project micra

Interesting idea here. This is a conversion I have wanted to see for ages!!!

Best of luck!!! Any problems, and us K11 lot will help you out!
 
richj

i think i would keep the k10 loom in and unpick the engine part of the k11 loom (ecu and sensors, probably about 25 wires)
i think an early 1.0 g/box will line up ok with no shaft mods
and i think you will have to rig up a 70psi fuel pump (aftermarket ?)
 
Just a few things to consider, will you be using a pre or post facelift engine and loom?

Pre facelift has mechanical speedo dials
facelift is electrical.

I presume you will be using the K11 dials in a K10? Will you modify these onto a K10 dash or perhaps have a laugh a try to retro fit a K11 dash into a K10?

Fitting the K11 hubs is a good idea, gives you future upgrades for Almera/Pulsar brakes.

I'd imagine that a K10 fuel pump will be sufficient, although not certain on this.

Very interesting project mate, i look forward to seeing this start!!!

frank said:
richj

i think i would keep the k10 loom in and unpick the engine part of the k11 loom (ecu and sensors, probably about 25 wires)
i think an early 1.0 g/box will line up ok with no shaft mods
and i think you will have to rig up a 70psi fuel (aftermarket ?)
Click to expand...

This is what I did with the RS Turbo loom, it meant I only had a few wires going into the car itself, ignition live, couple of earths and rev counter, (but ECUs are mounted in the engine bay) although there may be more to it with a K11 as it actually has technology!!!
 
richj

you might be right to fit the k11 loom if you also fit the clocks and steering column etc, it will just be the back lights, f/wiper motor etc that will need splicing then eh
it will be an interesting project (Y)
 
As conversions go, this should be simple. Do all your own research and see with your own eyes. There is a lot of inaccurate info on here (msc generally) at the moment.

For example you will need to put the K11 fuel pump in the K10 tank, and upgrade the lines to ones that will take the 45psi pressure. (not 70). The K10 lines are usually under no pressure at all etc...

Electronics again no biggy. Keep it simple. You can possibly keep the K10 box on its original mounts and then only have to do a small amount of work to get the engine in. I have not compared the width of the K11 engine to the K10 if its very similar then it may almost fit on all the mounts except the timing belt side using all the same drive shafts as the k10. Logically this makes sense.

Dont even think about stripping anything until you have the engine in working and running. Or you just over complicate things.
 
i personally think you should use as much of the k11 loom as possible because basically the k11's have sensors n stuff like that maybe 20 to 30 connectors? where as the k10 only has 4 connectors for the whole engine and gearbox combination.
 
rich

you,re gonna need the exhaust too, it takes a different route around the tank
and if you use a 1.3 g/box you,ll need to weld some captive nuts for the g/box cross member f+r/mount and make a hybrid gearchange, and still need shafts fwn
 
rich

should be fine (Y) you,ll need a k11 1.0 flywheel too (6 bolt)
the mid section takes a different wavy route around the tank, i think you,ll need to cut-n-shut
 
i don't think the engine mounts will line up. i'd fit the k10 box to the k11engine then bolt up the g/box mount. get it sitting right and look into fabricating the other mounts. then you shouldn't have any problems with the driveshafts.
 
Richj

this is a project to be remembered!!!.....lets have it, we're with you

richj said:
I have an Alevel in electronics (A) that I am hoping will help me with the understanding neccessery to mate the two systems.
Click to expand...


Yee haa!

always a good start...agree with Ed on this ....keep it simple....and abstract as much as is possible frrom speciffic details where sensibly possible...

richj said:
I expect it to be at least 3 or 4 months until I have the chasis sorted.
Click to expand...

DUDE!.....you are a true 'realist'.... Im with you on this....(BTW I have a bunch of spares from K10 that you can HAVE <except postage> if there's anything you need along these lines to keep you going...just dropm me a PM)


richj said:
I love k10's.
Click to expand...

OK! you are clearly a mutual super-hero


BEST OF LUCK...and keep us posted
 
rich you've obviously changes you mobile number send it to me by email. i noticed you had a 1.2 gs on your driveway at your house in waterlooville is this the one your transplating too?
 
richj said:
This is when I found out some of the bolts between engine and gearbox will not fit. The thread on the 1.3 block is slightly wider than it is on the ma gearbox. This meant that even though I had the gearbox and block together, I couldnt put them in the car. It is going to be much easier to drill the gearbox out of the car.
Click to expand...

so your saying the only thing stopping the k10 g/box bolting onto the k11 engine is the diameter of the fixing holes?

did you redrill them and did that work?
 
you will have to post some pics up :D

next month or so im dropping a cg13 + k11 box in my k10. But unlike you im trying to get rid of all the wiring :p
 
The early CG10 box is much smaller than the CG13 box - it is also (I believed) derived from the K10 box which is why some early Marchs had K10 hubs.

Craig
 

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