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seems odd for the belt would slip at such high revs tho stani ?? is your crank harmonic damper ok ? (the rubber can detach eh)
 
Nicely done stani :D

I really need to get a proper vid of mine, everytime its seems like a good time i've got nothing to hand to record lol.

I know when mine was dyno'd and overfueling they said it had alot more in it if the curve was sorted, so i can see how yours will be the same, once you sort the pesky injector issue. :)

Funny annoying other drivers though aint it lol.
 
solarice said:
Nicely done stani :D

I really need to get a proper vid of mine, everytime its seems like a good time i've got nothing to hand to record lol.

I know when mine was dyno'd and overfueling they said it had alot more in it if the curve was sorted, so i can see how yours will be the same, once you sort the pesky injector issue. :)

Funny annoying other drivers though aint it lol.
Click to expand...

It'd be good to see it kris, and he reckons he can get 140whp if it was spot on. Im still waiting on nistune registration so i can ask the questions on there forum.

It so much fun, an a4 estate driver was laughing in disbelief as i pulled passed him. Crail is what im looking forward to
 
Stani it's prob worth noting and mentioning to the tuner what I found about the keys in Nistune.

the minus and O key follow certain rules.

- minus key
only works in closed-loop cells between 128 to 255 raw value

O key (switch between open/closed loop)
if raw values between 0 - 63 (open-loop) = add 192 (close-loop region)

if raw values between 192 - 255 (closed-loop) = subtract 192 (open-loop region)

RAW values converted to A/F ratio
0 to 127 = 14.70 to 7.38 a/f open-loop
128 to 255 = 29.40 to 9.85 a/f closed-loop O2 corrected
 
pollyp said:
Stani it's prob worth noting and mentioning to the tuner what I found about the keys in Nistune.

the minus and O key follow certain rules.

- minus key
only works in closed-loop cells between 128 to 255 raw value

O key (switch between open/closed loop)
if raw values between 0 - 63 (open-loop) = add 192 (close-loop region)

if raw values between 192 - 255 (closed-loop) = subtract 192 (open-loop region)

RAW values converted to A/F ratio
0 to 127 = 14.70 to 7.38 a/f open-loop
128 to 255 = 29.40 to 9.85 a/f closed-loop O2 corrected
Click to expand...

Ahh paul thats great thanks!
 
IT'S BROKE!

Last night my drivers wiper arm just suddenly shot off the side of the windscreen and rested on the wing mirror. Now im hoping its nothing under the scuttle panel as once it pops off there it's a constant thing so needs replaced.

However we've had a lot of Ice recently and on a couple occasions I forgot to free the wipers before moving and the other day the drivers side was stuck with the ice and the passenger arm was moving but all I had to do was refit the arm to the mechanism, now I think it's took the thread but at the same time It wasn't ice this time, I was just driving along with the wipers on and boom it shot off.

As for the car it's still working great but I do wish the wet conditions would go away so I can enjoy it more! Just a few tweaks needed to the mapping,

#Going to run 14psi (wether it's safe or not we,ll find out)
#Up the rev limit to the 6,900 it should be (currently 6,300ish and it bogs down slightly at each gear change, or could it be the lightened flywheel causing this too?)
#Adjust the fuel curve so that Russ is happy with it (now that we got info from polly)

Beforehand I'm going to get an oil cooler from matt humphris
Re-torque the head bolts (was meant to do this ages ago!)
Oil and filter change (was also meant to do this about 1000 miles ago!)
Tidy up the new and long fuel feed/return pipes
 
Glad you got it mapped and running well now, 12psi looks like a lot of fun:)
What's your prediction for the 1/4 mile, plan to beat your own record?
 
I heard im in for banzai's car of the year, winning would be good but being in the shortlist is good enough. Not entirely sure how its voted for but would love everyones votes please once i find out how its decided :D

Bonus Pic
5BCA578C-7F8E-4C02-A738-207FBBB66343-741-000000BFB61A304B.jpg
 
Walter said:
These wheels looks really good! do you can tell me what size and ET have these wheels? also what tires are you using with these? Thanks!
Click to expand...

14'' reveresed steels, if i remember correctly there ET5 on the back with 175/50 and ET15 on the front with 185/55
 
SirChris said:
What have you lost against?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

Nothing yet lol forgot to add the 2007 audi a4 estate 2.0tdi to that list. As soon as i hit crail ill get my ass handed to me, id like a 13 second but i somehow think its a mid-low 14 sec car
 
hey im from near you in auchtermuchty love to turbo the micra which turbo setup would you say is the best/easiest to do T2, TD04 or any other...i know u picked the td04 but i dont really want to move the alternator do u think if you moved it to top mount it would work better to even when the manifold is modified if it was tilted out and right? im wanting to get around 220bhp in the end
 
RyanEllis said:
hey im from near you in auchtermuchty love to turbo the micra which turbo setup would you say is the best/easiest to do T2, TD04 or any other...i know u picked the td04 but i dont really want to move the alternator do u think if you moved it to top mount it would work better to even when the manifold is modified if it was tilted out and right? im wanting to get around 220bhp in the end
Click to expand...

Im always passing through auchtermuchty in my work van lol The easiest would be to buy a kit thats already made for it wether that's an HKS one or one that somebody has already put together. I picked a TD04 because of how close the ports matched between the glanza/micra engines. And I certainly wasn't going to use the small ct9 turbo. Even with the top mount alternator I don't think it will work in without modification. Unless someone has a picture of a top mounted alternator on a bare engine so I can see I wouldn't know. And yes the flange on the manifold where the turbo bolts on could be modified in any direction for more clearance
 
Happy new year!

The last week or so ive handed in my bumpers (for track use) and new drivers door handle for spraying as my mate accidently broke mine, ive also had some reg plates made up for track. Also got my hands on a set of pulsar calipers/discs an pads and ive bought new rear cylinders/shoes and spring kit as ive not replaced them yet. While im there ive to swap the passenger wheel bearing as previously ive swapped the drivers aide twice but sue to my dodgy hearing it turns out it was the passenger side the 2nd time LOL

010C523C-BCDC-42FD-8636-797FD42C936F-4496-0000033AD67CBC2D.jpg

F2F115A5-89B4-4C67-BD06-89DB330B886B-4496-0000033B6294BD88.jpg

AD0436D0-F5B7-4036-8534-4A7E57941BE2-4496-0000033B7810BF32.jpg
 
Antony said:
voted stan, if everyone on here votes you should win by a mile.
Click to expand...

Cheers mate! And theres no way everyone will vote but at the moment i reckon i have over 50 so far. Its hard to know the approx votes needed ro be at the top. Could be 1000.....

Changed my wheel bearing tonight, what a difference!

 
Picking up my bumpers tomorrow :)
image-8_zps8cfe799f.jpg


With regards to the anti roll bars im getting off hoodedreaper ive bought new front links and rear droplinks just to be replace them really. MOT is due 7th march but will do it as early as possible to get a month notice. Will be replacing the rear brake pipes also and fitted my long awaited braided flexi pipes too
 
Its all off ebay, not seen many spring kits around though....

Went to do some of the repairs tonight but soon gave up after finding this :(

image-8.jpg

image-9.jpg


Never seen rust in that area before so im pretty annoyed. I noticed that some of the seal was hanging off so went to town on it and ended up that way. If im going to keep this car im going to need to cut it all out and redo. Will end up doing so myself as im fed up of it being patched
 
Eire said:
Inside the Driver side rear arch?

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

Yeah and passenger side too. Anyway ive had too much fun in the car tonight to let any rust kill this car, its like god was throwing all these races for me. If only he picked quicker cars lol latest victims and there were a few we pissed about with to see there faces drop:

Audi TT quattro (dont know engine size)
Golf R32
EP3 Type-R civic
Fiesta ST
Astra 2.2

Herea a video of the R32

 
That'd be just under seat belt mounts, no? Id be checking those as well, pull panels out the rear and get a proper look inside the car as well before repairing

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Eire said:
That'd be just under seat belt mounts, no? Id be checking those as well, pull panels out the rear and get a proper look inside the car as well before repairing

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

No no, that areas good, its to the rear of each strut. Look at the pictures closer you will see
 
Stani1029 said:
No no, that areas good, its to the rear of each strut. Look at the pictures closer you will see
Click to expand...

Have you a sunroof? I know on my mera behind the struts rot out and in the boot area because the sunroof drain became blocked, hardly a similar issue?

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 

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