i should be able to build something and attend the last crail session of the year, currently working in sydney at the moment and dont get home until late june, work will commence as soon as humanly possible. how exciting.......:laugh:
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Project Turtle the Turquoise Miicra!
- Thread starter Scott
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i should be able to build something and attend the last crail session of the year, currently working in sydney at the moment and dont get home until late june, work will commence as soon as humanly possible. how exciting.......:laugh:
CG will win at crailLOL
no one likes a show off stani haha:grinning:
N/A ALL THE WAY!!!! thats what all the cool kids who cant afford boost shout, or something to that effect!!!
Wait a minute, you are comparing a GA16DE to an SR20DE powered Micra and you recon the GA16DE powered Micra will be quicker.
Eh, good luck with that one!
Trust me, the SR20 will thrash the living poo out of the GA16 powered car and then when you start modifying the engine, forget about it!
The drivetrain weight's are very similar and mod for mod, the SR20 makes way more power / torque.
Better head flow, better rod / stroke ratio, way more tuning potential... SR20 wins hand down!
prove it!
All im saying is....in true mythbuster styleee, have you or anybody else (without bullsh!Ttin,excuse the pun!) ACTUALLY taken one GA16DE of standard origin and one SR20DE of standard origin also and ACTUALLY fitted them to a micra k11 then ACTUALLY raced them down a quarter mile, without saying what you "may" think "may" happen, have you seen it?fwn
sr20 is better? thats quite a statement, and to say thats FACT, well, thats just immature!
spamming stopped, end of. FULL STOP!
Alright then. Hows this.
I bet my n15 can take a win down the quarter against your ga16 micra. Thats how confident i am that a ga16 isnt all its cracked up to be.
You are also being quite ridiculous saying a ga16 and sr20 in a micra are different to a 16 and a 20 in an almera. And given that i am on of the few people in this country to use both engines in the same n15 shell, its fair to say im well educated in the performance difference between a ga and an sr.
You are gonna have to remove an obscene amount of weight from your micra to even come within a second of our ET.
See you on the strip (in my wing mirror)
davey1991
If its not scrubbing, its not low enough.
Mine? or Scotts? Scotts well. and truly deserves to be mines a heap and i'd be surprised if it made it there.
frank
Club Member
the SR with an alloy block is sure to be lighter than the cast iron GA eh, i bet the SR g/box weighs a bit eh scott
and you guys should know what micramike is like by now lol
SR gearbox weighs 3kg more than a GA box
More info :
SR = 38kg
GA = 35kg
Engine weights :
SR = 47kg
GA = 55 kg
SR total = 85kg
GA total = 90kg
Theres not much in it, but still with a higher displacement, better torque, headlfow etc etc as outlined by Dave ^^ The SR20 is a much better engine.
All info taken from Nissan4u
More info :
SR = 38kg
GA = 35kg
Engine weights :
SR = 47kg
GA = 55 kg
SR total = 85kg
GA total = 90kg
Theres not much in it, but still with a higher displacement, better torque, headlfow etc etc as outlined by Dave ^^ The SR20 is a much better engine.
All info taken from Nissan4u
Well no, I haven't done it personally and I doubt anyone else has.
But facts are facts, the SR20 drivetrain is roughly the same as the GA16, if not lighter and makes way more power and torque from stock.
There will only be one outcome on the 1/4 mile and the winner is...
SR20 all the freckin way!!!
you guys should know what micramike is like by now lol
hehe, love a good debate, even if i am wrong, i just cant help myself
but look at all the information that has been divulged in the process, and ive managed to hold onto my title as a complete ars3hol3, its win win!:laugh::laugh::laugh:
i would also like to take this opportunity to apologise to any micra "fanatics" that were harmed in the making of this debate, my deepest apologies are flying through cyberspace right now in the form of a big smooch, keep up the good work lads, and Mr Bull your a legend in micra geeks eyes of past present and future, extra big kiss for you
Mr Bull your a legend in micra geeks eyes of past present and future, extra big kiss for you
Thanks bud, wanna come round to mine and get funky?
So today we played about with the Corsa coilovers.
After initial fitting, we realised that the actual coilover was knocking. when under load.
So out it came to be stripped down. Once stripped down, the helper spring on the bottom was removed, and the coilover wound up as high as it would go... which is still pretty low...
In order to space out the top mount, washers are required. But since we didnt have any...
A quick ghetto fix until we can get some washers.
All put back together and fitted onto the car. O.M.G it is so stiff. Standing on top of the chassis rail and jumping up and down, the car just wont move. And after some calculations working out at 18kg springs, I now see why.
So coilover put on and wheel tightened, car lowered means ;
As you can see there is very little clearence between the top of the wheel and the bottom of the chassis rail. May need arches rolled once the wings are on.
Also with the 15 inch wheels and fat tyres, the wheels are colliding with the inner arch. So hopefully when our current plans of modifying N15 and K11 hubs it will sit further out and clearance shouldnt be an issue anymore. Possibly some 20 or 25mm spacers aswell.
So thats one side done, will finish the other side tomorrow.
After initial fitting, we realised that the actual coilover was knocking. when under load.
So out it came to be stripped down. Once stripped down, the helper spring on the bottom was removed, and the coilover wound up as high as it would go... which is still pretty low...
In order to space out the top mount, washers are required. But since we didnt have any...
A quick ghetto fix until we can get some washers.
All put back together and fitted onto the car. O.M.G it is so stiff. Standing on top of the chassis rail and jumping up and down, the car just wont move. And after some calculations working out at 18kg springs, I now see why.
So coilover put on and wheel tightened, car lowered means ;
As you can see there is very little clearence between the top of the wheel and the bottom of the chassis rail. May need arches rolled once the wings are on.
Also with the 15 inch wheels and fat tyres, the wheels are colliding with the inner arch. So hopefully when our current plans of modifying N15 and K11 hubs it will sit further out and clearance shouldnt be an issue anymore. Possibly some 20 or 25mm spacers aswell.
So thats one side done, will finish the other side tomorrow.
In some areas the rust is being cut out and new metal welded in place. But thats only if its a strucutral damaged part of the chassis. Such as the floorpan, arches, chassis rails. Mainly the stuff that it could fail its MOT on.
But in some areas it is just surface rust, so that is just ground back and filled and painted.
For your sunroof, it all depends on how bad the rust is as to how much work is needed to rectify it. Best thing to do is grind it back and assess if the metal is still strong or grown weak. If its weak/has holes in it then it would be best to have some new metal welded in.
If its just surface rust then, grind back with a flapwheel disk on a grinder, and treat it with some kurust gel thative used on our rust further back in the blog. Let that work its stuff for an hour or 2, wipe off then apply some filler to the area, sand it back, primer and paint.
But in some areas it is just surface rust, so that is just ground back and filled and painted.
For your sunroof, it all depends on how bad the rust is as to how much work is needed to rectify it. Best thing to do is grind it back and assess if the metal is still strong or grown weak. If its weak/has holes in it then it would be best to have some new metal welded in.
If its just surface rust then, grind back with a flapwheel disk on a grinder, and treat it with some kurust gel thative used on our rust further back in the blog. Let that work its stuff for an hour or 2, wipe off then apply some filler to the area, sand it back, primer and paint.
baguete
Site Supporter
Maybe doing a cabriolet??
I will get some plastic stuff to cover the car (its still raining here), remove the spot welds and roof, remove all the rust and applying some rust converter. Then i will try to figure it out...
Sorry for the off-topic mate. :wasntme:
baguete
Site Supporter
Thanks for the tips mate. (Y)
Seems that now i know what to do:
- Take all the damaged metal panels
- Remove all the rust with a drill, wheel disc, sanding paper, etc...
- Use some phosphoric acid to clean the surface rust
- Install new metal panels
- Apply some self etching primer filler and leave it to dry for 24h
- Sand the entire car
- Apply normal primer to entire car
- Apply paint (epoxi base, for extra strength and there is no need for using lacquer)
- Apply Waxoyl on all cavities of the car
- Done (and enjoy the car)
What to you think about it?
Seems that now i know what to do:
- Take all the damaged metal panels
- Remove all the rust with a drill, wheel disc, sanding paper, etc...
- Use some phosphoric acid to clean the surface rust
- Install new metal panels
- Apply some self etching primer filler and leave it to dry for 24h
- Sand the entire car
- Apply normal primer to entire car
- Apply paint (epoxi base, for extra strength and there is no need for using lacquer)
- Apply Waxoyl on all cavities of the car
- Done (and enjoy the car
)What to you think about it?
Thanks for the tips mate. (Y)
Seems that now i know what to do:
- Take all the damaged metal panels
- Remove all the rust with a drill, wheel disc, sanding paper, etc...
- Use some phosphoric acid to clean the surface rust
- Install new metal panels
- Apply some self etching primer filler and leave it to dry for 24h
- Sand the entire car
- Apply normal primer to entire car
- Apply paint (epoxi base, for extra strength and there is no need for using lacquer)
- Apply Waxoyl on all cavities of the car
- Done (and enjoy the car
What to you think about it?
Sounds good Baguete.
How did it get so bad though?!? I didnt think it rained in Portugal
So todays first task of many was to remove the hubs so they can be sent off for machining, making a hybrid hub from N15 and K11 hubs.
Hubs unbolted from strut, Brake lines removed, Track rod cut out ( it was nackered anyway), hub unbolted from the wishbone and hub removed.
Although because of the thread on the ball joint wrecking itself, we are now in need of a new wishbone aswell as a new track rod end. Not that expensive, but cash is tight.
Close up of the removed hub ;
Close up of coilover ;
We are probably going to re introduce the helper spring as its just way too stiff.
Anyway with regards to the hubs, what we plan to do is ;
Have the N15 inner bearing with driveshaft splines machined and pressed in place of the current K11 one.
And also the SR20 driveshafts being shaved down a bit on the diameter to fit into the space in the K11 hub. No pics but a special thanks to Cov for helping with this.
So with that done, moving onto the next task of bodywork. I continued sanding down the rear arch full of filler and ross continued sanding down the drivers door.
And anti rust primer on the wing mirror area ;
Bumpstrip removed ;
Then out came the compressor and paint,
Yes its only the door been painted for now but the car will eventually all be in this colour. Nissan BS7 Blue. We had a lot of paint left over from previous work.
With that done, time to drop the engine again. Fuel lines disconnected, wiring pushed through the bulkhead. Engine loom disconnected from interior loom. And Engine hoisted out.
So with that done we now need to purchase a driver side wishbone and track rod end. Anyone got one spare? Lol
And incase any of you wanted to know what we use an engine hoist ;
Structural beam of the building ;
And a lifting chain connecting to this steel beam via a heavy duty lifting strap and another connected to the engine,
That’s all for now.
Hubs unbolted from strut, Brake lines removed, Track rod cut out ( it was nackered anyway), hub unbolted from the wishbone and hub removed.
Although because of the thread on the ball joint wrecking itself, we are now in need of a new wishbone aswell as a new track rod end. Not that expensive, but cash is tight.
Close up of the removed hub ;
Close up of coilover ;
We are probably going to re introduce the helper spring as its just way too stiff.
Anyway with regards to the hubs, what we plan to do is ;
Have the N15 inner bearing with driveshaft splines machined and pressed in place of the current K11 one.
And also the SR20 driveshafts being shaved down a bit on the diameter to fit into the space in the K11 hub. No pics but a special thanks to Cov for helping with this.
So with that done, moving onto the next task of bodywork. I continued sanding down the rear arch full of filler and ross continued sanding down the drivers door.
And anti rust primer on the wing mirror area ;
Bumpstrip removed ;
Then out came the compressor and paint,
Yes its only the door been painted for now but the car will eventually all be in this colour. Nissan BS7 Blue. We had a lot of paint left over from previous work.
With that done, time to drop the engine again. Fuel lines disconnected, wiring pushed through the bulkhead. Engine loom disconnected from interior loom. And Engine hoisted out.
So with that done we now need to purchase a driver side wishbone and track rod end. Anyone got one spare? Lol
And incase any of you wanted to know what we use an engine hoist ;
Structural beam of the building ;
And a lifting chain connecting to this steel beam via a heavy duty lifting strap and another connected to the engine,
That’s all for now.
baguete
Site Supporter
Sounds good Baguete.
How did it get so bad though?!? I didnt think it rained in Portugal
Yes, it rains in Portugal, but no snow here (only on Serra da Estrela, the highest point), but i think the car was near a beach with the left side always pointing to the sea, its all corroded on that side, right side is fine.
Today i stripped the whole car and it seems even worse on the floor, i must think if it worths to repair it or just use all the parts on another car that has no options (this one has A/C, PAS, Central Locking, Electric Windows, etc...).
Back on topic, nice progress over there, really want to see how it will be in some months. (Y)
I have now been informed that the unit we are using is to be undergoing renovation.
So we now have 6 weeks to have this finished and driveable otherwise to ze scrapyard she goes.
If anyone happens to have a spare brand new front panel and a brand new track rod end then PLEASE drop me or RR_dev a PM.
Cheers
So we now have 6 weeks to have this finished and driveable otherwise to ze scrapyard she goes.
If anyone happens to have a spare brand new front panel and a brand new track rod end then PLEASE drop me or RR_dev a PM.
Cheers
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