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PollyMobiles Rebuild

aye they look the business.

took the disc off and painted them to slow down rusting

k550i (1201).JPG
k550i (1200).JPG


built up several layers of duct tape on the hub till the pulsar disc bore just fits snug on them

k550i (1202).JPG


grinded smooth the calipers

k550i (1203).JPG


all fitted back. to put in the alloy wheel centre bore ring i had to trim off 1 layer of duct tape with a craft knife

k550i (1204).JPG


applied little sealant to the inner face of the centre badge, press into wheel then some more sealant on the fingers. waiting for it to dry enough for the next hour before bedding in these brakes later

k550i (1205).JPG
 
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brakes bedded in
k550i (1209).JPG
k550i (1208).JPG


after afew hard stops when the discs real hot i could hear it faintly grinding against the caliper every 1/2 turn only when braking. then when braking moderately hard it sounds like when ur braking with rusty dsics in the morning, its prob the grooves scraping clean the pads as they're hot. the brake pedal now feels its they're slightly below the throttle pedal.

drove 10min on motorway to cool
got back home to inspect. blimey even after 30min of cool driving the brakes & wheel are still boiling hot. well the centre caps centainly stayed put under the intense heat.

the cool brakes works quietly now this morning. although the pedal feels the same as the old brakes initially where ya need to press abit harder to get much braking, and at the biting point there's more sponginess as the brake lines, pads etc squeeze. obviously pressing harder beyond the biting point it stops harder now but just don't like this uncertain initial lack of biting. maybe need to upgrade the master cylinder?

then me m8 pointed out to me this morning i'll prob need to take the centre caps out eventually when the tyres need changing n balancing..doh. meh thats not till another couple thousand miles i guess
 
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looking good polly. if you dont paint them they soon wnd up rusting in no time. why are they getting so hot for?
 
Manny said:
looking good polly. if you dont paint them they soon wnd up rusting in no time. why are they getting so hot for?
Click to expand...

yep like my rear discs when i first got em, started rusting within afew days.

they getting hot cos of the heavy braking during beddin in. i'm thinking maybe a cooling duct to the back of the hub will help?
the rear brakes do sod all work now, they're barely warm
 
pollyp said:
after afew hard stops when the discs real hot i could hear it faintly grinding against the caliper every 1/2 turn only when braking. then when braking moderately hard it sounds like when ur braking with rusty dsics in the morning, its prob the grooves scraping clean the pads as they're hot. the brake pedal now feels its they're slightly below the throttle pedal.

drove 10min on motorway to cool
got back home to inspect. blimey even after 30min of cool driving the brakes & wheel are still boiling hot. well the centre caps centainly stayed put under the intense heat.

the cool brakes works quietly now this morning. although the pedal feels the same as the old brakes initially where ya need to press abit harder to get much braking, and at the biting point there's more sponginess as the brake lines, pads etc squeeze. obviously pressing harder beyond the biting point it stops harder now but just don't like this uncertain initial lack of biting. maybe need to upgrade the master cylinder?

then me m8 pointed out to me this morning i'll prob need to take em out eventually when the tyres need changing..doh. meh thats not till another couple thousand miles i guess
Click to expand...

I have that initial lack of biting, but no sponginess at the point they start to brake harder, maybe because of Primera GT master cylinder, braided lines and DOT 5.1 brake fluid. Do you have braided lines? They do a big difference when braking harder, gives more feel because they dont expand as much as rubber lines. I was lucky to get a brand new Primera GT master cylinder from UK for only 30£ posted to Portugal, but its not plug and play, you need to get 3 braided lines to adapt it, only one line fitted right away with Primera GT master cylinder. What to you plan to do?
 
pollyp said:
the rear brakes do sod all work now, they're barely warm
Click to expand...

that,s why i,m reluctant to fit gti brakes to mine (apart from the extra weight lol) your front/rear bias is probably nowhere near factory spec now paul, and anyone with these f/brakes and no abs will suffer dangerous understeer while braking into a wet corner :eek:
 
baguete said:
I have that initial lack of biting, but no sponginess at the point they start to brake harder, maybe because of Primera GT master cylinder, braided lines and DOT 5.1 brake fluid. Do you have braided lines? They do a big difference when braking harder, gives more feel because they dont expand as much as rubber lines. I was lucky to get a brand new Primera GT master cylinder from UK for only 30£ posted to Portugal, but its not plug and play, you need to get 3 braided lines to adapt it, only one line fitted right away with Primera GT master cylinder. What to you plan to do?
Click to expand...

i think the little sponginess is cos the small master cylinder & larger caliper piston amplifies the stretchy feeling of the brake hoses

dunno if i should braid all the hoses. i've already replaced both rear hoses.

i'll have a trip to the scrappies on sat to check afew nissan master cylinders. what about using one from an almera or pulsar? then it'll be matched to these caliper. if i find one that is.
i saw afew primera cylinders on ebay and noticed the low fluid level connector is different to mine on some.
 
frank said:
that,s why i,m reluctant to fit gti brakes to mine (apart from the extra weight lol) your front/rear bias is probably nowhere near factory spec now paul, and anyone with these f/brakes and no abs will suffer dangerous understeer while braking into a wet corner :eek:
Click to expand...

aye bias would be off, maybe readjusting the compensator will help. though when i tested the abs with an emergency stop whilst steering round a point it was relatively stable n responsive enough. but without abs, yeah it would be tricky
 
Check my blog for pics of the Primera GT brake master cylinder, its the only one that fits, all the other have a different bolt patern. And it has the same connector as Micra.
 
pollyp said:
smashin i'll checkout the scrappies on weekend
Click to expand...

:grinning:

Make sure its in good condition, or else you must buy a rebuild kit, shouldnt be expensive...

And maybe it will be easy for you to adapt it, only 2 of the 4 exits will be used, no need for braided lines for the master cylinder, and blank the other 2 exits.
 
baguete said:
:grinning:

Make sure its in good condition, or else you must buy a rebuild kit, shouldnt be expensive...

And maybe it will be easy for you to adapt it, only 2 of the 4 exits will be used, no need for braided lines for the master cylinder, and blank the other 2 exits.
Click to expand...

will do

do some primeras not have 2 exit type abs cylinders? i have a new spool of brake piping, maybe i could make a new pipework from new cylinder to abs module for a proper job?
 
pollyp said:
will do

do some primeras not have 2 exit type abs cylinders? i have a new spool of brake piping, maybe i could make a new pipework from new cylinder to abs module for a proper job?
Click to expand...

Dont know mate, only saw that Primera GT master cylinder was the only one that fits. If you check Matt performance rally parts he has that master cylinder for sale. Yes, you can make a custom pipework to fit your setup...
 
his pdf says £148! for a big bore master cylinder. no way

on ebay there's one from a 98 2.0L primera gt £20 but doesn't looks like it'll fit
74665584.jpg


off to scrappies i go with vernier calipers

where ya get ur braided hose from?
 
pollyp said:
his pdf says £148! for a big bore master cylinder. no way

on ebay there's one from a 98 2.0L primera gt £20 but doesn't looks like it'll fit
View attachment 15149

off to scrappies i go with vernier calipers

where ya get ur braided hose from?
Click to expand...

No, that wont fit... Did you check the pics on my blog?

I got my braided hoses from a local hydraulics shop, custom made (both caliper/drum hoses and master cylinder hoses).
 
lovely, i'll look out for one of those. ta

does upgrading to primera master cylinder make it feel firmer hence need to push harder? although will prob resolve this long travel squishy feel by the increased flow per pedal stroke

maybe upgrading the brake booster could improve the biting feel?

during bedding i noticed i brake harder with me left foot than right, most likely due to this real heavy clutch, which may explain why i think the brake feels weak (cos my right feet is weak :p)

just looked at my cylinder and it has 3 exits but the bottom 3rd exit is capped.
 
pollyp said:
lovely, i'll look out for one of those. ta

does upgrading to primera master cylinder make it feel firmer hence need to push harder? although will prob resolve this long travel squishy feel by the increased flow per pedal stroke

maybe upgrading the brake booster could improve the biting feel?

during bedding i noticed i brake harder with me left foot than right, most likely due to this real heavy clutch, which may explain why i think the brake feels weak (cos my right feet is weak :p)

just looked at my cylinder and it has 3 exits but the bottom 3rd exit is capped.
Click to expand...

I have some initial travel when pushing the brake, but then stops and feels very hard, no spongie feeling.

The ABS brake booster is bigger then non-ABS, so you should be fine.

This Primera master cylinder has 4 exits, but i will check with a friend that has a Primera GT 4x4 with ABS and see how many exits it has...
 
i just lowered the acc pedal with a slightly thicker bumpstop (bicycle brakepad) as far as the cable can go and it seems to feel ok now. the stopping/biting point of the brake is now slightly above the acc pedal, just how i like it.

tomorrow i'm gona goto demontweeks to get some goodridge braided brake hose,

then goto brakes international to get a new clutch cable cos this old one seems kinda frictional. especially like when setting off when ur holding at the biting point the cable seizes slightly under the tension, if i wanna release summore clutch slowly as i'm starting to move i doesn't bodge easy and then it suddenly slips and jerks the car a little.

then if i have time i'll pop to the scrappies to check some primera/almera cylinders

today i washed and polished the old nissan 13" wheels ready for storage & selling

k550i (1210).JPG


the little hair net covers tht the rota alloys came with are handy at protecting the alloy face

k550i (1213).JPG


stored in garage

k550i (1214).JPG


anyone wants em, pm me ;)
 
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think i'll order the goodridge hoses online instead for the 20% discount.

i was looking at AtoZ motor centre for the clutch cable £13.40 and i also spotted they sell a primera p10 1.6/2.0 master cylinder 1990-96 for £40
gona check it out when i get there.

i'll also check out if their outer CV boot kit is £0.00 or if its a typo. hope its the former :p
 
aye they're bout over 14kg each (57kg + packaging) plus delivery & tax? i imagine it'll be quite expensive to get to paris

quick calc on parcelforce says bout £115 from 3days or £230 from 1day for a 57kg parcel of four 60x60x20cm packages
dunno if france has import tax too
 
got new clutch cable from partco. operates much smoother now

k550i (1216).JPG


went to scrappy, they had 1 primera gt but master cylinder has been taken. there's 3 more P11 almeras like this

k550i (1221).JPG


but measuring the primera and almera cylinders, the mount spacing are both the same and both don't match the micra brake booster mounting points

k550i (1219).JPG


didnt have any P10 primeras

thinking about it, since i lowered the acc pedal the brakes feel ok now so prob leave the cylinder alone. will order braided hoses next week

got some foam tape to seal the fueltank access panel and stop the cabin smelling of fuel in the morning

k550i (1222).JPG
 
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anyone know if the goodridge brakeline kit from demontweeks or rallynuts are for rear drums or rear discs? just rang em but they're not certain
16243795.jpg
 
bah just got call from rallynuts and goodridge said to them that its only rear drum brake lines they sell, but they could make some rear disc versions if i send em an example of mine. since goodridge don't sell direct, rallynuts said if i send em my rear disc hose they'll pass it to goodridge to custom make it.

its abit inconvenient since my old rear hoses are binned, currently using the car for work and not gona buy a new rear hose for them to copy. gona have to look elsewhere to get it custom made somehow. hmm maybe matt humphris'll know
 
pollyp said:
bah just got call from rallynuts and goodridge said to them that its only rear drum brake lines they sell, but they could make some rear disc versions if i send em an example of mine. since goodridge don't sell direct, rallynuts said if i send em my rear disc hose they'll pass it to goodridge to custom make it.

its abit inconvenient since my old rear hoses are binned, currently using the car for work and not gona buy a new rear hose for them to copy. gona have to look elsewhere to get it custom made somehow. hmm maybe matt humphris'll know
Click to expand...

Hi mate, check if N13/N14/N15 GTI rear disc brake lines are similar to Micra lines. If they are, you could send them to Rallynuts and say what you want. They must be Banjo type, like your front and rears...
 
front hose installed

k550i (1226).JPG

k550i (1227).JPG
k550i (1228).JPG


these copper brake pipe screw ends are abit fiddly to loosen after miles of crud n rust without rounding it off which would've meant re-flaring new screw ends on the pipe or even re-bend a new pipe section. but after some wd40, tight plier grip and patience it snaps loose so i could then use the 11mm spanner to unscrew it.

rear hose

k550i (1230).JPG


at the biting point it feels teeny bit firmer now, more solid. when i push real hard the 1-2mm squish is still there but guess thats cos of the stock master cylinder and not a problem.

may further zip tie the FR outer CV boot cos its spitting some grease onto the alloys
 
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Hi mate, good to see that it works fine.

Later i will upload a video for you to see the pedal gap with the Primera master cylinder, feels very tight.
 
gr8 that'll be fab.

the brakes are abit more grippier at the biting point now few miles after bedding em in. will see how it goes for next few days
 
is that with engine off or on? that looks real firm and only travels within an inch. mine has to stick out like 1.5-2inch above the throttle to build enough pressure.

when pressing i get that hiss, like a bicycle pump, it starts to resist and brake when its 1cm above the throttle then it could be pushed hard a further 1.5cm

i always find that the first brake application works as described above, but when i quickly release then reapply, the pedal stops higher, feels firmer and brakes harder.
ya think the 12yr old cylinders little worn or is that normal?

maybe by quick releasing, the brakes don't have time to retract and push the fluid back, more fluid enters the fully released master cylinder and then by quickly reapplying i'm braking with more fluid in the system than normal hence the higher pedal height.
 
disc runout or wheelbearing wear can push the pads back eh paul, you could try clamping each flexy in turn to see if one corner is at fault :grinning:
 
With the engine on and at idle. I think its very firm at the biting point. But i have a small problem, the brake lines were incorrectly connected to the master cylinder, the left front wheel brakes less then right wheel, and probably it happens on the rears as well. Its just a matter of swapping 2 brake lines. And the brake pads dont handle heat very well, already have some Bendix pads to go in.

What will you do mate? Get another master cylinder or live with the stock? My 11yrs old cylinder was ok, but you can take it off and check it for problems...
 
I'll measure how much travel I have on my pedal, as I've had a set of GTI-R brakes on the K11 for about the last 5 years or so. As for brake pads, although they do dust a fair bit, the only pads I fit to the car all round are Mintex M1144. They're not cheap but they happily stood up to the heavy braking demands of Brands Hatch circuit with no fade issues at all..........I guess ultimately you get what you pay for ;)
 
frank said:
disc runout or wheelbearing wear can push the pads back eh paul, you could try clamping each flexy in turn to see if one corner is at fault :grinning:
Click to expand...

the front discs are new and the rear discs been reskimmed. the travel is the same wether moving or still so doubt its distorted discs.

the rear discs still has some pitted surface so i got some new ones tday
 

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