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My long promised blog

Last update for today.
They're not finished but here's pictures of gtir brakes :)
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JoeK11 said:
My only thought is the fuel lines look quite taut and might tug loose with engine movement over rough ground and revving? Looks good otherwise :)
Click to expand...
I thought that. The pictures make em appear really tight up but they're not :) and if they really need to pull loose then the fuel filter will pop out its clip.
My engines on nylon bushes so it doesn't move much :p
 
Now here's something I forgot. Something custom made for me by our Ed
20130605_161520_zpse6b2509f.jpg

They're tie bars for my engine subframe. So I need to get them on. But as I'm going to be popping the engine out at some point soon. I'll leave it til its back in :)
 
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Here's your parts required
You need:
-Hydraulic Handbrake
-Master cylinder (0.625 is plenty big enough)
-Brake pipe. I opted for 3/16" copper
-Fittings
--1x T-piece
--Male and Female 'brake nuts' (I opted for the 3/8 x 24tpi UNF a pack of ten is more than enough)
-7/16 to 3/16 male reducer nut
-PTFE tape (to seal your joints.. because why skimp on something like the brakes?.. its 90p a roll)
- 2 metres of 3/16" I.D brake pipe (doesnt have to be braided but it must be brake pipe. Brakes = 1000's of psi, fuel = 10's psi, i hve fuel pipe here as a temporary measure)
- 9-11mm jubilee clips
- Rubber grommet assortment
- P-Clips

Tools
- Pipe flarer. Absolute must
- Pipe bender (optional really)
- Pipe cutter (or fine toothed hacksaw)
- Marker pen
- String (absolutely invaluable)
-Thread lock
- Your usual car toolbox (you need an 11mm / 7/16 spanner in there)
 
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So let's begin.
First up mount the handbrake. This I can't help much with as every car is different but post me a picture up and I can try and advise where to put it :)
Here's mine
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Quick bit of info for you about the master cylinder
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The rear hole is the feed side and the front hole is the output side. Its backwards but thats how it is :)
Once its mounted you need to pop your 7/16s reducer on and flare your pipe
20130701_075905_zpsb15b62a6.jpg

Then wrap the first 3 or 4 threads closest to the bolt head in PTFE. Or whatever you prefer. And bolt it into the feed side of the your master cylinder
20130704_144759_zps5615cb05.jpg

Then bend the pipes how you need em
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Now wielding 25ft of copper pipe isnt easy so time to cut it down. I had mine poking out the firewall through a grommet. So I measured from this grommet back to a point I picked at random.
I then laid the tape out and cut the string at this length
20130704_145219_zps2316dc10.jpg

Then tape the string at the point you measured to.. mine was here
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Then trace the string along the copper pipe... slow and steady and dont pull the string off the pipe or it will throw the measurement out. Then mark the end
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Prepare to cut
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There's a knack to this... dont just wind it tight and turn or you'll end up pushing the sidewall creating a D shape. Wind it so it bites and do a quarter turn. Spin the cutter... quarter turn... spin the cutter etc until you end up with a clean cut
20130704_145849_zpsc68afeb7.jpg

Then trace your pipe through your selected grommet. Then flare a fitting on. I used a female fitting :)
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Repeat the flaring process for your outlet pipe
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I ran my outlet pipe into a T-Piece
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Then I continued to trace my pipework to the rear
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I drilled holes behind the fuel tank. Take care to definitely avoid the fuel tank
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Once you've lined the pipe up you need to bead the end (a bead is a half of a flare. So instead of winding your flaring tool all the way only do half)
Pop grommets in the holes and bend your pipe with a 90 up then a 180 down. One single 90 down wont work it puts too much stressed on the pipe and you risk kinking it.
My grommets went walkies so I put some polyurethane vac pipe around my copper pipe temporarily. Hopefully you've got the grommets to be used ;)
Next attach your brake pipe on the beaded end and and clip it down (my little clips haven't turned up so I've used bigger ones for now)
20130704_213650_zpsdbb5349f.jpg

That's as far as I've got... it got too dark to be messing with attaching the pipes up so that's tomorrow. But it's a start :)
 
So a little update
Thanks to frank and andy (enuo) pointing out the obvious to me last night that my 80amp fuse was surviving 150+ amp cold crank amperage there's something not quite right
Sometimes the hardest things to spot are the most obvious

So I set about this morning testing my wiring and my set up
Battery came out @: 12.45v which isn't bad considering it hardly ever gets used
20130710_120837_zps96072f89.jpg


Then I tested the cca of my starter which came out at a measly 59/60amps. Starter turns over like the battery is almost flat. Which I assumed it was so thought nothing more
No picture here its hard enough holding the two multimeter prongs

Traced all wires and the starter isn't getting the full 12.45v from the battery.
I changed some terminals over tightened some connection and cleaned up others.
Tested the starter this time and a full 12.45v at the starter.
Engine start button pressed pop went the fuse.
Now defused my battery wire and it cranks over sweet...

I guess we call that problem solved ;)
 
h701micra said:
So a little update
Thanks to frank and andy (enuo) pointing out the obvious to me last night that my 80amp fuse was surviving 150+ amp cold crank amperage there's something not quite right
Sometimes the hardest things to spot are the most obvious

So I set about this morning testing my wiring and my set up
Battery came out @: 12.45v which isn't bad considering it hardly ever gets used
20130710_120837_zps96072f89.jpg


Then I tested the cca of my starter which came out at a measly 59/60amps. Starter turns over like the battery is almost flat. Which I assumed it was so thought nothing more
No picture here its hard enough holding the two multimeter prongs

Traced all wires and the starter isn't getting the full 12.45v from the battery.
I changed some terminals over tightened some connection and cleaned up others.
Tested the starter this time and a full 12.45v at the starter.
Engine start button pressed pop went the fuse.
Now defused my battery wire and it cranks over sweet...

I guess we call that problem solved ;)
Click to expand...
Spot on mate, poor connection at a terminal or plug at those amps is a fire hazard eh :) glad it's better. Also still good to know it'll crank over on 60 amps, engine must run like a sewing machine :)
 
Enuo said:
Spot on mate, poor connection at a terminal or plug at those amps is a fire hazard eh :) glad it's better. Also still good to know it'll crank over on 60 amps, engine must run like a sewing machine :)
Click to expand...
Exactly that which is my worst fear. So I'm glad ive caught it and secured it :)
Engine runs really well I'm impressed considering its 100k+ and never looked after until I got hold of it :)
I've just uploaded a couple of videos of it. Its overfueling as I believe my auto choke has packed in
 
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I'd love one. My k10 was auto choke and this ga is auto choke so I just plumbed it straight in :)
I wont be repairing it... will be going manual
 
h701micra said:
Now here's something I forgot. Something custom made for me by our Ed
20130605_161520_zpse6b2509f.jpg

They're tie bars for my engine subframe. So I need to get them on. But as I'm going to be popping the engine out at some point soon. I'll leave it til its back in :)
Click to expand...

Haaa! I love that just gunna "pop" the engine out teehee :p
X
 
You can... just learn to catch big heavy items :p
I undo my engine and pick the car up :D if I can pick it up it can't weigh much
 
I must admit the times ive dropped my engine onto its trolley and picked the shell up... then realised I cant move the engine without my hands... I've lost count :p
 
Oops... battery voltage a tad low
20130712_121314_zps6b041081.jpg

Yes ok I left it on overnight with the sidelights on
Deapite having a killswitch, mains switch and a battery live indicator
...
Fail
 
Belly93 said:
Whats this battery live indicator?
Click to expand...
Its a light that comes on to say the battery is live. It is meant linked to a volt meter (I broke the screen so a new one required) also plugs into the door switch aswel, the buzzer that normally goes off if you leave your lights on, now goes off if I leave the kill switch active
..
Except Wednesday I was climbing in and out the window to avoid having little man jump in
 
Gave my internals a bit of a cleanup.. well my other ga16
Midway
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Before and after
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A nice shiny set
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With them fairly clean I'll get the rods off to be shot peened. Will order another set of ARP rod bolts to go on these too
£150 spent and this ga16 is turbo ready :)
 
Absolutely :) just the front left to plumb in. I'll put it all up in one last section on the guide.
Just need to pop my engine out to gain access to all the brake lines :)
 
Working away on a Sunday morning
Listening to Avicii - Wake me up
Singing along quite loud
Aint care coz rally car :D
Happy micra times
 
Further searching for mappable ignition on a budget. I came across "stealth" by accuspark.
I'm sure I've seen it before but I glossed over it.
Its more directed at race use with no vacuum advance facility
But at a cost of £100... its worth a look :)
Link for those interested:
http://www.accuspark.co.uk/Blackbox.htm
 
its only 2D tho eh andy, basically does the same as the bob weights as far as i can see, and you can alter your dwell by adjusting the points gap anyway :)
 
I'd not read into that much but thanks for that Frank :)
Been looking at the nodiz standalone ecu. Not worked with one before. Doesn't use the edis system like the megajolt.
Any opinions/experience?
 

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