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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
Last edited:
sleeper_ss
Ex. Club Member
you keep yourself busy!
Very interesting read & a nice looking car,thanks for sharing.
Will be checking my aeriel drain pipe...
Very interesting read & a nice looking car,thanks for sharing.
Will be checking my aeriel drain pipe...
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
cheers shaun, collision & sleeper
dremeled off the bolt obstructing the motor
bolted the motor to the frame but had to trim abit off the top cover to clear the nut
was looking around to see where i could install the switch. thought about either the driverside door or on a centre console blanking plate next to the hazards switch but both require alota dremellingn work and i don't have a milling dremel head with me and shops closed. couldn't be bothered tbh but found a good place and just superglued the switch to the flat bottom edge of the motor casing
does the job, secure and its where i ideally wanted it
routed the 12v wire down the a-pillar
past the glovebox
and down to my cig lighter extension
installed
this is the "couldn't be bothered" rough working installation 1, and prob connect it up properly over weekend but it works for now.
the motor controller is a nifty thing. every time ign is switched on to power the sunroof it only allows you to move the sunroof slider forward hence tilt. when it reaches the end of the slider and stops, the circuit senses that the motor shaft has stopped, rewinds 1 turn, cuts power and now its reset and knows that its at the far end of the slider and where it should stop. clever system.
dremeled off the bolt obstructing the motor
bolted the motor to the frame but had to trim abit off the top cover to clear the nut
was looking around to see where i could install the switch. thought about either the driverside door or on a centre console blanking plate next to the hazards switch but both require alota dremellingn work and i don't have a milling dremel head with me and shops closed. couldn't be bothered tbh but found a good place and just superglued the switch to the flat bottom edge of the motor casing
does the job, secure and its where i ideally wanted it
routed the 12v wire down the a-pillar
past the glovebox
and down to my cig lighter extension
installed
this is the "couldn't be bothered" rough working installation 1, and prob connect it up properly over weekend but it works for now.
the motor controller is a nifty thing. every time ign is switched on to power the sunroof it only allows you to move the sunroof slider forward hence tilt. when it reaches the end of the slider and stops, the circuit senses that the motor shaft has stopped, rewinds 1 turn, cuts power and now its reset and knows that its at the far end of the slider and where it should stop. clever system.
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OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
wirebrushed n painted the rusty rear handgrip bracket
was such a glorious day tday. cleaned the alloys with brake cleaner & cloth but specks of brake dust have glued to the alloys
using brake cleaner with a scotchpad fixed that
both wheels cleaned
polished
the sunroof motor seems to be rattling against the frame so i grinded the studs further
ducktaped the motor to cusion it
bolted up
i'm too tired from all that wheel polishing and sunny heat. gona finish the rear wheels tomorrow
was such a glorious day tday. cleaned the alloys with brake cleaner & cloth but specks of brake dust have glued to the alloys
using brake cleaner with a scotchpad fixed that
both wheels cleaned
polished
the sunroof motor seems to be rattling against the frame so i grinded the studs further
ducktaped the motor to cusion it
bolted up
i'm too tired from all that wheel polishing and sunny heat. gona finish the rear wheels tomorrow
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OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
cleaned n polished the rear wheels
front crossmember appears abit rusty so took off bumper for closer look
abit of surface rust. this rust treatment solution obviously doesn't work
oh ohh the left side already developing a weak hole
wirebrushed
undercoated whole crossmember. hopefully it'll work better in slowing down the rust
front crossmember appears abit rusty so took off bumper for closer look
abit of surface rust. this rust treatment solution obviously doesn't work
oh ohh the left side already developing a weak hole
wirebrushed
undercoated whole crossmember. hopefully it'll work better in slowing down the rust
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well, that is a pimp mobile there lol. well done!
lol. well done!
Shaun
***StaGGeRed***
on the car?lol desty i wish. i have a usb rocket launcher though
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
decided to replace the gear linkage on weekend cos i felt the polyurethane bushes were abit worn slack. so went to a scrappy in redcar, saw the guy move afew cars outa the way with forklift truck to lift the facelift micra out the back. removed the gearlinkage and got it for £15, bargain
joint feels in good condition
grinded the rivet off the pivot shaft
and knocked the shaft out to separate the joint from linkage
line up of the new parts on top against the old parts below
fitted the ball bearings into the new joints, feels much tighter fit now. bolted all up and gear shifts are much more precise n solid
the front badge that i stuck with foam tape fell off when i washed the car. looks abit tatty cos the black lettering has aged off
sanded the back flat to remove residue. appears the plastic badge is copper plated then chrome plated
masked then cut out the lettering
didn't have any black paint around the house. tried underbody paint but didn't work. red hammerite spray paint was way too watery. so i tried PU sealant smeared over
works a treat
positioned and bonded on permanently with pu sealant
good as new
joint feels in good condition
grinded the rivet off the pivot shaft
and knocked the shaft out to separate the joint from linkage
line up of the new parts on top against the old parts below
fitted the ball bearings into the new joints, feels much tighter fit now. bolted all up and gear shifts are much more precise n solid
the front badge that i stuck with foam tape fell off when i washed the car. looks abit tatty cos the black lettering has aged off
sanded the back flat to remove residue. appears the plastic badge is copper plated then chrome plated
masked then cut out the lettering
didn't have any black paint around the house. tried underbody paint but didn't work. red hammerite spray paint was way too watery. so i tried PU sealant smeared over
works a treat
positioned and bonded on permanently with pu sealant
good as new
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OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
hey everyone.
just got back from me 2week drive all round the UK. well exhausted, neck & arm muscles aching, just needed a nap but had an awsome trip.
week 1 started off from the north east, heading up the east coast towards fraserburgh
then headed west past inverness towards the west coastlines where there are some awsome roads and scenery like the a838. all the upgrades just made sense and was such a thrill to drive through
stayed somewhere near loch laxford
mom spotted a lovely waterfall as we passed some bridge
lovely winding fast roads going down towards glasgow
after driving through the rain the car was filthy
good wash with a wet rag
went down past the lakes, into north wales then cut across towards nottingham where i stop by to meetup with v12 and drop off some hub caps he needed. he also gave me a spare tyre pen cos i though bout painting the toyo letters. thx v12 and nice to meet ya
headed back home cos next day i would be driving this!
weather was getting abit casted over and really chilly as i waited. helmet on, the inner padding kept squeezing my glasses up so had to constantly readjust.
got in, sat soo low. the pedals n wheel were too far but there was no adjustment at all so i had to kinda slouch forward in the seat, i felt like a small kid trying to reach the controls on a big adult go-kart.
i opted for the onboard capture feature but initially had problems gettin it workin, tech guy fixed the loose power cable.
off we go and first off the gear selector range was so close n notchy feeling i couldn't figure if i was in the right gear most the time and was a real distraction and let down between corners.
clutch was real grippy, prob a paddle-type, so setting off and changing gear was embarrasingly rocky at best, i felt like a learner, twas ok at higher speeds.
the civic engine had a heavy flywheel so response was abit slugglish, didn't help my heel'toe so scrapped that technique.
steering was chunky n heavy like a go-kart but wonders about alot at high speeds so had to grip it steady hard.
brakes felt very hard/cold and unassisted, preferred more bite tbh
besides all these little niggles, when i floored it down the straights the supercharger whines away hard and whahey it blasts away at eye watering speeds. tis a rocket. slowly getting better at the controls and building confidence/speed but 5laps quickly went n gone.
anyway session over, i drove back home in my car and ooh it feels so much better to drive in terms of clutch feel, throttle response, handling, grip, etc. think i'll stick to my own micra atom for now
getting ready for week 2, i cleaned the car and decided to use the tyre pen that v12 gave me. washed wheel
learnt a new skill on how to paint each letter utilising the raised lettering lip as an edge guide
pretty good. looks real sporty
set off towards west of wales. stayed at such a lovely country b&b. front left tyre paint rubbed off abit so retouched it with the pen.
went down to south west of wales where i spotted a nice place for a photoshoot
this is my fav photo
finished off going to cornwall, chichester then met R-reg-sr in london, lovely lad. been a pleasure chattin to ya for ages. but unfortunately while we were chattin in mac/d, i left the cars ignition & radio on to prevent the alarm self arming cos mom was in the car. after a long chat and checking our cars, Reg set off and when i started my car it didn't have enough juice cos i left ignition on for 2hrs+ which drained all the power, DOHHHH
i quickly ran towards Reg before he reached the exit for a jumpstart, thankgod another car held him up for a sec. at first his jumplead didn't seem to work, maybe a loose lead. so i tried mine and Yes it's alive, cheers Reg.
finally made it back home that night
just got back from me 2week drive all round the UK. well exhausted, neck & arm muscles aching, just needed a nap but had an awsome trip.
week 1 started off from the north east, heading up the east coast towards fraserburgh
then headed west past inverness towards the west coastlines where there are some awsome roads and scenery like the a838. all the upgrades just made sense and was such a thrill to drive through
stayed somewhere near loch laxford
mom spotted a lovely waterfall as we passed some bridge
lovely winding fast roads going down towards glasgow
after driving through the rain the car was filthy
good wash with a wet rag
went down past the lakes, into north wales then cut across towards nottingham where i stop by to meetup with v12 and drop off some hub caps he needed. he also gave me a spare tyre pen cos i though bout painting the toyo letters. thx v12 and nice to meet ya
headed back home cos next day i would be driving this!
weather was getting abit casted over and really chilly as i waited. helmet on, the inner padding kept squeezing my glasses up so had to constantly readjust.
got in, sat soo low. the pedals n wheel were too far but there was no adjustment at all so i had to kinda slouch forward in the seat, i felt like a small kid trying to reach the controls on a big adult go-kart.
i opted for the onboard capture feature but initially had problems gettin it workin, tech guy fixed the loose power cable.
off we go and first off the gear selector range was so close n notchy feeling i couldn't figure if i was in the right gear most the time and was a real distraction and let down between corners.
clutch was real grippy, prob a paddle-type, so setting off and changing gear was embarrasingly rocky at best, i felt like a learner, twas ok at higher speeds.
the civic engine had a heavy flywheel so response was abit slugglish, didn't help my heel'toe so scrapped that technique.
steering was chunky n heavy like a go-kart but wonders about alot at high speeds so had to grip it steady hard.
brakes felt very hard/cold and unassisted, preferred more bite tbh
besides all these little niggles, when i floored it down the straights the supercharger whines away hard and whahey it blasts away at eye watering speeds. tis a rocket. slowly getting better at the controls and building confidence/speed but 5laps quickly went n gone.
anyway session over, i drove back home in my car and ooh it feels so much better to drive in terms of clutch feel, throttle response, handling, grip, etc. think i'll stick to my own micra atom for now
getting ready for week 2, i cleaned the car and decided to use the tyre pen that v12 gave me. washed wheel
learnt a new skill on how to paint each letter utilising the raised lettering lip as an edge guide
pretty good. looks real sporty
set off towards west of wales. stayed at such a lovely country b&b. front left tyre paint rubbed off abit so retouched it with the pen.
went down to south west of wales where i spotted a nice place for a photoshoot
this is my fav photo
finished off going to cornwall, chichester then met R-reg-sr in london, lovely lad. been a pleasure chattin to ya for ages. but unfortunately while we were chattin in mac/d, i left the cars ignition & radio on to prevent the alarm self arming cos mom was in the car. after a long chat and checking our cars, Reg set off and when i started my car it didn't have enough juice cos i left ignition on for 2hrs+ which drained all the power, DOHHHH
i quickly ran towards Reg before he reached the exit for a jumpstart, thankgod another car held him up for a sec. at first his jumplead didn't seem to work, maybe a loose lead. so i tried mine and Yes it's alive, cheers Reg.
finally made it back home that night
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these rd trips are a bit of an adventure sound addictive might try one
i was very pleased to meet you and mom and the micra
and it seemed like twenty minutes we were talking but was actualy 2 hrs
liked the car with wats done to it the manifold-gear linkeage bearing mod-elecsunroof-wheels discs the flywheel!!!
we talked about wat it takes to make it worthwhile remaping a un turbed 1275
and you exposed my weak jumper leads
i topped my oil yesterday forgot to put the oil cap back on and ended up with an engine bay rust proof job that i didnt need (not that way anyway)
didnt help me doing motorway speeds engine bay properly flooded now with oil cars still runin though.
thanks again for the visit!
i was very pleased to meet you and mom and the micra
and it seemed like twenty minutes we were talking but was actualy 2 hrs
liked the car with wats done to it the manifold-gear linkeage bearing mod-elecsunroof-wheels discs the flywheel!!!
we talked about wat it takes to make it worthwhile remaping a un turbed 1275
and you exposed my weak jumper leads
i topped my oil yesterday forgot to put the oil cap back on and ended up with an engine bay rust proof job that i didnt need (not that way anyway)
didnt help me doing motorway speeds engine bay properly flooded now with oil cars still runin though.
thanks again for the visit!
Any tips on cleaning that BTW? I think I overfilled my oil a while back and it must have overflowed from some vent (probably built to protect the car from thickheads like me doing exactly that
) so the block on the alternator side is gunked up and looks a bit minging!
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
yep makes a grand difference to the sporty looks. they tend to crack once dry so gonna have to touch em up again.
first time i used the pen and pressing the ink in/out the tip it spewed abit down the sidewall, yikes, but thank god errors could be cleaned with brake cleaner
Bit of a dredge up from the past, just wondering if you noticed any differences in the robustness of the clutch pedal assemblies polly? We have the Helix racing clutch in the car and the standard pedal is slowly bending over towards the centre console due to the large increase in pedal load and thus bending moments. Upon analysis the pedal assy flexes loads, so we're looking for another pedal to re-inforce........figured it good to ask if either was a better option to start with.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
only difference between em is the lighter assisted clutch feel of the bi-stable spring assembly, which i prefer cos the other return spring type felt wayy too heavy for everyday driving in traffic.
but mechanically, the tension of the clutch cable is transferred onto the bulkhead via the same structure design in both assemblies (actually looking back closely they are both the same part, just with different springs), which imo is a little weak in resisting lateral movement so the increased load from a heavier diaphram may be beyond what it was engineered for.
maybe weld a plate on the sides to reinforce it?
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
Thanks
aye. whenever major parts are upgraded, all the other parts in the chain usually requires further adaptions or upgrading to cope with the increased stress beyond their original spec (if you want the system to work and last long enough)
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
hey everyone, soz for the lack of updates cos I've been real busy at work and not much done to car as i'm just tryin to enjoy it.
Back at end of May, some of you may have read bout Sulur who needed to replace his damaged engine, so i drove down there with the spare cg13de from me garage, helped install it but in the end it didn't work out. neway we packed everything up and i was about to drive him to a nearby ATM to refund him. went into reverse and moved a metre backwards out the driveway when all of a sudden something went BANG!! the car lurched & rocked back, stalled, gearstick stuck and the clutch pedal dropped to the floor
What the Heck!? this was the last thing i needed while i was exhausted, had to drive home 180miles away for work the next day.
opened bonnet and saw the clutch bracket had sheared away from the clutch arm due to a broken pin. when the pin broke during mid-engagement, the clutch arm had sprung back so hard that it was jammed up. i couldn't move the arm back enough to reach the cable. oh bumma.
while almost panicing from the thought of having to maybe split open the engine/gearbox to fix the clutch, i looked up a pic of the clutch mechanism on me laptop to see what could be jamming and if the thrust bearing bracket could've seperated from the arm. i jiggled the arm up/down/sideways until eventually i could return it back to reach the cable.
but now the brackets missing the pin so i stuck an allen key though the hole, hook it up to the arm and test if the clutch still works and it felt normal. obviously i couldn't drive home like that so asked sulur if i could use the bracket from his SR that was parked with my spare smoking engine. installed and managed to get home, cautious bout the bracket breaking again.
here's the clutch bracket with the riveted pin sheared off
new clutch bracket with broken pin vs Sulurs used bracket that got me home
now the shiney new clutch bracket was installed just few months ago so why the heck has it failed? manufacture defect? or poor design? before the failure, the pedal did feel stiff and squeaky earlier that day.
here's the bush on the rivet pin thats worn from years of operation. i don't feel the pin is made secure enough so i'll replace it with a nut/bolt
drilled the hole in the broken bracket to 6mm and screwed on a threaded bar & nut to beef it up
hooked up and installed. hopefully this never happens again.
yesterday a relative called me about doin a trackday at Rockingham in August 10th
i always wanted to take my car for a blast down the track and after talking to him for ages discussing about the whole thing we agreed on booking the session in advance next week.
website says £179 per car/person but more ppl per booking = discount down to £150
would be awsome if summore micras could join
i'll need to swap back over the original GTIR brake discs so i could get the grooved disc lip machined down by 3mm so it doesn't rub the calipers during the intense track braking.
He also recommended i upgrade my pads from mintex mdb1920 to either Ferodo ds2500 track pads or some Black Diamond Predator Fast Track pads as i'll need all the braking stamina i could get from a fast track.
i found some black diamond FT and EBC Yellowstuff in essex and Ferodo ds2500 on ebay
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=519797
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=3936345
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-SUNNY-Mk-III-Hatchback-2-0-GTI-16V-FERODO-Front-/190401449177
anyone used or recommend any for mainly daily commute and occasional track use?
less dust would be nice for these white rims but good cold bite when commuting and high temp fade resistance when on track is more important.
maybe i should use the mintex for daily commutes then swap to high temp trackday pads when i'm at the track?
Back at end of May, some of you may have read bout Sulur who needed to replace his damaged engine, so i drove down there with the spare cg13de from me garage, helped install it but in the end it didn't work out. neway we packed everything up and i was about to drive him to a nearby ATM to refund him. went into reverse and moved a metre backwards out the driveway when all of a sudden something went BANG!! the car lurched & rocked back, stalled, gearstick stuck and the clutch pedal dropped to the floor
What the Heck!? this was the last thing i needed while i was exhausted, had to drive home 180miles away for work the next day.
opened bonnet and saw the clutch bracket had sheared away from the clutch arm due to a broken pin. when the pin broke during mid-engagement, the clutch arm had sprung back so hard that it was jammed up. i couldn't move the arm back enough to reach the cable. oh bumma.
while almost panicing from the thought of having to maybe split open the engine/gearbox to fix the clutch, i looked up a pic of the clutch mechanism on me laptop to see what could be jamming and if the thrust bearing bracket could've seperated from the arm. i jiggled the arm up/down/sideways until eventually i could return it back to reach the cable.
but now the brackets missing the pin so i stuck an allen key though the hole, hook it up to the arm and test if the clutch still works and it felt normal. obviously i couldn't drive home like that so asked sulur if i could use the bracket from his SR that was parked with my spare smoking engine. installed and managed to get home, cautious bout the bracket breaking again.
here's the clutch bracket with the riveted pin sheared off
new clutch bracket with broken pin vs Sulurs used bracket that got me home
now the shiney new clutch bracket was installed just few months ago so why the heck has it failed? manufacture defect? or poor design? before the failure, the pedal did feel stiff and squeaky earlier that day.
here's the bush on the rivet pin thats worn from years of operation. i don't feel the pin is made secure enough so i'll replace it with a nut/bolt
drilled the hole in the broken bracket to 6mm and screwed on a threaded bar & nut to beef it up
hooked up and installed. hopefully this never happens again.
yesterday a relative called me about doin a trackday at Rockingham in August 10th
i always wanted to take my car for a blast down the track and after talking to him for ages discussing about the whole thing we agreed on booking the session in advance next week.
website says £179 per car/person but more ppl per booking = discount down to £150
would be awsome if summore micras could join
i'll need to swap back over the original GTIR brake discs so i could get the grooved disc lip machined down by 3mm so it doesn't rub the calipers during the intense track braking.
He also recommended i upgrade my pads from mintex mdb1920 to either Ferodo ds2500 track pads or some Black Diamond Predator Fast Track pads as i'll need all the braking stamina i could get from a fast track.
i found some black diamond FT and EBC Yellowstuff in essex and Ferodo ds2500 on ebay
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=519797
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=3936345
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-SUNNY-Mk-III-Hatchback-2-0-GTI-16V-FERODO-Front-/190401449177
anyone used or recommend any for mainly daily commute and occasional track use?
less dust would be nice for these white rims but good cold bite when commuting and high temp fade resistance when on track is more important.
maybe i should use the mintex for daily commutes then swap to high temp trackday pads when i'm at the track?
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frank
Club Member
£150 is still pretty dear paul we paid £50 at mallory and thats nearby http://www.doughnutters.com/
and dont worry about your brakes, just make sure there,s plenty of fresh air getting to them :grinning:
we paid £50 at mallory and thats nearby http://www.doughnutters.com/and dont worry about your brakes, just make sure there,s plenty of fresh air getting to them :grinning:
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
it'll be the first time my car ever see's a track, tis exciting.
dunno bout single wiper, don't fancy leaning over during heavy rain to get a better view and quite like the wipe zone at the mo
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
£150 is still pretty dear paul
and dont worry about your brakes, just make sure there,s plenty of fresh air getting to them :grinning:
does sound expensive now that you pointed out mallory but tis just this one time. interested in doin mallory in future, that's cheapas chips
dunno if brakes gettin enough air from the open rota grid rims. i'll just back off when they're fading
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
ordered pair of black diamond fast track pads for £45 delivered
http://jdmperformance.co.uk/item_detail.php?prodID=55676
waiting for delivery
http://jdmperformance.co.uk/item_detail.php?prodID=55676
waiting for delivery
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OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
pads were delivered tday
bubblewrapped in a big box
contains 4 pads, 4 anti-noise adhesive shims, shim & pad installation guide
4 pads with red/pink bed-in coating
back
adhesive anti-noise shims. noticed the peel off says MSC, maybe stands for micra sports club?
box labelling
first thing to do is to install the old discs then get the grooved disc machined before installing & bedding the new pads in
bubblewrapped in a big box
contains 4 pads, 4 anti-noise adhesive shims, shim & pad installation guide
4 pads with red/pink bed-in coating
back
adhesive anti-noise shims. noticed the peel off says MSC, maybe stands for micra sports club?
box labelling
first thing to do is to install the old discs then get the grooved disc machined before installing & bedding the new pads in
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