-
Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum
PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
fitted the solenoid and hooked upto battery
took to motorway,
solenoid off, 4th gear at 3k & WOT, the boost slowly builds at usual pace at stays at 10psi without spiking.
solenoid on, 3k & WOT, the boost builds slowly at usual pace from 0 - 8psi then maybe unnoticably quicker past 10psi and then as usual rises faster as rev builds until i turn off and it drops back down to 10psi.
at WOT 10psi, i flicker the switch on & off, the boost builds and drops back to 10psi in sync.
at less than 9psi, flickering the switch does nothing.
its like there's barely enough exhaust energy to power the turbo at 10psi so WG creeping is minimal
maybe the WG actually stays shut until near 9psi therefore trying to keep the actuator shut in hoping to reduce WG creep and speed up spool time is negligable at such low boost.
10psi is like barely touching the capacity of what the turbo can do, basically the turbo's too big for such low boost and the weak actuator spring is limiting it to its boost threshold point hence slow spool up.
so either increase the boost pressure after fitting the forged engine to fully utilise the turbo's potential or fit a smaller turbo with harder actuator spring to reach the same 10psi, utilising more of its capacity, lowering boost threshold and speed up spool response?
took to motorway,
solenoid off, 4th gear at 3k & WOT, the boost slowly builds at usual pace at stays at 10psi without spiking.
solenoid on, 3k & WOT, the boost builds slowly at usual pace from 0 - 8psi then maybe unnoticably quicker past 10psi and then as usual rises faster as rev builds until i turn off and it drops back down to 10psi.
at WOT 10psi, i flicker the switch on & off, the boost builds and drops back to 10psi in sync.
at less than 9psi, flickering the switch does nothing.
its like there's barely enough exhaust energy to power the turbo at 10psi so WG creeping is minimal
maybe the WG actually stays shut until near 9psi therefore trying to keep the actuator shut in hoping to reduce WG creep and speed up spool time is negligable at such low boost.
10psi is like barely touching the capacity of what the turbo can do, basically the turbo's too big for such low boost and the weak actuator spring is limiting it to its boost threshold point hence slow spool up.
so either increase the boost pressure after fitting the forged engine to fully utilise the turbo's potential or fit a smaller turbo with harder actuator spring to reach the same 10psi, utilising more of its capacity, lowering boost threshold and speed up spool response?
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
let me do some boost gauge vids @ 1/2 throttle and wot before you make any decisions paul ? (i just need to refine this rrprv firsti,ve got 20psi and 40psi atm, but its still lean @ wot :doh
i'll most prob be raising the boost & remap with the new engine rather than invest & fit another turbo. will be good to compare spool responses.
40psi!?
i tried the second option
but this doesn't work well.
valve shut, all the pressure reaches the actuator and it boosts as normal.
valve open, with equal size hoses in either direction the boost pressure is split down both lines like its a bleed valve so some pressure still reaches the actuator opening the WG wide enough till the boost balances out at 12psi
another thing that could affect the response is the manifold joint crack thats all along the RH weld, could hear it hiss at 10psi, needs welding up asap
frank
Club Member
thats fuel pressure paul :grinning: not boost lol
20 psi @ idle and 40psi when there,s no vacuum in the mani (using that austin mini vacuum advance mech)
looks like i,m gonna need 3 x fuel pressure @ wot compared to idle
i can see why many proper rrfpr/fmu are 6:1 ratio !
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
thats fuel pressure paul :grinning: not boost lol
20 psi @ idle and 40psi when there,s no vacuum in the mani (using that austin mini vacuum advance mech)
looks like i,m gonna need 3 x fuel pressure @ wot compared to idle
was gonna say, block woulda gone boom if boost was that high :laugh:
still stock ecu map?
solarice
Ex. Club Member
Yeah you'll be losing a bit with the manifold leak, slow spool does seem to be the best excuse to up the boost and make more power on the new engine lol.
frank : what about a 5th injector, activated on boost...like a constant spray instead of pulsed? Not sure how much it'd effect the overall rail pressure though.
frank : what about a 5th injector, activated on boost...like a constant spray instead of pulsed? Not sure how much it'd effect the overall rail pressure though.
frank
Club Member
michael from holland ran a 5th injector for 2 yrs iirc eh kris, but i,m trying to keep it mega simple tbh, this reg is fueling really nice @ idle to 1/3rd throttle, but wot is megga lean still
might need to resort to fitting the VAFC and yes paul
Attachments
solarice
Ex. Club Member
michael from holland ran a 5th injector for 2 yrs iirc eh kris, but i,m trying to keep it mega simple tbh, this reg is fueling really nice @ idle to 1/3rd throttle, but wot is megga lean still
Yeah i can remember a few people using 5th's. I know mine needs a good bit high up iirc something like 20% extra (emanages additional injection rate on the 1.6's), thats still a bit too rich really as the maf seems to be going off the chart at about 5.5k.
A fuel computer may be the easiest way to keep it as simple as possible.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
Yeah you'll be losing a bit with the manifold leak, slow spool does seem to be the best excuse to up the boost and make more power on the new engine lol.
frank : what about a 5th injector, activated on boost...like a constant spray instead of pulsed? Not sure how much it'd effect the overall rail pressure though.
but dunno how high i could increase boost to safely when it involves long WOT periods (especially the long straights at nurburgring) and maybe sudden launches (santapod?) before one of the stock components breaks (HG, conrods, 1.3 gearbox, driveshafts, cooling?) or it begins to detonate if the compressions not low enough?
anyone recall how much torque & HP the stock 1.3 parts i mentioned could take before obliteration? i think someone from greece had turbo'ed upto 200bhp till his driveshaft went?
frank
Club Member
jim gr munched his g/box then fitted a par gearset, then munched a driveshaft iirc paul, and i bet he has 230+hp.
our cranks and rods are forged already, so i guess the stock pistons are the weakest link :wasntme:
solarice
Ex. Club Member
Not sure anyone will know to be honest...head gaskets have gone at low boost, stanni? (sorry if not you mate haha) killed a piston, and yeah the driveshaft twisted itself free. First two were all lean fueling related iirc...
peposhi
Once I win the Euromillions...
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
since i bypassed the TB coolant line i thought rather than bypass it with a tube, just shut it from the source. so to eliminate those pipes i won't be needing this port
so inject some sealant into the tube, not too much that it peaks into the main tube n cause an obstruction, then crimp the end in a vice
same with the other port
fit return pipe
freshened this pipe too
so inject some sealant into the tube, not too much that it peaks into the main tube n cause an obstruction, then crimp the end in a vice
same with the other port
fit return pipe
freshened this pipe too
Last edited:
solarice
Ex. Club Member
should prob keep within 200bhp then
AFR are fine, stronger pistons, and if the box or driveshafts break i have a spare and then lower the boost a tad
Sounds like a plan lol.
frank
Club Member
let me do some boost gauge vids @ 1/2 throttle and wot before you make any decisions paul ? (i just need to refine this rrprv first
wet road again i,m afraid paul, but http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBlRV355RgM&feature=youtu.be
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
eey thats near instantaneous boost:grinning:
just thinking there's lota difference in "spool from rest" time between WOT at my 3k threshold point and WOT near the limiter.
when i ask for max boost at 3k it takes like 1.5s to respond.
from higher revs it takes bout 1/2s
just thinking there's lota difference in "spool from rest" time between WOT at my 3k threshold point and WOT near the limiter.
when i ask for max boost at 3k it takes like 1.5s to respond.
from higher revs it takes bout 1/2s
frank
Club Member
pretty good response eh paul
if you pause the vid and wind it back to zero, it shows 0 psi and 2k rpm eh
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
was that first rev with clutch down or 1st gear launch/wheelspin? from dead rest it takes a moment to spool from zero to max boost as the revs accelerate (unless the turbo is pre-spooled before launch? ie, blip or hold revs near limiter to induce enough gas energy?) but once its going, when the throttles reapplied quickly after upshift, the turbos inertia keeps the respool time to a minimum.
how do ppl launch their turbos on the strip?
hold mid-rev, drop clutch & WOT?
or just rev to the limiter till the turbo's spooled up n drop clutch? (can't imagine its good for the clutch)
how do ppl launch their turbos on the strip?
hold mid-rev, drop clutch & WOT?
or just rev to the limiter till the turbo's spooled up n drop clutch? (can't imagine its good for the clutch)
frank
Club Member
yes 1st gear rolling start paul, here,s one in the dry and you can see it spool up from slightly before 2k (about 6 secs in)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQ_5H9G4siE&feature=youtu.be
which is why the GT15 with high comp is an ideal tubby for a daily imo
i doubt if a T25 or TD04 on a 1275cc has any boost before 3k, and with low comp pistons and intercooler and the longer chargepipes probably more laggy still
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
nice. 20-60mph in 6secs is bout the same as on my last datalog vid but that was uphill. ur short shifting cos of WOT high rev lean out?
aye the smaller tub seems nippier at low end for a daily
forgot to consider the extra IC piping would delay boost response. though mines more intended for long WOT periods on circuits, the little lag under normal driving is minor.
aye the smaller tub seems nippier at low end for a daily
forgot to consider the extra IC piping would delay boost response. though mines more intended for long WOT periods on circuits, the little lag under normal driving is minor.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
the pressure switch adaptor thread came. it threads onto the switch fine but the small male end is NPT whereas the hostail bit is BSP so only went in 1mm. i retapped the male end with an imperial die to try match the pitch. the hosetail went in more but was a snug feel. so i tightened it with me socket until the stupid error of overtightening lil bit more and it snaps off:doh: bugga
tried cutting a groove and unscrew it with an impact driver but its truly stuck
worried i'd have to order another hosetail & adapter, instead i thought i's just grind the hosetail bit to fit inside the adaptor and against the switch. so put the hosetail in a piller drill and machine away the female thread till it fits in the adapter
grind off the adaptor male end flush, apply sealant on the mating faces, screw onto switch and hey its shorter and better than before
hooked onto bike pump and adjusted it to switch at 10psi
tried cutting a groove and unscrew it with an impact driver but its truly stuck
worried i'd have to order another hosetail & adapter, instead i thought i's just grind the hosetail bit to fit inside the adaptor and against the switch. so put the hosetail in a piller drill and machine away the female thread till it fits in the adapter
grind off the adaptor male end flush, apply sealant on the mating faces, screw onto switch and hey its shorter and better than before
hooked onto bike pump and adjusted it to switch at 10psi
Last edited:
frank
Club Member
i,m not sure why i short shifted paul :blush: the leanout is only slight with the current (1/2 throttle) throttlestop fitted.
the 260/10mm inlet cam is the next job, and i,ll do another vid to compare eh
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
i,m not sure why i short shifted paul :blush: the leanout is only slight with the current (1/2 throttle) throttlestop fitted.
the 260/10mm inlet cam is the next job, and i,ll do another vid to compare eh
nice one:grinning:
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
intercooler covers over 1/4 the rad so a front fan would be tiny n noisy n not as effective. its a stock fan dremeled n bent to fit, does the job
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
Nice, looks just like the one we used to have on the car before the upgrade to an alloy rad.
Mad how they compare to a stock one when you compare extremes
now thats a thick rad:grinning: is it not full width? shame a full width alloy racing micra rad is soo expensive
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
comparing the new & old rad front & back very similar
heres the major difference
26mm core vs 16mm core
remelted the mounts till the fan sits flat against the face
it fits like a glove:grinning:
clearance is not as bad as i thought. only minor thing is the shroud just touches the elbow, little dremel will sort it
well there u go, the micra automatics rad is a cheap easy off the shelf upgrade for any manual micras having cooling probs(Y)
have to wait till oulton park in march to see if it performs enough
heres the major difference
26mm core vs 16mm core
remelted the mounts till the fan sits flat against the face
it fits like a glove:grinning:
clearance is not as bad as i thought. only minor thing is the shroud just touches the elbow, little dremel will sort it
well there u go, the micra automatics rad is a cheap easy off the shelf upgrade for any manual micras having cooling probs(Y)
have to wait till oulton park in march to see if it performs enough
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
yeah exactly same plumbing as normal, just a thicker core. the two small aux oil cooler pipes at the bottom are independant and just form a short pipe inside which frank posted a pic of earlier.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
ordered new clutch release bearing for £31 delivered and new retainer clips from dealer for £4 since mine'll be worn through.
but sad new tday. whilst phoning partco for quote on the bearing I gave my old micras reg since my current grey micra used to be auto, guy said hmm system says the cars scrapped pollymobile 1 is dead:down:
but sad new tday. whilst phoning partco for quote on the bearing I gave my old micras reg since my current grey micra used to be auto, guy said hmm system says the cars scrapped
pollymobile 1 is dead:down:
