-
Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum
PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
not sure of that but i am sure of getting a helix kit
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
noticed a slight issue with the current intercooler piping in that the abs modulator will be in the way so after relocating the battery i'll prob need to buy more silicon elbows to re-route the pipework
also shero has sold his helix paddle clutch kit but he has the helix organic plate for £50. i'll go for that cos in helix website the range of group A 184mm organic plates are rated at 112, 159 & 238ftlbs (may prob also be kinder to the expensive flywheel) and if it still slips then i buy the paddle helix off matt
also shero has sold his helix paddle clutch kit but he has the helix organic plate for £50. i'll go for that cos in helix website the range of group A 184mm organic plates are rated at 112, 159 & 238ftlbs (may prob also be kinder to the expensive flywheel) and if it still slips then i buy the paddle helix off matt
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
tday i got the battery cable, silicon elbows, stepped drill bit, weld gloves & weld mask.
one concern bout the £23 auto darken mask is that it's plastic n flimsey. are plastic weld masks normal and safe? or shall i return it and get a more £££ metal one? also there's no tint adjustment. like it came from £ shopfwn
one concern bout the £23 auto darken mask is that it's plastic n flimsey. are plastic weld masks normal and safe? or shall i return it and get a more £££ metal one? also there's no tint adjustment. like it came from £ shopfwn
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
not till i brought a fireproof overall
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
this kit arrived
thermoplastic autoshade mask
pretty bog standard. to test the shade i ended up just looking closely at a clear light bulb and switch it on-off for the past half hour
works a treat
wether the plastic'll save my face is another matter
now to make my diy battery terminals. remove 2cm of sheath. the core bunch is 8cm dia, exactly the same as the copper pipe, but when it frays out, its tricky to insert
so i flared the copper pipe to guide the wires in
carefully guide & twist the wire cores into the pipe
crush a thin metal strip on either side of the pipe end to crimp it against the core to prevent it slipping out
measure 2cm out and crush the pipe flat where the cable core ends
to get this
drill bolt holes to fit like this
heatshinked the terminals
the silicon elbow is trimmed to fit it close to the turbo inlet
rough layout of recirc valve
thermoplastic autoshade mask
pretty bog standard. to test the shade i ended up just looking closely at a clear light bulb and switch it on-off for the past half hour
works a treatwether the plastic'll save my face is another matter
now to make my diy battery terminals. remove 2cm of sheath. the core bunch is 8cm dia, exactly the same as the copper pipe, but when it frays out, its tricky to insert
so i flared the copper pipe to guide the wires in
carefully guide & twist the wire cores into the pipe
crush a thin metal strip on either side of the pipe end to crimp it against the core to prevent it slipping out
measure 2cm out and crush the pipe flat where the cable core ends
to get this
drill bolt holes to fit like this
heatshinked the terminals
the silicon elbow is trimmed to fit it close to the turbo inlet
rough layout of recirc valve
Last edited:
you wont need fireproof overalls, i've watched my friend weld in shorts and vest top without any problems
and nice work with the new + wiring
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
arc welding in shorts?
i don't think i'll take a chance in skipping for my safety
glad ya'll like the cabling. will fit it soon
Although i would not recommend welding in shorts! I really dont think you need an apron, decent pair of jeans and an old cotton jumper would be just fine, oh, and some decent shoes And the helmet looks fine! Looks like youv got a decent pair of gloves there too
just get stuck in mate(Y)
P.s, is that a volvo recirc valve you'v got there? iv got the same one
And the helmet looks fine! Looks like youv got a decent pair of gloves there too just get stuck in mate(Y)
P.s, is that a volvo recirc valve you'v got there? iv got the same one
Oh yeah
thats what i got it off dunno why i thought it was volvo.yeah, overalls will be fine mate, especialy with the dc inverter as you wont get all that splatter going everywhere.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
right cheers guys, prob start practice on weekend
i'll need a cone filter that'll fit the 60mm pipe, preferably k&n. since filters are listed mostly under what car model they fit, anyone know which model would be 60mm. or do i have to drive to demontweeks and try various ones?
i'll need a cone filter that'll fit the 60mm pipe, preferably k&n. since filters are listed mostly under what car model they fit, anyone know which model would be 60mm. or do i have to drive to demontweeks and try various ones?
solarice
Ex. Club Member
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
yep just looked at that and after googling which kits contain the 60mm cone filter i traced it down to:
57-0414 induction kit using the RC-1624 filter for a FIAT SEICENTO
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=57-0414
bout £61
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/57-0414-K-N-57i-Induction-Kit-Fiat-Seicento-1-1-00-06-/360333787727?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53e591424f
or 57-0184-1 that uses the bigger RC-9830 filter for a RENAULT CLIO 1.2L
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=57-0184-1
bout £76
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/K-N-57i-INDUCTION-KIT-RENAULT-CLIO-1-2-96-98-57-0184-1-/270531361466?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3efcecfaba
can't find supplier who just sells the filter themselves
57-0414 induction kit using the RC-1624 filter for a FIAT SEICENTO
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=57-0414
bout £61
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/57-0414-K-N-57i-Induction-Kit-Fiat-Seicento-1-1-00-06-/360333787727?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53e591424f
or 57-0184-1 that uses the bigger RC-9830 filter for a RENAULT CLIO 1.2L
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=57-0184-1
bout £76
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/K-N-57i-INDUCTION-KIT-RENAULT-CLIO-1-2-96-98-57-0184-1-/270531361466?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3efcecfaba
can't find supplier who just sells the filter themselves
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
ah actually google found a 60mm filter for a honda cx500 for £17.33(Y)
http://www.gingerparts.com/products/ha-0700
http://www.gingerparts.com/products/ha-0700
Can i ask why you are looking for it to be 60mm? surely the inlet for your turbo isnt that big? are you going to run the afm between the turbo and filter? Ed(fusion) said that that caused problems when he tried to map a car set up like that and that it is best to have it just before the TB
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
Can i ask why you are looking for it to be 60mm? surely the inlet for your turbo isnt that big? are you going to run the afm between the turbo and filter? Ed(fusion) said that that caused problems when he tried to map a car set up like that and that it is best to have it just before the TB
yea the turbo inlets 60mm dia. i used 60mm 90deg elbow to try avoid fouling the rad fan. 60mm pipe goes up, across the manifold and into the 60mm filter near the washer bottle. afm stays near the TB
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
so i made this mounting bracket to secure the battery
tried cutting the cable with a hacksaw but it made a hash of the wires meaning it can't fit into the copper pipe, so tried to crush it back down with a jubilee and grinded the ends flat. eventually worked.
ground & live cables
drilled hole through gromet n fed cable through
reinserted bulkhead gromet
roughly hook up live wire
grinded the cross beam under the passenger seat and bolted the ground cable up.
drilled mounting holes, double checked it didn't go through fuel/brake lines beforehand.
bolted up
excess cable to trim
removed battery tray, moved relay boxes and the live cable needs sorting next
lots more space. i figure if the abs unit/pipes are in the way, i could route the intercooler pipes up behind the rad through the space revealed and straight over to the TB
hooked up the cables n tested the starter, it works fine. finish the rest tomorrow night
tried cutting the cable with a hacksaw but it made a hash of the wires meaning it can't fit into the copper pipe, so tried to crush it back down with a jubilee and grinded the ends flat. eventually worked.
ground & live cables
drilled hole through gromet n fed cable through
reinserted bulkhead gromet
roughly hook up live wire
grinded the cross beam under the passenger seat and bolted the ground cable up.
drilled mounting holes, double checked it didn't go through fuel/brake lines beforehand.
bolted up
excess cable to trim
removed battery tray, moved relay boxes and the live cable needs sorting next
lots more space. i figure if the abs unit/pipes are in the way, i could route the intercooler pipes up behind the rad through the space revealed and straight over to the TB
hooked up the cables n tested the starter, it works fine. finish the rest tomorrow night
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
pillar gauge pod arrived
test fit the wideband gauge
this huge pipe came too. good thing my m8 driving tday has a modern mondeo to fit it in cos half of it'll prob stick out in my boot
grind the bolt flat. now this will need insulating cos you definately do not ever want this part to touch any other metal n short out
used the plastic cover from the gutted loom
goes here
routed the cables under the abs module and straight into the cabin
insulated
through the bulkhead
ziptied along the sill tops
and onto the battery
battery connected. need to make a +ve terminal plastic cover but ducktape'll do for now
ziptied relays aside
cut off the un-used original -ve cable
upon starting, i sense it's performing a little weaker than the normal battery cos now the starter motor occasionally clicks initially and then 2nd time it cranks but stuggles slightly. i think the ground point under the seat is causing a higher resistance. will prob anchor a longer cable towards the sill or maybe i should buy another cable routed all the way back to the starter ground.
test fit the wideband gauge
this huge pipe came too. good thing my m8 driving tday has a modern mondeo to fit it in cos half of it'll prob stick out in my boot
grind the bolt flat. now this will need insulating cos you definately do not ever want this part to touch any other metal n short out
used the plastic cover from the gutted loom
goes here
routed the cables under the abs module and straight into the cabin
insulated
through the bulkhead
ziptied along the sill tops
and onto the battery
battery connected. need to make a +ve terminal plastic cover but ducktape'll do for now
ziptied relays aside
cut off the un-used original -ve cable
upon starting, i sense it's performing a little weaker than the normal battery cos now the starter motor occasionally clicks initially and then 2nd time it cranks but stuggles slightly. i think the ground point under the seat is causing a higher resistance. will prob anchor a longer cable towards the sill or maybe i should buy another cable routed all the way back to the starter ground.
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
cheers very much
goin to n from work tday the starter motor again just clicks several times as though there's not enough juice for the starter solenoid to push the pinion all the way into the flywheel teeth in order to start the motor. eventually after 10 rapid clicks it overcomes the cranks compression stage and fires up slowly.
is the chassis causing the resistance i say? so i used a longer ground cable anchored to the bulkhead, same issue. so i extended the ground back towards where the original -ve is both bolted to the chassis & thick leads to the starter casing, it starts perfectly instantly. ok so the body might not be conductive enough and prob need to make another cable leading directly to the starter.
but then when i unbolted the extended cable from the original -ve anchor point i noticed the -ve lead bracket & chassis point is rather corrided with dull white oxide. so i grinded both surfaces clean, installed the original -ve starter ground lead to chassis and reconnect the battery -ve to the crossframe under the seat and wahey it starts very strongly every time:grinning:
so the problem was actually just poor starter -ve grounding due to minor surface corrosion of the connection.
goin to n from work tday the starter motor again just clicks several times as though there's not enough juice for the starter solenoid to push the pinion all the way into the flywheel teeth in order to start the motor. eventually after 10 rapid clicks it overcomes the cranks compression stage and fires up slowly.
is the chassis causing the resistance i say? so i used a longer ground cable anchored to the bulkhead, same issue. so i extended the ground back towards where the original -ve is both bolted to the chassis & thick leads to the starter casing, it starts perfectly instantly. ok so the body might not be conductive enough and prob need to make another cable leading directly to the starter.
but then when i unbolted the extended cable from the original -ve anchor point i noticed the -ve lead bracket & chassis point is rather corrided with dull white oxide. so i grinded both surfaces clean, installed the original -ve starter ground lead to chassis and reconnect the battery -ve to the crossframe under the seat and wahey it starts very strongly every time:grinning:
so the problem was actually just poor starter -ve grounding due to minor surface corrosion of the connection.
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
well, had a go at arc welding over weekend
setup in garage
cold starting an arc is soo tricky cos it keeps sticking but once the tips warmed up its abit easier to start.
tried the match striking technique and the rapid poking and found that if i'm too gentle n cautious it will stick. but it i just go for it n keep it moving it behaves.
when the surface is bare metal it's really quiet, just high pitch squeeeeeee. tis only on dirty metal like the dustbin or on high amps that it spatters.
first attempts abit meh
on a thicker brake disc i forgot to turn the amps up hence no penetration and just globs up on the shiny disc (like trying to solder on dirty surface). wacked up amps for 2.5mm+ lotsa sparks and stick consuming rapidly but now there's nice penetration (at top)
2nd try at thin panels and doin nothing but burn holes mostly. but found that if i keep the molton pool going side to side at 10mm rather than keeping a steady line, its less likely to burn through, although with less weld buildup
need alot! more practice
think maybe i should get exhaust shop to weld the wideband bung onto me SS pipe (only one chance with SS pipe whereas i'll prob just burn through it), and i weld a bung on the steel turbo inlet pipe for the recirc valve.
#####
this morning i had a meeting in sheffield so the office had already got my tickets for 9am train from middlesbrough to arrive at 11am (originally wanted to drive there in my car but meh, work policy) and my other colleage would join me at yarm station.
set off towards work abit early in hope to park at the office and walk to the station but of all days, tday every traffic light was red and all drivers & lorries were slow GRRR
after parking, i only had 8mins to run across town to the station, omg i'm soooooo un-fit. got to station breathless n wrecked only to find the train was on the opposite platform and left FFS!
thought there was no point waiting for next train cos i'll prob be late. so rang office for the meetings postcode, ran back to the car and set off racing towards sheffield for 11am in a sort of car-vs-train topgear challenge
coughing from exhaustion n dehydration i got there eventually at 11.05am...meanwhile, my colleage was delayed for an hr. so the car wins whoohoo
cruised back home after meeting, checked milage n surprisingly even after kaning the crap outa her to sheffield and cruise back, she did 35mpg. lovely
setup in garage
cold starting an arc is soo tricky cos it keeps sticking but once the tips warmed up its abit easier to start.
tried the match striking technique and the rapid poking and found that if i'm too gentle n cautious it will stick. but it i just go for it n keep it moving it behaves.
when the surface is bare metal it's really quiet, just high pitch squeeeeeee. tis only on dirty metal like the dustbin or on high amps that it spatters.
first attempts abit meh
on a thicker brake disc i forgot to turn the amps up hence no penetration and just globs up on the shiny disc (like trying to solder on dirty surface). wacked up amps for 2.5mm+ lotsa sparks and stick consuming rapidly but now there's nice penetration (at top)
2nd try at thin panels and doin nothing but burn holes mostly. but found that if i keep the molton pool going side to side at 10mm rather than keeping a steady line, its less likely to burn through, although with less weld buildup
need alot! more practice
think maybe i should get exhaust shop to weld the wideband bung onto me SS pipe (only one chance with SS pipe whereas i'll prob just burn through it), and i weld a bung on the steel turbo inlet pipe for the recirc valve.
#####
this morning i had a meeting in sheffield so the office had already got my tickets for 9am train from middlesbrough to arrive at 11am (originally wanted to drive there in my car but meh, work policy) and my other colleage would join me at yarm station.
set off towards work abit early in hope to park at the office and walk to the station but of all days, tday every traffic light was red and all drivers & lorries were slow GRRR
after parking, i only had 8mins to run across town to the station, omg i'm soooooo un-fit. got to station breathless n wrecked only to find the train was on the opposite platform and left FFS!
thought there was no point waiting for next train cos i'll prob be late. so rang office for the meetings postcode, ran back to the car and set off racing towards sheffield for 11am in a sort of car-vs-train topgear challenge
coughing from exhaustion n dehydration i got there eventually at 11.05am...meanwhile, my colleage was delayed for an hr. so the car wins whoohoo
cruised back home after meeting, checked milage n surprisingly even after kaning the crap outa her to sheffield and cruise back, she did 35mpg. lovely
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
15? either ur runnin a v8 or somethings really wrong. even after a trackday i get at least 25mpg.
check ur not leakin fuel, all temp/o2/afm/tps sensors workin in spec, injectors not leakin or sticking, plugs are not fouled
or better yet, plug a consult diagnostic to it to see the data readings
check ur not leakin fuel, all temp/o2/afm/tps sensors workin in spec, injectors not leakin or sticking, plugs are not fouled
or better yet, plug a consult diagnostic to it to see the data readings
is 2.5 the thinnest you can get frank? and i thought those machines had an anti sticking device fitted for striking the arc?
low amps and thin rods for thin metal eh paul
I would go down your local scrap metal place and just get a loada angle and box, make yourself a little frame for something as a first project
low amps and thin rods for thin metal eh paul
I would go down your local scrap metal place and just get a loada angle and box, make yourself a little frame for something as a first project
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
its a start frank but i could prob do better next time. when i lift the stick at the end of the weld i always find the hot tip just keeps burning abit and once its cooled its surrounded by flux so i either have to trim the flux with pliers or just keep banging the tip onto the surface to try chip the flux off till is sparks again, tis annoying.
what happens when i use bigger rods other than not being consumed as quickly? prob burn through sheet metal i feel?
noddie, i'm using 1.6mm mild steel rods.
i think i'll need to put some sorta heat sink behind sheet metal like copper plate so the base metal doesn't burn through as easily.
yea i def ned to track some loca scrappy for spare metal and build a practice frame.
another thing i need to figure is how to weld think plates onto thinner plates (like the wideband bung onto a thinner SS exhaust) cos the thinner plate tended to just melt away.
what happens when i use bigger rods other than not being consumed as quickly? prob burn through sheet metal i feel?
noddie, i'm using 1.6mm mild steel rods.
i think i'll need to put some sorta heat sink behind sheet metal like copper plate so the base metal doesn't burn through as easily.
yea i def ned to track some loca scrappy for spare metal and build a practice frame.
another thing i need to figure is how to weld think plates onto thinner plates (like the wideband bung onto a thinner SS exhaust) cos the thinner plate tended to just melt away.
Thicker rods need more amps to melt them properly, so no good for low amp work.
Yeah, a heat sink is a good idea. big lumps of copper arnt that cheap though. you can also weld in sections and allow cooling time in between.
as for welding thin to thick, you have to practice directing the arc/heat more at the thicker metal and let the weld pool melt the thinner metal, tricky business. practice practice practice eh
im going to have to ive got 120miles from a full tank and it a bit under half a tank!
