My only 2nd guess would be th3 :/Can't find any results with that,
Does look like TH.......something
Says GS and GSX I think
If it's wrong you owe me a pack of bourbons for calling me an amateurTH9... amateurs
Nice one!I volunteer in an automotive paint shop on Saturday morns
I could chuck in oxford blue Nissan and see what code it chucks up?
Fine, if it goes the other way when I'm right. I once spent a week straight making readable engineering drawings of railway wagon brake components from badly photocopied engineering drawings we got from the National Railway Museum in york... I got a lot of practice reading tiny, pixelated writingIf it's wrong you owe me a pack of bourbons for calling me an amateur
As a test Neil do the other paint codes bring anything up?Doesn't cone up anywhere..... Il have to ask a few paint suppliers I guess
I'll just grumble and wander offYou want my address so you can send me those Bourbons Andy?
Need a fith gear!!
It's all well and good having the acceleration to put people to shame, it's no fun running out of puff top end
Should I try source a 5speed ma12 box (bolts straight on, no modding gear linkage)
Or is a cg10 5 speed better ?
Could be the master cylinder went pop, a flexible hose has gone pop or a caliper/piston has gone pop.
Basically... start at the servo and work outwardsServo?
Stay in 1st and don't be afraid to stall itCheers people..... Bit stuck where I am with no tools , wet floors and #### lol
Gunna have to drive slow and use handbrake to get me home
Its the brakes... you don't skip a component regardless of the situationIf a servo goes you still get brakes but they will be harder to press, no resistance means either no fluid or the seals in the master cylinder.
As above check for leaks first.
Try teeing off a flow valve venting to atmosphere from the boost line to the wastegate actuator, you'll have one lying around am sureAlso been looking at boost controllers.
Are manual ones any good , cheap eBay ones ?
look simple enough to make, but materials and effort cost more than it is to buy one made
Tiny bit much Neilhave I topped it up to much ? Thought it's meant to go to the bottom of the speedo drive ?
just above the plastic cog eh neil, and my boost controller is a ghetto ball and spring jobbie (2 x 1/4 bsp fittings)Topped up with fluid, all fine and solid again
Il investigate later.
There's a lot of gearbox oil over the gearbox too , looks like it's coming out if the breather pipe , have I topped it up to much ? Thought it's meant to go to the bottom of the speedo drive ?
Hope I get my box of exhaust parts tomorow !
just above the plastic cog eh neil, and my boost controller is a ghetto ball and spring jobbie (2 x 1/4 bsp fittings)
we dont have a filler plug on our rs5f41 type g/boxes eh neil, speedo drive filling only, and here,s mine they work perfect
i also have a tiny bleed hole so that the pressure cant slowly build up
View attachment 26694
if you fit a bike pump and gauge to your actuator, you will see the rod start to move with only a couple of psi neil, (and slowly extend as you apply more pressure)
you need the rod to stay still till the desired boost level, and then open as needed.
so the ball and spring holds the pressure back till the w/g needs to open.
here is the thin wd40 straw that vents off any pressure that leaks past the ball
View attachment 26695View attachment 26696
Its the brakes... you don't skip a component regardless of the situation
Wasn't openly saying you said to skip it but I put it up there for reference.Didn't say to skip it, said to check for leaks first.
I'm more than aware of the importance of the braking system, I've had my brakes completely fail on the entrance to a sharp corner at 60+mph its not fun at all.