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PollyMobiles Rebuild

Went for a lovely drive in city doing afew junction start offs and to the country for afew power runs letting the peak torque slip the clutch for a sec at the time. My god she's bloomin fast. WOT in 2nd with 10psi boost and 2-way lsd you better hold the steering tight n point it where ya wanna go :)

The backbox hanger that i bashed but fractured has vibrated itself off the box, needs reweldin
 
after few runs shes not leakin anymore

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tday time to fix exhaust and make covers for rear coilovers

taking the spring support off the axle this is how much dirt n muck gets trapped

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filthy. the anodised coating on em certainly helps reduce corrosion. couple sprays n wipe with wd40 and they're shiny n clean again.

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exhaust hanger thats snapped off

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this leaves a gaping hole so have to weld summin over it. lookin around for some similar SS metal, nearest it found was a steel rule, thats SS aint it

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hanger gonna be welded here

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grinded the old weld off the hanger

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1st attempt at weldin the rule over the box. aint pretty but i'll work on it

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blew a hole at one point but i figured that weldin in short stints and pushing the rod closer to melt more filler actually fills up the edge of the hole without burning through. built up the layers n grinded smooth

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hanger welded on. found a slightly higher ampage n moving faster makes it easier n prevents burning through. i'm getting there

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it'll do for holding the box straight

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made cover for rear dampers

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and rear spring covers

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exhaust hangers rattling abit against stuff, needs more refining

drove the car more tonight with afew power runs, stop starts in high gear, slip the clutch during up hills etc and its handling more n more power now
 
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The turbo map runs at 9afr high boost, 12afr medium transition boost and 14afr off boost. Tend to find that injector latency affects idle mixture and stallin. Injector multiplier mainly affect sudden acceleration misfiring but the 9-10afr always happens during boost. Not perfect but it runs till i get it to ed

And yea it drinks twice as much, though it is twice as powerful :p
 
pollyp said:
Ya talkin bout the clutch? Its improving slightly as i do more power slippage and pulling outa junctions wearing it into the fly but i dont wanna cook and glaze it
Click to expand...

i mean the noises you had mate? remember the ones im getting... did they simply go inm the end?
 
reinforced the backbox hanger and cut the hanger arm shorter to stop it rattling against the hanger support bolt

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grinded the petruding training arm bolt so it doesn't hit the exhaust when the rear is fully loaded

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usual trick of wedging the box against blocks of wood with zipties to hold it solid to the body, dont what it swinging about n banging on the suspension.

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tis all rattle n knock free now :)
 
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another issue tday. the front left driveshaft nut has been loosening itself bout 3 times now since i fitted the forged engine & gearbox. tday it was soo loose i could rock the wheel a fair bit. tightened it back at nearby garage but the bearings truely wrecked now cos its getting loud. rang every local scrappy for an ABS front hub but that's gonna be impossible to find. so i rang my local machine shop to order new wheel bearings to be fitted tomorrow, prob another £80. no idea how the nut could undo itself but will need to locktite it on next time.
 
i cant believe your noise like mine has gone and i have to pay 180 for a gear box im well miffed! but good luck mate using a press is a piece of poo ask if you can do it yourself mate
 
I'll let the guy press me bearings

Dunno if me old rattlin noise was the clutch or input shaft bearin. Both the old clutchplate springs & old gearbox shaft seems solid so dunno. New gearbox is fine, part from the lsd chattering only when slowly turning right
 
No grease on the release bearing sleeve. I now use graphite powder on where the fork meets the bearing clips and where the rotating bearing face meets the diaphram fingers and a smear in the input shaft splines. copper grease works fine too
 
got some better mounts from scrappys the other day. will need to restrain the front mount cos the engine moves abit when lifting off

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since installing the engine & lsd gearbox the passenger driveshaft nut has been loosening itself bout 3 times now. yesterday it was soo bad i could rock the wheel quite abit so had to get nearby garage to tighten it to get home. think he tightened it beyond the specified 177nm (felt more like 250 cos i had to use a long pole to undo it) and so i had to get the bearing replaced tday as they were noisy n shot. £26 for new bearings and £15 labour i fitted the hub back n its quiet again.

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went for a very long run to bed the clutch n engine. clutch can now handle the power in all but 1st gear. the engine has now used the break-in oil till its at the low level (aint buyin any more). engine compression is very even at 10.7 across all cyl and the piston tops are mostly dry now. guess its time to change oil.

what do you guys recommend?
i'm thinking stick to mineral for the next 500m to further bed em in till the pistons r dry and oil level is under control before switchin over to fully synth.

so could i just use some odd supermarket mineral stuff?
what fully synth is recommended for me turbo?
 
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I always though Mineral Oil was meant for the initial 100 miles on the break in period then switch to the oil you intened on using
 
i feel its not yet fully bedded in yet. sides of piston top are still abit damp with oil and it still uses oil slowly. guy at aas exhaust suggested 500-1000m before switchin. its now done 522m. feel i should keep with mineral and keep an eye on oil level till it stabilizes before goin fully synth.
 
pollyp said:
the front one has alota movement, shall i get front & back from matt?
Click to expand...

Just the rear one. I installed the rear and side ones, not the front one. I installed the rear one first, the other ones went to their places right away, and the bumps that the engine made because of the ceramic clutch disappeared, only with the Nismo rear mount. But you will have much more vibration inside the car with the Nismo mounts...
 
If the vibrations are like on solarices then i could live with it, mean the whole car shakes anyway when i'm turning right with the lsd n clutch. Cheers

Spoke to ed bout oil and yeah i could switch to any odd mineral for the next 500m to finish the bed-in then switch to summin like halfords fully synth 10w50 racing oil.

Just filled with tesco 10w40 mineral oil and renewed the lsd oil.
 
I get a whole array of noises from the front with the LSD in. It really loads everything up. No chatter though, but that's because I run a bottle of Redline friction modifier, otherwise it chatters like someone's got a loose bag of spanners under the bonnet.

I will be replacing all the Nismo mounts soon, as mine are 6years old and well past it. I have found that the vibrations through the car have diminished over time and the engine mounts have taken a huge beating after the helix paddle clutch and LSD went in. Time for an upgrade to keep everything in check.

By the way polly, I will be opting for a special LSD configuration with Gripper at some point, as I would like something as a minimum of 40/65 but prererably something like 45/85 for optimum track use to increase the turn-in of the car entering bends and reduce the pre-load plenty, as mine is rather too high, (I have a feeling Gripper build these for a forest spec, so the preload is high to allow the cars to be able to limp home with a busted driveshaft). Either way, plenty of room for improvement for tarmac track setups I believe :)
 
Low Rider said:
I get a whole array of noises from the front with the LSD in. It really loads everything up. No chatter though, but that's because I run a bottle of Redline friction modifier, otherwise it chatters like someone's got a loose bag of spanners under the bonnet.

I will be replacing all the Nismo mounts soon, as mine are 6years old and well past it. I have found that the vibrations through the car have diminished over time and the engine mounts have taken a huge beating after the helix paddle clutch and LSD went in. Time for an upgrade to keep everything in check.

By the way polly, I will be opting for a special LSD configuration with Gripper at some point, as I would like something as a minimum of 40/65 but prererably something like 45/85 for optimum track use to increase the turn-in of the car entering bends and reduce the pre-load plenty, as mine is rather too high, (I have a feeling Gripper build these for a forest spec, so the preload is high to allow the cars to be able to limp home with a busted driveshaft). Either way, plenty of room for improvement for tarmac track setups I believe :)
Click to expand...

for some reason mine only chatters during slow tight right turns. left turns are silent. it really sounds n feels like a ratchet noise maker/football rattler etc as the plates just grip n slip loose, thought the tyre was caught on a splashplate even though i don't have one. think i could live with it for abit, try not to make many right turns which is impossible :)

guess i'll give matt a call nxt week bout the rear nismo mount. they need a press to swap right?

apparantly on grippers leaflet they can change the ramps n preload n plates to your requests free within 6 months of purchase, long as you pay postage. would like to change to 1.5-way but can't be bothered with the hard labour of taking it all out again, i'll adapt to it instead.

my preload has loosened up alot now compared to new. with one side jacked up and in neutral i could turn the wheel, tis just like binding brakes sorta resistance level.

with regards to what i thought was the exhaust knocking against the frame during on/off throttle, i believe its actually the lsd clunking inbetween locked & open diff mode
 
an annoying occurance with the clutch is that the bite point is sometimes 1/2 way and sometimes the mechanism binds slightly and its like 3/10 way up where the level of slippage stays 50% till i lift the pedal beyond 1/2 way up and it resumes operation.

when it binds i'm having to pop it into neutral, release the clutch fully feeling it unbind itself from prob the release bearing sleeve surface, press the clutch back down, select 1st and it works normal n smooth again..till i stop again.

it feels like its summin to do with the alignment of the splines cos when i stop and it binds, i release the clutch to unbind, re-engage clutch & 1st and as long as i'm stationary the clutch works normal. although if creep forward bout 1", engage clutch and stop then try to set off, it binds again.

i tried to loosen the cable to lower the biting point incase the clutch fork was travelling too far when pressing the pedal fully down and jamming the release bearing against the sleeve but that has no effect. no clue what the cause is.

with the break-in oil at the low level, i changed to tescos mineral oil and renewed the lsd oil. this is the old lsd oil thats done 522miles, dark n full of tiny metal looking like metallic paint

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replaced the gearbox mount

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old mount with big crack vs newer mount from scrappy

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dremelled the bumper mouth opening to be flatter

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then hot glue the mesh onto the mouth

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nicely done. better than nothing i guess at keeping flies n debris outa the IC

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took it round for a test. no smoke so minral oils fine. lsd clatter is still there turning right.

just as i returned home some friggin teenage asbo retarded idiot threw an egg at the car as i turned a corner. these retards have nothing better to do? 2nd time i wash the car now. least it wasn't summin harder or else they'll see me handbraking round n run em down!
 
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is it pea shooter time this summer? , hmmmmm just a special thought for those little reaganites:grinning:

glad your bedings going good, as it would be an expensive mistake at this point
 
Sister saw the groups of guys girls lobbing at others cars too. Useless little peasants

Yea i'd be gutted if the engine n stuff didn't improve.
 
I don't do a huge amount of miles in my car but the diff has definately settled in, although the preload is still there. I will be back in the UK in May, so I will see what is still there by hand. I will have to have the box off anyroad so I can get the work process started with the 31V box I have, so it won't be much work.

Clutch wise, mine is the top of the line Helix racing clutch. Rattles like hell when the clutch is depressed and is pretty heavy on the pedal but the hookup is outstanding, so performance outweights any issues like that. I must sort out some new boots though, the T1-S currently on the car are WELL past it and are SERIOUSLY loud on the road. I'll shove a set of R888 on there and see what happens with the 0-60 and road noise. With the miles I do per year I couldn't care about tyre life and it's not as though a K11 is a heavy car.

According to the gripper site they don't offer what I am requiring, but I will open a dialogue with them and see what happens. You never know, it may cascade down the line and be something available, and when I can get the 31V box hooked up it will be interesting to compare to the VLSD also. I am sure I will more than likely commission them to make a special LSD for the 31V box seeing as the Nismo and Cusco LSD's for that box have been discontinued.
 
Low Rider said:
I don't do a huge amount of miles in my car but the diff has definately settled in, although the preload is still there. I will be back in the UK in May, so I will see what is still there by hand. I will have to have the box off anyroad so I can get the work process started with the 31V box I have, so it won't be much work.

Clutch wise, mine is the top of the line Helix racing clutch. Rattles like hell when the clutch is depressed and is pretty heavy on the pedal but the hookup is outstanding, so performance outweights any issues like that. I must sort out some new boots though, the T1-S currently on the car are WELL past it and are SERIOUSLY loud on the road. I'll shove a set of R888 on there and see what happens with the 0-60 and road noise. With the miles I do per year I couldn't care about tyre life and it's not as though a K11 is a heavy car.

According to the gripper site they don't offer what I am requiring, but I will open a dialogue with them and see what happens. You never know, it may cascade down the line and be something available, and when I can get the 31V box hooked up it will be interesting to compare to the VLSD also. I am sure I will more than likely commission them to make a special LSD for the 31V box seeing as the Nismo and Cusco LSD's for that box have been discontinued.
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i may have to consider adding some lsd modifier cos driving round london last night doin U-turns with a loud crackle tis alittle embarrasing like somethings broke.

driving down to london i edited the injector multiplier till it cruises at 14.7afr and sticking to 60mph'ish with abit of traffic it did 51mpg :eek: it felt effortless goin up inclines and overtaking from 60-70mph so turbo def helping with economy here. i noticed that it only runs at 14.7 when cruising on level road and normally richens abit when accelerating but if i lift the throttle to slow down and not completely lift off the mixture goes really rich like 9-10afr.

and then obviously driving spiritedly in urban london with numerous jams the mpg 1/2's.

i think this lsd that matt requested for me to include the speedo was for a pug 10'summin, they may custom make summin for ya.

will need more time getting used to the clutch engagement cos i'm having to use abit more revs for longer to set off without stalling cos there's not enough torque below 1500rpm when the turbos stationary, whereas with the janspeed mani i could just drop the clutch at normal revs and it pulls away. maybe richer the injector multiplier for london driving tday cos it sometimes tends to stall when braking or reversing.

think changing to mineral 10w40 has quietened the engine chain rattle alot. injectors still sounds like a diesel at idle :p
 
last night i caned it back home and it did 30mpg driving hard at 70-80 which is pretty much similar to the janspeed setup with stock engine. this morning i checked oil and its well below LOW at just the tip of the stick! yikes:suspect: hope nothings damaged. still sounds & works normal

poured rest of oil into engine and was only at halfway so brought another litre of mineral for further running. compressions evenly increased another 0.1bar as the miles increase and piston top is now 95% dry. just abit more milage before switching to fully synth for the remap.

ed suggested halfords 5w50 motorsport fully synth. tis more expensive than usual stuff i used, what d'yall think?

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since the engine needs abit more running in shall I:

a- do as much miles as possible then switch to fully synth on tues night to drive down to ed on wed
b- drive down to ed still on mineral, change to fully synth once i get there for remap
c- just stick with mineral before during & after remap till compression & oil consumption has finally sorted itself before goin synthetic (maybe i wont be getting the most efficient power during remap till i change to synth?)
 
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Don't i could get the comma oil delivered in time so i may have to settle with the expensive rebranded halfords stuff unless some shop nearby sells comma
 
Scopez uses that exact halfords 5 50w and will vouch for it

Ed fusion and himself went to halfords to buy it, I checked and it's 24.99 with trade card matey if you have one, this oil changing malarky must be doing your head in by now :eek:

Are you going for same psi on the remap? Or are you gonna go a little further? Also do you have to change your ignition timing to suit ?

Looking good though mate your gonna love it :)
 
drove to work this morning noticed the lsd is abit quieter when cold during right turns but once warm it chats only during light loads such as setting off from junctions but is quiet when coasting in neutral or accelerating round corners.

oil level still same so the previous sunday oil drop musta been from the constant 70mph+ high boost driving.

coolant on the other hand, i'm getting air pockets in the upper rad pipe which slowly pushes coolant out into the expansion tank till it brims. after sundays hard 70mph+ driving the coolant level was briming and upper coolant pipe was empty. driving to work also generates abit of gas in system.
i started the cold engine with cap off n revved engine to check for low load gasket leaking and there's no bubbles so i wonder if either the coolant is boiling off (cos ecu temp reading is between 90-95C compared to normal 82C) or the high boost pressure is forcing past the headgasket into the coolant abit.
 
martinb21 said:
Scopez uses that exact halfords 5 50w and will vouch for it

Ed fusion and himself went to halfords to buy it, I checked and it's 24.99 with trade card matey if you have one, this oil changing malarky must be doing your head in by now :eek:

Are you going for same psi on the remap? Or are you gonna go a little further? Also do you have to change your ignition timing to suit ?

Looking good though mate your gonna love it :)
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just brought the oil down local halfords cos driving to leeds for a £25 comma oil will cost more.

i dont have a trade card. yeah breaking in a new engine requires soooo much oil & filter & fuel. garage has like 5 used filter, yet to open em up to inspect.

keeping same psi for now, 163bhp in 2nd gear is frightening and'll do :)

i only tweaked the injector multiplier & latency here to get it going. ed'll do the fine tuning on wed
 
hmm if the boost pressure is going past the headgasket into the coolant and needs replacing, d'ya think a genuine nissan gasket will be ok?
 
pollyp said:
do I undo the head bolts then torque back upto spec or just add 1/4 turn?
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if its still how ed and i set it, then it was done totally to the book paul (i think i personally do mine tighter)
i would record the position of your breaker bar, then back one off 1 turn, and see if the breaker bar position has gone any further when re-torqued, usually when i re-torque mine after being left to compress overnight, i find that they,ll go another 1/8th of a turn for the same torque (one at a time)
 
frank said:
if its still how ed and i set it, then it was done totally to the book paul (i think i personally do mine tighter)
i would record the position of your breaker bar, then back one off 1 turn, and see if the breaker bar position has gone any further when re-torqued, usually when i re-torque mine after being left to compress overnight, i find that they,ll go another 1/8th of a turn for the same torque (one at a time)
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yeah, I didn't touch it after we did it frank:)
 
maybe it needs a slightly higher torque to withstand the 10psi of pressure that the gasket & torque sequence wasn't originally intended for?

ok guess i'll have to disturb the nice engine cover gasket i did, cams out, mark the headbolts position, undo bolts 1 turn, tighten back to stage 3, turn 60deg checking if its turned more than before, finally turn upto 70deg.

ya think the bolts can take it?
 
pollyp said:
maybe it needs a slightly higher torque to withstand the 10psi of pressure that the gasket & torque sequence wasn't originally intended for?

ok guess i'll have to disturb the nice engine cover gasket i did, cams out, mark the headbolts position, undo bolts 1 turn, tighten back to stage 3, turn 60deg checking if its turned more than before, finally turn upto 70deg.

ya think the bolts can take it?
Click to expand...

i think you,ll find they go another 1/8th of a turn even at the stock settings paul, i probably give mine about 20% more torque than haynes says, and thats with re-used gaskets eh :grinning:
 

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