Sunday
new PAS cooler
trim the rad fan to sit closer to the rad & clear the turbo inlet
melted n moved the mounts with heatgun
trim more off the rear edge
need to move reg plate up to allow IC to cool via alot of dremelling to make the face flush. had to redrill new holes lower down for the reg
fuel filter
front end assembled
resprayed dash black
before starting the car i decided to ask dad to drive in his car out into country to find an empty, long, flat road and to assess the traffic on the road. was all clear so time to start the engine.
nervous as ever.
oil primed. fuel took awhile to prime.
pushed the car out the garage, round the alley bend so i can just start her and immediately set off.
starts fine, checked theres no leaks etc and off we go.
drive normally towards the country road. once engines warmed, progressively rev in 2nd gear 2-4k rpm with 25% throttle afew times then 2-5k rpm with 50% throttle then 4-7k with 100% throttle then 2-7k rpm. god its quick
big surprise is the LSD. slow speed when cold it clicks slighty and steering is really heavy.
normally after turning a bend you can just let go the steering and it'll slowly straighten up with little force. with an LSD it strongly wants to straighten up due to the high preload.
when turning slowly, I have to fight and hold the wheel firmly and if i let go it would flick back rapidly.
but the biggest shock is the transition between acceleration & lift.
during break-in when i switch from 100% throttle to 0% quickly, the diff would lock and i would get a consistant steering n drive through corners.
but if i try to feather the throttle mid-corner it would switch slowly from 100% lock (accelerating) to open diff (neutral) to 100% lock (decelerating), you could hear the LSD ramps clunk & jerk between stages and this really upsets the handling becoming unpredictable.
lots of steering correction holding on for dear life, keeps you awake though
learnt to slow to a speed and just hold the throttle/load so the diff stays stable in one state.
after 25miles think i've bothered the residents enough. return back n change to 2nd royal purple and do it again
at 75mile it was getting late and had a turbo to fit next day so headed back. i thought i read that the first 10miles for a fresh engine are the most important and if the rings are not mostly broken-in by then, it prob never will.
changed to castrol gtx 10w40 ready for turbo
checked the cylinders with me endoscope to assess the hone marks. tis alright, still abit deep eh
all pistons have a slightly oily centre, prob from walls retaining the oil
plugs look fine so it's burning normal with no smoke
Monday
a manifold nut had rattled off
oil leak between engine & box, dunno where its coming from. fearing its either input shaft seal or crank seal
janspeed off
turbo mani on
issue with rad fan support
abit of dremelling
lower bracing is blocking the turbo outlet
angle grinded off
turbo to IC piping done
the GTIR turbo elbow was blocked off cos its too close to the IC for any sensor. moved the lamda sensor to the downpipe.
turbo drain
tried to fit alternator bracket on but piping was in the way so some furious angle gridings needed
alternator back casing touching the turbo elbow so took it off. will be ablit toasty
cutting the silicon pipes cleanly with a jubilee clip
air filter sorted
janspeed system vs turbo exhaust
back box is a right pita to slot between the axle & chassis & tank. ended up lifting the left axle beam, lift the right side of chassis, undo the damper and remove panhard rod to fit the box only to find its sitting 1-2" too far left
ok tried to update nistune with turbo map but its not saving it onto the board so will have to export to ecu every time i turn on IGN.
struggled to start cos of the bigger 370 injectors. ploom of black rich smoke out back when reving. misfiring really badly. when i kickdown the throttle it stutters n pauses n misfires. misfires after 3k
no chance of going back to 256 injectors.
exhaust welding was due next day but with all these issues, looked like i'd have to skip it and tbh i'm propper exhausted n sad it didn't work out so well
Tuesday
after reading up abit on resizing injector within nistune last night, i tried resizing the injector multiplier from 340 to 257, no difference, idles fine but stutters under load. saw a guy try 197 multiplier for his 370 injectors, revs smoothly now but stutters at WOT and stalls at idle whatever the idle bleed screw setting, like the IAV is shut and injectors running lean. tried 240 and idles ok, just have to blip the throttle i guess.
rang exhaust shop bout rescheduling, they're busy in next few days but 2pm tday is fine. OK sort out the backbox & reassemble by 2pm.
tried to bash one of the offending support arms to straighten the box but think its fractured at the dodgy weld point so removed the rubber hanger n pull it over with ziptie
rad fan blowing hot air at the BOV so moved to the other side
mad rush getting everything ready in time. start her up, had to blip to get her going. drive out the street and it dies under load.
Bah, so tweeked the injectors to a leaner 200 multiplier, tis drivable but not perfect. was about to give in with this problem but decided to plough onwards
eventually got there, trying to keep boost low. luv the swoosh n pfff
car was dribbling oil, guy not impressed with the dodgy exhaust, wont touch it. to fit the wideband he'll have to make a new downpipe with the flanges for the cat. won't touch the odd mounted backbox with the cracked hanger cos he doesn't work with that brand?
downpipe made. some amazing lookin pipework, gorgeous.
was chatting that i broke the engine in to bout 100miles now, he said tis not barely long enough, needs to be 1000-1500miles till its bedded in and switching to semi-synth GTX doesn't help. so will have to change back to the break-in oil to continue beding, brought 3 more bottles. overall cost £160
back home it leaks badly
from turbo drain
and under gearbox somewhere
ordered new rear crank seal off nissan £26 for thurs morning. gonna try take out the box with engine in place next
