Same as what i have on back dunno just look really big in photo for some reason185/50 R15 I think
Cheers Kieran
Same as what i have on back dunno just look really big in photo for some reason185/50 R15 I think
Cheers Kieran
Same as what i have on back dunno just look really big in photo for some reason
So after a bit of glue I can go over it with glue ?Tbh ive tried bodyfill and it doesnt really stick, but if you paint on a thin layer of cheap epoxy glue you can filler over that
If you give it a thin layer of epoxy glue( basically resin) on the sanded and prepped plastic yeah then you can go over that with bodyfiller, polyester resin n fibrelgass whatever, really thats better than glue because the glue can be flexible and crack later onSo after a bit of glue I can go over it with glue ?
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If you give it a thin layer of epoxy glue( basically resin) on the sanded and prepped plastic yeah then you can go over that with bodyfiller, polyester resin n fibrelgass whatever, really thats better than glue because the glue can be flexible and crack later on
Sr20 build micra, we all dream of this and most ppl fail the build, the questions are wiring ? Sr20 engine ? Custom mounts ? Scared of cutting the chassis legs ? Can't weld ? Don't have engine crane ? can't get it insuranced ? Can't measure custom shafts ?
There is only one person who can do sr20 build for cheap and has many many years of experience. This would only take him only 1 week to complete. Can anyone guess who ?
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Yeh true both are as goodOr @h70qmicra... Both capable
on the gtir brakes I spaced it with 2 washers Don't no how many mm I think they about 5mm and they are catching the pads so any help @pollyp
Right what I done was took the both 17mm bolts off then took the carrier off then used washers in then fitted the carrier over them then bolted it down, am I doing it wrong ? Any pictures would help thanks Pollywhat dya mean catching the pads?
the washers fitted between the hub & caliper carrier simply shifts the carrier out abit so that there's equal gap between the insides of the carrier & both sides of the disc.
the pads should slide smoothly on the chrome clips.
the guide pins should slide smoothly.
I can get theses at 100 with everything
No lie that is very cheap I would get 2 pairs and leave it, good bargainScappy quoted me £48 for both calipers, disc and pads last time I was there but didn't have the funds at the time @Azzydot
( I had to remove them from car like but that doesn't bother me)
It was a scappy near my lasses in Morecambe. Hopefully he'll have them in still as it was 3 weeks ago I get paid on 14th so they'll be getting a visitNo lie that is very cheap I would get 2 pairs and leave it, good bargain
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I wish I can visit there now and get a dash board and pulsar clusterIt was a scappy near my lasses in Morecambe. Hopefully he'll have them in still as it was 3 weeks ago I get paid on 14th so they'll be getting a visit
Right what I done was took the both 17mm bolts off then took the carrier off then used washers in then fitted the carrier over them then bolted it down, am I doing it wrong ? Any pictures would help thanks Polly
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the bolt goes through hub mount hole > 1mm washer > caliper carrier cage thread
can't get any simpler than that
I have done it right ? But think my washers too bigthats the position azzy
Now don't go and scratch her againHi have not been on here for a while but have been busy working on Steffi Cab, she has a brand new shiny chrome Nissan badge on her derrière and some nice looking genuine Nissan JDM Kouki rear light clusters also some new rear mellow yellow rear drums lol!
Before!
View attachment 45400
After!
View attachment 45401
View attachment 45402
Andy
Yeh I will go to 1mm which everyone uses and haven't got the spacers that size so Tommow is getting washers and try that, thanks Pollyadjust washer thickness till the gap on both sides of the discs are equal. vernier calipers would be useful
Havent tried that tbh, but as long as it adheres to the plastic n the glass can stick to it should be ok i reconI got this ? They didn't have any epoxy glue
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Yh it's working just checked the plastic filler am using its solid but needs sanding hardHavent tried that tbh, but as long as it adheres to the plastic n the glass can stick to it should be ok i recon
First class reply.ur old TB had this ancient coolant driven waxstat fast idle cam mechanism,
which tends to seize open with age and which I always advise ppl to remove via here https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-19#post-446256
the modern IACV at the front also does the same job.
on the newer facelift coilpack TB, nissan prob leant bout the faulty waxstat and removed it, leaving the IACV (moved to the rear) to do all the idle control.
so to answer ur Q, the old TB coolant lines can be bypassed or simply plugged up cos it runs parallel to the coolant return route.
Have you checked your starter motor?having problems My car cranks so slow, and sometimes would not crank, battery is over 12v and I have 3 ground wires in car and on the engine, am thinking can it be a fault on the ign switch ? Has anyone had this problem before lights and everything Esle works
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I haven't checked that I think it's easy to put a wire from starter wire which is red/black onto a live and see if that's spinsHave you checked your starter motor?
Your friendly local mechanic in training -Sploshua
It could either be your starter brushes are worn out or your commutator has a bad connection could be dust and grime or groved if you cant get it working i would take it out and either take it to a pro or if you feel skilled enough take it apart yourself abd check the brushes (cheapest option)I haven't checked that I think it's easy to put a wire from starter wire which is red/black onto a live and see if that's spins
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Yeh true I can check the starter first see if bushes are worn, if it turns with live wire then it's defo ign switch, I doubt I need a pro to check it @frankIt could either be your starter brushes are worn out or your commutator has a bad connection could be dust and grime or groved if you cant get it working i would take it out and either take it to a pro or if you feel skilled enough take it apart yourself abd check the brushes (cheapest option)
Your friendly local mechanic in training -Sploshua
Battery is 12.38v and I haven't checked the starter meter volt yet but I will crank it how u said and get readings thankscheck the battery terminals are holding 12.4-12.6v
then check at the starter terminals themselves are actually getting over 9v while someone cranks. very low V at the starter maybe poor ground or some high resistance somewhere
Consult cable for which Ecu lolu got a consult cable and software? cos that can tell how much the voltage drops
I haven't got a cable but I will try that way u saidthe one running the engine
Catback or custom headers?making a full exhaust as I said last time it's very close under tunnel got the angles right and cut and welded in place, need to flush it and clean it up,
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Down pipe to back box with silencerCatback or custom headers?
Your friendly local mechanic in training -Sploshua