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Andy_S Micra SR20 - Done Properly

Yes the current engine must be a primera gt engine with oil filter at rear. My Almera engine has oil filter at the side.

The gearbox currently in is a primera gt one and the Almera gearbox is different with its mounts.

I've got bigger injectors on current primera engine. Could swap those over.

Also run off boost? U mean keep waste gate open somehow?


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yes disconnect the w/g rod, or drive without boosting it (difficult as that is eh ;)) the turbo injectors will overfuel at low throttle, so best to swap them over at the tuners :)
 
Ok ed mentioned getting a 200sx afm. I guess this works on standard loom plug?

So if I disconnect wastegate rod. Disconnect my extra injectors. Leave standard almera injectors in. Leave almera afm on, Take my bigger injectors, wastegate rod and new afm to ed it will be fine till its remapped.

No boost boooo lol. Even my company van is turbo diesel lol


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I would have thaught you could keep the primera gearbox........ Dint know for a fact tho, I guess you could bolt it up and see easy enough.

If only you were closer to me id happily lend my hammer.
 
Well the Almera has a paddle clutch which will handle even more power than my fast road clutch which still slips! Gutted plus its already on the Almera engine ;-)

The gearbox mount on the chassis needs sorting anyway as its doing what the white one did and the water pulley Is hitting the chassis when turning left!

I'm guessing the prev owner just used it as a drag car and not daily like me lol




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I keep hearing about the water pump hitting, mine has loadsa room my pas pump is 7-8mm away and is fine.

could keep the gearbox (n15 clutch) but fit a polyurethane bush, thatl keep it toight like the tiger, and no welding required.
 
well my gearbox is under the chassis rail, and pokes out 2-3mm (no tyre rubbing) maybe its easier withe the almera setup to get clearance due to the side gearbox mount.....

oh just checked glens build, same setup as mine.. Apologies.
 
Haha we didn't want to overhang the gearbox to much past the edge of the chassis rail. I'd say we got his pretty spot on all round, but took ALOT of pissing about and trial/error
 
I believe ive found the problem with this current engine.

I bought a primera P11 service manual cd (same as what Nissan use) and in the section for my engine it tells me problems and causes. Now my ticking problem is there and it says never to put the hydraulic lash adjusters down on their side or upside down and to also submerge in oil. now we removed them and put on the side and also squeezed all the oil out of them.. hmm that's prob why its now ticking! lol

so tonight im going to take all the hydraulics out one at once put in oil, squeeze them so any air in them gets released then put back in engine and build engine back up again and see if that fixes it. If so then im on a winner! then it will be time to get it down to ED for mapping
 
U can hear it cylinder 1 when ur right next to sump with ears


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We did what nissan service manual said with hydraulics and that didn't work so the other part of the manual says tapping from bottom end is also symptom and is shells


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SR,s are renowned for spinning shells, but that did,nt sound like rodknock tho andy (this was my rodknock)

and you only need to drop the sump to change them eh :)
 
yes, let it idle, and pull each lead off in turn (with some of these preferaby, if you dont want a high voltage pisser :D)

P5231059.JPG
 
right I did each on after I let it warm up as when cold the exhaust is annoyingly loud lol.

still Ill post a vid up of how it sounded going from cylinder 1 (camshaft side) to cylinder 4

http://s440.photobucket.com/user/andy_s87/media/IMG_40331_zps606eba2b.mp4.html


I figured out that it stopped the tick tick tick when I took cylinder 1 lead off so I guess ive done some bottom end damage.

trouble is shells come in different sizes according to Nissan who printed the list of different shells off for me so ive now got to remove mine to see what sizes they are!

also I cannot tell if my engine is a almera or primera engine now due to oil filter location
 
you will probably need the thickest grade shells on a 50k mile engine anyway andy, but its more likely to be a piston/little end issue if its "ticking" (does it sound anything like my rodknock ?)
 
best to take the head off really then mate, thats why i said to diagnose the note with the plugleads (no change in note = valvegear, notechange = piston/rod)
 
I took leads off and it stopped when took cylinder 1 out so prob a rod then


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the SR20det,s have piston oil squirters in the bottom of the block iirc andy, i think i would run 5psi max, personally (still 200+ hp eh)
i would lift the head and check the piston and the movement compared to cyl#4, then drop the sump and pull #1 piston out
 
If I lift the head don't I need a new head gasket and bolts?




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Did a bit of colour checking. Definitely like the orange I tried but love the green too. So I know these are not micras as I cannot find them in gran turismo 5

Which one?

y6enyma4.jpg


uhu8e4a2.jpg


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369770313.544898.jpg



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if oil filter is abover power steering pump its a primera gt lump.
if its under inlet manifold pointing towards back of car its an almera lump.

p.s. are you boosting this engine on standard internals?
 

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