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PollyMobiles Rebuild

i've been wondering wether i should get a £250-350 tig welder to learn from scratch and so custom make my own ideal turbo manifold/downpipe/induction pipes in march or fit the current less ideal setup first to test before getting someone to make the custom setup?

will be a big investment and jump in deep end to learn tig and i'm not sure if tig inverters can run on my home mains. dont have much space for spatter tis why i chose tig over mig. i've only touched abit of mig welding at uni.

anyone use tig at home or can advise what machine to get for making SS manifolds, Alu induction pipes etc and how to sort out power supply?
 
prob leave the tig weld out for now cos i should spend that amount towards a wideband sensor instead. a mate said he once had a complete SS system custom made by a garage for bout £250-300 so prob the best option for a one off.
 
bah, found a rust hole under the inner sill ahead of the rear jacking pointgrr

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exactly same on the other side, simple weld on plate job for local welder

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after looking at afew pics of the turbo setup when i was disassembling it, i figured out that the turbo air outlet was actually suppose to go straight down, across behind the turbo exhaust and then forward into the intercooler.

previously thought it went forward, across the front of the turbo and into the intercooler

so this would resolve the issue of the air outlet conflicting with the edge of the radiator :)

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using and aircon version alternator mount & bracket to extend the alternator so its not pushing against the turbo oil feed pipe

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wastegate actuator feed tis like this. i'll be fitting a tight 90deg bend to the turbo inlet to go up, across over the top of the manifold and into the pod filter at the empty RH of the bay

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air outlet piping clos to the oil drain

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rough pipe layout

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Scott said:
Unique exhausts in Stafford gets big thumbs up. Cracking workmanship and good prices.
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long trek for me but will keep in mind when i decide this system needs refining (Y)

would prob need to book few days off work to keep the car there as they make the complete manifold & downpipe.

some ppl i read got a custom turbo back system for £220 which is fab
 
frank said:
get one of theses paul http://www.welduk.com/Details.asp?ProductID=244 you can screw them right down and weld thin stuff no probs, and you can also use it to fab a prototype steel system for now then get it copied in SS at a later date, if its all ok :grinning:
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ooh them 13amp 240v units look convienient and do-able. ya think they're any good for makin SS manifold n downpipe?

will check the cost of a 13amp cheapo tig welder + accessories + material against the cost of gettin a garage to potentially do a better one-off £200+ system
 
i,ve never used stainless steel rods personally paul, guy (k12 member) is probably the best one to ask :grinning:
 
That'll be me then :laugh:. You can MIG weld stainless but their are two types of stainless, you'd have to make sure you got the right one. Also, stainless should be purged inside the pipe as well or the steel crystalises - it's called sugaring. Also, you can't use CO2, or 'pub' gas. You can use pure argon, as you would for TIG, but there's a gass called Stainless Shield which would be even better. Personally, when you're getting into stainless, TIG is yay cooler (Y). No spatter, extremely neat and can be used on mild and ally as well.
 
gr8 info m8(Y). though it sounds rather expensive overall and specialised especially for a noob and i don't have room for mega canisters. maybe best to get it made by a specialist
 
i asked our local fabricators paul, and he said you can get a nice weld with stainless arc welding (no gas needed eh), and these dc inverter welders are chip controlled to stop the rod sticking on strike-up :cool:
 
frank said:
i asked our local fabricators paul, and he said you can get a nice weld with stainless arc welding (no gas needed eh), and these dc inverter welders are chip controlled to stop the rod sticking on strike-up :cool:
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That is some useful info right there. :p
 
frank said:
i asked our local fabricators paul, and he said you can get a nice weld with stainless arc welding (no gas needed eh), and these dc inverter welders are chip controlled to stop the rod sticking on strike-up :cool:
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isn't stick welding messy & spatter everywhere and require cleanup? tbh i don't think i have a proper welding area cos one garage where i work & store stuff has rags, wood shelves, etc none ventilated and the other garage is where the cars parked so no space there.
 
just saw franks post about the £100 arc welder and it looks real good and tempting. i suppose i could do the welding out in the back alley when the weathers fine.
was there much splatter frank? and did it require much cleanup afterwards?
 
nice. ya think it's ok for plating the holes under the sills without blowing holes or should i get me local welder to mig it £40 each side?
 
pollyp said:
nice. ya think it's ok for plating the holes under the sills without blowing holes or should i get me local welder to mig it £40 each side?
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it depends how much you are gonna use it really paul, i,m always welding stuff eh, but if its gonna gather dust on a shelf in your garage then no
and as long as you overlap the fillet piece, and dont have a gap then sure (tbh butt welding 22 gauge sheet steel is a mission even with a mig) :grinning:
 
well i'll imagine i'll be using it in few months for welding a bung on downpipe for wideband, flanges on mid-pipe for the cat, custom manifold & downpipe, patch up the rust hole. afterwards will be patching the odd body rust hole over the years and maybe some home shelving etc.
if it does all that fine then it'll be worth the saving

will be a useful skill & ability
 
k gonna phone em to order the inverter & 1.6mm 50pk sticks and SS sticks cos their website checkout doesn't seem to work properly

...done, arrive next week :)
 
i'm looking at fitting a smaller drycell battery under the passenger seat. anyone recommend any thats within £200 or what specs to look for?
 
haynes manual specs says 36A/h but the odyssey pc680 is only 17ah, would it have enough amps to start the cold engine? or does it mean i can't use the battery with engine off for too long?

i found a Varley Red Top 40 35A/h £175 on demontweeks


BIG10_vrt40_right.jpg.jpg


and a Odyssey Extreme Racing 30 with 32A/h £150 on ebay thats lighter n smaller

ody_30.jpg
 
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A few folk on AOC run the PC680 and have no problems starting. But I couldnt say for sure if its enough to start it from cold...
 
think i'll use the 32ah odyssey just to be sure.

btw will the current castrol gtx 10w40 be suitable with the turbo or does it require thinner grade?
just got a 4l castrol gtx 10w40 for £10 in asda sale thats usually £17 :)
 
pollyp said:
think i'll use the 32ah odyssey just to be sure.

btw will the current castrol gtx 10w40 be suitable with the turbo or does it require thinner grade?
just got a 4l castrol gtx 10w40 for £10 in asda sale thats usually £17 :)
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Hello PollyP,

Nice work on everything! (Y)

I recommend either a 10W50, or 5W50 to be honest, you'l need that extra higher operating temp for coping with the excess heat of the turbo etc unless you got an oil cooler?

You'l notice straight away with the turbo how much hotter the engine gets even with casual driving.
 
i'll see how the radiator copes

speakin of which, i just did a rough measure and from this pic it looks like the turbo is def too close to the rad fan that i won't be able to fit a tight 90deg elbow in the inlet even if i dremel some of the shroud out.

can't move the fan cos its already at the edge of the rad, smaller fans would just compromise the cooling system. so i'll prob have to move the rad over but give enough room for the intercooler pipe and make a new top plate
 
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pollyp said:
i'll see how the radiator copes

speakin of which, i just did a rough measure and from this pic it looks like the turbo is def too close to the rad fan that i won't be able to fit a tight 90deg elbow in the inlet even if i dremel some of the shroud out.

k550i1921copy.jpg


can't move the fan cos its already at the edge of the rad, smaller fans would just compromise the cooling system. so i'll prob have to move the rad over but give enough room for the intercooler pipe and make a new top plate
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fair enough, the rad you have should be fine..just nicer I guess to keep everything as cool as possible that way better for the engine, performance etc.

You should just get a slimline fan(wont compromise cooling in anyway) ; ) will work perfect and no complication to fit..

either that or what frank said. you can also try trimming down the frame/mount of the fan which will give you more space, done this on mine but needed even more space (very tight fit)
 
Scopez said:
fair enough, the rad you have should be fine..just nicer I guess to keep everything as cool as possible that way better for the engine, performance etc.

You should just get a slimline fan(wont compromise cooling in anyway) ; ) will work perfect and no complication to fit..

either that or what frank said. you can also try trimming down the frame/mount of the fan which will give you more space, done this on mine but needed even more space (very tight fit)
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i'll look into slimline fans but prob easier n cheaper to just move the rad over... hmm googled slimline rad fans and they're bout 6cm thick which is the same as my rad fan shroud

will be trimming the fan shroud abit but as illustrated the blue elbow joint would interfere with the edge if the fan blades unless i move the rad over.
also i think having the elbow that far into the inlet can't be good for airflow.
 
ok i noticed the shroud is actually 7mm from the radiator and the back of the fan blade is 14mm from the back of the shroud so theory is if i soften & bend the fan support arms and move the fan assembly forward till it touches the rad and trim abit of the shroud, it might be enough for the blades to miss the silicone elbow

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got a spare micra TB AFM connector from scrappy

DSC03499.JPG


heres the gti-r connector

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thought bout keeping the wiring colours correct for future diagnosis so i dissected the un-used loom to get the AFM wires

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pulled off the black cover to reveal the proper green wire

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will connect this to this, looking at my current TB to make sure which wire goes where

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soldered extension wires to gti-r plug

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soldered the other ends to the k11 AFM plug

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heatshrinked

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a one completed k11 -> gti-r AFM extension adaptor cable

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could do. would have to figure how to mount it, costs, will it draw more amps and if it'll be noisier compared to the whisp of a big fan.

in scrappy i saw the fiats use a thin fan with the shroud build into it rather than the thick static surround type but looks flimsey n weak tbh.
 
the arc welder arrived. urm its absolutely tiny:grinning:

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just need shield, gloves, apron, boots, clothing, £30 co2 extinguisher and lotsa scrap metal (where's the best place?) and i'm off

hmm it's says only use supply with 16amp slow fuse or circuit breaker yet website says its 13amp plug? frank so is it running ok with 1.6mm rods on 13amp plugs? prob should see if i could upgrade the mainsbox to 16amp for the thicker SS rods.

once read bout ppl upgrading their inverter coolin fan for better performance, recommended?
 
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frank said:
you only need a mask paul lol, or just a glass (# 11 ?) and make a mask for now and get welding (Y)
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Although I would agree with frank about not needing all that gear, my auto darkening mask is really great. All the rest is expenable, you've got a pair of gardening gloves somewhere haven't you? I wouldn't worry about the plug, iv never had a problem with my 200A MIG or my 100A arc.
Just get some scrap from the local merchants/tip and start having fun!
 
they might be tiny paul but mine welded one of my cast mani,s no probs, and here,s how much penetration you get on 2 pieces of 6.5mm thick steel :cool: (far more than you would get with a 240v/mains powered mig)

 

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frank said:
they might be tiny paul but mine welded one of my cast mani,s no probs, and here,s how much penetration you get on 2 pieces of 6.5mm thick steel :cool: (far more than you would get with a 240v/mains powered mig)
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i meant the inverter unit is tiny compared the the big mig machines i see at uni, which is good for storage.
 

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