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pollyp
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where u work/live? i work near the uni
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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
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where u work/live? i work near the uni
Live in guisborough, going to uni in middlesbrough next year
Safe to say I'll notice your car if i see it now!
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pollyp
Club Member
Live in guisborough, going to uni in middlesbrough next year
Safe to say I'll notice your car if i see it now!
and hear
Also a valid pointand hear
suprised I haven't allready...its pretty unmissable!
...bit of a derail gone on here, sorry
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pollyp
Club Member
pads sometimes have a slight screach at 1mph so take the pads out
the inner RH pad has an odd shiny area
stuck the provided shim on
the LH pads have the odd patch on both pads
its quieter now n only happens in rare occasions
low rider i measured these gaps to compare with urs
baquete talked to me bout my dizzy position for using my turbo map on his setup.
i forced 15deg timing in datascan, idle goes upto 1100rpm, the pulley is at 0deg TDC so the dizzy was maybe -15deg too retarded before the remap?
back to normal 850rpm, the consult says -5deg, the pulley says +10deg, so the real ign timing at idle here is um -5deg?
maybe the different rev's affecting the result so i shoulda lowered the rev to 750 on both occasions before measuring the pulley timing.
hmm makes sense since the response time of the ign system is fixed, the crank rpm will affect the position of the pulley once that strobe flashes
the inner RH pad has an odd shiny area
stuck the provided shim on
the LH pads have the odd patch on both pads
its quieter now n only happens in rare occasions
low rider i measured these gaps to compare with urs
baquete talked to me bout my dizzy position for using my turbo map on his setup.
i forced 15deg timing in datascan, idle goes upto 1100rpm, the pulley is at 0deg TDC so the dizzy was maybe -15deg too retarded before the remap?
back to normal 850rpm, the consult says -5deg, the pulley says +10deg, so the real ign timing at idle here is um -5deg?
maybe the different rev's affecting the result so i shoulda lowered the rev to 750 on both occasions before measuring the pulley timing.
hmm makes sense since the response time of the ign system is fixed, the crank rpm will affect the position of the pulley once that strobe flashes
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baguete
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woopsy time to upgrade to these eh
now its black diamond grooved discs with black diamond FT predator pads
Seems that i will have to buy some of those.
baquete talked to me bout my dizzy position for using my turbo map on his setup.
i forced 15deg timing in datascan, idle goes upto 1100rpm, the pulley is at 0deg TDC so the dizzy was maybe -15deg too retarded before the remap?
back to normal 850rpm, the consult says -5deg, the pulley says +10deg, so the real ign timing at idle here is um -5deg?
maybe the different rev's affecting the result so i shoulda lowered the rev to 750 on both occasions before measuring the pulley timing.
hmm makes sense since the response time of the ign system is fixed, the crank rpm will affect the position of the pulley once that strobe flashes
If you force it to be at 15º, that means on the whole map or just for base timing? But by the looks of your dizzy i would say that is very retarded and 0º is possible...
baguete
Site Supporter
mine,s set at 10 deg btdc paul, but i could,nt hear any det at 15 deg either (but i set it back to 10 just incase
The "problem" is that Paul's dizzy was retarded when the map was done, then the whole ignition map was set to that base timing (more ignition advance to compensate). I can either pull the dizzy back or change the whole map to less 15deg...
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pollyp
Club Member
it forces it at 15deg when TP closed no matter what the idle speed is.
yea. but to be sure i'll recheck it tomorrow at same rpm for consistancy
baguete
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pollyp
Club Member
ok just refuelled (my local shells been milked dry and ended up going to the nearest motorway service shell)
i've been running an idle of 850rpm for awhile, prob to reduce vibrations at 750rpm and prevent stalling under PAS load, which makes the timing at 850rpm become 5-7deg.
so i reduced idle down to stock 750rpm the consult timing goes up to 15deg.
i force 15deg via datascan, the strobe reads 2deg, the dizzy is 13deg offset retarded.
turn off active test and consult reading stays at 15deg, again pulley reading 2deg.
so there u go baguete, my dizzy is bout 13-14deg too much retarded
i've been running an idle of 850rpm for awhile, prob to reduce vibrations at 750rpm and prevent stalling under PAS load, which makes the timing at 850rpm become 5-7deg.
so i reduced idle down to stock 750rpm the consult timing goes up to 15deg.
i force 15deg via datascan, the strobe reads 2deg, the dizzy is 13deg offset retarded.
turn off active test and consult reading stays at 15deg, again pulley reading 2deg.
so there u go baguete, my dizzy is bout 13-14deg too much retarded
baguete
Site Supporter
Ah, thank you one more time.
I think i will aim for 15º total retard on the dizzy because i will run it with RON95, even with a lower CR using a thicker metal HG (1,75mm) i should reduce the chance of detonation.
frank
Club Member
here,s mine http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=5khs39&s=5 superunleaded/1.3 pistons/2 headgaskets
http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=5khs39&s=5 superunleaded/1.3 pistons/2 headgaskets
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pollyp
Club Member
Ah, thank you one more time.
I think i will aim for 15º total retard on the dizzy because i will run it with RON95, even with a lower CR using a thicker metal HG (1,75mm) i should reduce the chance of detonation.
aye. think on weekend i'll try advancing the whole timing map 14deg then line up the dizzy proper.
yep frank, 15deg idle
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pollyp
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ok i'm having abit of a confusion tday. at 750rpm idle the strobe readings suggests that the plugs are firing at 2deg BTDC? maybe i should instead rev above idle (where the timing matters cos idle timing might be misleading?), then compare the nistune consult timing with strobe?
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pollyp
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i'm not sure. i'm guessing with the dizzy in wrong position that ed wasn't aware of, he used the normal 15deg idle timing but the mapping above idle is correct to prevent detonation, max power & efficiency. hence i'm thinking rev above idle to find out for sure that ed's map is advancing timing more than usual to compensate for the 14deg retarded dizzy.
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pollyp
Club Member
woulda thought at idle it should run the same as stock cos the c/r, airflow and other parameters would be similar, its just using different maf sensor and fuel system
like when i uploaded the stock 1.3 map & aligned the dizzy position, it idles and responds to pas exactly the same as stock
like when i uploaded the stock 1.3 map & aligned the dizzy position, it idles and responds to pas exactly the same as stock
frank
Club Member
but if the map peramiters only extend to (for instance) 45 deg btdc, and you need 55 deg, you can shift the base idle to achieve the 55 deg eh (and lose 10 deg at the bottom end obviously)
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pollyp
Club Member
the fact is the dizzy is 14deg retarded outa position, the whole map needs retarding 14deg so the dizzy can be advanced into the correct position. normal driving the current timing would reach 48deg max (34deg corrected), full boost & rev its at 30deg (16deg corrected) and there's enough room to retard it all by 14deg.
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pollyp
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ok i warmed up the engine, hooked up nistune to check the consult timing, hold rev above idle say 1500rpm where the timing chart and consult says 40deg, check pulley with strobe and its round bout 27-30deg.
so thats verified then,
the dizzy is certainly 13-14deg retarded.
when tps is detected closed, it idles at 750rpm, timing is running unusually at 2deg (consult says 15deg yet the timing map at the idle region is 20deg?)
when the IAV is briefly open for fast idle (after blipping or when in-gear above 5mph) or when idle is set too fast like 850rpm the timing is at -8deg btdc (consult says 5deg)
changed the engine oil & filter.
also checking the gearbox oil level to see if i lost much from the leak. took the pinion out, stuck a screwdriver down the hole to measure but couldn't see the level from the clear oil, so decided to grab the oil stick, took a reading and hmm the level is where the max point of the dipstick is, look in haynes which says the level should be 28-38mm, measured the stick and max level is 38mm!
oh wow u can actually use the oil dipstick to measure the gearbox oil level too, fascinating that shoulda been written in haynes
so thats verified then,
the dizzy is certainly 13-14deg retarded.
when tps is detected closed, it idles at 750rpm, timing is running unusually at 2deg (consult says 15deg yet the timing map at the idle region is 20deg?)
when the IAV is briefly open for fast idle (after blipping or when in-gear above 5mph) or when idle is set too fast like 850rpm the timing is at -8deg btdc (consult says 5deg)
changed the engine oil & filter.
also checking the gearbox oil level to see if i lost much from the leak. took the pinion out, stuck a screwdriver down the hole to measure but couldn't see the level from the clear oil, so decided to grab the oil stick, took a reading and hmm the level is where the max point of the dipstick is, look in haynes which says the level should be 28-38mm, measured the stick and max level is 38mm!
oh wow u can actually use the oil dipstick to measure the gearbox oil level too, fascinating
that shoulda been written in haynes
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pollyp
Club Member
tday i played with the timing.
this is the current ign map in raw & filtered values
looking at the map view while i alter the raw values i found that values:
0-63 = 0 to 63deg btdc
64-128 = -64 to 0deg btdc
128-191 = 0 to 63deg btdc
192-255 = -64 to -1 btdc
the dizzy is 14deg retarded so need to lower the whole map by 14deg
i can't decrease the whole map cos the cells at 600rpm/100% are already near zero. so i'll have to go up by 128 to get into the next +ve region
now i can lower it all by 14deg to offset the dizzy
the idle timing needed increasing back to 15deg
so i uploaded the new map, advance the dizzy till the consult 15deg matches the strobes 15deg, lower the idle back down to 750rpm and she idles at 15deg.
i blip the throttle but seems really sluggish above idle. check the consult and even though the filtered values and the timing value in the map view says it should be +ve 21deg at 1200rpm etc the consult display & strobe shows its actually running the opposite -ve 21deg etc hence no power
ffs, i'll leave it back to previous setup for now
this is the current ign map in raw & filtered values
looking at the map view while i alter the raw values i found that values:
0-63 = 0 to 63deg btdc
64-128 = -64 to 0deg btdc
128-191 = 0 to 63deg btdc
192-255 = -64 to -1 btdc
the dizzy is 14deg retarded so need to lower the whole map by 14deg
i can't decrease the whole map cos the cells at 600rpm/100% are already near zero. so i'll have to go up by 128 to get into the next +ve region
now i can lower it all by 14deg to offset the dizzy
the idle timing needed increasing back to 15deg
so i uploaded the new map, advance the dizzy till the consult 15deg matches the strobes 15deg, lower the idle back down to 750rpm and she idles at 15deg.
i blip the throttle but seems really sluggish above idle. check the consult and even though the filtered values and the timing value in the map view says it should be +ve 21deg at 1200rpm etc the consult display & strobe shows its actually running the opposite -ve 21deg etc hence no power
ffs, i'll leave it back to previous setup for now
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pollyp
Club Member
lol paul
got plenty of datalog runs of the current running. i'm just trying to find how i can retard the whole ign map by 14deg so i can advance this dizzy.
been reading this forum bout tuning nissan ecu EPROMs, interesting read.
http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/ecu-tuning-section/111321-long-tutorial-tuning-nissans-ecus.html
i think it seems that the 128-191 raw values region is the retarding knock timing values. needs more reseach & playing around
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pollyp
Club Member
i've also tested another suspension cam angle
this ones a cold start (cold crank idle-up is abit odd after clearing the self-learn yesterday, having to blip it abit to get it going) with dampers at full soft.
camera exposure +1 and mic volume lo
this ones with the dampers at full hard and bouncy. camera exposure +1 and mic volume medium
this ones a cold start (cold crank idle-up is abit odd after clearing the self-learn yesterday, having to blip it abit to get it going) with dampers at full soft.
camera exposure +1 and mic volume lo
this ones with the dampers at full hard and bouncy. camera exposure +1 and mic volume medium
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pollyp
Club Member
hmm when lowering the whole timing map from where it is currently, my first thought was that the low rpm/high load region would begin zero'ing out as it hit the lower limits, but actually that doesn't matter cos it'll never reach those areas anyway. so tomorrows plan of action is to simply lower the whole map 14deg from where it is at the mo, advance the dizzy and try it out.
baguete
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pollyp
Club Member
ok uploaded the above timing map, advanced dizzy 14deg & adjust idle rpm till the consult & strobe matches, cleared self-learn, rev up & check strobe and the timing matches.
i set the idle timing at 15deg on the map, consult confirms but the afr is 13. i lowered idle timing back to 7deg like what it was before and the afr goes back to 14.7
when in neutral and tps is closed, the timing runs on like a seperate map cos it goes to 15deg and afr 14.7
its only when in gear and tps closed that she runs at 7deg idle timing i set in the map
at idle i notice the exhaust would occasionally faintly hiccup/misfire/pop since i cleared the self-learn
figured i could mount the cam here under the bumper and tested few angles
alot of windnoise from the exposed mic so cut a wooly winter sock to put over the mic
set mic to low volume and the sound is much better
i set the idle timing at 15deg on the map, consult confirms but the afr is 13. i lowered idle timing back to 7deg like what it was before and the afr goes back to 14.7
when in neutral and tps is closed, the timing runs on like a seperate map cos it goes to 15deg and afr 14.7
its only when in gear and tps closed that she runs at 7deg idle timing i set in the map
at idle i notice the exhaust would occasionally faintly hiccup/misfire/pop since i cleared the self-learn
figured i could mount the cam here under the bumper and tested few angles
alot of windnoise from the exposed mic so cut a wooly winter sock to put over the mic
set mic to low volume and the sound is much better
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pollyp
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just measured the crack on the old discs.
its at least 0.75mm deep, groove slots on that side is 1mm, disc thickness is 25.34mm
even if one side of the disc was machined down to eliminate the crack it would still be least 24.34mm
min thickness is 23.9mm so only 0.45mm of usable metal left
so i think these old discs are scrap and prob not worth risking selling on
i didn't like the whiteness of my helmet especially if i wear it on the road and stick out like a sore thumb. so sanded it down
didn't have much acrylic matt black but got black vinyl paint, that'll do. light dusting first
then thicker complete coat
dried and looks the biz
its at least 0.75mm deep, groove slots on that side is 1mm, disc thickness is 25.34mm
even if one side of the disc was machined down to eliminate the crack it would still be least 24.34mm
min thickness is 23.9mm so only 0.45mm of usable metal left
so i think these old discs are scrap and prob not worth risking selling on
i didn't like the whiteness of my helmet especially if i wear it on the road and stick out like a sore thumb. so sanded it down
didn't have much acrylic matt black but got black vinyl paint, that'll do. light dusting first
then thicker complete coat
dried and looks the biz
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pollyp
Club Member
i trimmed back the edge of the sunroof to try clear my helmet
although kinda forgot the sliding cover uses the track, there's just enough lip left to slide on
had a set of BPR6ES, same temp range that i'm using, see if i can use them
the head is the same
but the hex is 21mm compared to 16mm for the micra
so tried to file it down 2.5mm each side
but not enough metal there so i'll need to buy a new set instead, meh
although kinda forgot the sliding cover uses the track, there's just enough lip left to slide on
had a set of BPR6ES, same temp range that i'm using, see if i can use them
the head is the same
but the hex is 21mm compared to 16mm for the micra
so tried to file it down 2.5mm each side
but not enough metal there so i'll need to buy a new set instead, meh
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pollyp
Club Member
this morning i tried to coldstart her without touching the throttle, she could sustain idle and stopped. repeateded cranking at wot just flooded her
took plugs out and cyl were all flooded wet. purged n tried again.
again struggles to cold crank and had to help the throttle abit to get her going n clear the throat. once its cleared n warmed she's fine.
cold cranking map needs altering. recorded the telemetry so will assess whats happening.
the drive to work with a sock mic muffler. there's an annoying rattle that needs securing, prob the cam balljoint screw handle thats flapping about.
took plugs out and cyl were all flooded wet. purged n tried again.
again struggles to cold crank and had to help the throttle abit to get her going n clear the throat. once its cleared n warmed she's fine.
cold cranking map needs altering. recorded the telemetry so will assess whats happening.
the drive to work with a sock mic muffler. there's an annoying rattle that needs securing, prob the cam balljoint screw handle thats flapping about.
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pollyp
Club Member
just had a look at the telemetry and this morning with a cold 11C engine when i cranked her the injector was sending 38-40+ milisec of fuel!! no matter if throttle was closed or WOT no wonder it was struggling to struggling to fire and flooding easily.
when warm starting, injectors only fired 4milisec max
will upload video soon
definately have a close look at this cold crank map and past cold crank videos
no wonder it was struggling to struggling to fire and flooding easily.when warm starting, injectors only fired 4milisec max
will upload video soon
definately have a close look at this cold crank map and past cold crank videos
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pollyp
Club Member
just went over to see costa tday and fix his super s. dizzy cap was full of oxide, dead o2 sensor replaced, seized gear linkage bush greased, TB waxstat removed, tps & IAV configured and changed oil. tried fitting new oil filter but got stuck halfway so either its a duff batch or its the wrong thread pitch, old filter back on.
should hopefully resolve the very poor mpg.
i'm well tired now
should hopefully resolve the very poor mpg.
i'm well tired now
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pollyp
Club Member
How's your new LSD holding up Paul? I'm keen to know how it behaves/compares in comparison to the original build spec
I just send a mail to gripper requesting some information /answers on the supplied standard K11 setups.
heya works like a charm now.
the preload is quite low which is street friendly. jacking one wheel up n it turns with some resistance so preload ring is still working. the mid-corner lift sudden release has gone and so LSD engagement is much much smoother now with such low preload.
launch traction is as usual gr8 when the torque locks up the diff enough
