..

[Low Rider]

Still very much a fan of white on white, (although my OZ SL's are starting to go a tad off white now thanks to a few years of brake dust). I'm sure your car will come out really well in the mag Stani

Mag shoots are really good fun. I did my first in the V12 E-Type a month of so back when we were at Goodwood. Spent about 10-15mins driving up and down an old country lane, (on the wrong side!), doing simulated overtaking maneuvers with a 350SL Mercedes with the photographer hanging out the back of a Toyota.

 

[Stani1029]

Still very much a fan of white on white, (although my OZ SL's are starting to go a tad off white now thanks to a few years of brake dust). I'm sure your car will come out really well in the mag Stani

Mag shoots are really good fun. I did my first in the V12 E-Type a month of so back when we were at Goodwood. Spent about 10-15mins driving up and down an old country lane, (on the wrong side!), doing simulated overtaking maneuvers with a 350SL Mercedes with the photographer hanging out the back of a Toyota.

I love the white on white, i cannot see me making anymore exterior changes as my ideas have run out lol your right brake dust is a pain, totally ruined my old rattle canned wheels hence powdercoating this time round!

As for the photoshoot is was a good laugh, especially when your all standing in the shot and he goes act normal which then makes you do the complete opposite! He was showing us some photos and it really is amazing what difference there is! Im buying a copy of all them so once the mags out ill get all the good unused ones up on my blog. We done the panning movement shot which turned out well

 

[Capix]

One of the prettiest Micra's i've seen! Makes me want a white one

 

[Stani1029]

Cheers capix!

Today i unplugged the dials to see if 4th and 5th gear hold back would dissappear and it has so need to get a switch hooked up to pin 32 on the ecu as the car drives very smooth through all gears with dials unplugged

 

[Stani1029]

Also decided to put the car back to stock

 

[MrMigs08]

Insane sleeper is insane

 

[Stani1029]

Eventually after 16 months of ownership ive repaired 2 of the most annoying eyesores

Drivers door burn

Fixed

Passenger door scratched plastic

Fixed

 

[Glen]

about time it looks good

 

[Guy]

Never mind stock, you still owe me a pic Stani .

 

[Stani1029]

Never mind stock, you still owe me a pic Stani .

Im lost....

 

[Guy]

Oops, can't remember if I asked or not. I would like a pic of your car for may website .

 

[Stani1029]

Oops, can't remember if I asked or not. I would like a pic of your car for may website .

Thats why i was lost you hadnt asked LOL when do you need one? Will you be editing them? Its just if your not going to edit it and can wait a bit ill have plenty in high quality from my photoshoot

 

[Guy]

Just a really nice one to go on my gallery page .

 

[Stani1029]

Just a really nice one to go on my gallery page .

Is there any youve seen in my blog that you want? There all on my photobucket

 

[Stani1029]

Recieved my silicone blanks today, first time ive ever had this part of the throttle body blocked off properly also in the picture i have a small coolant leak. Does anyone know whats inside the part its leaking up from? Anything that could melt whilst being baked during powdercoating?

 

[frank]

thats your coldstart fastidle waxstat stani

 

[Stani1029]

thats your coldstart fastidle waxstat stani

Thats what i was looking to say lol couldnt be bothered searching, you had one apart before? The needle in the centre popped out when i was rebuilding the TB, didnt think anything of it.....

 

[pollyp]

this is whats inside when i was cutting mine to fit a WOT microswitch. inside the brass cylinder is a gooey liquid.

I'd usually recommend bypassing the TB coolant lines, totally remove the waxstat mechanism that jams the throttle arm slightly open from cold (since they're guaranteed to seize n fail n cause high idle when warm, so most ppl just turn down the idle screw to compensate which causes idle issues) and letting the IAV do its job

 

[Stani1029]

this is whats inside when i was cutting mine to fit a WOT microswitch. inside the brass cylinder is a gooey liquid.

I'd usually recommend bypassing the TB coolant lines, totally remove the waxstat mechanism that jams the throttle arm slightly open from cold (since they're guaranteed to seize n fail n cause high idle when warm, so most ppl just turn down the idle screw to compensate which causes idle issues) and letting the IAV do its job

So bypassing it would be fine? Ill probs just remove both coolant pipes and blank the ends....

Also would removing the threaded rod and nuts in the bottom RH of the picture stop it from working? Obviously once the coolant has been re-routed

 

[pollyp]

So bypassing it would be fine? Ill probs just remove both coolant pipes and blank the ends....

Also would removing the threaded rod and nuts in the bottom RH of the picture stop it from working? Obviously once the coolant has been re-routed

yeah bypassing or shutting the TB coolant pipes fine. i totally removed the hoses on mine n crimped shut the pipes at the back corner of the head and the little pipe on the coolant return pipe with some pu sealant inside too

and no the spring loaded fast idle throttle cams always trying the keep the throttle open, the wax plunger when warm would push against the fast idle cam till it receeds and so allowing the throttle to shut fully = lower idle.

so once you've unhooked the coolant pipes you have to remove that sprung loaded fast idle cam mechanism to allow the throttle to fully seat, optionally clean & adjust the IAV solenoid before finally configuring the warm idle rpm. wrote a guide bout this

http://micra.org.uk/threads/how-to-configure-the-iav-idle-speed-with-nissan-datascan.43069/

 

[Low Rider]

Strange, I removed the coolant lines about 10years back with the wax stat adjusted out of the way, set up the idle and never once had any issues. Same went for when we ran a GA16DE throttle body as a test about 5 years ago and we never had any issues there either.

I set the idle the same way with the jenveys with no IAV and I don't have any idle issues there either.

From what I have heard people seem to always have the issue of the car not being able to start from cold and they have to hold the throttle open until things warm up but that's just down to poor setup.

 

[pollyp]

Strange, I removed the coolant lines about 10years back with the wax stat adjusted out of the way, set up the idle and never once had any issues. Same went for when we ran a GA16DE throttle body as a test about 5 years ago and we never had any issues there either.

I set the idle the same way with the jenveys with no IAV and I don't have any idle issues there either.

From what I have heard people seem to always have the issue of the car not being able to start from cold and they have to hold the throttle open until things warm up but that's just down to poor setup.

yeah sounds like a IAV stuck closed or IAV head misaligned or idle screw set too low to compensate for the fast warm idle from a stuck fast idle waxstat cam

 

[solarice]

I've removed the pin before and cleaned it up (when it was sticking) never had any leak issues afterwards...cant remember if theres an O ring on the inside, probably good odds though.

 

[pollyp]

dunno mine was solidified inside the hole

 

[solarice]

dunno mine was solidified inside the hole

Typically ive just chucked away the spare TB metal inc the wax stat pieces or coulda had a look...

 

[Stani1029]

HOW WIERD! Was driving the car briefly today and i can hear the dreaded low brake pads noise. So just ordered another set of EBC Greenstuff pads, thought id look back at how long the first set lasted me and i fitted them july 7 2011 which is exactly 1 year LOL

The cars been going great apart from a boost pipe blowing off so im thinking about getting some custom made I/C piping from some 2'' stainless. Hopefully the guys who made my exhaust would do it theres only 1 way to find out eh!

Also im away to do away with my parcel shelf and put my fog into the light cluster and make one of these x-braces if all goes to plan purely for show nothing else

 

[pollyp]

yeah blowing off boost pipes is the last thing you need especially if overtaking on A roads. I'd also cut a series of groove edge or create a rib/lip around the pipes for the silicon bits to bite onto

 

[Stani1029]

yeah blowing off boost pipes is the last thing you need especially if overtaking on A roads. I'd also cut a series of groove edge or create a rib/lip around the pipes for the silicon bits to bite onto

ill see what they can offer if not diy, its the 2nd time its happened now on the same join, i really wish i could buy a reducing elbow with dump valve fitment instead of having them butted together

 

[solarice]

They should be able to help you out no probs...probs only need a diagram, but then again they can copy your current layout.

 

[Stani1029]

They should be able to help you out no probs...probs only need a diagram, but then again they can copy your current layout.

Id just take the car to them so they can make them on the car, i reckon £150 max as theres only a short pipe with a 90 on the end and then the longer 45 pipe that goes across the engine.

 

[solarice]

Id just take the car to them so they can make them on the car, i reckon £150 max as theres only a short pipe with a 90 on the end and then the longer 45 pipe that goes across the engine.

Easily, i'd think you'd be paying mostly for the pipe as two bends are only gonna take minutes to do. Sourcing the pipe yourself could save you some cash aswell.

 

[Stani1029]

New passenger seat to replace the holed one

p.s. the seats wet because i washed it, thats not a stain

 

[peposhi]

Stani, how did you fix the plastic panel? I have a scratch on the passengers door and it's bugging me off anytime I look at it

 

[Stani1029]

Stani, how did you fix the plastic panel? I have a scratch on the passengers door and it's bugging me off anytime I look at it

Replaced the door card although i think i seen that this piece can be unscrewed from the panel so easily replaced with another

 

[peposhi]

Replaced the door card although i think i seen that this piece can be unscrewed from the panel so easily replaced with another

LOL... easy fix, ha-ha

 

[Stani1029]

Not alot happened, cars running smooth still. Was at ingleston car show on sunday, alot of attention on the car again which was good and plenty more new photos kicking about heres the stand i was on

Also ive decided to go for the gizzmo ibc-r boost controller which is only £250

And to top it off i had my magazine feature interview over the phone today and found out ill be in next months edition august 16th, the guy really liked what id done to my car which is good to hear from outsiders. Also my mates subscrived to banzai magazine so he gets a copy before the shelves do and im in that too for the banzai crail day.

(Thats glens car above mine)

 

[Stani1029]

Got a copy of my text for the feature and its a novel, and the guy andrew biddle was brilliant to chat to about my micra history. Makes me realise how long ive been here haha. Ach well just have to wait until the mag hits the shelves

 

[Stani1029]

Bought my boost controller this morning, went for the gizzmo ibc-r. Tomorrow im making the phonecalls regarding mapping and try to book for end of august also found a pic of my car on fast car website from ingleston last weekend, might end up in that mag too

 

[Stani1029]

Had some time to spend on the car today and first on the list was to re-route the sunroof drain pipes as i was getting water in both driver side footwells. Was such an easy and quick job to do. For the fronts i took off the kick panel where the pipe comes down drilled a hole through behind the wing and posted it through. For the rears it was a simple case of pulling them to the back near the lights and posting them out through air flaps.

Front

Rear

I also got round to fitting my new untorn passenger seat

Old

New

And i also cut the stainless bar i had and jammed it inbetween the rear seatbelts lol rattles slightly

Also realised ive no pictures of my completed RB25-CG13 fuel rail (made by the one and only frank)

Work in progress

Complete

And last but not least ive got a oil temp gauge but the fitting goes too deep in and will block my oil feed to the turbo so has anyone a solution? Ive bought some extension pieces but theyre wrong!

 

[frank]

would the oil temp sensor be best fitted to the sump stani ? drill and tap the sump plug maybe ?

 

[Stani1029]

Ahh i see, i just presumed it went onto that fitting because it screwed in. So yeah im sure i can find somewhere to do that or even drill the sump and weld in a nut

Also forget to mention i bought my turbo a jumper

 

[Stani1029]

Recieved my boost controller today, looks pretty simple to fit. Will do it over the next few days

 

[Stani1029]

Fitted my boost controller last night, took a fair while to get it hooked up and fitted tidily. One day the dash is coming out and ill hide all the wires somewhere else other than below the ecu/behind the centre console. Cant actually set it up fully as i need to give it full throttle. Will leave it to the mappers in august

 

[Stani1029]

Recieved a few parcels today still waiting on a few more

Turbo jumper thicker than i thought

Oil pressure gauge

Heat reflective tape

Injector rebuild kit

 

[Stani1029]

Got my turbo wrapped up today

Got my injectors rebuilt, pintle caps are difficult to push on so used a 9mm socket to knock them into place

Also managed to get some stock steels centre caps. Downside being i have 14'' steels so theres a 5mm gap allround

And i bought myself some dpare 4 and 6mm ID tubing

 

[Stani1029]

Well today we took my son to glasgow museum of transport. 60 mile into the journey the car misfired and literally 10 seconds later the engine management light was flashing and the engine had cut out. I looked in the rear view mirror looking for obvious smoke but there was none to my relief. Had to stop on the hard shoulder and scratch my head on what it could be, i have noticed the car runs rich (10.0) when cruising at 70mph and i can only keep it in a good zone by building speed or taking the foot off completely. I managed to get it restarted almost straight away with the EML flashing away, looking at all the gauges there was no change so stopped at the services, unplugged the lambda sensor and restarted the car and the light has went off and the rest of my journey has been faultless. Has running rich buggered my sensor?

Also heres a video or cruising at 70mph, you can see on my boost controller how much it wants to go lean without reaching 3psi, Roll on end of august!!!
http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a467/stani1029/abbf109c.mp4

 

[frank]

i dont understand why yours does,nt closed loop much stani ??
mine is continuously, except @ wot or lift

 

[Stani1029]

i dont understand why yours does,nt closed loop much stani ??
mine is continuously, except @ wot or lift

Is it because nistune is fitted? Any other thoughts?

 

[frank]

Is it because nistune is fitted? Any other thoughts?

i dunno mate, its somewhat of a compromise if the nistune has to run full time open loop surely ?.
cruising @ 10:1 a/f/r must be wolfing the fuel lol !

 

[Stani1029]

i dunno mate, its somewhat of a compromise if the nistune has to run full time open loop surely ?.
cruising @ 10:1 a/f/r must be wolfing the fuel lol !

Yeah well ive just got 190 miles from a tank (£50) motorway driving!