaps not too opened if my timing is right it should be ok? And if timing is right and it's got no gap or has means I messed the shims up ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
nah, you check the gap when the lobe is pointing away from the shim
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

shentyt
Turbo micra
Replies
6
Views
1K
shentyt
shentyt
pork
Corsa piston build with throttle bodies
13 14 15
Replies
709
Views
67K
Confused Bear
Confused Bear
Eire
Few questions about engine build
Replies
21
Views
3K
frank
frank
Joshb
K11 micra project build
Replies
2
Views
1K
Joshb
Joshb
mas12555
March g# turbo build.
9 10 11
Replies
513
Views
31K
jamier2007
jamier2007
Back
Top