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Solarice's Project.

solarice said:
Nex ive got a couple of ferrite rings on the whole lot now (as far as i can tell theyre doing no good -- will probs try them in another location tomorrow) :) all the wiring connections are in the interior and soldered...ive been through out the engine bay and nothings obviously loose...tbh Nex with the nismo mounts the engine dont move any more :D
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yea i have never found any good from ferrite rings but worth a try,

the nismo mounts sound awesome ;)

what happens if you disconnect the RPM signal completly? does the engine still idle?

the dizzy has an optical sensor doesn't it? try checking how that is working, if it is clean or something, maybe there is something triggering the photosensor like a flash from a spark in the dizzy. not sure what it could be tho
 
Is there not a rev counter signal out of the ecu that would normally go to the rev counter? if there is cant you use that as surely it will be filtered etc inside the ecu?
 
The nismo ones are indeed awesome lol.

yeah ive had the dizzy cap off all seems A OK, ...and are new parts...i havent checked the optical sensor, but because if i move the loom closer to the other stock looms i get more interference...suggests all spikes are coming from that area.

The car would run fine without the emanage so id reckon the normal ecu is fine aswell.

superls ive already tapped into the tacho wire at ecu and got the same spike...i can only assume any filter would be close to the rev counter and patching in behind the cluster isnt an option as ive got gauges blocking easy access.
 
solarice said:
The nismo ones are indeed awesome lol.

yeah ive had the dizzy cap off all seems A OK, ...and are new parts...i havent checked the optical sensor, but because if i move the loom closer to the other stock looms i get more interference...suggests all spikes are coming from that area.

The car would run fine without the emanage so id reckon the normal ecu is fine aswell.

superls ive already tapped into the tacho wire at ecu and got the same spike...i can only assume any filter would be close to the rev counter and patching in behind the cluster isnt an option as ive got gauges blocking easy access.
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weird, you would have thought that there wouldn't be many issues with electrical interferance in a car loom, i mean its not exactly carrying data or anyhing just pulses. but i suppose it if it interferance then maybe a ground loom isolator? or run a test wire away from everything to see if the spike is still there
 
yeah its annoying...more so when i think ive fixed it and resart the car and after a few seconds a bloody spike appears lol., will be rolling the car out in 2 mins and crawling into the foot well...so hopefully good news later on today.

I might even try wrapping it all in tin foil...if it comes to that :D
 
solarice said:
yeah its annoying...more so when i think ive fixed it and resart the car and after a few seconds a bloody spike appears lol., will be rolling the car out in 2 mins and crawling into the foot well...so hopefully good news later on today.

I might even try wrapping it all in tin foil...if it comes to that :D
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lol i like the tinfoil idea ;)

when i was working for some electronics company, we had this issue where a signal picked up interferance and it was because one of the IC's was getting too much power and over heating.
 
id get some 1 core screened cable and run it right from the dizzy and screen the cable, this should hopefully reduce any induced noise, thats if it is induced?
 
well......5 hours later and its still ####ed.

dont think ive ever been closer to saying sod it and selling everything lol. It doesnt help that i dont like wiring or looking at wiring diagrams.
 
solarice said:
well......5 hours later and its still ####ed.

dont think ive ever been closer to saying sod it and selling everything lol. It doesnt help that i dont like wiring or looking at wiring diagrams.
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it sucks that you are so far away mate, i am not perfect with wiring but i really do like playing about with it.

actually i have nothing better to do for the next few days, i could come over and see if i can lend a hand if you like?
 
Nah its ok Nex...im absolutly miles away anyway. I dont mind wiring when it works, or if it doesnt its because of something obvious...i know its no doubt gonna be a stupid problem, thats why its being so difficult lol.

Included a little snap shot for those without the software to view...the red line with the spikes is the RPM :) (this is when its more stable)
 

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The battle continues, ive ran a seperate wire from the resistor to the back off the emanage incase the normal one was picking up something while it was following the rest of the loom...well its got spikes, so either im being really unlucky and its collecting stuff still (would seem odd for it to be only effecting the rpm) or the issue is somewhere further back which is only the section from the dizzy to the resistor.

Im tempted to run a test wire from the dizzy to the emanage, just to see if it is interference...if its not then i guess it'll be something up with the dizzy??? which would be annoying as its a replacement.

trouble is im running out of straws to hold on to :)
 
I believe its Total Injector Duty, Normal Injector Duty also spikes at the same time...they increase 1% for the split second that rpm signal spikes. But i was putting them down to responding to the spike from rpm.

I guess it could be the other way around...all of these spikes are only visiable in the emanage, nothing obvious is happening to the car itself.

Just tried direct from dizzy and getting same result...i cant see it being a grounding issue, but wondering if its worth shifting the units earth...just incase.

Cos its getting a little bit suspicious...theres a gremlin somewhere and its about i smoked him out properly, instead of trying to poke him with sticks.
 
Dare i say it but i think ive found the problem and yup its looking like signal interference...ive just pulled the emanage and all the loom out and when i hold the emanage up in the cabin, so the loom is straight and away from the main loom virtually all the spikes go away...i managed to get rid of all the spikes in the last test. So just gotta work out where to put it now.

fingers crossed it'll stay clean when its all fastened back in. :)
 
Yup :) just gotta decide if i relocate it or try and make up some kind of EMI shielding...relocating will involve exending some additional wiring aswell making room for it somewhere (spent sometime looking at the car and nothing pops out as a easy alternative site), where as the shielding should let me keep everything as is, providing the shielding does its job.
 
well there is the tinfoil idea ;) also maybe one of the wires has damage to the insulation in the loom, if it got pinched anywhere.

my ECU is behind the glovebox for easy access
 
lol if i thought it would stay together id give it a try :D

havent found any obvious damage to either loom, so i think its just the amount of wiring thats knocking about thats the issue.

where ive go the ecu now, provides easy access for mapping aswell as monitoring and keeps it out of my way...its just a shame its picking up interference....ive been looking at wire mesh bandage as an idea for fighting EMI, but i can see it getting expensive (for what it is).
 
solarice said:
lol if i thought it would stay together id give it a try :D

havent found any obvious damage to either loom, so i think its just the amount of wiring thats knocking about thats the issue.

where ive go the ecu now, provides easy access for mapping aswell as monitoring and keeps it out of my way...its just a shame its picking up interference....ive been looking at wire mesh bandage as an idea for fighting EMI, but i can see it getting expensive (for what it is).
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yea it does seem to be a bit of a joke that you have to go to this effort just for a tacho pulse.

what about twisting the wires together? could the Emanage unit be producing the interferance? maybe its just how close the box is to the loom.
 
Posted about 4:30pm Today:

in a way im happier that its looking like interference cos at least its not my wiring lol.

it's probably just my car as other people whove had one in a micra havent mentioned having this issue, so maybe a factor of things.

Update:

well its now relocated, the loom actually fits quite nicely and its just about as easy to get to...so fingers crossed for tomorrows test. :)
 
earthed tin foil is the best insulation there is (a perfect faraday cage).

I've been reading this thread, racking my brain for a while. I don't have an answer for you. What I will say though, looking at the picture you posted, the interference is not 'natural'. It certainly looks man made.

Have you tried earthing the ecu and ignition directly to the battery. This should at least narrow down the interference to the ignition.
 
you know the bags that mother boards come in.... Mylar pouches..... get some of them and cut them up into strips then cover the wires in that and some aluminium tape from maplins and i personaly guarantee there will be no interference from an external source.
 
Use a ferrite coil or similar on the loom to the EManage, and possibly use some small capacitors to help stop interference on the power lines to the Emanage.
 
yeah lads tried most of those...anyways its looking like it may have been a coincidence when it cleared up, as the "noise" is back :glare:

and i think my car is haunted lol...let me explain...theres a resistor in the passenger footwell (it can be used to feed a tacho and probably sends signals for other things -- cant remember 100% where it goes to) and at the moment fiddling with it (as in pushing it side to side or twisting it...causes the car to rev all by itself :eek: not just as an emanage spike but the actual engine, tacho etc all respond...so theres an electrical fault somewhere but that fault is a new one me lol.

if anyones got any ideas as to why the resistor could be faulty etc im certainly eager to hear them :)
 
as the resistor problem wasnt actually a problem...i spent some time trawling the net and....

whoop, whoop, i found some pages with similar issues for another rpm measuring unit and a possible solution was mentioned that fitting a potentiometer within the system would allow you to adjust the signal to eliminate the rpm spike issues.

So after finding a 50k Potentiometer, I patched into the tacho signal, the emanages rpm signal wire and a ground...and after starting the car and adjusting the dial, my rpms are now suitably stable (they are now the smoothest of the lot lol)...havent test drove it on the street yet, as just as the car was warmed up its decided to start to rain, so the cars now under cover... :(

But its looking like its totally fixed the issue. So for anyone else fitting an emanage (or i guess anything similar) if youre getting bad rpm signals...if after adjusting your wiring position you still have the same problem, try the potentiometer trick...it may just save you some hair. :)

now i can get on with the good bit :D
 
so have you got any tyres on those spanking wheels yet then? if you have show us a piccie of the car with them on, as ive just baught some 7x14" weller wheels and i want to know what they would be like under the arches...hehe
 
nah mate no tyres yet, they are still boxed up :( ...but mine on a zero are about 2/4mm maybe? from being inline with the arches. If that helps.

Just had a drive of the car and its sounding nice NA'd...trouble is the sc control system doesnt seem to be doing what i want it to do (typical lol).

So i think im gonna do it the way i should have done it first time and control it directly from throttle position, cos it'll no doubt be easier in the long run...i hope :D

Soooo just had a quick trip to the scrappies and ive gotten an auto micras acceleration pedal (which has built in microswitches/bracketry), so if i re-route a couple of wires, i can control the sc exactly like the NCVT micra controls its own clutch or i believe in the same way the K10 ST controls its SC. :)

Just gotta decide if i do, do it that way...but at the moment im about 80% sure thats the way im goning.
 
The air wont have anywhere to go at closed throttle (it shifts a fair bit under idle condtions if its turned on), as my setup doesnt recirculate. The way ive got it setup was to only turn on under certain conditions, but coasting upto junctions its keeping turned on and its working a small amount of time against the sc's clutch so im trying to avoid that.

Im experimenting as i go, so i'll hopefully get the best solution for my needs :)

and now all my signals are good, experimenting is all ive got to worry about (Y)
 
well the new accel pedal is in and....it works!! which is nice lol...

havent test drove it yet as ive idled the car nearly out of petrol (3/4 tank of fuel used over the weeks lol), but will get it out tomorrow and see what i can get done. :)

for those interested (if youre thinking of doing the same), the stock pedal microswitches actually operate normally closed, which is opposite to the way you need them to. So i had to switch it out with another one but thats about the only issue and it was easy enough to do.
 
Yeah, just gimme a shout as and when your interested :)

exterior is still looking a mess but the interior is virtually sorted.
 
interior is totally stock (at the moment -- i may or may not remove the rear stuff) but all my gauges, trim panels etc were all over the place...now ive sorted the emanage wiring, its looking more like a car interior again instead of a parts storage :D

exterior is just a bit o sandin and its good for paint...engine wise apart from the mapping its all done...and i need some tyres and the alignment etc sorting.
 
lol god knows :D ...i think its coming up to 3 years...but most of that was because of a funding stall, plus buying loads of extra some what unnecessary but very nice parts lol.
 
oh come on............ im wetting myself waiting for this car to have some propper daylight and some decent pictures / video as all we have seen so far is sneaky quarter pics and garage "squash" shots.....

its like one of those "aston martin reveals blah blah" things at the motor show..




GIVE IT A PHOTO SHOOT!!!!! lol
 
in time lads.......in time :laugh:

dont worry though some vids should be getting made during mapping. Pics wise its quite hard to get proper pics at the moment, they always turn out looking odd (in my opinion, maybe because its currently got a sanded matt finish?)...plus outside shots arent really worth it until its one blinding white colour again. :)

rain is yet again threatening testing for today grr and ive misplaced my black elecy tape :(
 
solarice said:
nah mate no tyres yet, they are still boxed up :( ...but mine on a zero are about 2/4mm maybe? from being inline with the arches. If that helps.

Just had a drive of the car and its sounding nice NA'd...trouble is the sc control system doesnt seem to be doing what i want it to do (typical lol).

So i think im gonna do it the way i should have done it first time and control it directly from throttle position, cos it'll no doubt be easier in the long run...i hope :D

Soooo just had a quick trip to the scrappies and ive gotten an auto micras acceleration pedal (which has built in microswitches/bracketry), so if i re-route a couple of wires, i can control the sc exactly like the NCVT micra controls its own clutch or i believe in the same way the K10 ST controls its SC. :)

Just gotta decide if i do, do it that way...but at the moment im about 80% sure thats the way im goning.
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That's a very neat solution - do you have an atmospheric BOV then?
 
yeah craig ive got one fitted, its just before the intercoolers inlet - probs the coldest part of the engine bay, as its technically in the grill area lol (no pics up though)...so it has to back up virtually all the way to the sc before it activates.

However, because of how im now controlling the sc im not sure how critical it is to have it fitted (depends on its free wheeling abilities i guess).

Will see, i may end up removing it. :)
 
great work mate! glad its finally all coming together now! also cant wait for pics! 3 year project with like 20 pics over a 10 page blog......boooo!!!! lol
 
lol, your all starting to gang up on me :laugh:

...tell you what, lets make this interactive ;) excluding the outside / wide shots (for reasons ive mentioned above) tell me what you's want to see thats on the car...and i'll see if i can get you's some detailed pics.

Seem reasonable?. :)
 
OMFG.... :laugh: -- 5/6 psi = BIG :grinning:

just been out for a test drive, with a rough fuel map (setup to be safe as opposed to accurate) and with everything conected and while its no where near using fuel properly...

the car...well, words are meaningless tbh...put it this way my knees are still shaking :laugh:

It has an exhaust note like ive never heard, and takes it off like a rocket, all this effort has just been made worth while...cant wait to get it all setup properly and see what she does.

oddly my bov doesnt appear to be venting though, as im getting a sound like a grenade launcher between shifts/backing off lol...which im assuming is the air backing up.?

sorry no vids taken though, trust me i think you'll like them when they do appear. :D
 
tell me about it frank lol.

i fear though 1st gear is gonna be useless...while it is possible to drive off boost, the switch as it currently your looking at boost from standing still if you dip the pedal enough (got about 1cm movement from pedals idle position, before the lights on ;)),

so I also dont think it could be driven by anyone else without first giving them a warning (not that im letting anyone touch it lol).

antony just make sure you clean up :D
 

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