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Project March ANK11 4x4 GTiR

Well, I know it's been a long time without progress. But I hope I can get a little bit more done from now on..
Had a engine that blow in my girlfriends daily drive car. But I didn't want to change engine, so I sold it to a guy that had a SR20VE
but no car to out it in. And I bought a '92 K11 with under 100.000km on the speedo. ;)

Today me, and my friend tried rolling our wheel arches..
Befare:
2011.09.03_valsing1.jpg


After: (Not easy to see, because of the different angel, but I got about 15mm extra)
2011.09.03_valsing3.jpg


2011.09.03_valsing2.jpg


2011.09.03_valsing4.jpg



Then I borrowed one of my friends rim.. K11 Dragster!
2011.09.03_k11dragster.jpg


While my friend was rolling his S14A, I had to cut some metal to get closer to fitting the SR20 in my K11.:
2011.09.03_girkassetunnel1.jpg


2011.09.03_girkassetunnel2.jpg


2011.09.03_girkassetunnel3.jpg


2011.09.03_girkassetunnel4.jpg
 
i still don't understand why the engine had to be so far over? if the take off was hitting the tunnel, and the drivers side was hitting the chassis why didn't you move the engine over to the other side? surely its easier to cut the chassis for the belts etc?
 
The engine pulleys are only 3mm from the enginebay passenger side, so the engine has to be where is was.
Only way to get the engine more agains the passengerside is to remove the pulleys to the waterpump, and replace the pump
with an electric one, and find another place for the dynamo, then I can take off 15mm on the pulley side on the engine, but that isn't a good solution.

The gearbox was hitting the top of the tunnel and the steeringrack. With the GTiR tunnel I'll get more space, and the steeringrack 50mm higher.
And I also get the rear gearbox mount with this piece of the GTiR tunnel. The problem is the HUGE gearbox on the GTiR SR20DET ..

I was also wondering about welding the GTiR front from the firewall on to the March, but then I 'll had to make some serious
custom work on making the March hood and sides about 20cm longer.. =/ And it wouldn't look normal anymore.
 
nik0lai said:
The engine pulleys are only 3mm from the enginebay passenger side, so the engine has to be where is was.
Only way to get the engine more agains the passengerside is to remove the pulleys to the waterpump, and replace the pump
with an electric one, and find another place for the dynamo, then I can take off 15mm on the pulley side on the engine, but that isn't a good solution.

The gearbox was hitting the top of the tunnel and the steeringrack. With the GTiR tunnel I'll get more space, and the steeringrack 50mm higher.
And I also get the rear gearbox mount with this piece of the GTiR tunnel. The problem is the HUGE gearbox on the GTiR SR20DET ..

I was also wondering about welding the GTiR front from the firewall on to the March, but then I 'll had to make some serious
custom work on making the March hood and sides about 20cm longer.. =/ And it wouldn't look normal anymore.
Click to expand...

interesting, so the steering rack is higher on the GTiR to make room for the gearbox then?
as for the pulleys on the passenger side you cold always cut the chassis out completely and build a new one out of tubes that goes under or over the engine.

is the steering collum still going to work if the steering rack is higher? or will you have to use the GTiR one?

i think it MIGHT be possible to fit the whole GTiR front on, and then trim the edges back so it was the same size as the micra. for example you don't need the front support for the headlights etc, because that doesn't hold the engine in, so you just swap over the big bits for the engine and then make new mounts for the micra body panels.

but never mind, its all ideas, i think the way you are doing it is probably the easiest way, it will be great to see how it works out!
 
Stani1029 said:
You will get there in the end nikolai, sound like your doing it properly so thats always good :)
Click to expand...
THANKS!

NeX said:
interesting, so the steering rack is higher on the GTiR to make room for the gearbox then?
as for the pulleys on the passenger side you cold always cut the chassis out completely and build a new one out of tubes that goes under or over the engine.

is the steering collum still going to work if the steering rack is higher? or will you have to use the GTiR one?

i think it MIGHT be possible to fit the whole GTiR front on, and then trim the edges back so it was the same size as the micra. for example you don't need the front support for the headlights etc, because that doesn't hold the engine in, so you just swap over the big bits for the engine and then make new mounts for the micra body panels.

but never mind, its all ideas, i think the way you are doing it is probably the easiest way, it will be great to see how it works out!
Click to expand...

Yes the steeringrack mounts is higher on the the GTiR. And the steering collum is still going to work.. ;)

I know that everything is possible, but I can't do front convertions welding my self,
so then I need to pay someone to do it. That's money I don't want to use.
I'm trying to save up some money for a new familycar..
I realy want a 4 door Infiniti G35:
DSC_0895.jpg
 
thats a nice car!

and of course, keeping the car realistic and not taking on a task you know you cant finish, will ensure the car will eventually get done which is great. but its interesting to think about all the different ways that problem could be fixed
 
The car is in place, and ready for some action:
2011.09.08_bukk1.jpg


2011.09.08_bukk2.jpg



Tunnel is cutted, and are almost ready for welding,
I just need some hammering on it first, so it will fit..:
2011.09.08_motorrom1.jpg


And I need some hammering here as well before welding it together:
2011.09.08_motorrom4.jpg


And then, 2. problem, was the lack of space for the gearbox:
2011.09.08_motorrom2.jpg


2011.09.08_motorrom3.jpg



So long!
 
I was planning on doing much on the car today, because I thought I had the hole day all by my self..
But that wasn't what my GF had planed. 10.15 this morning a friend came and "highjacked" me and drove me
all the way to "Skien". 2h 30min drive from us, to a airport called "Geiteryggen", where my GF had booked a
skydive for me. My best 25th birthdaypresent ever..! A little late tho, my birthdays was june 27th. Still awsome!

GOPR0716.JPG
 
Life must go on..:
2011.09.14_sveising1.jpg

I know that I'm not a very good welder, but after some more work, I thinks it would be ok.

2011.09.14_sveising2.jpg

Here I need some more hammering and cutting and some new pieces before this fits ok..
 
wow awesome! skydiving! are you inspired to go again?

great job with the car, that bite into the chassis doesn't look too bad, and there is still loads of space inside the cabin, i was expecting you to have to modify the dash and everything but it looks pretty good.
 
NeX: hell yes, I was ready to take the next plane up right after I landed.. But it's expensive. Hopefully I get to to it again..
 
nik0lai said:
NeX: hell yes, I was ready to take the next plane up right after I landed.. But it's expensive. Hopefully I get to to it again..
Click to expand...

my friend was going for his skydiving license, i don't think it cost that much for the license and then you are on your own and dont have to pay for the instructors time as well. that can make it a bit cheaper. also if you join a club then they can organise a plane and split the cost by all the people going. but its a hobby like owning a car, it can eat all your money, so maybe its cheaper to just go now and again
 
nik0lai said:
Off course, I also need a hole for the wiring loom, speed-wire and the heater..
Click to expand...

wiring loom goes down the outside of the wing doesn't it?

is that a big chunk missing from the wishbone mount too?

does it actually fit? as in bolt in and all the drive shafts line up etc?
 
Just read through all of the progress so far, this looks to have been a massive amount of work and will be an absolute hoot to drive when it's finished!

Keep up the good work (Y)
 
NeX said:
wiring loom goes down the outside of the wing doesn't it?

is that a big chunk missing from the wishbone mount too?

does it actually fit? as in bolt in and all the drive shafts line up etc?
Click to expand...
The engine wiringsloom goes trough the firewall right where the ECU is almost.
Yes, I had to cut the wishbonemount a bit. So I'll have to get this strengthen somehow. Probably get that done in the start of next week by a friend that knows
what he's doing. Not a amateur like me. :p

Well, It fits, but it's a tight fit.. And as long as I can see, the gearbox lines up with
rear subframe, and I THINK it lines up with the front aswell. But I havent welded in
the enginemounts yet, I have to check some times more before I'm shure.
But is so tight that I think I need al enginemounts in hard poly, og alu to make shure that the engine won't hit the chassis. =/

JasperFoxx said:
Just read through all of the progress so far, this looks to have been a massive amount of work and will be an absolute hoot to drive when it's finished!

Keep up the good work (Y)
Click to expand...
Thanks! I can't wait to get to drive this. I was hoping to test is this winter on a icetrack we make every winter on a lake my girlfriends family owns..
 
it sounds close, and agreed you will need some stiff bushes, the engine will travel about 10-15mm on very hard corners on the standard bushes,

if you can weld then i think you could fix up that wishbone mount, just weld a 2mm plate over the cut area should be enough
 
I can weld, but I'll get a friend that have "licens" and works with welding everyday to weld the important things.
So I'll leave the wishbone-mount to him ..

10-15mm realy?! I can't afford more than 5-8mm .. So I'll have to get some hard bushes..
 
nik0lai said:
I can weld, but I'll get a friend that have "licens" and works with welding everyday to weld the important things.
So I'll leave the wishbone-mount to him ..

10-15mm realy?! I can't afford more than 5-8mm .. So I'll have to get some hard bushes..
Click to expand...

yea i had a 1.6 engine in my car with 10mm of clearance and it would hit the side of the car on a hard turn, you might be able to use some torque dampeners on the engine to hold it still, but its going to be loud, the more fixed the engine is, the more the noise travels through the chassis.

i would really recommend if you can, try and get some more space in the engine bay, trim some metal back and have it welded up properly, if you want to race this, you will go round a few corners and your engine will grind off its pullies etc,

but yea hopefully some polyurethane bushes should help a lot.
 
with my cg engine in my k10 i had about 7-8mm clearence between the altenator pully and the chassis leg and i only hit a couple of times and that was on hard braking into tight corner.
 
take the mounts out.... cut out as much rubber as you can without removing the steel insert and fill the holes up with epoxy resin and put some fibreglass matting in there for strength.

or, make them out of solid metal like drag cars do...:wasntme:
 
superls said:
with my cg engine in my k10 i had about 7-8mm clearence between the altenator pully and the chassis leg and i only hit a couple of times and that was on hard braking into tight corner.
Click to expand...

thats the thing tho, this is going to be a track car so it will do a lot of hard cornering and braking etc, and it might damage things
 
That's the plan, poly or alu bushings.. Yesterday I welded the rest of the enginebay and tunnel,
so now it's ready for some painting .. And then I hopefully can mount my SR20 for the "last" time, for now atleast.

I've got some help form my friend as well when I promised him a trackday in the is ths winter if I get it up and running. :p
 
Sorry. There havn't been done anything more on it. I'm waiting for some parts, and more money. :p

And I've started to fix my boat, I'm going to remove and build new, almost half of the interior..
So I'm going to spend much time and money there this winter..
 
Today I orderd a new steeringrack for lhd without servo. Hopefully I'll get it on friday, or saturday.
So then, when I have mounted a it, I can put in the engine, and weld the enginemounts.
 
is there any way you can open up the holes for the steering rack? i am just thinking that when you have the engine in there, the car is going to sit lower and it might bend the steering arms.
 
Seriously nex leave the guy too it, you only seem to be telling him what to do and what would be better im sure if there are any problems he will get past them. From what i know in the club nobody has done this so theres no right/wrong way to do it. Any mistakes nikolai will learn from im sure. When he asks for help then make a suggestion?

And if thats no good then you do the same project and let people tell you how to do it
 
fair enough, no insult intended, and this is a little out of context as its following on from a comment on facebook about the arms being very close.
 
NeX said:
is there any way you can open up the holes for the steering rack? i am just thinking that when you have the engine in there, the car is going to sit lower and it might bend the steering arms.
Click to expand...
Well, there is always a way. But I'm hope I don't need to do that.
I can adjust the coilovers if I need.. Or I can mount the steering-arms up side down
in the hubs by drilling up the hole, and make a new bushing to make the cone
in the bolt-hole in the hubs go the other way ..

Stani1029 said:
Seriously nex leave the guy too it, you only seem to be telling him what to do and what would be better im sure if there are any problems he will get past them. From what i know in the club nobody has done this so theres no right/wrong way to do it. Any mistakes nikolai will learn from im sure. When he asks for help then make a suggestion?

And if thats no good then you do the same project and let people tell you how to do it
Click to expand...
Well, thanks for "defending" me. But I've had some conversations with Ralph/Nex on facebook, and he has given me a lot of tips and ideas..

NeX said:
fair enough, no insult intended, and this is a little out of context as its following on from a comment on facebook about the arms being very close.
Click to expand...
Don't worry. I like some inputs and ideas.. ;) And it keeps my thread active aswell..
And it keeps my garage-working-spirit up ..
 

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