PollyMobiles Rebuild

[SuluR]

i'm not sure. couldn't see any signs of blowing. did ya get to see the HG from the failed engine or ya just sold it on?

That engine, i took it out the car and put it aside and never did anything. I went on holiday and when i came back that and the original block got nicked :S. so no i didnt. Was a stressful weekend for both of us and i know its late but i apologies for it lol!

 

[pollyp]

Cant complain with 162bhp. Good to know it got there and back ok.

Mines a little sooty on occasion (can usually see it on the rear of the car) but it doesnt shoot soot. Putting the car on the dyno i found quite stressfull (even though i used to give it the same grief when driving / mapping it), always good when it gets back off still working. haha.

I should really finish my map off...theres some power waiting to be recovered.

aye def happy enough with this much punch. certainly glad its lasted this much abuse and a relief when they finished that it didn't blow up.

sootiness has gone away now, runs clean. prob a one off getting the new oil through the system. can only wait till next morning to start the cold engine to see if it reappears. entire garage and my moms plants were coated in soot, she wasnt too pleased

just gave her a little beating in country to clean the brakes, check clutch n AFR. letting her cool before checking oil.

 

[Stani1029]

great news polly, what boost you running? also what fuel pressure and whats next on your list? or you needing a small break haha

 

[pollyp]

Glad all is ok maate!! I'm sure you will iron out the creases Paul

Any chance of an in car video of it running? Also hows your clutch holding up?

aye tis always work in prog this little motor

ain't got round to video'ing her actually. maybe i'll do one of me special video & log combo.

clutch is handling the juice fine. tis only 1st gear after 3-4k where torque peaks does it then slip but def better than before. anyway the cars more for circuits than 1/4 miles

 

[solarice]

Haha, guess you didnt try "it was like that when i got here" ...good that it seems to have cleared up. So does that mean all you've gotta do now is enjoy it?

 

[pollyp]

great news polly, what boost you running? also what fuel pressure and whats next on your list? or you needing a small break haha

10psi. stock fpr that same with the 200sx fuel rail. this is prob as much upgrading as my wallet & family can take now, which has been pretty insane looking back. now tis time to enjoy and look after her and yeah could really do with a well deserved break such as UK road trip with m8s in july and nurburgring in august :grinning:

 

[pollyp]

Haha, guess you didnt try "it was like that when i got here" ...good that it seems to have cleared up. So does that mean all you've gotta do now is enjoy it?

YES and finally:grinning:

 

[Stani1029]

im well happy for you mate, lets make this one last as mines clearly never and others clearly havent. (Y)

 

[pollyp]

actually thinking about the slipping clutch in 1st, tis more of a wheel spin issue than a clutch slipping issue ain't it?
cos wouldn't the engine output the same torque band regardless of which gear its in? so if it slips at 3-4k, 150ftlb in 1st and if the clutch couldn't handle the torque, it should be slipping at the same point in any other gear?

 

[frank]

actually thinking about the slipping clutch in 1st, tis more of a wheel spin issue than a clutch slipping issue ain't it?
cos wouldn't the engine output the same torque band regardless of which gear its in? so if it slips at 3-4k, 150ftlb in 1st and if the clutch couldn't handle the torque, it should be slipping at the same point in any other gear?

yes paul, you should be wheelspinning in 1st and 2nd with that hp and the lsd :grinning:

 

[will930]

stock of spare tyres may be in order hear and congratulations with the amazing power figures dude

 

[pollyp]

here's the dyno graphs

torque peaks just above 150ftlb around 4.5 - 5k. seems at very low rpm launches it barely produces enough torque hence why i need to use slightly higher revs for good stable starts whereas the janspeed manifold on the other hand produces a flat consistant 80ftlb throughout the revs and so was able to just drop the clutch with low revs.

boost builds to 10psi at 4k but looks like it spikes slightly from 4 - 4.5k then stabilises to 10psi

 

[pollyp]

yes paul, you should be wheelspinning in 1st and 2nd with that hp and the lsd :grinning:

alrighteo. these t1r's don't produce much tyre squeal/screech hence mixed bout whether it was spinning clutch or tyres. previously when the janspeed system with stock open dif spun its wheels the whole car would shake but on the turbo it just feels smooth with no tyre noise hence mistake it for clutch.

 

[pollyp]

stock of spare tyres may be in order hear and congratulations with the amazing power figures dude

yea the toyo's are gonna be worn alot more rapidly now on :laugh:

 

[solarice]

Wish it wasnt foggy here, im half tempted to go out mapping. Look like nice graphs them do

I dont suppose you know how much the different engine is altering the power vs normal engine? Just curious.

 

[Stani1029]

you gotta sense of smell, the clutch would stink surely? my old turbo went all over the road in first during wheelspin, sometimes it wouldnt spin it would sort of bang off the road which i hated as it was like something was gonna brake. hope it not the clutch tho

 

[Vitus992]

A superb Blog, shame it seems like it is coming to an end. Well done chap, a superb documentary.

 

[Stani1029]

vitus something i always say to myself, "theres never an end product"

 

[martinb]

Would your boost come in because the engines lower c/r rating?

Also on the printout

Graph 2, the lower line is for the afr, why is it higher on idle? Please excuse my lack of knowledge (just trying to learn) but is the line not meant to be a smoother curve?

Sorry if it seems strange just trying to get a bigger picture, cheers

And well Done Paul

 

[baguete]

Well done mate, seems that at the end all things get together... (Y)

 

[pollyp]

Wish it wasnt foggy here, im half tempted to go out mapping. Look like nice graphs them do

I dont suppose you know how much the different engine is altering the power vs normal engine? Just curious.

at low rpm before boosting if you suddenly floor it theres a 1/2sec lack of torque as the turbo spools and afr richens, breifly feels like stock. once it spools past -10psi you get an exponential surge up the backside as the power increases with boost level and you better hold on if you gradually floor it the turbo has more time to spool and the initial part becomes smoother n feels torquer

above 3k is the boost threshold and it feels alot torquer on motorway. the feel and response of the turbo is slightly surge-like cos the torque is related to boost but if you drive smoothly it feels like a bigger engine.

when you lift the throttle rapidly creating huge vacuum such as changing gear and the dump valve opens expelling all the pressure, the boost & turbo speed drops very quickly so if the throttles not reopened fast enough you have to wait for the turbo to respool back up making the car pitch forward.
only way to prevent the delay is to shift gear really quickly, jun flywheel & helix clutch helps here.

 

[pollyp]

you gotta sense of smell, the clutch would stink surely? my old turbo went all over the road in first during wheelspin, sometimes it wouldnt spin it would sort of bang off the road which i hated as it was like something was gonna brake. hope it not the clutch tho

at speed the lack of splashplate may help keep the clutch abit cooler and the clutch smell doesn't seem to flow anywhere near where the cabin fan inlet is, can only think that you'd smell it when ur slowed down.
the lsd helps keep things straight as well as a tight grip on the steering

 

[pollyp]

A superb Blog, shame it seems like it is coming to an end. Well done chap, a superb documentary.

i wouldn't say its like ending, more like the rate of upgrading has stabilised into another stage that matches my specifications n budget n how much my family can tolerate petrol fumes n solvents through the house whenever i perform any major work and tis now the period to spend money towards making use of and maintaining the upgrades having FUN rather than forever wasting more money on newer upgrades that are never fully utilised n enjoyed, simply not sustainable in this state of economy

 

[baguete]

i wouldn't say its like ending, more like the rate of upgrading has stabilised into another stage that matches my specifications n budget n how much my family can tolerate petrol fumes n solvents through the house whenever i perform any major work and tis now the period to spend money towards making use of and maintaining the upgrades having FUN rather than forever wasting more money on newer upgrades that are never fully utilised n enjoyed, simply not sustainable in this state of economy

Yes, cant agree more, you have to enjoy the ride instead of having the car on the garage getting more mods...

 

[pollyp]

vitus something i always say to myself, "theres never an end product"

for all products there's usually an initial period of intense development to make the idea work followed by maintainance over its entire lifecycle. in the modification world, this cycle of develop n maintain ideas repeats itself driven by the developers urge and ability to seek improvements

 

[pollyp]

Would your boost come in because the engines lower c/r rating?

Also on the printout

Graph 2, the lower line is for the afr, why is it higher on idle? Please excuse my lack of knowledge (just trying to learn) but is the line not meant to be a smoother curve?

Sorry if it seems strange just trying to get a bigger picture, cheers

And well Done Paul

think where the boost peaks is prob affected by turbo size n inertia relative to the speed and pressure of the exhaust gases. smaller turbo = earlier but limited boost, bigger turbo = more potential boost pressure but slow response

Ed's the specialist to ask about all tuning n AFR n stuff

 

[pollyp]

Well done mate, seems that at the end all things get together... (Y)

with enough planning, prep, resources, knowledge and motivation it has indeed come together (Y)

 

[Noddie]

It looks very rich! 11.5? To me that afr curve doesn't look that great tbh, not that I'm claiming to know more than ed... just looks a bit choppy and rich?
Edit; that was a bit negative very glad you got the car running before the map and you must be very happy with the power output and the power/torque curves! Looks a lot of fun to drive!

 

[pollyp]

Ed's really the guy to speak to. Far as i know the afr should be like 10-12 at wot full boost cos any leaner and you risk melting stuff especially since its goin on several tracks. The mapping is tailored to each unique setup so that afr graph is just showing how it runs in order to acheive a more important smoother power & torque curve.

 

[pollyp]

bahh, really pee'd off with the cars alignment tday. its always been drifting to the left. i took it to national tyres for a 4 wheel alignment for £15. saw they only touched the front wheels. paid £15 drove down road and it still drifts left even more ffs. went back and they suggested goin down to road to north east motors who has a full computor controlled jig thing that could align the rear axle too, wtf?
ah f*ckin monkeys. sick of wasting money on useless garages. i'll do it myself

put the front wheels on dolleys and lined up the wheels with the string technique

self centerings little better but steering wheel still drifts left by 1deg even if i drive on other side of a quiet straight road to check if the road camber affects it.

readjusted steering wheel so it points straight when the car goes straight but it just seems as though the castor of the wheels are slightly off.

really annoying me

 

[frank]

have you got whiteline castor mounts on paul ?

 

[pollyp]

no.

hmm the BC coilovers have camber adjustable strut tops, could that have affected castor alignment?

 

[frank]

hmm the BC coilovers have camber adjustable strut tops, could that have affected castor alignment?

i doubt it paul, you could try a whiteline castor mount on the nearside only maybe ?

 

[pollyp]

some sites saying uneven camber between sides could cause a pull but just had another thought. the front right tyre is newer n thicker than the others and could have a small effect like a rolling polystyrene cup. gonna recheck the camber angles are both same then redo alignment. maybe also swap front left & right tyres to see if tyre thickness does affect it.

 

[baguete]

Im now with the SR, with Spax coilovers, all antiroll bars and braces, caster kit, etc... Will get it aligned tomorrow because the wheels are pointing to the center, and i had them straight before, but with this new suspension setup it got very misaligned...

Caster affects alignment?

 

[pollyp]

^ caster affects which way it points itself and how strong it tries.

ok tday i matched both camber angles then straightened all alignments with string. took it out and self centering is abit straighter but drift is still there eventually.

so i tried swapping left/right wheels and it drifts the other way or almost straight depending on type of roads. ah haa its the thicker newer tyre thats making it pull.

swapped tyres back and lowered the right tyre pressure till its almost straight, ended up with 2.95bar on the older tyre and 2.4bar on the newer tyre. straight as ever will be, tiny pull on some roads more likely cos of road camber.

 

[solarice]

At least you've tracked down the problem, also good that its nothing serious

 

[pollyp]

aye. every day i'm tackling each minor issue one by one

the new downpipe was also rattling against the centre beam so i cut abit of the lip off

lots more gap so def wont rattle now.

also notice where the rear of the centre beam is bolted. the old rubber cusions have long perished and previously used a couple of big washers to fill the gap. but tday i found a pair of spare driveshaft nuts also does a better job. more secure now.

 

[pollyp]

engine uses abit of oil whenever its pushed. exhaust is clear and no mayo in oil or coolant but i suspect it could be the damn sump gasket again cos there's dirt coated oily film around where the turbo drain meets the sump and the sump gasket under the front crank seal. will need to clean it all off and recheck it.

 

[Scott]

How much oil are you losing?

I thought forged pistons were meant to burn the tiniest amount of oil?

 

[pollyp]

on mineral it was using a full dipstick after 280miles. on 5w 50 fully synth with hard urban driving tis abit better at bout 1/2 dipstick per tank. yet to test how much it'll use on 60mph cruise down to london tomorrow.

i think the rings are fine cos compressions good, no smoke and no mayo. prob just a sump leak

 

[baguete]

also notice where the rear of the centre beam is bolted. the old rubber cusions have long perished and previously used a couple of big washers to fill the gap. but tday i found a pair of spare driveshaft nuts also does a better job. more secure now.

Did it rattled before you did that?

 

[pollyp]

the rubber fell apart when i removed the bolt so had to fill the gap with washers

 

[pollyp]

Went down to london and it still consumes high to low within 200miles. Not enough bottle of oil to get home so will have to wait for halfords to open tomorrow before heading home cos its closed tday

 

[baguete]

Is it leaking? Or drinking?

 

[pollyp]

Unsure. I need to do a wet dry compression test next

 

[pollyp]

hey. just got back from london and figured the oil levels going from high to low within 200miles.

afr been cruising at bout 14.7 - 15.3 and plug looks very lean white

did a dry compression test and over the past several hundred miles its been gradually increasing to 10.9/10.8/11.5/10.9 (cyl 1/2/3/4)

then injected abit of oil and redid the test and they shot up to 11.3/12.2/12.2/11.7 (cyl 1/2/3/4), cyl 2 looks the worst at 1.4bar increase

oh god does this mean the rings are fried?

think i should prob reseal the sump once again till it stops oil staining and see if that controls the oil level. if not i'll have to get garage to do a leak down test of the rings.

prob should never have used motomans bed in procedure twice now eh.

 

[pollyp]

just cleaned all the oil stains from underneath and i believe i've traced the oil leak back to the common front crank seal cos it stained down the timing cover, off the sump edge and spattered onto the susp arm & body just behind.

so time for new front crank seal

also when i cold start, the exhaust emits alot of soot, more than i like and covers everything in it and maybe inside the house too. maybe i should tell nistune to not run sooooo rich when cold?

 

[solarice]

How rich are you running when cold? Mine is maybe very high 11's to mid 12's if im remembering correctly and thats only for maybe a minute or so (numbers climbing all the time) where it finally settles around 14.7

Are your plugs stock micra? maybe a grade colder would help...

 

[pollyp]

think it starts off 13ish but quickly goes to 14.7

actually i did just do a wet/dry comp test beforehand so the sooty dusty exhaust could be the excess oil i poured into the cylinders burning off

it has colder plugs

maybe i need to tweak the injector multiplier abit til get the cruising mixture right.