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PollyMobiles Rebuild

pollyp said:
heya works like a charm now.
the preload is quite low which is street friendly. jacking one wheel up n it turns with some resistance so preload ring is still working. the mid-corner lift sudden release has gone and so LSD engagement is much much smoother now with such low preload.

launch traction is as usual gr8 when the torque locks up the diff enough
Click to expand...

What did you go for in the end, 40/65?

I had an e-mail back from gripper and the contents explained a lot to me. They were stating that they make them up with between 65 and 75lb/ft of preload, which on a car that makes 100lb/ft is pretty insane. That adequately explains why I have been experiencing the things that I have. They suggested re-building it with 40/65 ramp angles and with 20-30lb/ft preload, which I can appreciate will make the car behave VERY differently.

I think I will send them the 31V LSD unit, as there is no point in having the 30A version re-built as it will never be used. I will also more than likely go for a unit without speedo drive this time, as I am intending to use one of the ABS hubs as a pickup for an electronic speedo.

Now that I have heard the above, I am feeling all together more positive about going forward :)
 
Low Rider said:
What did you go for in the end, 40/65?

I had an e-mail back from gripper and the contents explained a lot to me. They were stating that they make them up with between 65 and 75lb/ft of preload, which on a car that makes 100lb/ft is pretty insane. That adequately explains why I have been experiencing the things that I have. They suggested re-building it with 40/65 ramp angles and with 20-30lb/ft preload, which I can appreciate will make the car behave VERY differently.

I think I will send them the 31V LSD unit, as there is no point in having the 30A version re-built as it will never be used. I will also more than likely go for a unit without speedo drive this time, as I am intending to use one of the ABS hubs as a pickup for an electronic speedo.

Now that I have heard the above, I am feeling all together more positive about going forward :)
Click to expand...

i just requested changing from 2way to 1.5way, i think it looked like 30/65

if the original preload on mine was 65-75ftlb with 2way ramps, its definately too high for street driving. was really noisy chatter at full lock which loosened the driveshaft nut and had a sudden on/off engagement.

the 30/65 ramp with i believe 30ftlb preload is alot more progressive.

if you can use the stronger non-speedo version, thats the best config cos it'll engage evenly left/right. dave said the one-sided lsd tends to tighten themselves during right turns like at roundbouts
 
Teesside Autodrome trackday April 10th 2012​

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in the morning i met my cousin in his skyline while we were filling up at the same station, would also be taking my m8 for a ride too. stored my tools in his celica

registered, had free bacon bun, briefed and began the siting laps at 9:10
set dampers to full hard 30click front/rear



brakes n tyres warmed up, maintained pressures at 3bars, i take my m8 for a ride. he rides some fast bikes and choppers but its the first time he's sat in my car thats in action, he was pretty excited eh :)



front is understeering abit so set dampers to 25/30 front rear. then i took my cousin out for a ride



adjusted dampers further to 20/30 front/rear to improve front grip. track getting better and gaining confidence. half of the loaded front left tread is shredding to pieces from the high slip angles and unusually loaded front left cos i originally corner balanced her with no passengers.



put the camera near the suspension to see whats going on. them toyos really flex alot. can really see the discs glow red after the long straights later on the vid when i brake harder n harder n heat builds up

 
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after free lunch we went for a run. was running outa fuel so had to pop out to refuel



after refuel i popped back onto the track for a blast with a full tank. the boost line had popped loose so lost gauge reading and BOV and fuel reg vacuum



secured the boost line and went out for a long run. was abit more adventurous and learnt trail braking & some scandanavien flick to help get the back out to turn tighter and was hilariously fun



in the end i pitted and saw some white smoke, i think the gaskets blown and coolant was blowing out, woops found the limit.

exhausted from all that intense driving we went out for 30mins karting :/ so much vibration n speed n grip, was loads fun but tiring. drove back home with a tired car running real low on coolant and oil.
time to fit the forged engine eh :)
 
the current grey micras original stock engine thats blown up used this gasket. i think when the original forged engine had blown it used the same soft graphitey gasket.

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the new remachined forged engine i'm gonna fit has been fitted with genuine nissan headgasket, never had a prob with these

DSC05583.JPG


in summary i conclude that the genuine headgasket has always been alot stronger & reliable than any cheaper 3rd party graphite/composite type.
 
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checked plugs. #1 is abit browner but piston top is slightly damp, think thats where is blown

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#2 abit lean but fine and cyl is dry n sooty

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#3 ok but piston top seems quite clean, carbon free? maybe hint of coolant had steam cleaned it?

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'4 same as #2

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drive around to heat up engine, i think the input shaft bearing is worn cos it makes a slight grind noise only when under load in-gear and silent when off-load or off-gear or clutch dropped.

drained all fluids

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little bits in gear oil

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yuk

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frank said:
#1 looks a bit oily paul, you sure its not a ringland gone ?
Click to expand...

maybe. #1 piston looked more oily and plug was darker.
when cold, exhaust is clear and coolant is ok but once warmed, the exhaust has a mist of smoky oil prob burning from #1 and coolant tank bubbles abit.

swapping engine anyway and check the damage later
 
been thinking, to improve front grip, and stiffen the sidewall flexing, been lookin into toyo r888s and found on ebay some ppl selling a pair or set of tyres from £50 to swap onto my front alloys,
or
a guys selling a 4 set of r888 with good tread and on 15"alloy from £200 which'll save convenience :)
its 4x100 pcd, dunno the ET or centre hole dia but could be sorted after

scaled.php
​
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyo-R888-Track-Day-Race-Tyres-195-50-15?item=160778393946&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo=LVI&itu=UCI&otn=3&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=7687163161060757177
 
guy replied that its 7j wide, i asked what the ET is.

the old 13" nissan alloy was 6j x et38 (hub to alloy lip 38.2mm)
the rota grids are 6.5j x et40 (hub to alloy lip 42.6mm)

so i need these 7j alloys to be et47-50
 
abit of a debate here.
guy on ebay hasn't replied bout the offset yet and it ends tomorrow 10am.

so dunno if i should:
1- bid on the 4set of r888 tyres with prob 3-4mm tread & alloys with unknown offset from £200-300.
if the offsets like et45 i could prob add more -ve camber.
if the offsets any less then maybe,

2- bid the 4set of tyre & alloys, swap the r888 onto my rota alloys £40 then sell the wrong alloys on ebay for prob £100?

3- bid on a used 4 set of r888 tyres 3-4mm tread from £50 and swap onto existing rota alloys for £40

4- bid on a used 4 set of r888 tyres 3-4mm tread from £50, buy spare set of alloys from £120 & fit for £40

5- buy 4 new 7mm sets of r888 for £475 and fit onto my rota alloys for £40
 
anyone know that if i won the bid, went down to pickup/test fit and it doesn't fit/stuck out too much, can i simply reject the item/return item upon collection and cancel the bid?
 
pollyp said:
anyone know that if i won the bid, went down to pickup/test fit and it doesn't fit/stuck out too much, can i simply reject the item/return item upon collection and cancel the bid?
Click to expand...
only if he mis-quoted eh paul, you should fit some of those formula ford 13,s i nick from work :)
 
frank said:
only if he mis-quoted eh paul, you should fit some of those formula ford 13,s i nick from work :)
Click to expand...

well they haven't quoted the offset in the listing. tried asking for the ET number several times now but they're either thick and not knowing what ET offset is, or trying not to tell me the ET?
just replied back if they don't know, then measure from the hub to the inside rim.

they just posted a pic of the hub, doesn't say much

scaled.php
 
the guy is out tonight and will measure it in the morning.

rang cousin and he thinks the bid price will certainly shoot up. if the ET is ok i'll keep to a sensible limit.
if i don't get it, he suggested i could always just get a new pair of:
Toyo R1R
Yoko AD08
Hankook RS2

any of em will be much better at the front than the soft t1r and for not as much cost as the r888.
 
Heard rs2 are very good but seems its not sold anymore.

Damn i was outbidded at £300, someone got a bargain there

Meh, i'll either wait for another cheap pair of r888 or buy new pair of r1r or ad08's, they're bout the same £78 price each
 
karlj said:
Seeing as you already have toyo's on why not just get the r1r?
Click to expand...

until the next trackday, i'd like to wait to see if someone sells at least a pair of r888 on 15"x6.5J alloys 4x100 with ET47-50 with least 4mm tread and below £300 as the best scenario. if non appears till then, i'll have to consider buying new r1r or ad08 and fit em on a used pair of alloys off ebay
 
ok brief damage report tday

the FR tyre looks ok, usual worn tread lip edges, wonder if i need more camber on track

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calipers off and the pad shims fall out, they've been cooked

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but OMG after 2 trackdays, these DB grooved discs have chewed through all of the pads:eek:

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they're almost obliterrated

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discs r fine, some normal evenly rippling

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but the FL loaded tyre, yikes! the outer half have been ripped right off:eek: compounds definately way too soft for the fronts and seriously needs more camber

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LH pads & discs are the same story. if they only last this far what are the chances of surviving the Ring plus driving to/from. i'll need to buy 2 sets of the pads

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cars gonna get expensive
 
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to lower the front tread peak temperatures to prevent shredding? aye though the front end def needs more grip, camber, less slipping = less heat.

maybe should go back to softer front coils and stiffen the rear ARB then fit front r888 (harder for treads to rip off)?

could also do with a manual brake bias to get the back out, prevent understeer when i plant deep on the brakes and have a more consistant bias
 
Talk to Skinner about bias control, as he has a mid mounted bias valve in his setup on the stock master cylinder IIRC. Not sure how effective the range of adjustment will be with GTI-R fronts, but I am sure he'll be able to fill you in. We have dual m/s sized specifically for the GTI-R fronts and disc rears with dash control, so it's a little different but having full control was something I considered to be a necessity on a track car to cater for all the different scenarios on the fly.

Tires tell you a LOT about what the car is doing that's for sure ;) Personally I can't stress enough on how much the rear end on the K11 needs to be worked on. Very few people here push the K11 that hard or have much in the way of case history relating to handling improvements.....for the majority it's form over function and mainly about getting that low look :rolleyes:

What setting do you run the rear ARB on now? One thing I was actually thinking of doing was to try a HD rear whiteline ARB and a standard front ARB, which may help to reduce some under steer but I realised i'd binned by OEM front ARB D'OH :oops:
 
Low Rider said:
Talk to Skinner about bias control, as he has a mid mounted bias valve in his setup on the stock master cylinder IIRC. Not sure how effective the range of adjustment will be with GTI-R fronts, but I am sure he'll be able to fill you in. We have dual m/s sized specifically for the GTI-R fronts and disc rears with dash control, so it's a little different but having full control was something I considered to be a necessity on a track car to cater for all the different scenarios on the fly.

Tires tell you a LOT about what the car is doing that's for sure ;) Personally I can't stress enough on how much the rear end on the K11 needs to be worked on. Very few people here push the K11 that hard or have much in the way of case history relating to handling improvements.....for the majority it's form over function and mainly about getting that low look :rolleyes:

What setting do you run the rear ARB on now? One thing I was actually thinking of doing was to try a HD rear whiteline ARB and a standard front ARB, which may help to reduce some under steer but I realised i'd binned by OEM front ARB D'OH :oops:
Click to expand...

will pm skinner ;) moving any amount of bias towards the back will help make use of the rear discs n balance.
yep i'd luv to have a brake bias knob on the dash for when on track.

my front tyres are def overloaded. have to remove the passenger side dumb bells i think cos most of the time i'm carrying a passenger and the extra LH weight is shredding the LH tyre.

rear arb set to full hard.
it does seem that when coasting through a corner, the rear 2 tyres are still touching the tarmac and have more grip and less load than the front 2 which are trying to turn but also alot more loaded by the weight of the engine bay, therefore it understeered.
only fix i found was either alot of trail braking or lift-off oversteer coupled with abit of flick, all of which would load up the front LH wheel for more grip and roll the body allowing the rear ARB to lift the inside RH wheel and 1/2 the rear grip so it oversteers towards the apex.
so prob needs a stiffer rear ARB?
 
wow paul so you did take it out just after we had a phone convo :) well hopefully this forged engine will be much more better :) hope it serves you well :D
 
sleeper_ss said:
Great stuff loved seeing the little Micra being hammered around the track..Sounds like your mates an adrenaline junkie too :D
Click to expand...

he was really enthusiastic more than me eh :D he usually rides a very quick sportsbike & chopper but twas the first time he sat in my car when pushes to the limit and was surprised :p
 
looking for a set of r888 already on 15" alloys and this one's interesting

scaled.php

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E30-B..._tyres_Rims_Car_Wheels_ET&hash=item256f8a3e5a

but the offsets too small, prefer ET40-47, centre bore will need machining from 57 to 59mm, tis a huge initial cost and at the other end of the world.
at £420 & petrol cost its bout £70+ per wheel. says treads at 3-4mm, believe they're 5mm new.
suppose i could get tyre shop to remove the 6 r888s off the BBS alloys, sell the 6 BBS alloys, buy correct size pair of alloys and fit the r888 on em. with 6 tyres, thats like 3 sets of r888s for the fronts.
 
just ordered 2 sets of BD FT pads but was sent the wrong pads for a honda civic

DSC06367.JPG


emailed em to swap to the correct pads
 
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pollyp said:
looking for a set of r888 already on 15" alloys and this one's interesting

scaled.php

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E30-B..._tyres_Rims_Car_Wheels_ET&hash=item256f8a3e5a

but the offsets too small, prefer ET40-47, centre bore will need machining from 57 to 59mm, tis a huge initial cost and at the other end of the world.
at £420 & petrol cost its bout £70+ per wheel. says treads at 3-4mm, believe they're 5mm new.
suppose i could get tyre shop to remove the 6 r888s off the BBS alloys, sell the 6 BBS alloys, buy correct size pair of alloys and fit the r888 on em. with 6 tyres, thats like 3 sets of r888s for the fronts.
Click to expand...

Semi slicks are all pretty expensive, I was just looking at the 195/50 usual suspects myself in the form of Yoko A048R, Silverstone FTZ, Federal FZ-201 & Toyo R888, (ordered in price order from high - low).

Toyo R888 seem to be very popular but I hear a lot of people complaining about the lack of sidewall stiffness on them and the fact that they don't last. Granted a lot of those reports are used on cars with significantly more curb weight, so the K11 may not be so severe.

People seem to pitch the Federal FZ-201's in favour of them for both longevity and having a stiffer sidewall but I suspect they will have some tradeoff in damp or wet conditions due to the tread pattern.

From a budget perspective Federal 595 RS-R look like they maybe worth a punt as an all rounder....
 
i'll look into those tyres.
Will only be using these set of tyres in the dry and on track so wet grip and comfort is not an issue.
Just need a set of fronts with more grip than the T1Rs in the back to cure the understeer, less sidewall flex and big tread blocks/semi slick that works at a higher temp that won't shred itself apart easy. The grippier front end may reduce the required steering lock so less scrubbing, less heat and less tread shredding.

cos the r888s so common i may be able to find a used set fitted on alloys for a nice sum, seem to fit the needs for now
 
seperated the gearbox

DSC06368.JPG


diaphram looks fine

DSC06369.JPG
DSC06370.JPG


light spattering of clutch dust on the bellhousing

DSC06371.JPG
DSC06372.JPG


light scoring on the release bearing collar from heavier PP

DSC06373.JPG
DSC06374.JPG


the flywheel side of the clutch. hmm seems the clutch isn't fully bedded in yet. looks like only 40% of the outer section and 10% of the inner section are touching so its only 50% effective.
hasn't slip at all during the track so it'll only get stronger as it beds in more :)

DSC06375.JPG
DSC06376.JPG
DSC06377.JPG
DSC06379.JPG


flywheel face showing only bits of the outer/inner sections are touching and the middle section still have machining marks

DSC06380.JPG
DSC06381.JPG


the PP side is abit better

DSC06382.JPG


almost all of the face are touching, bout 75% effective

DSC06383.JPG
DSC06384.JPG
DSC06385.JPG
DSC06386.JPG
 
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remove inlet manifold

DSC06388.JPG
DSC06389.JPG


the ptfe insulating spacer still intact, actually hardly affected, so will certainly handle the engine blocks heat on the track

DSC06396.JPG
DSC06397.JPG


pic of the PAS pulley

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DSC06391.JPG


remove coolant return pipe, o-ring will need replacing when i reuse it

DSC06393.JPG
DSC06394.JPG


removed sump. gonna source some rubber washers for the turbo drain sump plug so it doesn't leak past the nut/sump face.

DSC06395.JPG
 
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Low Rider said:
Semi slicks are all pretty expensive, I was just looking at the 195/50 usual suspects myself in the form of Yoko A048R, Silverstone FTZ, Federal FZ-201 & Toyo R888, (ordered in price order from high - low).

Toyo R888 seem to be very popular but I hear a lot of people complaining about the lack of sidewall stiffness on them and the fact that they don't last. Granted a lot of those reports are used on cars with significantly more curb weight, so the K11 may not be so severe.

People seem to pitch the Federal FZ-201's in favour of them for both longevity and having a stiffer sidewall but I suspect they will have some tradeoff in damp or wet conditions due to the tread pattern.

From a budget perspective Federal 595 RS-R look like they maybe worth a punt as an all rounder....
Click to expand...

just looked and youch
yokos least £157! each
FTZ from £138
FZ201 from £132
595rsr from £83 but tread blocks will prob shred like t1r?...hmm some reviews look ok
 
Great vid's Paul, love to see those discs glowing. I reckon your cousin definitely enjoyed him self!
 

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