PollyMobiles Rebuild

[pollyp]

With the engine on and at idle. I think its very firm at the biting point. But i have a small problem, the brake lines were incorrectly connected to the master cylinder, the left front wheel brakes less then right wheel, and probably it happens on the rears as well. Its just a matter of swapping 2 brake lines. And the brake pads dont handle heat very well, already have some Bendix pads to go in.

What will you do mate? Get another master cylinder or live with the stock? My 11yrs old cylinder was ok, but you can take it off and check it for problems...

i think i'll live with it. it does its job and the teeny squishing is minor. i spend most times at the biting point and only feel the squish when really braking hard like emergency stops. how do you check the master cylinder? it doesn't leak down when keeping steady hard pressure on it.

 

[pollyp]

I'll measure how much travel I have on my pedal, as I've had a set of GTI-R brakes on the K11 for about the last 5 years or so. As for brake pads, although they do dust a fair bit, the only pads I fit to the car all round are Mintex M1144. They're not cheap but they happily stood up to the heavy braking demands of Brands Hatch circuit with no fade issues at all..........I guess ultimately you get what you pay for

hey, i just measured mine too.
from the floor corner where the firewall slopes down to meet the floor:
pedal rests at 22cm
biting point is at 18cm
pushing down hard it goes to 15.5cm

 

[pollyp]

so here's the rear left disc & pads. pads seem to wear evenly across the face. disc is 6.25mm

rear right disc & pad. pads are not wearly evenly flat especially the outer pad. when turning the piston the retract, it felt little seized then released, maybe need new piston seals. disc is at 6.27mm

got some new rear discs from partco £58

minimum thickness of 6mm stamped on disc. new discs are 7mm thick

painted disc to prevent rust

pads sanded flat & reinstalled

rear discs before bed in

rear disc after bed in. compared to fronts they've barely scratched the surface even after pulling the handbrake and dragging them during bedding in. could feel the machine marks across the disc with me nails

front discs after bed in. noticable transfer of pad material

 

[frank]

my misses,s is 18cm / 15cm and 13cm paul, and mine,s 18/14/12cm (my handbrake needs adjusting) :wasntme:

 

[pollyp]

thx frank. seems the squish travel is normal then.

frank, maybe afew more pulls of the handbrake to ratchet the self adjuster and get the rear shoes to rest closer to the drums?

 

[frank]

frank, maybe afew more pulls of the handbrake to ratchet the self adjuster and get the rear shoes to rest closer to the drums?

hers is only 3 clicks now paul (mot next week) mine,s about 10 clicks (i,ll pull the drums off and adjust them when i cba lol)

 

[pollyp]

hers is only 3 clicks now paul (mot next week) mine,s about 10 clicks (i,ll pull the drums off and adjust them when i cba lol)

lol fair do's. i'm sure they're self cranking, unless the adjuster is gunged up or seized.

does anyone know where i can get new gear linkage bushes on their own cos it's starting to rattle in 5th at high speeds. nissan cant see it in their database, most spares places prob only sell the entire linkage and the ones in scrappies prob rusted on. maybe i should get some engineering machine shop to make one.

 

[pollyp]

hmm i have an idea, what if i replace the gear linkage bushes with ball bearings?

get machine shop to drill a recess on both sides of the polyurethane bush of the universal joint to fit the bearing casing then machine the bush shorter to keep the 2 ball bearings apart when bolted up? it may smoothen and make changes more precise and last longer then original bush?

 

[pollyp]

took apart the joint tday and it seems the soft polyurethane joint has been worn a little slack

all bearing shops r shut cos of bank holidays but i found a toy helicoptor parts store in leeds open tday that sell 8x14x6 ball bearings so no need to machine the universal joint. drove down and got these

took afew measurements

needed some tube between the bearings and a piece of central heating copper pipe was at hand

one of the joint hole has worn bigger than 14mm so bulked up the bearing with cellotape snug fit

tried to do the same for the gear stick end but now i'm finding the copper pipe is wayy too soft and collapses when i tighten the bolts so the stick seizes against the selector fork. plus there's still some side2side play when in gear, although i think that's more from within the gearbox end. but the loosely worn universal joint doesn't help which means that i'll need to get a whole new linkage anyway to replace the universal joint and bushes.

well, back to the scraps once again

 

[Seb_]

Love your work log Polly !

 

[r-reg-sr]

central heating copper pipe and cellotape hold on you forgot the hammer
i knew you must have had some secret technology at work!!
nice work too

 

[pollyp]

cheers
aye this is cutting edge stuff here, or whatever i could find round the house lol

all diy shops closed again but found some harder steel/alu tubing round the house, one from me tyre depth gauge, one from me mechanical tyre pressure gauge and one from a laser pointer.

 

[Desty]

cheers
aye this is cutting edge stuff here, or whatever i could find round the house lol

all diy shops closed again but found some harder steel/alu tubing round the house, one from me tyre depth gauge, one from me mechanical tyre pressure gauge and one from a laser pointer.

pollyp is the MacGuyver of cars :grinning:

 

[pollyp]

haha never thought of that, luv that show

gota improvise when the shops r closed

 

[pollyp]

so here's the tread gauge and tyre gauge i found to match the bolt, gona have to buy new ones

used pipe cutter to give a square cut and file the inside edge with a countersunk cutter

test fit together with washers making sure it spins freely when tight

fitted

next the clutch pedals been squeaking like mad recently. took it out to oil it thoroughly with engine oil.
i also removed the pedal return spring cos the clutch diaphram feels heavy enough, pushing against another spring doesn't help and its not exactly essential cos its the diaphram thats suppose to return the clutch pedal. plus the spring puts extra stress n wear on the pivot and may contribute to the squeak. also fed oil through the clutch cable to further lube and silence the squeaks.

went for test run and oh yea it worked.

the stick just slots into any gear now with no fuss. when in 1st, 3rd or 4th the stick has 5mm sideway play as before but thats mostly from the gearbox. in 2nd and 5th there's almost no more play. 70mph in 5th the stick would shake about by 10-15mm and maybe rattle, but now with the bearings it only vibrates within 3mm (but i believe thats just engine vibration through the linkages and not play of the joints).

the clutch also feels much lighter n better without the return spring and no more squeaking.

job done

 

[Manny]

my clutch squeeks when pressing it down is the the spring after the pedal? greased it up but made it quiter but gone the same now. how easy is it to take off the spring?

 

[pollyp]

my clutch squeeks when pressing it down is the the spring after the pedal? greased it up but made it quiter but gone the same now. how easy is it to take off the spring?

if urs is like mine with a simple coil return spring, its real easy. just need needle pliers to detach em

my other car had a bi-stable spring to help push the clutch down

for a thorough job i'd loosen the clutch cable, take out the pedal and oil all the pivots with engine oil and also work engine oil down the cable too.

 

[Manny]

thanks polly it looks like the first one. is it ok to remove the springs? just use like long nose pliers and detach from two ends?

 

[pollyp]

thanks polly it looks like the first one. is it ok to remove the springs? just use like long nose pliers and detach from two ends?

yea & yea. the springs does nothing but make the pedal feel heavier. the clutch diaphram is strong enough to return the pedal back.

 

[pollyp]

occasionally whilst driving there's this plastic on plastic rattle in the roof to my right and sometimes can be stopped by pressing the roof to the right of my head, dunno whats rattling so i took off the roof lining.

traced it down the a rivet join between the sunroof rail and the cross brace so i wedged a thin blade between the plates and did the job

left out the roof lining & boot side lining. may save few ounces and there's more rear headroom but there's slightly more roof wind noise and another minor rattle pops up at the rear left somewhere. gona have to get some headphone com system in order to talk to the passenger

washed car. black spots of brake dust starting to bind onto alloys
gona have to clean em off with brake cleaner soon.

got me driving sensation voucher this week to drive the ariel atom for 5laps in teesside sometime during me uk holiday trip in may it'll be a blast

 

[pollyp]

i think this past week the brakes been getting firmer and grippier now during normal commutes. roof rattle still there only during cold mornings. gona take the sunroof apart tomorrow to check

 

[pollyp]

took the sunroof out tonight instead, couldn't wait.

unhooked the drain pipes

removed rusty grip handle mounts

unclipped the bumpstop for the sliding shade

so that the shade could be slide right back in order to be able to access and unclip the interior light cable from the sunroof frame

carefully unbolt the frame from the chassis from front then back then the middle, held one side up with my head whilst unbolting the other side

removed

to remove the wind deflector i removed the pivots

then the clips

but figured i could've just unscrewed it from the frame

removed top cover of the winding mechanism, grease had turned to butter

to remove the glass from the frame take the plastic side cover off to access the star torx screw

glass removed

plastic cover for the mechanism unscrewed

here's the sliding mechanism with the glass tilted up

mechanism closed

to slide open the sunroof, the sliding rail first dips the glass then the finger captures and rotates this rocker arm to unlock and enable the whole mechanism to slide back

glass mount & locking mech out

then the slider. cable is covered in brisles like a toilet brush

finally the glass mount front pivot and wind deflector retractor

all cleaned & regreased

install tomorrow since its too dark

 

[r-reg-sr]

its realy solid the k11 sunroof would love to mod one to electric
and the k10 (g plate)ones can be totaly removed theyr on some quik release mech he he

 

[pollyp]

electric sunroof would be nice, seems ya could just bolt a geared motor straight into the existing winder hole and switch it to a nearby 12v. wonder which sunroof motor from other cars'll fit.

the k10 one sounds like its more of a targa roof than a sunroof

sunny day to fit the sunroof back on

 

[Shaun]

the k10 one sounds like its more of a targa roof than a sunroof

Targa? is that one which just pops up and down and yes i have a very quick release mechanism
have fun fitting your sunroof!

 

[pollyp]

as in the 911 targa the roof just pops off

fitting the sunroof back in was a breeze compared to initially figuring how to take it out & apart.
bolted up frame then slotted the glass in & bolt it up

thing is i have to get some tiny e-clips for the slider runner cos last night i dropped one and it's always the case in my garage that if i drop something tiny i'll never find it again, hate it when that happens.

 

[Manny]

did you find out what was causing the noise? i get a noise also like a humming noise little metal on metal only happens when i take on the motorways and its on and off something must be loose or could be a screw trapped somewhere i cant seem to find it lol.

 

[pollyp]

the roof rattle has gone. some bolts were little loose upon removal but mostly its caused by the riveted sunroof frame. jammed craft blade between the gap on both sides.

get a passenger to track down ur noise out the back.

clutch pedal squeaking again so went to scrappies, grabbed a good one, they're all the bi-stable spring type, installed and ooh the clutch is so much lighter and smoother now

also browsed around for a sunroof motor and saw this from an almera, may do the trick

 

[Manny]

so the bi-stable spring type don't speak and give you that softer feel? its awkward to get down to the pedals do you have to take off the clutch cable off from that?

 

[pollyp]

i think the squeak is cos the 1993 clutch pedal is getting worn out. the new pedal is from a facelift and newer.

just loosen the clutch cable screw, unhook from gearbox lever, take off airbox, unscrew 2 clutch cable bracket nuts,
yea getting inside to unhook the cable from pedal and unbolt it from the chassis right within the dash is a real awkward back breaker

 

[r-reg-sr]

um on that sunroof motor mod for sure- with the controls by the elec windows switches(mod it there right hand operation)
hope it dont add to much weight

 

[r-reg-sr]

electric sunroof would be nice, seems ya could just bolt a geared motor straight into the existing winder hole and switch it to a nearby 12v. wonder which sunroof motor from other cars'll fit.

the k10 one sounds like its more of a targa roof than a sunroof

sunny day to fit the sunroof back on

oh and if the sunroof winder hole is that enticing i might jump in
please let us know how you may wire up the almera one when you do that is
thanks

 

[pollyp]

motor doesn't weigh much, prob same as a drinks can.
back at the scrappy I removed the circuitry attached to the motor, leaving just the black/red motor wires, cos i figured i'd just wire a simple circuit myself. wonder if i should've kept the control circuit and also taken the switch.
wiki'ed about switches and found that i needed a double pole, double throw, centre off, biased switch either rocker or flip type
went to maplin for a dpdt centre off switch but it stays in the mode you flip it to, and not a self centering biased switch
need a sort of electric window/sunroof type switch

any ideas what the switch name is called? i read maybe a Intermittant switch?
i think maybe i should go back to scrappies and grab a window/sunroof switch from that almera or other cars

just touched the motor wires to 12v batt and it runs ok

i think i should wire it up the electric windows 12v circuit as they have the same sorta load so that i dont blow a fuse upon first use like if say i used the interior light circuit instead. or would the interior light circuit do the job?

 

[Shaun]

motor doesn't weigh much, prob same as a drinks can.
back at the scrappy I removed the circuitry attached to the motor, leaving just the black/red motor wires, cos i figured i'd just wire a simple circuit myself. wonder if i should've kept the control circuit and also taken the switch.
wiki'ed about switches and found that i needed a double pole, double throw, centre off, biased switch either rocker or flip type
went to maplin for a dpdt centre off switch but it stays in the mode you flip it to, and not a self centering biased switch
need a sort of electric window/sunroof type switch

any ideas what the switch name is called? i read maybe a Intermittant switch?
i think maybe i should go back to scrappies and grab a window/sunroof switch from that almera or other cars

just touched the motor wires to 12v batt and it runs ok

being in your situation i would stick with an original switch, would love to see it finished (Y)

 

[pollyp]

being in your situation i would stick with an original switch, would love to see it finished (Y)

k i'll head back there someday

 

[r-reg-sr]

k i'll head back there someday

yeh problee worth getting the circuit/switch
almera gear teeth fit good to the stik winder end??
int light might well be too risky how thick is the wire?
spot on with the elec windows power tap in unless? --
when um idling and the window gets to the top when it stop and you dont let go the switch quik enough the cars shudders obviosly due to the battery getin drained and my batt is not that good
looks like um being down the scrapers soon almeria dredging

 

[pollyp]

the sunroof mechanisms looks both the same. the interior light wire is not thick enough imo, the fuse rating's the same though. its prob better to hook up to the windows circuit cos i don't wont it permenantly powered for security & safety reasons.

mine shudders slightly too when windows are shut, tis normal from the increased load. its mainly the alternator that powers the windows when engines running. if its batt problem you'd find it struggles to crank start when left for days.

 

[superls]

you should be able to get a DPDT center off switch from any good electronic shop, be carefull of the current tho as i would imagine that there is a controller for it with relays in, much like the window controller.

 

[pollyp]

i only know of maplin round the north east. guess i shoulda kept the controller circuit on

 

[superls]

oh right i see, i guess im lucky, ive got maplin 15mins away, a real good indapendant proper electronics shop 10 mins away and another similar place 25mins away.

just had a quick look on maplin and found THIS it is stay put in the positions but what ive done before with similar switches is, 1) live with it or 2) you can sometimes dismantel the switch and stop it staying put, and have it sprung return to off.

or

what ive got at home (somewhere) is a miniature toggle switch that is exactly what you need DPDT centre off and sprung return to off. i got it for something and never used it, £5 posted its yours.

alternatively, this may be better to incorperate into your dash/center console, is get 2 press to make push switches, but then you would deffinately need relays as most push to makes are single pole. you would also need some sort of interlocking between both directions to stop the fuse blowing if both buttons are pressed at once.

 

[Desty]

mine shudders slightly too when windows are shut, tis normal from the increased load. its mainly the alternator that powers the windows when engines running. if its batt problem you'd find it struggles to crank start when left for days.

Yep totally normal... a nice little test for your alternator actually - sit there idling and watch the rev counter as you push the switch. It should dip slightly as the alternator starts to do more work (and probably in proportion to how much electrical load there is!), then quickly go back to normal as the engine compensates for the extra demand.

 

[pollyp]

went to scraps during lunch and grabbed the motor control and the switch

came from an almera sport

not sure if there's a unit between the switch and controller but it seems as though a live feed goes to the switch via green wire then when you press the switch, the other 2 wires go straight to the motor controller cos the wire colour matches. another 12v heavier black&white cable going to the controller is prob the main motor power source that the relay switches on/off

anyone have an almera sunroof wiring diagram?

 

[r-reg-sr]

nice game good to figure out!
thanks for the model/year of car compatability a little search on the wiring should have that solved

 

[pollyp]

the only wiring diagram i found was an almera N15 pdf manual but its polish.
gona try decypher it when i have time

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=AOPPCRMM

 

[pollyp]

well looking through the pdf i just found this wiring

Figure 11.43. Wiring diagram of electrical power
1 - battery, 2 - Automatic electric control switch windows and roof open, 3 - ignition switch
(Ignition), 4 - (+) power when you turn the ignition, 5 - to the starter motor, 6 - light switch, 7 - Off
front fog lights, 8 - relay heating, ventilation and air conditioning, 9 - Preliminary relay
power components of electrical equipment, 10 - secondary relay equipment in electrical power
X - connected to the alternator, Y - connection to the electrical control windows and roof opening
Indications color wires: W - white, OR - orange, Y - yellow, GY - Gray, L - blue,
LG - light green, BR - brown, B - Black, R - red, P - pink, G - green, PU - Purple,
SB - Blue, CH - dark, DG - Dark Green

doesn't show much bout the sunroof wiring

 

[Shaun]

keep looking! sure you will figure it out! watching intensly as the first electric sunroof is applied to a micra! (Y)
two things....
1. what was wrong with the almera in the scrappies?
2. why are all the manuals polish? all the k11 ones i find are polish too... lol

good luck! (Y)

Edit: downloaded a file and its an N16 service manual looking to find wiring diagrams...

Edit:

this was under N16 service manual and has power sun roof and power windows? sound familiar? i have the files but dont have the link to the download!

Ta-DA! link ... http://rs765.rapidshare.com/files/249163330/2001_Nissan_Almera_N16_Service_Manual_www.nissanclub.iz.rs.zip
oh and its in english!

 

[pollyp]

keep looking! sure you will figure it out! watching intensly as the first electric sunroof is applied to a micra! (Y)
two things....
1. what was wrong with the almera in the scrappies?
2. why are all the manuals polish? all the k11 ones i find are polish too... lol

good luck! (Y)

Edit: was it an N16 manual you were after?

Edit: Edit: downloaded a file and its an N16 service manual looking to find wiring diagrams...

the almera was a front ender

aye, haven't seen an english online manual anywhere.

yeah its the N16 i took this motor out of. cheers for looking out sed

looks like the motor shaft end has a magnet and the hall-effect sensor on the controller board tracks the number of rotations to auto stop at a specific point.
i just wanna find out for certain how this motor circuits wired up first cos don't wanna just wire up whatever wire matches colour and blow up this controller. if all else fails i took apart the rocker switch and figured it could be hard wired to be a double-pole double-throw polarity-reversing switch but would loose the auto stop feature.

 

[Shaun]

the almera was a front ender

aye, haven't seen an english online manual anywhere.

yeah its the N16 i took this motor out of. cheers for looking out sed

looks like the motor shaft end has a magnet and the hall-effect sensor on the controller board tracks the number of rotations to auto stop at a specific point.
i just wanna find out for certain how this motor circuits wired up first cos don't wanna just wire up whatever wire matches colour and blow up this controller. if all else fails i took apart the rocker switch and figured it could be hard wired to be a double-pole double-throw polarity-reversing switch but would loose the auto stop feature.

look at previous post http://rs765.rapidshare.com/files/2...a_N16_Service_Manual_www.nissanclub.iz.rs.zip
did shaun do good?

 

[pollyp]

look at previous post http://rs765.rapidshare.com/files/2...a_N16_Service_Manual_www.nissanclub.iz.rs.zip
did shaun do good?

wow thats just what i'm lookin for and verifies how i thought its wired.

fantastic job m8

will try it out soon

 

[pollyp]

here's the sunroof switch taken apart

controller board

found some wiring and hooked it up for a testrun.

plugged into cig port, pressed button and whahey it runs, but i one direction only..oh bumma.

thought it was broke or the switch was not contacting on one side. but i just held it down to see if the motor kept going, if yes then the boards broke and need to rewire it to bypass.
but then after afew spins it stops. i press again, it rotates few times then stops again and the other direction button works now. it works

maybe upon first use it needs to crank awhile to slide close the sunroof and the hall effect sensor keeps track if this and then works as normal. running on just battery it struggles abit when sliding the sunroof open/close but fine with tilting but will prob be ok when engines running.

right, test run done, only have to cut off the obstructing thread shaft that prev supported the sunroof handle trim bracket, bolt the motor up to the sunroof frame, wire it upto 12v, install and wire up switch, weekend job done can't wait

thx shaun for helpin