turbo build

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Assuming you have the engine, gearbox and shafts, then your options are:
A pre-facelift 1.0l will be ok if you get the gearbox mount
A pre-facelift 1.3l
A facelift non coilpack 1.0l
A facelift non-coilpack 1.3l

You can use the ecu and loom etc thats already on the car. You'll need to source the correct speedo drive aswell mind. You really are better off just buying a 1.3 or facelift 1l and just fitting your engine to it...
 
Enuo said:
Assuming you have the engine, gearbox and shafts, then your options are:
A pre-facelift 1.0l will be ok if you get the gearbox mount
A pre-facelift 1.3l
A facelift non coilpack 1.0l
A facelift non-coilpack 1.3l

You can use the ecu and loom etc thats already on the car. You'll need to source the correct speedo drive aswell mind. You really are better off just buying a 1.3 or facelift 1l and just fitting your engine to it...
Click to expand...
I can go for the 1.3 dizzy model but what headlight front does it have the old or new shape do I look for don't wana get wrong micra lol


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Azzydot said:
I can go for the 1.3 dizzy model but what headlight front does it have the old or new shape do I look for don't wana get wrong micra lol


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Click to expand...



Enuo said:
Assuming you have the engine, gearbox and shafts, then your options are:
A pre-facelift 1.0l will be ok if you get the gearbox mount
A pre-facelift 1.3l
A facelift non coilpack 1.0l
A facelift non-coilpack 1.3l
Click to expand...
 
Just caught up with this again.
I wish you the best of luck Azzy.

... And everyone helping.
 
Azzydot said:
as buying my 1.3 gearbox how do I tell if am getting the right one scrappy will say it's 1,3 when it's not


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Click to expand...

The car with coilpack engines have grey, plastic sections on the lower front and rear bumpers.
You don't want ANY parts from these cars.
 
Yeh I know coil is sports bumpers black front on bumper, I mean is the preface the old Micra lights and facelift with new shape lights ?


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Non coil pack....... old shape like in enuo profile pic. Separate grill.

Coil pack engine.....newer shape, grilles in bonnet
 
so I need the old shape micra so my engine will fit in, what if I got drive shafts and engine mounts gearbox mounts, will it fit in 1.0 micra am asking coz 1.3 are rare to get theses days,


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Azzydot said:
so I need the old shape micra so my engine will fit in, what if I got drive shafts and engine mounts gearbox mounts, will it fit in 1.0 micra am asking coz 1.3 are rare to get theses days,


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Click to expand...

Get a 97 (or any micra up to a 99) 1.0l...You have a 1.3 auto, so buy another 1.3 and stick the stronger auto parts into the manual 1.3. Then stick that 1.3 onto the 1.0l gearbox, flywheel, etc.

Hope that makes sense, and also hopefully that actually works.
 
Huggy444 said:
Get a 97 (or any micra up to a 99) 1.0l...You have a 1.3 auto, so buy another 1.3 and stick the stronger auto parts into the manual 1.3. Then stick that 1.3 onto the 1.0l gearbox, flywheel, etc.

Hope that makes sense, and also hopefully that actually works.
Click to expand...
Yeh that does make sence am saying it coz it's easy for me to get 1.0 Micra and I can use my engine and 1.3 gearbox and other stuff if it's a bolt on then yes I'll rather have 1.0 or 1.3 whatever comes


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Azzydot said:
Yeh that does make sence am saying it coz it's easy for me to get 1.0 Micra and I can use my engine and 1.3 gearbox and other stuff if it's a bolt on then yes I'll rather have 1.0 or 1.3 whatever comes


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Click to expand...

If you use the 1.0l gearbox and running gear (but use a 1.3 engine) you get quicker acceleration, albeit at a lower top speed and lower mpg.
You can even use the 1.0l electrics
 
Huggy444 said:
If you use the 1.0l gearbox and running gear (but use a 1.3 engine) you get quicker acceleration, albeit at a lower top speed and lower mpg.
You can even use the 1.0l electrics
Click to expand...
No no I didn't mean that, I mean car 1.0 only the model only the engine will be 1.3 and gearbox 1.3 but need to know wat I need like shafts ? Other parts ?


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I try to put the timing chain on today with the idler sprocket bolt nut loose so I put the chain on from top both cams then try to fit it on idler pully but it's too tight ? Do I need to take the bottom chain off ? Any helps ?


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CoV said:
Top tensioner locked back?

Are the cam sprockets currently off before you start fitting the chain?
Click to expand...
I haven't loosed the bottom chain,
I have took the inlet sprocket cam off then the the chain went from idler sprocket to ex cam then I try to put the inlet cam on but it does go back in the cam dowel ?


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frank said:
yes, you have to twist the plunger inside the tensioner to retract it eh
is the tensioner still removed azzy ?
Click to expand...
Frank I did removed the upper tensioner but it was a tight fit so I left it while pushing my fingers in? Do u have pics frank and how to


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3uquqe5a.jpg

I left it like that with tensioner on then put the ex cam on with dowel in then last was the inlet cam over the upper chain and it's too tight even with tensioner pushed back and idle sprocket loose ? frank or Polly stani can help me ?


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Azzydot said:
I left it like that with tensioner on then put the ex cam on with dowel in then last was the inlet cam over the upper chain and it's too tight even with tensioner pushed back and idle sprocket loose ? frank or Polly stani can help me ?


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Click to expand...

You need to reset the tension as Franks said Azzy, it will say how in the PDF manual i linked you too.
 
Skinner_87 said:
Have you got the chains on the right sprokets? not sure if ones shorter than the other
Click to expand...
Yes I did put the idler pully on with chain first then ex cam pully 2nd with chain on then last was to wrap the chain on the inlet cam with 22mm nut loose but it just wouldn't go on


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I have cleared things so it's not stopping it from going on but tight fit on the last cam which is the inlet cam with dowel out and the cam out of dowel and got 22mm bolt to tight it but it's not locking in place ?


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Get more confirmation bud because iv slept since, but yeah sure thats how i did it, i struggled to get the chain on also around where you are struggling , then when managed to get it on it looked slack until did the tensioner
 
GlenJ said:
Get more confirmation bud because iv slept since, but yeah sure thats how i did it, i struggled to get the chain on also around where you are struggling , then when managed to get it on it looked slack until did the tensioner
Click to expand...
Yeh did u put the cam shafts bolts on before you put the chain on ?


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1. Make sure chain is where you want it on idler then hook and bolt that in place

2.Put the exhaust sprocket in the correct place on the chain then hook it onto the cam and bolt that in

3.Put the inlet sprocket in the correct place on the chain, this wont hook on as youll need to turn the cam so the dowel and locating part meets and then bolt it

4.Now fit the tensioner
 
Stani1029 said:
1. Make sure chain is where you want it on idler then hook and bolt that in place

2.Put the exhaust sprocket in the correct place on the chain then hook it onto the cam and bolt that in

3.Put the inlet sprocket in the correct place on the chain, this wont hook on as youll need to turn the cam so the dowel and locating part meets and then bolt it

4.Now fit the tensioner
Click to expand...
Thanks stani I will try that maybe it will work if not I guess I will have to bring it to frank lol


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urm do you have a haynes manual cos most of the Qs you've asked will be answered there.
the cam sprocket are 113nm
 
pollyp said:
urm do you have a haynes manual cos most of the Qs you've asked will be answered there.
the cam sprocket are 113nm
Click to expand...
Polly your wrong there the cam shaft bolts on the 10 bolts are from 2nm then 6nm and 12 nm I think? The 22mm bolts are right I know that


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cam shaft bearing caps are 2 -> 6 -> 11nm, basically just hand tight enough to hold the caps on with common sense of feel. don't force em tight like a bear or you'll strip the threads n ur in trouble.
 
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