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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
frank
Club Member
then you have my sympathy paul :laugh: (been there, done that)
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pollyp
Club Member
cleaning this engine at such level throughout holidays was labourious enough, wouldn't like to do it regularly after work hours
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pollyp
Club Member
Aww that's a shame lol, hats off to you for doing it though
Antony
Ex. Club Member
if you want to make it look brand new, go onto frost auto restoration, look up "metal plating" paint.... spray that on. it will look like brand new polished aluminium...
did it to mine, sold it to K6PFS and is currently sat in a barn somewhere in derbyshire..lol:grinning:
did it to mine, sold it to K6PFS and is currently sat in a barn somewhere in derbyshire..lol:grinning:
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pollyp
Club Member
think i got some high temp silver paint here. just gonna wirebrush, spray silver and laquer
i think its time to buy a new wideband sensor but dunno if i should get from somewhere in europe for £54 with unknown import tax
http://www.jtperformance.eu/index.aspx?pageid=455896&prodid=1628345¤cy=GBP
or from cheshire for £64 (they have two types of bosch lsu4.2's, 7057 or 7206. dunno which ones for an LM-1 but it says 7057 is usually for Innovates)
http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?categoryID=82
i think its time to buy a new wideband sensor but dunno if i should get from somewhere in europe for £54 with unknown import tax
http://www.jtperformance.eu/index.aspx?pageid=455896&prodid=1628345¤cy=GBP
or from cheshire for £64 (they have two types of bosch lsu4.2's, 7057 or 7206. dunno which ones for an LM-1 but it says 7057 is usually for Innovates)
http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?categoryID=82
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pollyp
Club Member
You shouldn't have to worry about import tax when importing something from within EU.
Ah brill thx m8
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pollyp
Club Member
cousin mentioned they were going to oulton park in early march, we planned to test fit some civic rads near end of feb. but i was thinking last night that payin over £200 for the trackday and using this glazed clutch is not gonna work so maybe i'll need to consider pushing me schedule up abit. fit the forged engine (parents on holiday so no one here to help with crane n lifting) , get LSD rebuilt, find & fit a cheaper full thickness radiator, fit oil cooler, get a one-piece IC piping made, break-in new engine & LSD all before march:suspect:
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pollyp
Club Member
hey i found this website says the k11 automatics have a thicker 33mm radiator core compared to the 17mm manual radiators. is that true?
http://www.radicool.co.uk/nissan/micra.htm
it has additional ports for cooling the auto gearbox. so its a twin core rad but how is the internal fins plumbed?
is it where the front core just cools the engine while the rear core cools the gearbox? performing the same as a single core rad?
or does the engine coolant flows through one face section of the twin core while the gearbox oil flows through the other section?
or could the engine coolant flow through the entire twin core and perform twice as good as a standard rad? (if so this might be the cheapest easier option)
http://www.radicool.co.uk/nissan/micra.htm
it has additional ports for cooling the auto gearbox. so its a twin core rad but how is the internal fins plumbed?
is it where the front core just cools the engine while the rear core cools the gearbox? performing the same as a single core rad?
or does the engine coolant flows through one face section of the twin core while the gearbox oil flows through the other section?
or could the engine coolant flow through the entire twin core and perform twice as good as a standard rad? (if so this might be the cheapest easier option)
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pollyp
Club Member
i think its mistyped as nissan cg13de?
found the auto rad # 21460-97B00 for £45
http://www.vauxhallcarpartsuk.co.uk...m_medium=base&utm_campaign=Make-Model-Product
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pollyp
Club Member
googled nissens cg13de rads and its the same automatics radiator part #
superls
K10 Tuner
someone on here had Ed (i think) fit an almera red, needed a custom bonnet support thing, but iirc you have bonnet pins dont you?
it was a almera rad, 1 pipe was the same and 1 needed to be longer, and a custom mount, nothing you cant handle im sure he was selling it a while ago not sure it he did tho
it was a almera rad, 1 pipe was the same and 1 needed to be longer, and a custom mount, nothing you cant handle im sure
he was selling it a while ago not sure it he did tho
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pollyp
Club Member
pressure switch arrived tday but its bigger than i thought.
the threads 1/4" whereas the hosetail adapter i have is 1/8".
the company has a 1/8" pressure switch but no price
to save the hassle of sendin it back maybe i should try look for a 1/4" adapter into a 3/16 (5mm) hosetail end to fit onto the boost lines.
the auto radiator, should i buy n try it? unless someone could confirm how the aux oil cooler is configured inside or if the radiator just performs the same level as a normal single core one?
the threads 1/4" whereas the hosetail adapter i have is 1/8".
the company has a 1/8" pressure switch but no price
to save the hassle of sendin it back maybe i should try look for a 1/4" adapter into a 3/16 (5mm) hosetail end to fit onto the boost lines.
the auto radiator, should i buy n try it? unless someone could confirm how the aux oil cooler is configured inside or if the radiator just performs the same level as a normal single core one?
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pollyp
Club Member
ah found a 1/4 female to 1/8 male reducer
http://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/1-4-Female-to-1-8th-Male-Reducer.html
bah minimum £5 order
so found another on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8-NPT-M...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item483ffbac73
http://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/1-4-Female-to-1-8th-Male-Reducer.html
bah minimum £5 order
so found another on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8-NPT-M...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item483ffbac73
frank
Club Member
here,s a heat transfer pipe from the bottom of a rad paul (just a tube in a tube jacket basicly)
and cant you fit an auxilary heater matrix in the front somewhere ?
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=aag68p&s=5
and are you trying to achieve some sort of adjustable boost control ? or are you trying to stabilise the boost you have ? (coz mine shoots to 7psi and sticks like glue, no matter how much throttle or rpm)
and cant you fit an auxilary heater matrix in the front somewhere ?
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=aag68p&s=5
and are you trying to achieve some sort of adjustable boost control ? or are you trying to stabilise the boost you have ? (coz mine shoots to 7psi and sticks like glue, no matter how much throttle or rpm)
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pollyp
Club Member
thx v much frank
is that all it is, a short tube?:grinning: well grand news then. guess the k11 had a twin core rad available after all. gonna buy
with the pressure switch, boost solenoid n WOT switch i'm trying to acheive the fastest spool up time when i need it most by eliminating any wastegate creep until 10psi, rather than let the WG start to creep at 5psi n slowwwwly reach 10psi.
urs is a smaller turbo ain't it so a lower boost threshold point & quicker spool up?
frank
Club Member
ahh, yes mine,s a GT15 eh, heres how tight the exh gasses are squeezed to
(i cant even get my little finger in it lol) but mine is very very stable atm fwnooh uploading attachments is working again :grinning: (praps xmas theme related)
Attachments
frank
Club Member
aye, a bit of a revelation having some boost control lol :wasntme: its a bit of a pussycat @ 7psi tho fwn, i much prefered the spawn of the devil :grinning:
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pollyp
Club Member
guy from rad place rang to say that he doesn't have the nissen rad #629871 but already requested warehouse to send what he thought was a similar rad made by valeo #732718 to minimise delay.
i specified that it had to be between 20-33mm or big as possible so he'll go check.
rang back later and the valeo rad to be sent was 21mm whereas the nissen rad is 28mm but he'd have to order one from denmark for extra £16, fine.
he cancelled the valeo rad and ordered the nissens rad.
driving back home going 70 in fast lane, there was some lady 4x4 trailing a horse in the central crossing just stopped to join my side 5sec away. i thought surely they'd see me coming and stay put till i pass. saw the wheels begin to move and to my shock began to pull out! in front of me! WTFFFFFF:suspect:grr
Beeeeeeeeeeep! Brake! ABS stutters, steer left into slowlane to avoid:doh: feel i could never brake hard enough during a startle panic. thought she'd hear me coming on her left and stay on her right but NOOO
5m away the flippin idiot continued to move left on the slowlane as if i wasn't there:wow: quick decision i had to resort to the tiny sliproad left to avoid collision and pass the muthaF.
why these fuppin gr#######s allowed to drive!!grrgrrgrr
i never usually use my horn before till i beeped it to death tday, guess i lost me horn virginity now:laugh:
went to scrappy and grabbed a solenoid from a volvo v70 estate. coulda just walked out but my mushy weak brain had to ask the guy in corner how much? tenna. ok..bahh wtf stfu brain:doh: aw well
i specified that it had to be between 20-33mm or big as possible so he'll go check.
rang back later and the valeo rad to be sent was 21mm whereas the nissen rad is 28mm but he'd have to order one from denmark for extra £16, fine.
he cancelled the valeo rad and ordered the nissens rad.
driving back home going 70 in fast lane, there was some lady 4x4 trailing a horse in the central crossing just stopped to join my side 5sec away. i thought surely they'd see me coming and stay put till i pass. saw the wheels begin to move and to my shock began to pull out! in front of me! WTFFFFFF:suspect:grr
Beeeeeeeeeeep! Brake! ABS stutters, steer left into slowlane to avoid:doh: feel i could never brake hard enough during a startle panic. thought she'd hear me coming on her left and stay on her right but NOOO
5m away the flippin idiot continued to move left on the slowlane as if i wasn't there:wow: quick decision i had to resort to the tiny sliproad left to avoid collision and pass the muthaF.
why these fuppin gr#######s allowed to drive!!grrgrrgrr
i never usually use my horn before till i beeped it to death tday, guess i lost me horn virginity now:laugh:
went to scrappy and grabbed a solenoid from a volvo v70 estate. coulda just walked out but my mushy weak brain had to ask the guy in corner how much? tenna. ok..bahh wtf stfu brain:doh: aw well
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pollyp
Club Member
long as u haven't just left the box hanging while its partially inserted into the clutch disc before touching the guide pins, ur ok
roughly wired up to a switch i got from a broken mains timer. just need a t-pipe n hook it up to test it works tomorrow
once the 1/4" adapter comes i could then test the pressure switch
roughly wired up to a switch i got from a broken mains timer. just need a t-pipe n hook it up to test it works tomorrow
once the 1/4" adapter comes i could then test the pressure switch
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pollyp
Club Member
just figured i could hook it up like this
when off, the boost source is connected to the actuator, vent is shut.
when on, the boost source is shut and the actuator is connected to vent, allowing the WG to spring shut on its own as oppose to noramlly relying on when the boost pressure drops to zero
if the ports from boost source to the actuator is flowing too restrictive when its off and causes some spiking, i'll just connect a t-pipe between the boost source & actuator then the t-pipe to this port which is less restrictive when turned on
when off, the boost source is connected to the actuator, vent is shut.
when on, the boost source is shut and the actuator is connected to vent, allowing the WG to spring shut on its own as oppose to noramlly relying on when the boost pressure drops to zero
if the ports from boost source to the actuator is flowing too restrictive when its off and causes some spiking, i'll just connect a t-pipe between the boost source & actuator then the t-pipe to this port which is less restrictive when turned on
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