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Stani1029
Club Member
Yeah ive a sunroof, drain points have been re-routed nit that it was ever going to stop what was already there
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- Thread starter Stani1029
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Yeah ive a sunroof, drain points have been re-routed nit that it was ever going to stop what was already there
SirChris
Educated Bodger
This is England. We never get Noice weather anymorethats the thing with rust,,,,,youd never want to seal moister in with the new repair. might be worth getting it re new'd in the dryer weather,, if we get any
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
rusty
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Stani1029
Club Member
Plans cancelled, went to fit the drop links last night at glens so we got my car on the ramp and took the wheels off. Firstly i noticed one of my rear HOL 50mm springs was snapped! So took it out and cleaned the spring seat on the axle and put a hole bigger than a £2 coin in it! So got screwdriver happy and went over the rest of the car and got another 2 holed areas so giving up here. I have until march to decide what im doing. May sell the complete car with all parts i have as it is 100% repairable! Pics to follow
If it's 100% repairable, what's the hold up?
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Stani1029
Club Member
Im just not willing to do patch after patch after patch. And i dont have the space or funds to strip it bare and do it the way i want it done
Sorry to hear that Stani
Quite a problem now with K11's getting old and the UK lust for salt We have some minor work on the driver's strut tower to do and have already restored the rear end, (incl a complete rear axle strip down), plus both rear sills, which is a lot more involving than gutting and stuffing on a patch like most garages do......that is if you still want rigidity to remain in that area.
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Stani1029
Club Member
Sorry to hear that Stani
We have some minor work on the driver's strut tower to do and have already restored the rear end, (incl a complete rear axle strip down), plus both rear sills, which is a lot more involving than gutting and stuffing on a patch like most garages do......that is if you still want rigidity to remain in that area.
I know, ive had higher mileage micras that have seen better days. This is my first facelift and to me its bad, so the plan is sell it for the right price if someone doesnt mind the odd patch here or there and if not look out for a non sunroof very low mileage 2002 plate and transfer everything over! Oh and poke it with screwdrivers before i hand any cash over lol
I've got a GoPro HD2 here if you ever want a shot of it
only condition is yah need to take me a run in it haha 
solarice
Ex. Club Member
Sorry to hear that Stani
Tell me about it they were gritting the roads while temps were well above freezing the other night a few weeks back...
That hole in the floor looks a canny size...totally sucks when you find crap like that.
If your breaking it at any point I'd like a shout on the engine
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Stani1029
Club Member
If your breaking it at any point I'd like a shout on the engine
And full turbo kit, ecu etc?
But then you'll have to go through all the hassle of either engine swap which isn't that long really or having to re turbo or swap the turbo stuff about either way a few wee dinky patches will sort it out, but I know where you are coming from I my car got jacked up and the sill under folded a bit and I was like **** this selling up. Haha
solarice
Ex. Club Member
Yeah, it was the same with the sills on mine, it looked like a quick small fix until i started jabbing at it...ended up replacing both sills and then the cross member, the insides weren't that bad considering. Arches would have needed some work as well if i wasn't already cutting them out.
There's definitely bits that should have been fastened / covered differently as they seem to attract moisture / salt / mud with gaps in the panels where the factory underseal / sound deadening / panel protecting stuff hasn't covered...and not a lot of people bother with the underside of the car, hell its seems difficult for some of them to wash under the arches.
I'd consider patching it up if you've got all the bits handy, gives you a bit more time to decide (worst case you've spent a few hours patching for no reason, though i guess It's for me to say that as i don't have the hassle of doing it) . While there are bound to be plenty on decent shells knocking about I think the only way you're gonna find a 100% guaranteed rust free shell is from someone who's already done the work on it (matts rally prepped one's for example).
There's definitely bits that should have been fastened / covered differently as they seem to attract moisture / salt / mud with gaps in the panels where the factory underseal / sound deadening / panel protecting stuff hasn't covered...and not a lot of people bother with the underside of the car, hell its seems difficult for some of them to wash under the arches.
I'd consider patching it up if you've got all the bits handy, gives you a bit more time to decide (worst case you've spent a few hours patching for no reason, though i guess It's for me to say that as i don't have the hassle of doing it)
. While there are bound to be plenty on decent shells knocking about I think the only way you're gonna find a 100% guaranteed rust free shell is from someone who's already done the work on it (matts rally prepped one's for example).
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Stani1029
Club Member
Ive had my arm twisted too far were going to go ahead with welding the car up. But first were going to make sure there isnt anymore hidden rust so ive bought a 12 pack of flappy grinding discs and were going to take back the whole underside and arches to the metal and work from there but fo it in stages as i still need the car. Today i had a few hours to get a better view of the 4 patches we know about, i took them back to the metal, applied kurust over a good few hours and then painted over temporarily. Heres how it looks at the moment:
N/S Front Footwell
N/S Rear Footwell
N/S Rear Wheel Arch
O/S Rear Wheel Arch
Once we get down to business ill be cutting back each area and we'll plate either side. Now from there is where i need advice on whats best to use to protect the whole cars underside.
In my head i thought either:
1: Primer-stonechip-paint-underseal
2: Stonechip-primer-paint-underseal
3: What order you say is best lol
Also threw my rear bumper on to see how it looks
N/S Front Footwell
N/S Rear Footwell
N/S Rear Wheel Arch
O/S Rear Wheel Arch
Once we get down to business ill be cutting back each area and we'll plate either side. Now from there is where i need advice on whats best to use to protect the whole cars underside.
In my head i thought either:
1: Primer-stonechip-paint-underseal
2: Stonechip-primer-paint-underseal
3: What order you say is best lol
Also threw my rear bumper on to see how it looks
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Stani1029
Club Member
Yeah drying stonechip
Fair play for sticking with it, when you see it like that, there is a bit of work to be done! Good luck
True and its not just the rust thats to be done for MOT.....
Boeshield T-9 for anything that requires penetration. It goes on like WD40 but dries unlike straight Waxoil, so it doesn't attract much dirt which is the trouble with anything that doesn't dry. It's especially good for bolts to avoid the usual corrosion scenarios or snapped off bolts.
For panels I mix Waxoil under-body seal with about 30% white spirit and spray on with a high pressure spray gun, the white spirit reduces the viscosity allowing a good spray, then evaporates away and leaves the underseal behind. It however goes on just as well with a brush, I only do it that way because it leaves a nicer finish and I have the gear to do it.
For panels I mix Waxoil under-body seal with about 30% white spirit and spray on with a high pressure spray gun, the white spirit reduces the viscosity allowing a good spray, then evaporates away and leaves the underseal behind. It however goes on just as well with a brush, I only do it that way because it leaves a nicer finish and I have the gear to do it.
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Stani1029
Club Member
Really? The ones that comes off my car were all flaky
