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Porks bike carbs and boost project

a moto x reed valve on the turbo exit would cure the vacuum issue of course :D but the drag of the s/c is simply stalling the engine tho
 
Lol dam reed valve ;)

I've made the turbo / supercharger valve, jus waiting on little central locking solenoid.

I've also tried it with both turbo and s/c plumbed in , but without my valve, but you feel no boost (pipe to plenum left open) as it's jus recirculating

Jus getting impatient :) hope part will arrive tomorw
 
Haha, love my job sometimes.

Jus spoke to sfs performance and got them to make me a T piece ready for tomorrow (which will save loads off time and effort) for this idle bypass thing, all for a very special super discount price......top guys!
 
Enuo said:
Bypass valve will cure it too, there is very little load on sc when its not generating boost...
Click to expand...
i doubt it personally, the CG,s only have a couple of hp to spare when idling (without an i/c/v) here,s mine (with no i/c/v) at idle when i let the clutch out slowly (handbrake on)
you can see the timing at 6 or 8 deg, then increases to 18 deg with a load applied, then back to 6 or 8 when i push the clutch pedal back down.
without that control my engine would stall with the slightest load applied (ie, a s/c :p)

 
Tried wiring up into the rev counter light today

Experienced a problem.......here's a video off what's going on.....

The black rev counter wire I'm joining the relay coil too only shows 12v when light is illuminated and 0v when off, but when I add the coil wire it dimly illuminates the light when it's meant to be off, the light should jus be on or off, no in between lol.
It's operates the coil once, but then I have to remove the wire to stop dim light, otherwise the coil stays engaged...,.::::if any of that makes sense :D

Video may help

 
Try swapping thr wires on the relay. Some relays have a flyback loop diode, might be interfering with the circuit in the rev counter. Or the coil may jist be drawing too much current...
 
It's jus a standard 5 pin relay

Tried swapping connections over.

The volts is switched on the - wire inside the rev counter too, the + sees 12v all the time

Gunna need bit off help on this bit people, lol, where do I put a/which transistor
 
pork said:
It's jus a standard 5 pin relay

Tried swapping connections over.

The volts is switched on the - wire inside the rev counter too, the + sees 12v all the time

Gunna need bit off help on this bit people, lol, where do I put a/which transistor
Click to expand...
i mean use a transistor to drive the relay mate :)
 
If you can wait I'll do a detailed drawing and explanation tonight... but basically a transistor is a tiny little switch thats on when you apply a + voltage to the signal input on the transistor
 

Edit: Use the transistor to switch the relay coil, transistors don't deal well with high current without masive heatsinks...
 
Enuo said:

Edit: Use the transistor to switch the relay coil, transistors don't deal well with high current without masive heatsinks...
Click to expand...


Amazing!!!

Cheers!

Now I gotta find one from somewhere by tomorow


Oh, here's my valve thing I made too, it's close to exhaust so wrapped it in heat reflective tape, controlled by a central locking solonoid

7ahyvenu.jpg

yqagy5er.jpg
 
pork said:
Amazing!!!

Cheers!

Now I gotta find one from somewhere by tomorow


Oh, here's my valve thing I made too, it's close to exhaust so wrapped it in heat reflective tape, controlled by a central locking solonoid
Click to expand...
Looks awesome!
 
Well I can't find another door solenoid anywhere :(

I can get the s/c to boost thru 1st gear if I manually shut valve, but as soon as turbo boosts, it opens the valve and it stays open, so when you go into 2nd and s/c is back on, it's jus recirculating the boost.

I'm getting about 2-3psi on idle too,

Had a little blap about.......then it broke , so was sat here like this.....
upe7a7a3.jpg


Only a spade connector, so had to run to workshop lol

Oh, I've blown the outlet flange gasket too on the supercharger ...:::dam it!!
 
Well I can't find another door solenoid anywhere :(

I can get the s/c to boost thru 1st gear if I manually shut valve, but as soon as turbo boosts, it opens the valve and it stays open, so when you go into 2nd and s/c is back on, it's jus recirculating the boost.

I'm getting about 2-3psi on idle too,

Had a little blap about.......then it broke , so was sat here like this.....
 
Apparently those door solenoids will always burn out if left on for more than a few seconds

If I put a light spring on the valve keeping it shut, would the turbo pressure be enough to open it?
 
Not sure on the solenoids ( I would have gone with the reed valve ;-) )

Just out of interest do you have a bypass valve for the supercharger? I was talking to a mate who used the same charger on his swift and said that at idle the lack of air flow caused the charger to get very hot, so hot that it actually melted some wiring close to it.
 
I did notice it was hot!
I have got one but haven't fitted yet, now turbo is plumed up, there's enough air to allow car to start, so didn't bother, I've got all the parts but have to do it later, (cheers for heads up though)

Popped down the shops in my van, then random massive lightning /gales/ hail ston storm happened, came back and bonnet had been blown off and dented :(

a5evu4up.jpg


That's the second bonnet that's flown off now and damaged.....really should bolt it on :D

Made a quick spring out off weldind wire and fitted it, feels ok, not to much tension, jus enough to reset the valve after turbo has opened it


Il have to get up early tomorrow and dismantle it.....again, to replace that s/c gasket and see why it's blown
 

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