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My long promised blog

Enuo said:
Magnetic is cheaper, optical can be set more accurately, or so I've read. I don't see how it makes that much of a difference. Just magnetic can be thrown off by iron filings but optical can be thrown off by anything opaque.
Click to expand...
Iron filings are opaque :p
So I could take this magnetic setup out and use points? Except ive no vac advance
 
Vac advance is only really to give a more stable idle, I blocked off my vac advance on the lucas dizzy in my spit as it was messing up the timing, could set the springs and bobbin weights more accurately without it
 
Enuo said:
oh and yes you can use it, just mod the trigger wheel and sensor to fit.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the help
Couldn't find an oe dizzy so I was panicking about my engine
I'll use the sensor... just need to know what those 5 wires are now so I know which wire is which. 12v supply, ground or signal etc I know one is rpm
 
If one is rpm you need a unit with a map, as the rpm signal will be to advance/retard ignition where in older dizzys it would be done by a bobbin weights on springs flying out at speed and moving the points operating cam around.
 
I was under the impression the rpm wire sent a signal to a tacho gauge. That little box I'm after deals with that stuff... not sure about mapping. I'll read into it a bit more
 
h701micra said:
Thanks for the help
Couldn't find an oe dizzy so I was panicking about my engine
I'll use the sensor... just need to know what those 5 wires are now so I know which wire is which. 12v supply, ground or signal etc I know one is rpm
Click to expand...
the nats and no-nats wiring jpeg,s that are floating around show which wire goes where andy :)
 
I always wired the tacho off the coil :-s Perhaps there is more than one type of tacho? Best way to tell is remove your current trigger wheel and see if the sensor is solid or is sprung and can move. Former will need a mappable/mapped ignition unit, latter just a coil and switchgear stuff
 
scratch that, if it has vac advance fitted it will anyway. hmm... have to look for sprung bobbin weights under the trigger wheel/sensor assembly
 
Enuo said:
I always wired the tacho off the coil :-s Perhaps there is more than one type of tacho? Best way to tell is remove your current trigger wheel and see if the sensor is solid or is sprung and can move. Former will need a mappable/mapped ignition unit, latter just a coil and switchgear stuff
Click to expand...
Yea my tacho runs off my coil too. Just the electronic clocks + a wire called rpm I just added 2 and 2 and probably got 5 here

See if the sensor is sprung in what way? Similar to points movement with the bobbin weights?
 
Enuo said:
scratch that, if it has vac advance fitted it will anyway. hmm... have to look for sprung bobbin weights under the trigger wheel/sensor assembly
Click to expand...
I've two dizzys the ds dizzy has weights and vac advance. This de dizzy has none. Just this sensor and it doesn't move either... so needs a map
 
h701micra said:
Yea my tacho runs off my coil too. Just the electronic clocks + a wire called rpm I just added 2 and 2 and probably got 5 here

See if the sensor is sprung in what way? Similar to points movement with the bobbin weights?
Click to expand...
Yes mate, if theres no internal control of advance in dizzy then its done by map. I'm 90% sure needs an ecu though
 
20130605_221954_zpsba31df87.jpg

It used to have an ecu.. that's why I want that box thing :)
 
So I've just been and had another play with my ignition set up. I dont want to believe my distributor just stopped working just like that from running perfect.
Any tips to test the dizzy?
I took it out its place. Earthed a plug and turned the dizzy by hand got no spark. Ignition was on. It did spark when I put the dizzy itself near the block so its getting power.
Tested my battery voltage (12.10v) tested coil (11.20v) battery is mounted behind drivers seat and has 2 breaks (kill switch & firewall join) which may explain voltage loss.
Do continuity tests work on ht leads because every lead I own has no continuity?
All LT wires are fine
Cap and rotor arm tested for continuity. Rotor arm posotioned on each contact and tested for continuity from king lead slot to each ht slot. All good
Spark plugs are new not even sparked yet :p
So now I'm stuck... maybe I'm missing something obvious?
 
I'll get the meter out on my dizzy tomorrow midday if you get no better response by then, see whats what Nd report
 
Got my little paperweight a gift yesterday
20130609_185604_zps7f5770eb.jpg


Well I got it 2.. magnecor leads.. but they didnt have them in so posting them to me

Call it a paperweight because it still won't start. Still without a functioning distributor
 
So these finally arrived 2 weeks later
20130621_142340_zpsf734d1b6.jpg

Simple fit so I popped out and plonked them on the car that wont spark :p
20130621_141249_zpsc30dcf59.jpg

They don't include a king lead in the set which is a bit of a joke really but ah well I'll get one sorted.. oe one for now
20130621_141256_zps9a092e67.jpg

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Even included a free sticker
 
So I started prepping my car for jae.
First I sprayed the oe airbox.
Here it is:
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Cleaned, sanded and sprayed
20130621_154453_zps492b55c3.jpg

Plus the catches
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Waited for it to dry so had a rummage in my many boxes of spares and mocked an inlet for it
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20130621_174805_zps3f14c3ce.jpg

Before you ask yes it is a trd track use sticker off my old celica
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Feel free to mock my insulation tape joints :) made it useable just incase I take it out for a drive and forget.
Gonna get it made out of alloy pipework and make so slots in the bonnet where I can to cool it :)

Gave me a nice list of things to do. Plus its going to cost a 1/6th of the cost of nissanubaru :) roll on jae
 
Made myself something today. Missed a few pictures out. So you've got the start and end :p
Started here
20130622_144553_zps622c4b84.jpg

Cleaned my tunnel up and moulded my metal :) the red spots are the result of my finger meeting a sharp edge
20130622_144600_zpscca18aef.jpg

20130622_144604_zps5615ac46.jpg


Finished product... already... just like that :D ignore my welding I've still got no gas :p
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20130622_170947_zps3edc5d0b.jpg

20130622_171025_zpsd00fe373.jpg
 
na i need t check it cos i had the dizzy off when i jetwashed the bay the other day lol, and the lil **** still wouldnt start after :(
 
Retard it to start with. Turn idle up slightly. Drop of petrol in each cylinder. Just to get it running then tweak it from there?
 
It runs now plugs were wet spark must have been tracking sown the block, and i marked the dizzy so it went back near just need checking
 
Well after having an emotional breakdown with my very precious k10 just all of a sudden stopping working. And nissanubaru funds incredibly low.
It was nice to get some post today
20130628_115520_zps0db825ff.jpg

The eagle eyed may have spotted this... dual vac. Nothing to do with turbo build at all :rolleyes:
20130628_115527_zps5b89e921.jpg
 
Got some other little bits and bobs for it too :)
20130628_130107_zpsee4592ec.jpg

Some pipe for my internal washer bottle... saves cramping myself under the dash with a jug of water

Some exhaust wrap for the turbo elbow.
New inline fuse as I've mpved my battery.
Some cable conduit for waterproofing my electrics and a box to house my spotlight relays.
All the little bits matter :)

And some NODSPEED STICKERS !!!! :D
 

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