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My Micra Dot Rising To The Top! :)
- Thread starter will930
- Start date
martinb
Ex. Club Member
have you checked your ecu for damp mate? might be worth "borrowing" an ecu from the breakers or something, as you said there was damp getting in didnt you?
your doing a me, "the cars going"!!?
calm down old chap
your fix it, wonder if a diagnostics would throw any fault codes?
i reckon you should unplug every plug on the loom, one by one and clean them,
take 1 out and clean it/check it so on etc
its not the engine, didnt do that in my car so some things not right in yours?
didnt you say it happened after you tried to remove the engine at your workshop?
ive found a video when it was in mine
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/martboy21/rimini 2010/micra/6fa57fa2.mp4
no problems then
its car related not enginefwn
your doing a me, "the cars going"!!?
calm down old chap
your fix it, wonder if a diagnostics would throw any fault codes?i reckon you should unplug every plug on the loom, one by one and clean them,
take 1 out and clean it/check it so on etc
its not the engine, didnt do that in my car so some things not right in yours?
didnt you say it happened after you tried to remove the engine at your workshop?
ive found a video when it was in mine
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj18/martboy21/rimini 2010/micra/6fa57fa2.mp4
no problems then
its car related not enginefwn
funny this about the ecu as i have just plugged my leak in the cabin
when damp ,,,,was around the ecu i put £20 petrol and got 60 something miles and then it was on empty.
£20 petrol ,,since drying the interior out by keeping fan settings on fresh air and plugging the"under wipers clips" and drying ,,the MPG has already increased----------leaving me to think exactly that,,,,damp ecu = limp mode,,rich running
i will report the end mileage i got!!!!
when damp ,,,,was around the ecu i put £20 petrol and got 60 something miles and then it was on empty.
£20 petrol ,,since drying the interior out by keeping fan settings on fresh air and plugging the"under wipers clips" and drying ,,the MPG has already increased----------leaving me to think exactly that,,,,damp ecu = limp mode,,rich running
i will report the end mileage i got!!!!
OP
OP
well now i am very much unhappy...
got someone to look at it today who is very good with his stuff build jag racing engines etc
before i opened the workshop door he could hear something not right
got it in and said its running only on 3 cylinders.... took laser heat gun to manifold and cylinder 4 is down on temp...
then removed plugs and found that no.4 has hardly taken any wear as the other had equal wear...
so compression tester came out and no.4 is running at 60-70psi and the others are well in spec...
so im going to have to remove cover and check clearences and if there okay and check cams for odd wear and the buckets etc...
then if nothing wrong head off and rebuild and then it will give me a better reason as to whats wrong...
but i dont ever have the time nor money to do this work so i dont know im ####ed off and at my teathers end
and im making my own micra 3 cylinder club!
got someone to look at it today who is very good with his stuff build jag racing engines etc
before i opened the workshop door he could hear something not right
got it in and said its running only on 3 cylinders.... took laser heat gun to manifold and cylinder 4 is down on temp...
then removed plugs and found that no.4 has hardly taken any wear as the other had equal wear...
so compression tester came out and no.4 is running at 60-70psi and the others are well in spec...
so im going to have to remove cover and check clearences and if there okay and check cams for odd wear and the buckets etc...
then if nothing wrong head off and rebuild and then it will give me a better reason as to whats wrong...
but i dont ever have the time nor money to do this work so i dont know im ####ed off and at my teathers end
and im making my own micra 3 cylinder club!
martinb
Ex. Club Member
wtf!!!?
dude there is nothing wrong with that damn engine!, swap the ht leads over thats what cured mine
i dont get this, i took it out my car working, ever since its gone in yours its had nothing but trouble
you would know if it is running on 3 cylinders bro, it would sound like mine just did!
do me a favour please will, run out to the shed and get another ht lead for cylinder 4
report back when your done matey(Y)
dude there is nothing wrong with that damn engine!, swap the ht leads over thats what cured mine
i dont get this, i took it out my car working, ever since its gone in yours its had nothing but trouble
you would know if it is running on 3 cylinders bro, it would sound like mine just did!
do me a favour please will, run out to the shed and get another ht lead for cylinder 4
report back when your done matey(Y)
OP
OP
but if you were awake i told you lol.... i screwed them when i tried to make copper core ht's lol....
but if you remember martin you had a similar problem however your compression was all fine when you done your car mine isnt and is very low on no.4 so its something odd... its nothing i can do and its not your fault may have been something i done....
like after we done compression tests on no.1 and no.4 and smelt through the two spark plug holes they did smell very different, no.1 smelt of fuel as it should but no.4 didnt smell of anything so maybe a naff injector....
if the 1ltr injectors are the same i will have them cleaned, and then rebuild the 1ltr head with some home made work then when im ready i will swap the cams and fit the head, maybe some fun cams...
however i will have to get my car off the road and i dont want to do anymore damage than is already done so i am looking for a vvvvvvv cheap car to get me through about a month or two
but if you remember martin you had a similar problem however your compression was all fine when you done your car mine isnt and is very low on no.4 so its something odd... its nothing i can do and its not your fault may have been something i done....
like after we done compression tests on no.1 and no.4 and smelt through the two spark plug holes they did smell very different, no.1 smelt of fuel as it should but no.4 didnt smell of anything so maybe a naff injector....
if the 1ltr injectors are the same i will have them cleaned, and then rebuild the 1ltr head with some home made work then when im ready i will swap the cams and fit the head, maybe some fun cams...
however i will have to get my car off the road and i dont want to do anymore damage than is already done so i am looking for a vvvvvvv cheap car to get me through about a month or two
OP
OP
thanks for the tips guys, now that my micra is in the garden waiting for workies which i will start this week oncde my college work is done (PRIORITIES)
and for those of you that said its not i will get an examle of how its ruunning because the 4th cylinder is doing something but not creating power hence its making the engine lumpy but not overly
and a massive thanks to R-REG-SR for letting me use his SR which is a great help feels nice to have the boating suspension and steelies again in an odd way haha i have it for 3 weeks for now and if its needed for longer we can settle it out and a massive thank you again mate...
now my plan for now is to get a torque wrentch which i need lol...
test the injectors using stanis method which the spark etc.... using multimeter etc make sure all injectors are doing as they must, trying to find out what is going on....
get the head off, stip it down to nothing.... check the condition of the valves specially in no.4 check that its all straight and not burnt out etc...
then once all sorted it will go for a 1.5mm to 2mm head skim, and maybe the 3 point valve seating method.... lap them all in and do a head leakage test using parafin etc
clean the entire head an ensure there is no debris etc.... hopefully get myself some auto sprint cams recommended by frank...
check condition of all the parts and fit into head and have fully assembled head which is timed up to cylinder 1 to top dead centre....
get the injectors ultrasonicly cleaned and refit them to the manfifold then reassemble it all and cross my fingers and then check that its all firing well and then recheck everything even the compression...
that is my plan of action obviously it will all change and most likely go horribly wrong!
wish me luck guys
and for those of you that said its not i will get an examle of how its ruunning because the 4th cylinder is doing something but not creating power hence its making the engine lumpy but not overly
and a massive thanks to R-REG-SR for letting me use his SR which is a great help feels nice to have the boating suspension and steelies again in an odd way haha i have it for 3 weeks for now and if its needed for longer we can settle it out and a massive thank you again mate...
now my plan for now is to get a torque wrentch which i need lol...
test the injectors using stanis method which the spark etc.... using multimeter etc make sure all injectors are doing as they must, trying to find out what is going on....
get the head off, stip it down to nothing.... check the condition of the valves specially in no.4 check that its all straight and not burnt out etc...
then once all sorted it will go for a 1.5mm to 2mm head skim, and maybe the 3 point valve seating method.... lap them all in and do a head leakage test using parafin etc
clean the entire head an ensure there is no debris etc.... hopefully get myself some auto sprint cams recommended by frank...
check condition of all the parts and fit into head and have fully assembled head which is timed up to cylinder 1 to top dead centre....
get the injectors ultrasonicly cleaned and refit them to the manfifold then reassemble it all and cross my fingers and then check that its all firing well and then recheck everything even the compression...
that is my plan of action obviously it will all change and most likely go horribly wrong!
wish me luck guys
OP
OP
thanks for the tips guys, now that my micra is in the garden waiting for workies which i will start this week oncde my college work is done (PRIORITIES)
and for those of you that said its not i will get an examle of how its ruunning because the 4th cylinder is doing something but not creating power hence its making the engine lumpy but not overly
and a massive thanks to R-REG-SR for letting me use his SR which is a great help feels nice to have the boating suspension and steelies again in an odd way haha i have it for 3 weeks for now and if its needed for longer we can settle it out and a massive thank you again mate...
now my plan for now is to get a torque wrentch which i need lol...
test the injectors using stanis method which the spark etc.... using multimeter etc make sure all injectors are doing as they must, trying to find out what is going on....
get the head off, stip it down to nothing.... check the condition of the valves specially in no.4 check that its all straight and not burnt out etc...
then once all sorted it will go for a 1.5mm to 2mm head skim, and maybe the 3 point valve seating method.... lap them all in and do a head leakage test using parafin etc
clean the entire head an ensure there is no debris etc.... hopefully get myself some auto sprint cams recommended by frank...
check condition of all the parts and fit into head and have fully assembled head which is timed up to cylinder 1 to top dead centre....
get the injectors ultrasonicly cleaned and refit them to the manfifold then reassemble it all and cross my fingers and then check that its all firing well and then recheck everything even the compression...
that is my plan of action obviously it will all change and most likely go horribly wrong!
wish me luck guys
and for those of you that said its not i will get an examle of how its ruunning because the 4th cylinder is doing something but not creating power hence its making the engine lumpy but not overly
and a massive thanks to R-REG-SR for letting me use his SR which is a great help feels nice to have the boating suspension and steelies again in an odd way haha i have it for 3 weeks for now and if its needed for longer we can settle it out and a massive thank you again mate...
now my plan for now is to get a torque wrentch which i need lol...
test the injectors using stanis method which the spark etc.... using multimeter etc make sure all injectors are doing as they must, trying to find out what is going on....
get the head off, stip it down to nothing.... check the condition of the valves specially in no.4 check that its all straight and not burnt out etc...
then once all sorted it will go for a 1.5mm to 2mm head skim, and maybe the 3 point valve seating method.... lap them all in and do a head leakage test using parafin etc
clean the entire head an ensure there is no debris etc.... hopefully get myself some auto sprint cams recommended by frank...
check condition of all the parts and fit into head and have fully assembled head which is timed up to cylinder 1 to top dead centre....
get the injectors ultrasonicly cleaned and refit them to the manfifold then reassemble it all and cross my fingers and then check that its all firing well and then recheck everything even the compression...
that is my plan of action obviously it will all change and most likely go horribly wrong!
wish me luck guys
OP
OP
bent valve is what im expecting, im hoping not to find any contact marks or abnormal burning marks where if the injector has messed up or the mapping is out and has burnt out the valves etc.... if that has happened i will do my very best to find out whats wrong with the mapping....
what is the best way of testing the injectors?
what is the best way of testing the injectors?
yeh mate 3 weeks is the best i could do,,
sure you'll solve it,,,i had a three cylinder prob when the throttle body was screwd
still try the inject first ,then i would clean all the pins in the plugs male/female around the throttle bodie,,paying closer attention to the air flow meter one,,,,,,,remember the sr is for you to roll in gently,,no parts swap test nothing! sweet
:grinning:
sure you'll solve it,,,i had a three cylinder prob when the throttle body was screwd
still try the inject first ,then i would clean all the pins in the plugs male/female around the throttle bodie,,paying closer attention to the air flow meter one,,,,,,,remember the sr is for you to roll in gently,,no parts swap test nothing! sweet
:grinning:
OP
OP
right ran some furthur compression tests on the dot tonight... done them all dry and then a second with about a table spoon of oil down the plug hole just to help seal it up a bit maybe...
ill let images do the talking
CYLINDER 1 DRY
CYLINDER 1 WET
CYLINDER 2 DRY
CYLINDER 2 WET
CYLINDER 3 DRY
CYLINDER 3 WET
CYLINDER 4 DRY
CYLINDER 4 WET
notice the difference this rules out that the piston rings are failing due to the fact that the oil would almost certinally help it seal here and give a better improvement...
and i started it up once complete just to check its okay and then burnt off all that oil lol
ill let images do the talking
CYLINDER 1 DRY
CYLINDER 1 WET
CYLINDER 2 DRY
CYLINDER 2 WET
CYLINDER 3 DRY
CYLINDER 3 WET
CYLINDER 4 DRY
CYLINDER 4 WET
notice the difference this rules out that the piston rings are failing due to the fact that the oil would almost certinally help it seal here and give a better improvement...
and i started it up once complete just to check its okay and then burnt off all that oil lol
OP
OP
umn well ill check all the valves i will strip it all down anyway might attack it with a dremmel just to port it a little... then get the valves re ground maybe replace if bent or burnt out etc..... but i doubt its the hg personally well i dont think i get the full feel of the 1.3 yet as its been running rough since fitment
OP
OP
as i said before valves, as i am not burning oil or coolant and i know where my coolant is going anyway and thats on the floor haha lol....
it can either be, a crack in head or block :S
bent valve or valves
or burnt out melted valve cause by that cylinder getting stupidly HOT
overall :down:
it can either be, a crack in head or block :S
bent valve or valves
or burnt out melted valve cause by that cylinder getting stupidly HOT
overall :down:
OP
OP
yes indeed! bit daunting removing the cylinder head in about 4 hours in the dark
i understand finding the tdc point on the crank pully.... so when i go up top i will then use like tip ex or paint to mark the chain, sprocket and cam? is this okay? as long as the marks like up again and the chain stays in situ on the middle sprocket
i understand finding the tdc point on the crank pully.... so when i go up top i will then use like tip ex or paint to mark the chain, sprocket and cam? is this okay? as long as the marks like up again and the chain stays in situ on the middle sprocket
OP
OP
after a long battle and a mess the head is finally off finished about half 10 haha.... taking it into work tomorrow for a propper look etc.... i must admit no.4 is much darker than the rest...
while the head is off im going to fit my other water pump and replace the o ring to stop that leak....
but yes im very annoyed that it seems to me that i bought i duffed enginegrrgrrgrrgrrgrrgrrgrr:down::down::down::down::down::down::down::down::down::glare::glare::glare::glare::glare::glare:
i will deffo need help refitting it as i can do most of it except from the timing and i know if its every so slightly wrong im stuffed so pleas ehelp me i will be able to pay you!
while the head is off im going to fit my other water pump and replace the o ring to stop that leak....
but yes im very annoyed that it seems to me that i bought i duffed engine
grrgrrgrrgrrgrrgrrgrr:down::down::down::down::down::down::down::down::down::glare::glare::glare::glare::glare::glare:i will deffo need help refitting it as i can do most of it except from the timing and i know if its every so slightly wrong im stuffed so pleas ehelp me i will be able to pay you!
OP
OP
well i can say its deffinately the valve look :suspect:
right well yes its rather nackered my plan is not to go about repairing this head and getting new vsalves as i dont have the money and it would mean reshimming once valve seat grinding done etc....
i am going to run a compression test on the 1ltr at the weekend to see what state thats in.... hope the compression is good if it is ill whip that off and clean it a bit and use that with the cams swapped.....
but yet i am very ####ed off that martin sold me a fuffed engine and will be contacting him but i dont wanna like annoy him cos i know hes a good guy and we get on well etc... but im not gnna sit back etc...
thing is that he said the head looks like its done about 50-60k and that going by the wear on the bad valve it appears to have been like this for a long time just wearing down furthur... and this guy isnt an idiot and knows what hes talking about
and he calls my valves pennies on cocktail sticks as hes used to these hentch exhaust valves from the jags (this one from a 3.8
lool loool:laugh:
right well yes its rather nackered my plan is not to go about repairing this head and getting new vsalves as i dont have the money and it would mean reshimming once valve seat grinding done etc....
i am going to run a compression test on the 1ltr at the weekend to see what state thats in.... hope the compression is good if it is ill whip that off and clean it a bit and use that with the cams swapped.....
but yet i am very ####ed off that martin sold me a fuffed engine and will be contacting him but i dont wanna like annoy him cos i know hes a good guy and we get on well etc... but im not gnna sit back etc...
thing is that he said the head looks like its done about 50-60k and that going by the wear on the bad valve it appears to have been like this for a long time just wearing down furthur... and this guy isnt an idiot and knows what hes talking about
and he calls my valves pennies on cocktail sticks as hes used to these hentch exhaust valves from the jags (this one from a 3.8
lool loool:laugh:
Stani1029
Club Member
Unlucky mate, what you think has happened to the valve? With regards to your timing is really easy. With the head off i turn the engine over until the dot on the middle sprocket meets any of the coloured links (2 coloured links on the bottom chain them being 18 links apart) and set it to top dead centre. Give the upper chain a clean if you cant make out the coloured links. If you still cant make them out trust me on this one, just scratch the face of one link or colour with permanant marker, this will be your inlet cam mark, then move 6 links clockwise and the one you land on there is your exhaust cam mark then move 8 links clockwise and mark that one, this will be the mark that hooks up to the dot on the 2nd sprocket of the middle pulley. So with the engine at TDC put the 2nd chain on with dot on the pulley to the coloured link and hold it up and tight. Then fit the head and put in the cams pointing the lobes for piston number 1 outwards. You can now put the sprockets into the chain (dot-coloured link) and hook and bolt them to the cams.
Oh ######, sorry to see that mate!
That valve looks like its been hitting the piston eh. Have you checked the condition of the valve spring? A soft valve spring at high revs might cause this to happen...How hard have you been revving this engine Will!?
Good excuse to fit some 1.0 pistons though eh
In martin's defense, when i drove his car with this engine it ran very well! It certainly wasnt low on compression then (not long before he stripped the car), i think you have just been a bit unlucky here mate Not to mention the fact that im 100% sure martin wouldnt knowingly sell you a broken engine.
Keep us updated on the progress.
That valve looks like its been hitting the piston eh. Have you checked the condition of the valve spring? A soft valve spring at high revs might cause this to happen...How hard have you been revving this engine Will!?
Good excuse to fit some 1.0 pistons though eh
In martin's defense, when i drove his car with this engine it ran very well! It certainly wasnt low on compression then (not long before he stripped the car), i think you have just been a bit unlucky here mate
Not to mention the fact that im 100% sure martin wouldnt knowingly sell you a broken engine. Keep us updated on the progress.
OP
OP
for the method of timing stated seems as though i need to remove the timing cover etc and i cant be had with that! my plan was to simply set back at tdc and then line the cams up with my sprocket marks :S haha and i will get more pics tomorrow
but im just so un confident with the timing i dunno if ill be able to do it
but im just so un confident with the timing i dunno if ill be able to do it
OP
OP
for the method of timing stated seems as though i need to remove the timing cover etc and i cant be had with that! my plan was to simply set back at tdc and then line the cams up with my sprocket marks :S haha and i will get more pics tomorrow
but im just so un confident with the timing i dunno if ill be able to do it
but im just so un confident with the timing i dunno if ill be able to do it
Stani1029
Club Member
You wont need to remove the bottom cover, you should see the middle pulley easily with the head off. Turn the engine over by hand until its at TDC and any of the 2 coloured links lines up with the dot. Then start rebuilding the engine following what i said and using the diagram frank has put up. Honestly its easy
martinb
Ex. Club Member
You've completely ignored my question will
I also don't like the fact you've publically said I've sold you a "duff" engine. I would never sell a duff engine let alone try to fit one at that
The engine was fine in mine and fine in yours when fitted, apart from "your" idling issue and the leak you drove away no problems, no complaints
Valves don't just wear to a crack in the side, it's whacked the piston, my thoughts are the valves have been bouncing by going past the rev limit
I told you the engine had the de restricter mod done, you knew there wasnt any "safety" in place after 6800rpm so it's up to you to stop flooring it
If it's my fault I'll replace what's broken but it's hard to believe I sold you something so "screwed" when 6 other people drove my car and sat there watching it idle for around an hour.
I didn't want to have to say this on here but seeing as it's open speech and my name keeps getting brought up I thought I'd return the favour!
I also don't like the fact you've publically said I've sold you a "duff" engine. I would never sell a duff engine let alone try to fit one at that
The engine was fine in mine and fine in yours when fitted, apart from "your" idling issue and the leak you drove away no problems, no complaints
Valves don't just wear to a crack in the side, it's whacked the piston, my thoughts are the valves have been bouncing by going past the rev limit
I told you the engine had the de restricter mod done, you knew there wasnt any "safety" in place after 6800rpm so it's up to you to stop flooring it
If it's my fault I'll replace what's broken but it's hard to believe I sold you something so "screwed" when 6 other people drove my car and sat there watching it idle for around an hour.
I didn't want to have to say this on here but seeing as it's open speech and my name keeps getting brought up I thought I'd return the favour!
OP
OP
Im not blaming u but from the moment go with then engine in my car i said it ran lumpy and in all fairness ive been worried bout it asking people i know if they can narrow it down! And they couldnt and you said it was due to the flywheel which it cant have been as the idle hasnt changed since we fitted it.
And ill get pics tommorow as its dark!
And ill get pics tommorow as its dark!
gtsnissanb
Official MSC Trader
What size engine is it? I'm guessing a 1300cc? If it's a 1000cc I have one for sale I can't guarantee it though as I haven't used it
Its a 1.3 bro.
OP
OP
My main aim is to get it sorted for now then im sure me and martin can sort it out hes an awesom guy!
I dont particually wanna buy another engine eh im going to use 1000cc head with the 1275 cams and then sort it out but will need to find pennies for hg, head bolts and coolant again! I know people say is okay to reuse this stuff but i dont wanna risk it!
As i need the car everyday i cant have it failing on me
I dont particually wanna buy another engine eh im going to use 1000cc head with the 1275 cams and then sort it out but will need to find pennies for hg, head bolts and coolant again! I know people say is okay to reuse this stuff but i dont wanna risk it!
As i need the car everyday i cant have it failing on me
OP
OP
My main aim is to get it sorted for now then im sure me and martin can sort it out hes an awesom guy!
I dont particually wanna buy another engine eh im going to use 1000cc head with the 1275 cams and then sort it out but will need to find pennies for hg, head bolts and coolant again! I know people say is okay to reuse this stuff but i dont wanna risk it!
As i need the car everyday i cant have it failing on me
I dont particually wanna buy another engine eh im going to use 1000cc head with the 1275 cams and then sort it out but will need to find pennies for hg, head bolts and coolant again! I know people say is okay to reuse this stuff but i dont wanna risk it!
As i need the car everyday i cant have it failing on me
Is the piston ok then!? the valve hadnt dented it?
OP
OP
the piston is fine i checked today i can show photogrsaphic proof if needed... upon furthur investigation both the exhaust springs on 4 were really shabby like theyve been bounding about for a while...
today i ripped off my 998cc head and it look spankin clean as if it hasnt done its 60k odd whereas the one which has low milage looks rank i will get pics up asap! its not looking good and i havent done a single oil change on my 998cc engine the whole time ive owned it....
today i ripped off my 998cc head and it look spankin clean as if it hasnt done its 60k odd whereas the one which has low milage looks rank i will get pics up asap! its not looking good and i havent done a single oil change on my 998cc engine the whole time ive owned it....
