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Solarice's Project.

ah yeah i know hes mentioned del boy before :)

mot guy was quite vocal lol ...the lads at the garage over the street came out of the shop thinking it was a 2.0 swap. It was still sounding normal at that point as it just had the janspeed on, so it was pretty stock (in comparison to now). :)
 
Sorted myself a catch tank, cost me nowt to make as i had all the bits lying about...looks pretty much ok, but will see how well it works when i start the car. :)

Also got a few other things sorted like spark plugs, the intake pipes are now heatshielded (looks very nice -- though not as obvious in the pics) and what have you...but most of the extra stuff is kinda hidden.

There a few pics for yous below, as im pretty sure the engine bay is now done...all thats really left for correct running is the getting the timing checked and then some mapping (sometime next week...if i get the chance).
 

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looks well thaught out and well planned, loving the brushed ally and blue look. im so so green with envy.

im gonna have to see this in person..
 
Very nice indeed. Can't remember if you've answered this before, but was it a custom exhaust manifold? If so, may I ask the price?

Thanks
 
Cheers guys,

Antony ive always had an idea of where id be putting stuff, but the final layout has kinda happened by accident...as smaller things were moved around to fit bigger more important things (carbon canister vs the oil relocation kit for example)

Retepetsir yeah it was a custom jobby, cost just under £400 but thats in stainless and to the cat front...which considering the space its been fitted in and how helpful the guys were, i was more than happy with. :)

There should be a close up pic of it somewhere in here iirc if you wanna see it more clearly.
 
solarice said:
Cheers guys,

Antony ive always had an idea of where id be putting stuff, but the final layout has kinda happened by accident...as smaller things were moved around to fit bigger more important things (carbon canister vs the oil relocation kit for example)

Retepetsir yeah it was a custom jobby, cost just under £400 but thats in stainless and to the cat front...which considering the space its been fitted in and how helpful the guys were, i was more than happy with. :)

There should be a close up pic of it somewhere in here iirc if you wanna see it more clearly.
Click to expand...

Damn thats cheap! I was looking at the Janspeed SS mani but the cost is nearly £700!

Cheers
 
I dont think they'd make up a system without a car to test fit it to or id ask them about a price for making a similar system for you...can get you the number for them if you wanted to query it with them.

Shame youre not closer really.
 
well some may have seen my other post about timing etc...Well tinkered with a few things and the engine is now idling lower, though the timing is a little jumpy (roughly +- 2 degrees each time but still close to where it should be) and ive got a slight misfire on idle, which wont be helping.

The emanage also keeps getting spikes in the RPM signal (looking like interference as its fairiy random), so ive got at least those things to track down, before i can connect the +ve sc wire up for good. :)

I dont think the misfire should have anything to do with fueling, spark plugs or leads as they are all fairly new...plugs were gapped to 1.1mm and are brand new (will be sticking im some spare plugs just to be sure), the leads are nearly double the resistance to stock nissan (going on Haynes) but are nearly new so i doubt thats causing it, as ive used them fine before.

1.6 injectors were cleaned before fitting, but not a send away jobby...just a soak in petrol and a rough clean down.

Dizzy is a scrapyard replacement, though its got a new rotor arm and cap.

Fuel is at just under 3 bar iirc.

Idle is around 550-650 when warm but the engine seems happier at about 800-900 as the mis seems to go away, could that be because of the longer duration cams or the colder plugs?

Anyone had issues with a bad rpm signal and the emanage causing a misfire?

Im planning on closing the ignition connections back to stock, so ignition isnt routing through the emanage and will see what that does. The ignition table is all blank anyway so it shouldnt be altering the ecu, but its atleast something i can eliminate.

Though the comp i was using to monitor and map now needs fixing (sods law), so typically i'll have to wait for that before i can figure out the rest, as im not setting up the desktop in the street lol.

In the mean time any ideas you've all got for possible solutions, please let me know...as it will let me save some of my hair lol.

Just noticed thats quite a long post, sorry about :D

Cheers,
 
I thought the high idle might be due to the drag caused by the super charger, but as you say, the cold plugs caused the problem, so I am unsure. Maybe the colder plugs require more to spark correctly?? To find out, I would first reduce the spark plug gaps and measure the coil resistance. If the coil resistance is spot on, and reducing the gap doesn't help, I apologize for wasting your time :)
 
a question about your custom manifold, if i sent my "custom/butchered" turbo manifold to the place that your manifold was made do you think they could replicate the dimensions but with a better flow?? the only different thing i would need is the flange to be 5mm lower than it is so i have clearance against the bonnet cheers stani
 
Hard to say tbh stani, they usually work on the car to avoid any fitting problems...but i guess you could always ask them to see if its possble. If you like i'll find the number for you so you can give them a ring, you'll get a deffo answer then :)
 
well if its not one thing its another :D

spent a few hours each day trying to narrow down the idle issue...changed back to stock leads, stock grade plugs, fiddled with the idle and throttle position swtiches...no real joy, though it was getting a little better.

Then today i switched out the adjustable fuel pressure regulator with another one and it ran very rich (which was odd, as it was setup the same as the old one), so a little tinkering on the emanage and other bits and it now seems to be idling spot on...its around 12.5 to 13.8 afr but usually more in the 13's which im thinking is about correct, considering whats on the car.

Timing is also pretty static :)

So im gonna (for now) blame a bad fpr...unless something else pops up and claims responsibility.

Im currently using the emanage on a older desktop pc...the same one i said i wasnt gonna keep moving into the street, but ah who cares lol. If only i had something i could use as rollers and id have my on own basic rolling road setup lol.

Now onto the new issue, its not a big one but its worth mentioning...i hooked up the supercharger to do some rough tests (so the cars running boost properly now, though not officially) anyways, i was planning to run without a bov and so it currently moves air one way (into the engine).

But (which is obvious really after thinking about it) when i back off the throttle, the manifold goes deeper into vaccum for a split second or so...which makes the sc stay turned on...

Can you see where im going with this?.

yup, that split second is causing the system to pressurize and is actually stopping the sc blades and as a result you get some pipework flexing and a horrible noise from the electo clutch...however nothing has been damaged (only did it twice to track down the noise location), though im sure you'd agree totally backing off at somthing like 30mph may probably be a totally different story lol.

On the plus side i now know my pipework is air leak free...:D

So its time to track down a cheapish bov and get that fitted...to probably the only real place left, that place being the intercooler. :)
 
solarice said:
well if its not one thing its another :D

So im gonna (for now) blame a bad fpr...unless something else pops up and claims responsibility.
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The fact that you have an FSE FPR on the car is not a good start. ebay it and use a proper one, such as a SARD unit if you want one. FSE's wonder all over the place and, as I am sure Ed will fully agree, are simply horrid :( I think he actually refuses to maps cars with them on.
 
Trouble is theres stories of the fse being questionable, but because the net is the way it is...stories can get passed around and 100 complaints could actually only be a handful...so its hard to get a proper answer with proper figures. :)

However ive already switched it out mate...id had it sitting there, so figured id try to use it (car has hardly been driven so pointing the finger at one part was slightly harder). certainly cant afford a sard one, but the one im now using (non fse) seems to be doing the job.

Think Ed only has issues with them because of their rising rate nature, ive been trying to avoid blaming it (as its been being suspected for awhile now tbh)...the replacement one is now also 1:1 and so far so good...but again the car still hasnt really been driven. :)
 
I had one and it wouldn't hold pressure properly, it was set to 3bar on WOT, which dropped to about 2.4bar on idle at first. After a while the car started to exhibit some odd problems, which was traced to the FSE....idle fuel pressure was randomly sitting at between 1.6 and 1.2bar on idle, which caused all sorts of problems. WOT wouldn't hold steady either, so it was chucked.
 
I wont map cars with these type of FSE on them any more. They are far too unreliable.

Take it or leave it, its entirely up to you :)
 
Low Rider & Ed if your talking from experience then thats fine :) its the other forums and posts ive read while tracking down possibles...that seem to either be copies of info from other pages or "my mates mate had one" etc etc. when referring to FSE FPR issues.

The fact my issue quickly resolved once it was removed from the system does seem to speak for itself...so i guess, im saying i agree with you both. :D
 
great car love to see it go. ive got a fse regualtor and its gone wrong it decided to alow loads of pressure then just stop completly. like the smily face on the brake fliud reseivoiur
 
Cheers Jowley, the smiley will probs be being change tbh...depends if i can find something more wierd to have on instead :)
 
The bits i needed are now on the way, so closer to trying out the boost properly. But while ive been waiting ive been designing a cooling slam panel cover.

Not 100% sure if i'll use it yet, but its designed and would help tidy up the engine front / hide all the sc, intercooler etc aswell as help force a little more air through the radiator (though not sure how much cooler it'd run)

Its still in the tweaking stage...though the paper template ive just printed out is looking like it'll pretty much fit. :)

Just depends if i decide to get it cut out.
 

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top moddin!!! hopefully it will help towards the cooling ;) i might pop over some time through the week if you dont mind and have a look??
 
solarice to cool a rad efficently it not the speed of the air passing through it.

If you look at race cars they all have there rads at an angle to slow the air down which creates a higher air pressure which can take more heat away from the rad even though the air speed is lower.
 
if i remember correctly cisco replaced his blocker plate to decrease the pressure in the engine bay and force the incoming air directly through the radiator...

but i never thought micras had a problem with cooling? i cant get mine above 1/4 on the guage, even at donny raggin it for 40 mins it didnt go high.... but when it ran out of water it went off the end so i know it works..lol
 
It'll be similar to the other ones you can buy for other cars, just micraized :)

modded theres a rough cardboard version that ive converted to this digital version which is now also a paper template, a bit roundabout but at least i cant loose a digital version...as the original is mangled from being in the garage.

Robert maybe i should have said to use the current air flow more effectively...instead of forcing more air through :)

a lad tested his for me awhile back and he got a few degrees cooler with his in place vs it removed...so if its something, then its something...

one reason for tinkering with the idea, is my rads at least about a 1/4 covered by intercooler...iirc (cant remeber exactly tbh lol) and so far its not cost me anything.

though i will admit probably the main reason is it may just look good :D
 
Modded it'll look something like the pic below (but imagine aluminium)...very rough mockup as the bends still need working out, but you get the idea. :)
 

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cheers modded and robert. :)

Antony said:
baggsy first order..lol
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lol, ok...im looking at getting it laser cut cos it'll be neater and quicker than trying to cut it by hand, so will be easy enough to get others cut once i know it all lines up correctly. :)

squarepants said:
i want one :D simply because it hides stuff lol.
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im not 100% sure if it will fit yours as it uses the grill for support, and as the bonnet/grill are integral on yours it may not work (unless maybe other supports were made up)...thats a guess though as ive never really looked at the later bonnets.
 
The other bits i needed have arrived and are now fitted...quite funny, as it fits spot on after a little adjustment to the intercooler and looks like id planned it all along lol.

so tomorrow comes the testing (if its dry) and hopefully some good progress will be made. :D
 
Robert Whelan said:
solarice to cool a rad efficently it not the speed of the air passing through it.

If you look at race cars they all have there rads at an angle to slow the air down which creates a higher air pressure which can take more heat away from the rad even though the air speed is lower.
Click to expand...


Partial credit, effeciency is proportional to the pressure difference - you will get increased cooling from sorting out the backside of a rad more so than the front.

Also with race cars you have to bear in miond other considerations such as centre of gravity & the fact that you can have a larger rad if it is at an angle.


Looks nice though...
 
lol...its not driven very much at the moment (30mins or so everytime when testing stuff), so not a big deal...but yeah, they'll be going in shortly :D
 
Damn my signal problems...

Still stuck not mapping, until i can get rid of the rpm signal interference...ive tried all sorts. Ive now pulled out the loom from the dash and its cleaned up some of them, but ONE annoying little spike still remains at split second intervals and its irregular to boot...so ###### knows where its coming from or whats causing it.

Though every spike is virtually double the correct reading...which probably means something lol.

Hopefully i'll figure it out tomorrow...as i really wanna get the car making some boosty noises.
 
solarice said:
Damn my signal problems...

Still stuck not mapping, until i can get rid of the rpm signal interference...ive tried all sorts. Ive now pulled out the loom from the dash and its cleaned up some of them, but ONE annoying little spike still remains at split second intervals and its irregular to boot...so ###### knows where its coming from or whats causing it.

Though every spike is virtually double the correct reading...which probably means something lol.

Hopefully i'll figure it out tomorrow...as i really wanna get the car making some boosty noises.
Click to expand...

is it worth doing a test run with a seperate peice of wire and maybe a ferrite ring? shield it from some external interferance.

maybe it is a loose wire that is bouncing around, if its sitting in the engine bay, then every time the engine rocks a little bit, the wire touches something its not supposed to,
 
the only thing i can think of at the moment is that there a rev rectifers for the signals to correct them to a signal we can us and what you are describing would make me think at the mo that the rectifer is goosed. But i could be completely wrong
 
Nex ive got a couple of ferrite rings on the whole lot now (as far as i can tell theyre doing no good -- will probs try them in another location tomorrow) :) all the wiring connections are in the interior and soldered...ive been through out the engine bay and nothings obviously loose...tbh Nex with the nismo mounts the engine dont move any more :D

the car seems to be running fine in itself (ticking over strong), its just freaking the emanage for a split second...making it think its say 1200 rpm when its 600 rpm.

Rpm signal has been taken from a couple of different soruces (one from Blue/Black tacho line, and from Green/Black wire before the resistor.) Both are the same signal, with the same spike.

Antony and Kenny, tell me about it :D

Robert after reading your post all i can reply with is fwn (meaning, you say what...lol)

For those with the emanage software, you can view the two files included in the Zip file:

Test3 - Wiring was being fiddled with etc but you can see lots and lots of spikes.
Test4 - Was the emanage loom all pulled out into the foot well, clean now but theres still the odd spike.

Dunno if it'll help you's, help me but there you go :)
 

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It hard to say what i'm saying if you understand that.

if you put a olliscope to measure the pulse from a sensor for revs you would notice that there is a lot of crest and troughs.

so what the e.c.u people do is to put a rectifier in which smooths out the troughs and crests to give you a reading which you can use. If this recifier is broke lets say, it will give you these spike reading meaning a new recifier is needed.

does your emanage piggy back onto the organial ecu as i don't deal with things like these just aftermarket e.c.u's for mapping.
 
got ya.

yeah the rpm splices into the normal ecu rpm signal...normally youd take it from the tacho signal, but ive moved it away from the rest of the stock loom incase it was picking up a double signal or something (as the ignition wire runs close to it).

every other signal seems spot on...even the afr ive got the emanage monitoring.

Tbh im still suspecting a leak somewhere...so will be giving it a proper good going over today.
 

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