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Porks bike carbs and boost project

Jus cheap mild steel.

This was a right pain in the ass to do with no car lift or ramps!! But here s what I got up to tonigjt


Wiggly bit round gear linkage
u3e5a6u6.jpg


Couple if bends round fuel tank
asunynyj.jpg


Cars to low to use the over axle tube lol
avesu4an.jpg


So trimmed it down and tucked it under the axle
du3e7y7e.jpg


Here's the tacked up exhaust as a whole, looks massive! Lol
enytusev.jpg

dera8a6e.jpg


Jus gotta weld it up, put some brackets on, then find a back box
 
Haha, yeah, **** it ;)

That was more money, always add one later, but will be putting on a back box off some description,
in total it's cost £130 pp, so not to bad
 
Correct me if I'm being stupid (pretty bloody possible), but if it's under the axle won't the axle rest on the exhaust when the car is jacked up? What with suspension droop and all that?
 
Huggy444 said:
Correct me if I'm being stupid (pretty bloody possible), but if it's under the axle won't the axle rest on the exhaust when the car is jacked up? What with suspension droop and all that?
Click to expand...
I found when I run coilovers on a K10 the rear axle only droops by about 2 inches max.
 
Exhaust sounds sweeeeet. !!

So much quieter in the car, even with out any silencer or back box, tempted to jus leave as is lol


Jus so I don't have to trawl thru stuff , did anyone determine the maximum boost a closed deck cg13 with stock internals and 2 head gaskets can take?
 
i boosted over 20 psi a few times neil (very short bursts) its the ringlands that let go first (from det more than from boost levels)
 
Oh yeah, think I found where the brake fluid is going, the pot on the master cylinder is dripping......so if anyone has one going spare, il take it
 
pork said:
Exhaust sounds sweeeeet. !!

So much quieter in the car, even with out any silencer or back box, tempted to jus leave as is lol


Jus so I don't have to trawl thru stuff , did anyone determine the maximum boost a closed deck cg13 with stock internals and 2 head gaskets can take?
Click to expand...

12psi for 5 months of daily driving abuse? Headgaskets were still like new when removed lol
 
One thing I have noticed (now I have an exhaust)

Is there's a lot of poping and banging on the overrun/deceleration (right terms?)

Should I be worried?

Sounds badass, but if it's no good, it'll have to be sorted
 
Il try and get a recording , sounds like a few guns being fired....beings I live on luton, gets people nervous whilst poodling round town
 
Been doing a bit if bodywork today, knock out a few of the dents, rust and stuff

Got a mate who's opening up a body shop soon, so gunna trade some work with him, il do him parts cheap, he paints the car lol

Same colour ,

quje5e6y.jpg
 
So after a couple of tins, I've come up with this for the twin charge set up

a2ume8ev.jpg


Turbo into s/c, at 3.5k s/c disengages, bypass opens and turbo takes over

Throttle closed, vacuum bypass valve opens releasing pressure into turbo inlet pipe. Idle control circuit too

I've got a rev counter with adjustable shift light, so if I tap into that and set light to come on at 3.5k, that's what il use to control the electromagnetic clutch


Feel free to pick holes in the plan ;)
 
You'll need the vacuum for the bypass taken from all 4 intake pipes behind the throttle body's of the carbs... but you probably have that already for your BOV no? (guess you're using the vacuum bypass as a recirculating BOV instead now)
I can't see anything wrong, that's pretty much how I would do it :)
 
You might have to do some Frankspeed style mods to tweak it for this but I'm planning on using that too. I like your idea with the shift light btw, that was exactly what I was gunna suggest haha :)
 
Enuo said:
You might have to do some Frankspeed style mods to tweak it for this but I'm planning on using that too. I like your idea with the shift light btw, that was exactly what I was gunna suggest haha :)
Click to expand...

I bought it randomly the other day from r tec in St. Albans, my rev counter broke and this was all they had and sold it to me for cost price,

It's a bit max power loookng, but it's a happy coincidence I bought it I guess, and the shift light idea jus popped in my head
 
What size are your boost pipes gunna be, and do you have a check valve big enough to use on the turbo line? If not you could use a 1 way valve and have the shift light open that as well
 
pork said:
I can get any size valve, jus the coils used to activate them might be an issue, most are 230v or 24v AC
Click to expand...
You can get 12v dc ones, might be an older standard though as I've only seen it on the wheelabrator stuff at work
(our wheelabrator kit is all on its last legs and at least 14 years old)
 
pork said:
Il browse the rs catalogue at work.


Jus wondering though, should the change over be purely rpm based?
Click to expand...
I'd do a check valve, so the super charger pressure holds it closed until the turbo pressure is higher than the sc pressure, then you'll get a smoother transition if the turbo comes on boost just before the sc cuts out, but the 1way valve is just another option. Can never have too many backup options :)
 
Could look at that, but those things ate quite restrictive ...... Plus the double kick off power would be funny ;)
 
:O I just thought of a problem... as the turbo spools up the aor density will increase at the sc intake, so if your sc is working at a pressure ratio of 1.5 and you already have the turbo generating a pressure ratio of 1.2 say, you'd get 1.8 at the engine (0.8 bar boost)... maybe you should have seperate air feeds to the sc and turbo?
 

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