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- Thread starter Stani1029
- Start date
To be honest Stani, you're engine setup's so custom, you're choosing on which brand you like the sound of really although Mobil Super 3000 has a pretty decent rep. if you Google 'Bob is the oil guy forum', I guarantee you won't leave the house all afternoon 
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Stani1029
Club Member
To be honest Stani, you're engine setup's so custom, you're choosing on which brand you like the sound of really although Mobil Super 3000 has a pretty decent rep. if you Google 'Bob is the oil guy forum', I guarantee you won't leave the house all afternoon
Yeah i suppose, was just gonna chuck some genuine 10/40 in but thought ill be even nicer to the engine since its done me proud the past 6 months
Will go look it up
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Stani1029
Club Member
those comp readings are absolutely perfect
Yeah im happy with the outcome and you think lean? Car runs super rich most of the time but occassionally lean when cruising and idle. You think that could be the reason? What do you think about re-torquing the headbolts? There not new ones but havent been re-done since i had put the engine back together. Its just with the readings spot on i dont want to upset them now
i havent ever had problems with torquing of the bolts its just i want to be careful with getting so close to mapping this time round
frank
Club Member
i bet the headbolts go another 1/8 th of a turn now the gaskets have compressed stani.
btw, trying to keep up with you coming back from jae has finally free,d off my little end lol i,ve had a little clatter noise for 2 or 3 minutes after every startup since i fitted this engine a couple of months ago, and i guessed it was the tight wristpin that i should have sorted out before assembly (but could,nt be arsed) its disappeared since that sunday
btw, trying to keep up with you coming back from jae has finally free,d off my little end lol
i,ve had a little clatter noise for 2 or 3 minutes after every startup since i fitted this engine a couple of months ago, and i guessed it was the tight wristpin that i should have sorted out before assembly (but could,nt be arsed) its disappeared since that sunday
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Stani1029
Club Member
i bet the headbolts go another 1/8 th of a turn now the gaskets have compressed stani.
btw, trying to keep up with you coming back from jae has finally free,d off my little end lol
Ok well ill redo them before mapping. No need to drain coolant? How about when engine hot or cold? And i guess you may never know what it is, do you do alot of 70mph journeys? Maybe thats what it needed....
frank
Club Member
phht 70 my arse lol
i usually cruise at 3 k max (not 4k) and good question about the hot or cold.........dunno tbh, just cams out then slacken and retorque 1 headbolt at a time myself
pollyp
Club Member
when my turbo runs open-loop on boost region the afr spot on towards rich.
but the plugs spend most their time on the close-loop/low load region as ur cooling-down/coasting down to a stop which affects their final appearance before u remove em from a stopped engine...
unless that is, you run it on high load rich and turn it off asap which is risky.
anyway. previously my 1yr old o2 has been abit lazy which causes it to occasionally lean out during low load cruising & idling closed-loop (cos it couldn't respond and relearn fast enough)
after costing down/idling then check the plugs, this would cause the plugs to be exposed to the lean mixtures more often which makes them look lean.
now I've replaced the o2 sensor and wirebrushed clean the plugs to start over, the wideband reads the new sensor is keeping it alot closer to 14.7 when closed loop and as a result the plugs now appear nice n brown
head bolts - i've always re-used em no probs.
always retap n clean the threads till spotless, dab of oil on the bolt threads and coat of grease on both sides of the bolt washer to stop it stuttering during torquing.
i just follow the haynes torque procedure with a new HG, torque once and leave it.
when the gasket fails i usually find its either:
- poor HG quiality/construction (cheap ebay HGs no good for high boost, genuine nissan HG much stronger imho)
- poor surface prep (didn't scrape all of the old gasket off the block/head completely flat or didn't degrease the entire surface)
- poor torquing procedure (either wrong sequence or the bolts began to bind n stutter when torquing which creates uneven clamp load across the HG)
if it's holding up fine without bubbling under the most load then i just leave it alone.
do it right, once, the first time. as they say
but the plugs spend most their time on the close-loop/low load region as ur cooling-down/coasting down to a stop which affects their final appearance before u remove em from a stopped engine...
unless that is, you run it on high load rich and turn it off asap which is risky.
anyway. previously my 1yr old o2 has been abit lazy which causes it to occasionally lean out during low load cruising & idling closed-loop (cos it couldn't respond and relearn fast enough)
after costing down/idling then check the plugs, this would cause the plugs to be exposed to the lean mixtures more often which makes them look lean.
now I've replaced the o2 sensor and wirebrushed clean the plugs to start over, the wideband reads the new sensor is keeping it alot closer to 14.7 when closed loop and as a result the plugs now appear nice n brown
head bolts - i've always re-used em no probs.
always retap n clean the threads till spotless, dab of oil on the bolt threads and coat of grease on both sides of the bolt washer to stop it stuttering during torquing.
i just follow the haynes torque procedure with a new HG, torque once and leave it.
when the gasket fails i usually find its either:
- poor HG quiality/construction (cheap ebay HGs no good for high boost, genuine nissan HG much stronger imho)
- poor surface prep (didn't scrape all of the old gasket off the block/head completely flat or didn't degrease the entire surface)
- poor torquing procedure (either wrong sequence or the bolts began to bind n stutter when torquing which creates uneven clamp load across the HG)
if it's holding up fine without bubbling under the most load then i just leave it alone.
do it right, once, the first time. as they say
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Stani1029
Club Member
Cheers for the info! After reading further ive bought the Mobil 3000 5w40 also acquired a few more things that i wanted to do before remap
Oil
Filter and sump washer
Downpipe/exhaust gasket
Mani/turbo and turbo/downpipe gaskets
Also visited nissan to order the exhaust gaskets, inlet mani gasket and TB gasket. £45 odd!!!
Oil
Filter and sump washer
Downpipe/exhaust gasket
Mani/turbo and turbo/downpipe gaskets
Also visited nissan to order the exhaust gaskets, inlet mani gasket and TB gasket. £45 odd!!!
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Stani1029
Club Member
Nissan certainly adopt the 'pull the customer's pants down' approach to charging
Yes i know, i actually died and had to be brought back to life to pay for it haha! I suppose its genuine though so cant complain, and just to ensure theres no leaks i really wanted to replace all the gaskets
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Stani1029
Club Member
Had an hour to faff about, took the headlights and front bumper off the donor car (headlights for glen, bumper for me) heres what ive done for crail use only and maybe for the winter
Same thing with the rear bumper and ill do a frank and cut the middle section out to reduce drag
Same thing with the rear bumper and ill do a frank and cut the middle section out to reduce drag
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Stani1029
Club Member
Took the car apart today to replace the gaskets, also last night when i was out in my car when it come on boost it was like the dump valve wasnt closing sometimes and was letting air escape, disconnected the vacuum line and it drove fine from there so i removed the t piece and dump valve and replaced the pipe today while it was apart. Also got my maf sensor fitted but not wired in. As im needing help with that
Officially a non-turbo
The gaskets (4 to the right are genuine) also had to slot the 3 bolt one as the bolt centres were different
Done
I cheated and just unbolted the TB and inlet to do the gasket (id normally remove everything completely
Took the corner off the block as the downpipe was resting on it
MAF fitted who can assist with wiring please?
Officially a non-turbo
The gaskets (4 to the right are genuine) also had to slot the 3 bolt one as the bolt centres were different
Done
I cheated and just unbolted the TB and inlet to do the gasket (id normally remove everything completely
Took the corner off the block as the downpipe was resting on it
MAF fitted who can assist with wiring please?
frank
Club Member
autodata call the green/white pinout number 1 stani, and that should read .5v max with the ign on, and 1.0 to 1.3v at idle = signal wire ?
they call the black/white wire number 2, and should read zero resistance = earth ?
the other green wire should read 12v = supply voltage ?
AOC have SR20 fsm,s eh (to crosscheck)
they call the black/white wire number 2, and should read zero resistance = earth ?
the other green wire should read 12v = supply voltage ?
AOC have SR20 fsm,s eh (to crosscheck)
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Stani1029
Club Member
Cheers guys, i now know 100% the middle wire is earth on the s14a maf, and i keep seeing that the black/white wire is the 12v so i may just go for it. Either that or get over to the sxoc and see if they know? Anyone got an account and feeling nice enough to post on my behalf instead of creating an account for 1 question....
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Stani1029
Club Member
On the s14 maf? Im terrible with this stuff lol i found this, would it confirm what i need to know
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Stani1029
Club Member
Well i went for my above diagram for wiring in the s14a MAF and it works! Doesnt work 100% though as its super rich on idle now (10.0) but it feels more responsive when the boost comes on. But when i come to a stop the car cuts out, might be down to the overfuelling but at this moment in time ill run with the micra maf till its mapped. Heres a few pics of my tidy wiring a video of the switchover and one at 1psi through a bit of 2nd/3rd gear
Took the plug apart
Cut 3 lengths of wire which i soldered onto the remaining wire from the plug
A bit of tubing
Fitted (i basically soldered it onto the original wires a few inches back from the plug) this way i can switch back like i needed too
Video of the switchover
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums...0E1851F5-192-0000000E80C72BD5_zps44779e6d.mp4
1psi 2nd/3rd gear vid
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums...4DB30D25-192-00000010F82EDEB3_zps0c4d676e.mp4
Anybody have an idea on how to get the maf running better myself? Reset ecu? Through consult?
a video of the switchover and one at 1psi through a bit of 2nd/3rd gear Took the plug apart
Cut 3 lengths of wire which i soldered onto the remaining wire from the plug
A bit of tubing
Fitted (i basically soldered it onto the original wires a few inches back from the plug) this way i can switch back like i needed too
Video of the switchover
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums...0E1851F5-192-0000000E80C72BD5_zps44779e6d.mp4
1psi 2nd/3rd gear vid
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums...4DB30D25-192-00000010F82EDEB3_zps0c4d676e.mp4
Anybody have an idea on how to get the maf running better myself? Reset ecu? Through consult?
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Stani1029
Club Member
Mine may have turned up with nout wrong ....just saying
Sent from my NOVO7PALADIN using Tapatalk 2
Do you want me to cut myself, give you salt and let you rub it in??
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Stani1029
Club Member
SirChris
Educated Bodger
Haha i did get tempted to eat it as well.That was asbestos? I ate it......see you at JAE 3067 in my future life
Sent from my NOVO7PALADIN using Tapatalk 2
Bought the £20 new distributor from ebay but also come with a broken cap. Not bothered so long as it works
Exact same problem with mine! Kinda gutted but I got a spare cap from old engine
Pepper
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Stani1029
Club Member
1psi sometimes 2psi, and thats only at 1/4 throttle as anymore id have 3 1/2 pistons lol and i hope to run a recirc valve later, dump valve used to work but then just got faulty and cant be assed with it happening again
pollyp
Club Member
mine was the same asbestos wrapping too. overall not very suitable for such a fragile product but good thing mines fine too
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Stani1029
Club Member
mine was the same asbestos wrapping too. overall not very suitable for such a fragile product but good thing mines fine too
Big enough box filled with carrier bags FTMFW
SirChris
Educated Bodger
Ohhh # and a half pistons.... know the feeling.
Sent from my NOVO7PALADIN using Tapatalk 2
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Stani1029
Club Member
Thats last years tyre pen still on, took ages to do and after one deflating and the whole pen coming off i really dont fancy doing it again
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Stani1029
Club Member
Heres what id like to sell at the moment as a bundle or seperatly if everything is sold at once:
Full engine in good working order(double genuine headgasket for lower compression)
March plastic rocker cover
3.2kg flywheel (no clutch or gearbox included)
Modified glanza manifold and decat pipe
Rebuild TD04 turbo
Oil feed and return pipe (already connected to engine)
Custom powerflow exhaust system (with 3 solid hangers)
AEM wideband lambda sensor
Gizzmo IBC-R boost controller
Nistune ecu with coded transponder and keychips (for easy fitment)
Front mount intercooler and all associated pipes/bends etc
S14a Maf sensor and air filter
RB25 fuel rail and injectors (modified to fit, injectors have been cleaned/flow tested and o-rings etc replaced)
255LPH fuel pump
Full engine bay coolant hose set in blue
Magnecor ignition leads
Oil catch tank
And other bits and bobs that ive missed will be included
Full engine in good working order(double genuine headgasket for lower compression)
March plastic rocker cover
3.2kg flywheel (no clutch or gearbox included)
Modified glanza manifold and decat pipe
Rebuild TD04 turbo
Oil feed and return pipe (already connected to engine)
Custom powerflow exhaust system (with 3 solid hangers)
AEM wideband lambda sensor
Gizzmo IBC-R boost controller
Nistune ecu with coded transponder and keychips (for easy fitment)
Front mount intercooler and all associated pipes/bends etc
S14a Maf sensor and air filter
RB25 fuel rail and injectors (modified to fit, injectors have been cleaned/flow tested and o-rings etc replaced)
255LPH fuel pump
Full engine bay coolant hose set in blue
Magnecor ignition leads
Oil catch tank
And other bits and bobs that ive missed will be included
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Stani1029
Club Member
Because the stage im at seems to be as far as i can get with micras purely because ive done all the work. And waiting on replies from mappers is getting annoying! Phoned the place again and awaiting a call back. Lets see if they actually do this time
