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pollyp
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Mainly scattered within this blog. The shifter mount still needs refining imo cos the fasteners keep loosening up
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Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum
PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
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pollyp
Club Member
Removed the used shaft
Trying to insert the inner CV joint into the gearbox was a PITA, unable to push it in.
Turns out they use this short kinked clip which pokes outside the spline too much and jamming the insertion.
Swapped it with the regular round C-clip instead
Installed & working nicely, there's almost no sloppy movement in the shaft
Trying to insert the inner CV joint into the gearbox was a PITA, unable to push it in.
Turns out they use this short kinked clip which pokes outside the spline too much and jamming the insertion.
Swapped it with the regular round C-clip instead
Installed & working nicely, there's almost no sloppy movement in the shaft
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pollyp
Club Member
The next thing to fix for the Porsche Spyder were some bushings for the gear selector shaft
there was surprisingly only 1 bushing per tube (one near the gear stick and the other underneath the engine) and they were seriously worn out
there's 2mm gap from the 18mm selector shaft!
ordered some nylon
cut to length
machined the outer groove & 18mm hole
2 new bushings fitted
now the shaft is supported with minimal play
there was surprisingly only 1 bushing per tube (one near the gear stick and the other underneath the engine) and they were seriously worn out
there's 2mm gap from the 18mm selector shaft!
ordered some nylon
cut to length
machined the outer groove & 18mm hole
2 new bushings fitted
now the shaft is supported with minimal play
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pollyp
Club Member
While cleaning the house, I gave these old BBS wheels a little jet wash, really need to sell these off to make room
I measured the spare driveshafts and damn it Nissan, why did they have to use soo many different splines?
Inner CV = 24T, 23.30 - 25.60mm
Driveshafts = 22T, 22.50 - 24.30mm
Outer CV = 23T, 22.10 - 23.80mm
I was hoping to use the broken left driveshaft to slot into the LSD for checking the LSD preload but the splines don't match. I'd have to sacrifice two inner CV joints instead
Recently on ebay I ordered some 40-56mm driveshaft oil seals to fix the leaking gearbox but received some smaller 25-40mm seals instead
Tday after contacting the seller they said keep the incorrect item & I received the correct 40-56mm seals, but curiously I wondered if the smaller seals fit the input shaft?
ooh they do!
so basically I purchased 2 driveshaft oil seals & got a pair of input shaft seals for free too
I measured the spare driveshafts and damn it Nissan, why did they have to use soo many different splines?
Inner CV = 24T, 23.30 - 25.60mm
Driveshafts = 22T, 22.50 - 24.30mm
Outer CV = 23T, 22.10 - 23.80mm
I was hoping to use the broken left driveshaft to slot into the LSD for checking the LSD preload but the splines don't match. I'd have to sacrifice two inner CV joints instead
Recently on ebay I ordered some 40-56mm driveshaft oil seals to fix the leaking gearbox but received some smaller 25-40mm seals instead
Tday after contacting the seller they said keep the incorrect item & I received the correct 40-56mm seals, but curiously I wondered if the smaller seals fit the input shaft?
ooh they do!
so basically I purchased 2 driveshaft oil seals & got a pair of input shaft seals for free too
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pollyp
Club Member
hehe it's a tasty dining tablethought ya had a massive bag of smarties as well there paul
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pollyp
Club Member
Stripping apart the spare power steering rack, which I converted into a manual rack yrs ago, to reattach a missing part
This rotary valve sleeve needed to be attached to keep the pinion in place (when it was previously missing, the pinion would jump off the bearing during right turns)
Covering the bearing surfaces
Welded the sleeve onto the shaft
Assembled & ready to try out someday
This rotary valve sleeve needed to be attached to keep the pinion in place (when it was previously missing, the pinion would jump off the bearing during right turns)
Covering the bearing surfaces
Welded the sleeve onto the shaft
Assembled & ready to try out someday
Great work Paul. If you do bushes like that in future consider using 'Nylatron' instead of 'Nylon', it has far better wear properties..... https://www.mcam.com/en/products/shapes/engineering/nylatron-ertalonThe next thing to fix for the Porsche Spyder were some bushings for the gear selector shaft
View attachment 88785
there was surprisingly only 1 bushing per tube (one near the gear stick and the other underneath the engine) and they were seriously worn out
View attachment 88784
View attachment 88793
there's 2mm gap from the 18mm selector shaft!
View attachment 88794
ordered some nylon
View attachment 88786
cut to length
View attachment 88787
machined the outer groove & 18mm hole
View attachment 88788
2 new bushings fitted
View attachment 88789
View attachment 88790
View attachment 88791
now the shaft is supported with minimal play
View attachment 88792
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pollyp
Club Member
checking the car over before the Unity Car Show, I noticed the throttle cable was slightly loose & didn't open WOT fully therefore during the recent datalog footage the TPS wasn't reaching 4.2kOhms, which might have affected the recent dyno results at santapod
the drivers door kept getting water stains and I figured the garden hose was leaking & dripping onto it
polished the stains away
added some extra stickers to balance out the boot decorations lol
the drivers door kept getting water stains and I figured the garden hose was leaking & dripping onto it
polished the stains away
added some extra stickers to balance out the boot decorations lol
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pollyp
Club Member
the adjustable gear stick mount kept shaking loose so I redesign it
rather than making a split adjustable ball-joint case, I match the original design but tailor the size of the insert to match the ball size
mounted the new casing over the ball-joint insert for a snug solid fitment
rather than making a split adjustable ball-joint case, I match the original design but tailor the size of the insert to match the ball size
mounted the new casing over the ball-joint insert for a snug solid fitment
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pollyp
Club Member
removed the strut brace containing the PAS hoses
bit more room without all that plumbing
removed the tie-rods
disconnect the column joint
removing the bulky PAS rack required lots of wriggling
power steering rack vs manually converted rack
fitted the manual rack but frustratingly whilst turning the wheels on the ground, the pinion once again kept clunking up/down by 5mm & popping this plastic dist cap off.
I'm sure I welded the rotary valve in the right spot
but looking back, what I previous thought was just a dust cap turned out to be a load bearing threaded cap which keeps the ball bearing secured to the rack to resist the pinion shaft thrust forces
so I machined a new cap
screwed on and now it doesn't clunk anymore and feels solid & secure
aligning the steering joint to the pinion splines so the steering wheel has equal amount of turns lock-lock
tied the throttle cable & loose loom out the way, ready to test drive
during startup, the throttle cable was slightly sticky so I rerouted it better
steering was obviously very heavy under 5mph, especially when turning lock-lock out the garage, leaving T-junctions & going slowly at roundabouts where the LSD engages, requiring slight change in driving habit.
5-30mph the steering weight felt normal.
at high speed the weight feels light, very responsive feedback during turn-in (great on track) but during mid-corner the wheel starts to feel slightly heavy under the cornering forces, especially when accelerating & the LSD locks up.
she also feels rather nippy.
dunno if it's the conditions, placebo effect, reduced weight or less hydraulic drag from the deleted power steering pump providing more HP to the wheels
I'll be curious to see if this also improves mpg too.
bit more room without all that plumbing
removed the tie-rods
disconnect the column joint
removing the bulky PAS rack required lots of wriggling
power steering rack vs manually converted rack
fitted the manual rack but frustratingly whilst turning the wheels on the ground, the pinion once again kept clunking up/down by 5mm & popping this plastic dist cap off.
I'm sure I welded the rotary valve in the right spot
but looking back, what I previous thought was just a dust cap turned out to be a load bearing threaded cap which keeps the ball bearing secured to the rack to resist the pinion shaft thrust forces
so I machined a new cap
screwed on and now it doesn't clunk anymore and feels solid & secure
aligning the steering joint to the pinion splines so the steering wheel has equal amount of turns lock-lock
tied the throttle cable & loose loom out the way, ready to test drive
during startup, the throttle cable was slightly sticky so I rerouted it better
steering was obviously very heavy under 5mph, especially when turning lock-lock out the garage, leaving T-junctions & going slowly at roundabouts where the LSD engages, requiring slight change in driving habit.
5-30mph the steering weight felt normal.
at high speed the weight feels light, very responsive feedback during turn-in (great on track) but during mid-corner the wheel starts to feel slightly heavy under the cornering forces, especially when accelerating & the LSD locks up.
she also feels rather nippy.
dunno if it's the conditions, placebo effect, reduced weight or less hydraulic drag from the deleted power steering pump providing more HP to the wheels
I'll be curious to see if this also improves mpg too.
removed the strut brace containing the PAS hoses
View attachment 88846
bit more room without all that plumbing
View attachment 88847
removed the tie-rods
View attachment 88848
disconnect the column joint
View attachment 88849
removing the bulky PAS rack required lots of wriggling
View attachment 88850
power steering rack vs manually converted rack
View attachment 88851
fitted the manual rack but frustratingly whilst turning the wheels on the ground, the pinion once again kept clunking up/down by 5mm & popping this plastic dist cap off.
I'm sure I welded the rotary valve in the right spot
View attachment 88852
but looking back, what I previous thought was just a dust cap turned out to be a load bearing threaded cap which keeps the ball bearing secured to the rack to resist the pinion shaft thrust forces
View attachment 88845
so I machined a new cap
View attachment 88853
View attachment 88854
screwed on and now it doesn't clunk anymore and feels solid & secure
View attachment 88857
aligning the steering joint to the pinion splines so the steering wheel has equal amount of turns lock-lock
View attachment 88858
tied the throttle cable & loose loom out the way, ready to test drive
View attachment 88855
View attachment 88856
during startup, the throttle cable was slightly sticky so I rerouted it better
steering was obviously very heavy under 5mph, especially when turning lock-lock out the garage, leaving T-junctions & going slowly at roundabouts where the LSD engages, requiring slight change in driving habit.
5-30mph the steering weight felt normal.
at high speed the weight feels light, very responsive feedback during turn-in (great on track) but during mid-corner the wheel starts to feel slightly heavy under the cornering forces, especially when accelerating & the LSD locks up.
she also feels rather nippy.
dunno if it's the conditions, placebo effect, reduced weight or less hydraulic drag from the deleted power steering pump providing more HP to the wheels
I'll be curious to see if this also improves mpg too.
I always apply the “KISS Factor” & sought out & bought keep fit manual steering K11s, as its more reliable with less unnecessary complexity to go wrong in an old banger.
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pollyp
Club Member
I didn't like how far back the steering rack sat which makes the inner tie-rod lean forward alot and this limits the angle of the rod to the inside hub during full steering lock before it binds
Redesigned the mount inserts to seat the rack at the original distance from the bulkhead
The drivers mount, which supports all the lateral forces of the rack, was too loose so I modified it with a tighter fit on the bracket & a gap to squeeze the rack tightly
Test fit on the rack
Installed
Here you see the tie-rod angle during full-lock, shifted more forward so it doesn't bind as much
The next issue is the outer tie-rod end.
When sitting level, the rose-joint only has just enough clearance to reach the full 2.8 turns lock-lock steering
But when the inside wheel is at full droop (ie intense steering at a slalom course), the joint runs out of movement & binds up, potentially damaging it or limiting the steering to 2 turns lock-lock
Hub can't reach full lock-lock
So I'll need to machine the rose-joint spacers to give more clearance.
Neatened up the throttle cable & wiring layout
Redesigned the mount inserts to seat the rack at the original distance from the bulkhead
The drivers mount, which supports all the lateral forces of the rack, was too loose so I modified it with a tighter fit on the bracket & a gap to squeeze the rack tightly
Test fit on the rack
Installed
Here you see the tie-rod angle during full-lock, shifted more forward so it doesn't bind as much
The next issue is the outer tie-rod end.
When sitting level, the rose-joint only has just enough clearance to reach the full 2.8 turns lock-lock steering
But when the inside wheel is at full droop (ie intense steering at a slalom course), the joint runs out of movement & binds up, potentially damaging it or limiting the steering to 2 turns lock-lock
Hub can't reach full lock-lock
So I'll need to machine the rose-joint spacers to give more clearance.
Neatened up the throttle cable & wiring layout
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-09-04 Replace Broken Radiator Fan
Yesterday I spotted the radiator fan support was broken
No idea how it happened, maybe something on the engine hit it, probably from the hard two launches recently at Santapod?
So I visited Jack for a spare fan and saw the later facelift fans appear more efficient & stronger.
The preface has 5 thin yellow blades while the newer fan has 6 curved blades with integrated shroud to improve efficiency (helps pull air through a denser radiator core at higher pressure?)
facelift fan has a stiffer frame, bigger motor, heavier fan blade
Footage of both fans running.
Old fan is lighter & spins up / spools down very quickly, spins at a slower quieter rpm & creates lots of turbulance.
The newer heavier fan has slightly more inertia so it spins up gradually and spools down very gently, it spins at a higher pitch & louder rpm to create that extra pressure with abit less turbulance at the sides
Yesterday I spotted the radiator fan support was broken
No idea how it happened, maybe something on the engine hit it, probably from the hard two launches recently at Santapod?
So I visited Jack for a spare fan and saw the later facelift fans appear more efficient & stronger.
The preface has 5 thin yellow blades while the newer fan has 6 curved blades with integrated shroud to improve efficiency (helps pull air through a denser radiator core at higher pressure?)
facelift fan has a stiffer frame, bigger motor, heavier fan blade
Footage of both fans running.
Old fan is lighter & spins up / spools down very quickly, spins at a slower quieter rpm & creates lots of turbulance.
The newer heavier fan has slightly more inertia so it spins up gradually and spools down very gently, it spins at a higher pitch & louder rpm to create that extra pressure with abit less turbulance at the sides
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pollyp
Club Member
The old air filter shield kept slipping off the ducting and the chassis lip was denting the top
edited & printed a new one after 12hrs
replace old with new
curved top now clears the chassis and the added lip around the ducting helps keep the heat shield locked on
2mths after fitting the LSD, the gear oil definately needs changing
may as well take out the gearbox to adjust the lsd & replace input bearing
edited & printed a new one after 12hrs
replace old with new
curved top now clears the chassis and the added lip around the ducting helps keep the heat shield locked on
2mths after fitting the LSD, the gear oil definately needs changing
may as well take out the gearbox to adjust the lsd & replace input bearing
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-09-07 Remove Gearbox & Rebuild LSD
While disconnecting the gearbox I noticed, ohh some of the gearbox bolts were loose might explain the oil leak & brief cold start rough bearing noise
Removed shafts
Removed the box
Check the clutch soon. gotta clean the gear oil spray off the bulkhead too
Opening up the gearbox, most of the case bolts were loose so gotta tighten em up more next time
new LSD cover holding up gr8 & shiny
Measuring all the plates, they've barely worn at all but wasn't happy with the 0nm preload so gonna rearrange with more preload
The preload washer hasn't shattered this time but it's been squeezed down from 3.75mm brand-new down to 3.68mm total height, resulting in some lost preload
Rearranged it using thicker clutch plates to compress the belville washer with 44% preload
Threadlocked all the bolts to 14Nm
To measure the LSD preload, I cut & welded a 1/2" socket onto the broken driveshaft to make an adapter tool
It slots into the spare inner CV joints so I don't have to cut & destroy them for a tool
Now I can clamp one inner joint on the vice,
insert the LSD,
insert the other inner joint on top,
& then attach my torque wrench with the adapter shaft to measure the preload in both directions
Giving the LSD 44% of preload may have been overkill cos considering this 1-sided diff is very direction biased,
when I spin it clockwise (simulating turning left) we have a preload torque of 25nm,
but once I spin it counter-clockwise (turning right) the LSD ramp wedges & locks up solid immediately well beyond my 200nm torque wrench limit lol.
Safe to say the wheel will be skipping along the floor with hard steering every time I leave the back alley garage with tight right turns
While disconnecting the gearbox I noticed, ohh some of the gearbox bolts were loose
might explain the oil leak & brief cold start rough bearing noise
Removed shafts
Removed the box
Check the clutch soon. gotta clean the gear oil spray off the bulkhead too
Opening up the gearbox, most of the case bolts were loose so gotta tighten em up more next time
new LSD cover holding up gr8 & shiny
Measuring all the plates, they've barely worn at all but wasn't happy with the 0nm preload so gonna rearrange with more preload
The preload washer hasn't shattered this time but it's been squeezed down from 3.75mm brand-new down to 3.68mm total height, resulting in some lost preload
Rearranged it using thicker clutch plates to compress the belville washer with 44% preload
Threadlocked all the bolts to 14Nm
To measure the LSD preload, I cut & welded a 1/2" socket onto the broken driveshaft to make an adapter tool
It slots into the spare inner CV joints so I don't have to cut & destroy them for a tool
Now I can clamp one inner joint on the vice,
insert the LSD,
insert the other inner joint on top,
& then attach my torque wrench with the adapter shaft to measure the preload in both directions
Giving the LSD 44% of preload may have been overkill cos considering this 1-sided diff is very direction biased,
when I spin it clockwise (simulating turning left) we have a preload torque of 25nm,
but once I spin it counter-clockwise (turning right) the LSD ramp wedges & locks up solid immediately well beyond my 200nm torque wrench limit lol.
Safe to say the wheel will be skipping along the floor with hard steering every time I leave the back alley garage with tight right turns
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-09-08 Tighten Gear Selector Mechanism
Next issue to fix is the gear selector mechanism which has a noticable amount of side-side play when in-gear, which contributes to some sloppy feeling engagement & rattling gear-stick
You can see in the footage the 1mm of play in the whole thing as I wriggle the selector
To remove the selector, I punch out the 3mm & 5mm roll-pins
Selector shaft removed
Checking the selector finger closely, the finger is 5.65mm wide but the biggest cause is the swinging selector mechanism which has a massive gap of upto 6.50mm due to how loose they're riveted together
The selector finger & the sliding follower has a gap of 0.46mm and that limits how much I can widen the finger
So I add a dab of weld
Carefully file it down to the new 6.20mm thickness
Now you see how close it slides
Selecting 1st/2nd you can see the gap is much tighter
But in the other gears, it's actually the loosely riveted swinging mechanism above which is letting it down.
overall it feels much more precise than before.
While here, I'll replace the input shaft bearing too
Replace the input seal & driveshaft seals
Gearbox reassembled, tightened the casing to 17nm
Next issue to fix is the gear selector mechanism which has a noticable amount of side-side play when in-gear, which contributes to some sloppy feeling engagement & rattling gear-stick
You can see in the footage the 1mm of play in the whole thing as I wriggle the selector
To remove the selector, I punch out the 3mm & 5mm roll-pins
Selector shaft removed
Checking the selector finger closely, the finger is 5.65mm wide but the biggest cause is the swinging selector mechanism which has a massive gap of upto 6.50mm due to how loose they're riveted together
The selector finger & the sliding follower has a gap of 0.46mm and that limits how much I can widen the finger
So I add a dab of weld
Carefully file it down to the new 6.20mm thickness
Now you see how close it slides
Selecting 1st/2nd you can see the gap is much tighter
But in the other gears, it's actually the loosely riveted swinging mechanism above which is letting it down.
overall it feels much more precise than before.
While here, I'll replace the input shaft bearing too
Replace the input seal & driveshaft seals
Gearbox reassembled, tightened the casing to 17nm
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pollyp
Club Member
Gearbox fitted & filled with 3L fresh oil
Went out to test the new setup
Initially leaving the garage, the steering is still heavy & LSD stutter slightly cos it needs a warm up to circulate the fresh fluids throughout the clutch plates.
But the moment I went down my street the biggest difference I notice now with 44% preload is that the LSD engagement is really progressive & quiet with almost no chatter
Previously it used to have very low preload, which made it jump immediately straight up the 80% ramp, locking the plates very hard and the unsecured plates just chattered/shaked loudly.
It's abit counter-intuative but it seems the tighter preload of the belville washer keeps all the clutch plates secure under constant pressure and stops them from vibrating around loosely, which also stops the loud chatter.
The high preload also keeps the side-gear cross-pins seated deeper within the LSD 80%/30% ramps, this means it has a more progressive, smooth & consistant ramp operation without the sudden 'snap' when I lift throttle mid-corner.
Finally the modified gear selector mechanism has helped stop the gear stick from shaking around while cruising
Went out to test the new setup
Initially leaving the garage, the steering is still heavy & LSD stutter slightly cos it needs a warm up to circulate the fresh fluids throughout the clutch plates.
But the moment I went down my street the biggest difference I notice now with 44% preload is that the LSD engagement is really progressive & quiet with almost no chatter
Previously it used to have very low preload, which made it jump immediately straight up the 80% ramp, locking the plates very hard and the unsecured plates just chattered/shaked loudly.
It's abit counter-intuative but it seems the tighter preload of the belville washer keeps all the clutch plates secure under constant pressure and stops them from vibrating around loosely, which also stops the loud chatter.
The high preload also keeps the side-gear cross-pins seated deeper within the LSD 80%/30% ramps, this means it has a more progressive, smooth & consistant ramp operation without the sudden 'snap' when I lift throttle mid-corner.
Finally the modified gear selector mechanism has helped stop the gear stick from shaking around while cruising
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-09-14 Replace Peugeot 307 Brakes
The old brakes on the Peugeot was really rusty, scored, worn out, weak & needed replacing badly
These silly tiny torx screws on peugeots are soo annoying at rounding
So welded nuts onto the ends
Fresh, smooth & working brakes on all 4 wheels
The old brakes on the Peugeot was really rusty, scored, worn out, weak & needed replacing badly
These silly tiny torx screws on peugeots are soo annoying at rounding
So welded nuts onto the ends
Fresh, smooth & working brakes on all 4 wheels
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-09-13 Replace Throttle Cable
The old throttle cable was slightly sticky & needed replacing
Machined the crimped outer cable off the threaded cable adjuster so I can re-use it
Assembled with new bicycle brake cable
This dremel chuck is bolted onto the throttle pedal for holding the inner cable
feed the new cable through the hole, trim to length
Insert a bolt within the dremel chuck to clamp onto the inner cable
Routed the outer cable at a smoother path
The old throttle cable was slightly sticky & needed replacing
Machined the crimped outer cable off the threaded cable adjuster so I can re-use it
Assembled with new bicycle brake cable
This dremel chuck is bolted onto the throttle pedal for holding the inner cable
feed the new cable through the hole, trim to length
Insert a bolt within the dremel chuck to clamp onto the inner cable
Routed the outer cable at a smoother path
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pollyp
Club Member
The new throttle cable is definately a lot more slippery, making the engine feel more sensitive, lively & responsive to the slightest touch
After few miles of running the rebuilt LSD I tested the preloads by lifting the right wheel and spinning it forwards/backwards to simulate turning left/right.
When gear oil is cold & thick:
- Turning left, preload is still at 25Nm,
- Turning right, it immediately locks up beyond 200Nm.
Same values as when I tested it on the bench cold.
Once gear oil is warmed up & thinner:
Dynamic vs static friction on the plates come into play at influencing how much the ramps lock up:
- Turning left above 5mph, the plates are sliding under a low dynamic friction only forced by the belville preload washer & no ramp engagement, giving a smooth 25Nm,
- Turning left very slowly below 5mph, oil is squeezed out of the plates, which begins to grab & stutter very lightly with a higher static friction, giving a jittery 30Nm,
- Turning left to right immediately above 5mph in neutral, the plates are still sliding under a lower dynamic friction, oil still lubricating inbetween each plate under the force of the belville preload washer, which also helps to keep the side-gear cross-pin firmly seated deep on the LSD drive ramp, therefore providing minimal ramp engagement and giving a smooth approx 30Nm,
- Turning right slowly below 5mph (ie T-junctions, 3-point turns, leaving my garage), the plates begin to stop sliding, oil is squeezed out of the plate surfaces, making them grip/lock together with higher static friction, which causes the cross-pin to wedge up the LSD ramp, applying more clamping force, locking the plates with even more static friction etc making it all lock-up & stutter loudly beyond 200Nm.
After few miles of running the rebuilt LSD I tested the preloads by lifting the right wheel and spinning it forwards/backwards to simulate turning left/right.
When gear oil is cold & thick:
- Turning left, preload is still at 25Nm,
- Turning right, it immediately locks up beyond 200Nm.
Same values as when I tested it on the bench cold.
Once gear oil is warmed up & thinner:
Dynamic vs static friction on the plates come into play at influencing how much the ramps lock up:
- Turning left above 5mph, the plates are sliding under a low dynamic friction only forced by the belville preload washer & no ramp engagement, giving a smooth 25Nm,
- Turning left very slowly below 5mph, oil is squeezed out of the plates, which begins to grab & stutter very lightly with a higher static friction, giving a jittery 30Nm,
- Turning left to right immediately above 5mph in neutral, the plates are still sliding under a lower dynamic friction, oil still lubricating inbetween each plate under the force of the belville preload washer, which also helps to keep the side-gear cross-pin firmly seated deep on the LSD drive ramp, therefore providing minimal ramp engagement and giving a smooth approx 30Nm,
- Turning right slowly below 5mph (ie T-junctions, 3-point turns, leaving my garage), the plates begin to stop sliding, oil is squeezed out of the plate surfaces, making them grip/lock together with higher static friction, which causes the cross-pin to wedge up the LSD ramp, applying more clamping force, locking the plates with even more static friction etc making it all lock-up & stutter loudly beyond 200Nm.
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-09-16 Tie-Rod End Spacer Correction
During full suspension droop the custom tie-rod ends tend to jam-up prematurely, due to the old spacers made too bluntly, which can limit the steering down to only 2-turns lock-lock & potentially damage itself if eg the inside wheel drops down a hole during a hard tight turn.
So I remachined a new spacer with more clearance & angle to give the joint more space to swivel freely without fouling.
Can see the old joint was fouling with a limited 30deg of swivel whereas the slimmer spacer gives it 40deg of range.
Old spacers were too blunt
Machined new spacers from M12 nuts with a thinner deeper middle section and a 45deg relief
Previously only reached 2-turns of steering whereas now it can reach a full 2.75-turns lock-lock no problem
During full suspension droop the custom tie-rod ends tend to jam-up prematurely, due to the old spacers made too bluntly, which can limit the steering down to only 2-turns lock-lock & potentially damage itself if eg the inside wheel drops down a hole during a hard tight turn.
So I remachined a new spacer with more clearance & angle to give the joint more space to swivel freely without fouling.
Can see the old joint was fouling with a limited 30deg of swivel whereas the slimmer spacer gives it 40deg of range.
Old spacers were too blunt
Machined new spacers from M12 nuts with a thinner deeper middle section and a 45deg relief
Previously only reached 2-turns of steering whereas now it can reach a full 2.75-turns lock-lock no problem
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-09-22 Non-PAS Tensioner
To delete the PAS pump for my manual-rack setup (non-PAS tensioners are rare or ££), I made this new belt tensioner
Mounts behind the engine
Using parts off the old PAS belt tensioner as the adjuster
Pulley moves in/out like this
Just ordered a shorter 4pk611 belt
To delete the PAS pump for my manual-rack setup (non-PAS tensioners are rare or ££), I made this new belt tensioner
Mounts behind the engine
Using parts off the old PAS belt tensioner as the adjuster
Pulley moves in/out like this
Just ordered a shorter 4pk611 belt
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Thumbs up for all the info you have on the k11!
I would like to pick ur brain about something.. i have a bc racing br ra coilover set, saw you have the same one but with 5kg front 4kg back, how does this hold up against the v1 6kg front 3kg back?
I have a s20de+t swapped stripped k11 also with the br ra set currently on 7kg front spring and 5kg back springs with shorter back dampers this because i wanted to go low low, now that i am over that thinking of putting the original dampers back on , i would like some better handeling, in stead of doing just dragraces, what would you reckon with the heavier front and empty back for kind of springs to go to? i was thinking of getting the back to stock 3kg springs, but the front i am still thinkering about.. hope you could give me some insight on that since you do/did track days.
Sorry if something like this is allready asked but so many pages haha.
I would like to pick ur brain about something.. i have a bc racing br ra coilover set, saw you have the same one but with 5kg front 4kg back, how does this hold up against the v1 6kg front 3kg back?
I have a s20de+t swapped stripped k11 also with the br ra set currently on 7kg front spring and 5kg back springs with shorter back dampers this because i wanted to go low low, now that i am over that thinking of putting the original dampers back on , i would like some better handeling, in stead of doing just dragraces, what would you reckon with the heavier front and empty back for kind of springs to go to? i was thinking of getting the back to stock 3kg springs, but the front i am still thinkering about.. hope you could give me some insight on that since you do/did track days.
Sorry if something like this is allready asked but so many pages haha.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
thanks m8
The dampening of the BR is soo much better than the V1.
BR with 5/4kg springs gives a firmer ride & less roll/pitch & progressive handling.
the old V1 with 4/3kg springs was comfy & very progressive cornering feel, good grip but leaned/tri-pods too much.
V1 with 6/3kg springs power-understeered on exit too much & lost time. so with stiffer spring rate it gets more sensitive, lose traction & time.
I'd only stiffen the spring rate if the suspension is bottoming out/rubbing on bump stop too often, especially if lowered too much with less bump travel or have a heavy sr20 lump.
A key note with lowered cars & heavier engine on track, the standard suspension geometry would be well-out. the front roll-center too low, high CG of the sr20 lump, making it roll & bump-steer badly in corner.
Before going stiffer springs & swaybar, which is abit of a band-aid although compromising on traction, my recommended next step is to correct the roll-center & bump-steer (extended lower BJ & arms, tie-rod bump-steer mod) to reduce the overall body-roll force & improve steering turn-in too.
Rear end is soo light already, 3kg spring is fine.
Proper X-brace at the back (bolted onto seat belt mounts) & front lower brace really helps reduce chassis flex to sharpen steering response.
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
2024-10-02 Correct Water Pump Belt
4PK611 belt was too long,
4PK595 was abit too short
Ordered a 4PK600, which fits perfectly
Removed the remaining PAS pump & tensioner
The 4PK600 fits snug and no need for tensioner either since the water pump doesn't require much torque to run, so now there's less parts to go wrong/wear out and maybe reduced drag too
The old dashboard cusion might be loose & buzzing
so taped it up for now
4PK611 belt was too long,
4PK595 was abit too short
Ordered a 4PK600, which fits perfectly
Removed the remaining PAS pump & tensioner
The 4PK600 fits snug and no need for tensioner either since the water pump doesn't require much torque to run, so now there's less parts to go wrong/wear out and maybe reduced drag too
The old dashboard cusion might be loose & buzzing
so taped it up for now
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
The alternator wiring seemed too tight after moving the alternator lower & closer
I simply moved it lower down
Noticed the screenwash tube tends to shake at certain rpm & the wideband controller has been roughly ziptied onto it for yrs
Printed a new mount for the wideband & a little cap for the wash bottle
Fill tube removed & bunged, inserted rivnuts for the new mount
Wideband controller mounted solid to the chassis
I simply moved it lower down
Noticed the screenwash tube tends to shake at certain rpm & the wideband controller has been roughly ziptied onto it for yrs
Printed a new mount for the wideband & a little cap for the wash bottle
Fill tube removed & bunged, inserted rivnuts for the new mount
Wideband controller mounted solid to the chassis
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
2024-10-26 North East Autoshow Darlington
Washed the car ready for the last show of the year
Met up with TeamWhiteCustoms group in Darlington
Arrived at the darlington football stadium
During the show I changed the flavour of the Pringles intake
Spotted the only K10 in the show
& a little Cherry
All gathering to exit the show at 3pm
Washed the car ready for the last show of the year
Met up with TeamWhiteCustoms group in Darlington
Arrived at the darlington football stadium
During the show I changed the flavour of the Pringles intake
Spotted the only K10 in the show
& a little Cherry
All gathering to exit the show at 3pm
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
2024-10-27 Replace Peugeot Silencer
The old silencer on the peugeot rusted off again so I brought another cheap box off ebay.
It looked slightly different to the photo, useing the usual cheap hanger strapped in the middle (rather than welded on shown in the photo),
& the diesel exhaust is bigger than petrol
petrol has a 43mm pipe
diesel uses 60mm pipe
silencer is same dimensions but bigger plumbing.
instead of the hassle of posting it back & buy another one £15 more, I'm simply gonna modify this to fit
old pipe easily snaps off, gonna re-use this fitting
chopped the large end off
have to make this 43mm end fit within a 60mm hole
Afew pie cuts to taper the size down
welded on
also extended these short hangers
exhaust fitted & fixed
The old silencer on the peugeot rusted off again so I brought another cheap box off ebay.
It looked slightly different to the photo, useing the usual cheap hanger strapped in the middle (rather than welded on shown in the photo),
& the diesel exhaust is bigger than petrol
petrol has a 43mm pipe
diesel uses 60mm pipe
silencer is same dimensions but bigger plumbing.
instead of the hassle of posting it back & buy another one £15 more, I'm simply gonna modify this to fit
old pipe easily snaps off, gonna re-use this fitting
chopped the large end off
have to make this 43mm end fit within a 60mm hole
Afew pie cuts to taper the size down
welded on
also extended these short hangers
exhaust fitted & fixed
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
2020-2024 Redesign Exhaust Manifold
From 2011-2019 my old turbo setup had this crude layout with lots of tight bends & factory unequal length manifold, not great for flow or efficiency
Since the turbo setup last blew up in 2018 I've been running this factory NA manifold that's been opened up to 2.25"
Instead of using the same inefficient turbo manifold & layout, I decided it's time to redesign the whole package for improved flow.
So for the past 4 yrs I've been trying to redesign the manifold with the goal of:
-equal length runners for consistant equal exhaust pulses at the collector for better turbo spool-up & scavenging,
-short runners to try keep the exhaust gas hot & position turbo close to the engine away from the alternator & radiator,
-easy to make at home with current tools.
I had almost 100 designs ranging from:
- Unequal Length Log Manifold
- 421 headers
- 431 headers
- 4-1 Ram-Head
- 4-1 Long Looping Headers
- 4-1 Compact Short Headers
- 4-1 Long Headers
From 2011-2019 my old turbo setup had this crude layout with lots of tight bends & factory unequal length manifold, not great for flow or efficiency
Since the turbo setup last blew up in 2018 I've been running this factory NA manifold that's been opened up to 2.25"
Instead of using the same inefficient turbo manifold & layout, I decided it's time to redesign the whole package for improved flow.
So for the past 4 yrs I've been trying to redesign the manifold with the goal of:
-equal length runners for consistant equal exhaust pulses at the collector for better turbo spool-up & scavenging,
-short runners to try keep the exhaust gas hot & position turbo close to the engine away from the alternator & radiator,
-easy to make at home with current tools.
I had almost 100 designs ranging from:
- Unequal Length Log Manifold
- 421 headers
- 431 headers
- 4-1 Ram-Head
- 4-1 Long Looping Headers
- 4-1 Compact Short Headers
- 4-1 Long Headers
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
2024-10-30 Equal Length 4-1 Turbo Exhaust Header
This was the latest chosen design #97 which closely met my design goals.
Has equal length runners, compact, doesn't require many U-bends to make, simple angle cuts, few welds to do compared to joining hundreds of pie-cuts
The turbo exit elbow barely clears the radiator & front engine mount while maintaining a smooth large 2.25" bend
The runners clear the front slam panel & bonnet
The turbo intake is right above the alternator leading over to the cooler right-side of the bay where the washer bottle filler is (I'll adapt a cold intake duct here)
Before the turbo & spare engine is rebuilt/fitted, I'll be running the new manifold in NA like this with the new sports cat sitting up close to hopefully help with MOT emissions
Designed this simple jig to hold the T2 flange while constructing the complex runners
This was the latest chosen design #97 which closely met my design goals.
Has equal length runners, compact, doesn't require many U-bends to make, simple angle cuts, few welds to do compared to joining hundreds of pie-cuts
The turbo exit elbow barely clears the radiator & front engine mount while maintaining a smooth large 2.25" bend
The runners clear the front slam panel & bonnet
The turbo intake is right above the alternator leading over to the cooler right-side of the bay where the washer bottle filler is (I'll adapt a cold intake duct here)
Before the turbo & spare engine is rebuilt/fitted, I'll be running the new manifold in NA like this with the new sports cat sitting up close to hopefully help with MOT emissions
Designed this simple jig to hold the T2 flange while constructing the complex runners
Last edited:
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-11-01 Fabricate New Turbo Manifold
Cleaned up these 38mm steel U-bends I had in storage
Marked out the 70/90/180deg bends required
I'll need to adapt this band saw to hold & cut the precise bends
Printed these jigs
Added an extra screw hole to the band saw
Now I can cut each bend
All 4 runners chopped, and now the most difficult part is merging them all into a collector
I carefully marked the layout of each precise complex cut on the pipes
Printed this jig to hold the flange into position while reconstructing the runners
Getting all 4 curvy cuts to line up was quite difficult, frustrating & fiddly
Cleaned up these 38mm steel U-bends I had in storage
Marked out the 70/90/180deg bends required
I'll need to adapt this band saw to hold & cut the precise bends
Printed these jigs
Added an extra screw hole to the band saw
Now I can cut each bend
All 4 runners chopped, and now the most difficult part is merging them all into a collector
I carefully marked the layout of each precise complex cut on the pipes
Printed this jig to hold the flange into position while reconstructing the runners
Getting all 4 curvy cuts to line up was quite difficult, frustrating & fiddly
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
I may have cut too much material off the complex join and manually filing/grinding it to fit wasn't working, so thought fookit lets join it & deal with the slightly wrong angles.
Tacked the merge collector together, runner #1 & 4 are pointing up too much, they should be pointing flat
With the runners pointing up, there's a large gap near the flange
Managed to move #1 runner closer together but I had to add a short section to #4 runner
Split it apart to weld around each runner.
Originally I wanted to neatly TIG it but somehow it wasn't working properly with the gas-lens tip so I MIG welded instead, which was better for filling large gaps, consistant & very familar/reliable
Welded the outer runners to the inner runners while I still had good access to smooth the inside merge
Tried to reattach both runners together onto the flanges but due to warpage, it was hard to line up without this gap in the middle, which I eventually had to fill up using the MIG
Completed MIG welding the whole manifold. MIG ain't neat & lots of spatter so may need smoothing using the TIG
Oooh that looks satisfying & cool
Just enough gap from the turbo & engine area
The silicone join at the compressor outlet might be abit toasty near the T2 flange
Turbine outlet sitting level for the 2.25" elbow
Can just barely squeeze the dip-stick inbetween these runners
Found the gas-lens was once again faulty/blocked whereas the regular pink nozzles worked fine
I got carried away trying to smooth out every rough MIG weld with the TIG, forgetting I was putting too much heat/warpage on the runners until I realised the ends of the flange warped badly by 5mm
That's gonna be difficult to sand flat or I'd have to start over with a new flange?
After chatting with Jack, I decided the 1-piece flange & runners where straining each other, so I separated each flange & correct the warped #4 flange
Bolted onto the head, using it as a straight jig
Welded the warped flange back onto the runner
That's a little better to belt sand it flat later
Blanked off the ports to leak test the welds
Blowing air inside whilst submerged, there were afew leaks around the 10mm thick flange
Trying to TIG weld up every pin hole leak & retesting it only to find more leaks was seriously frustrating & putting too much heat into the flange
welding it up from the outside wasn't working so I TIG welded it from the inside of the port and that's finally sealed it up
Last step is to belt sand it flat & paint.
As a 1st attempt it definately ain't perfect, so many things went wrong, it tested my patience, hope I don't have to go through it all again lol but suppose it's part of building experience.
Curious to see if it works out
Tacked the merge collector together, runner #1 & 4 are pointing up too much, they should be pointing flat
With the runners pointing up, there's a large gap near the flange
Managed to move #1 runner closer together but I had to add a short section to #4 runner
Split it apart to weld around each runner.
Originally I wanted to neatly TIG it but somehow it wasn't working properly with the gas-lens tip so I MIG welded instead, which was better for filling large gaps, consistant & very familar/reliable
Welded the outer runners to the inner runners while I still had good access to smooth the inside merge
Tried to reattach both runners together onto the flanges but due to warpage, it was hard to line up without this gap in the middle, which I eventually had to fill up using the MIG
Completed MIG welding the whole manifold. MIG ain't neat & lots of spatter so may need smoothing using the TIG
Oooh that looks satisfying & cool
Just enough gap from the turbo & engine area
The silicone join at the compressor outlet might be abit toasty near the T2 flange
Turbine outlet sitting level for the 2.25" elbow
Can just barely squeeze the dip-stick inbetween these runners
Found the gas-lens was once again faulty/blocked whereas the regular pink nozzles worked fine
I got carried away trying to smooth out every rough MIG weld with the TIG, forgetting I was putting too much heat/warpage on the runners until I realised the ends of the flange warped badly by 5mm
That's gonna be difficult to sand flat or I'd have to start over with a new flange?
After chatting with Jack, I decided the 1-piece flange & runners where straining each other, so I separated each flange & correct the warped #4 flange
Bolted onto the head, using it as a straight jig
Welded the warped flange back onto the runner
That's a little better to belt sand it flat later
Blanked off the ports to leak test the welds
Blowing air inside whilst submerged, there were afew leaks around the 10mm thick flange
Trying to TIG weld up every pin hole leak & retesting it only to find more leaks was seriously frustrating & putting too much heat into the flange
welding it up from the outside wasn't working so I TIG welded it from the inside of the port and that's finally sealed it up
Last step is to belt sand it flat & paint.
As a 1st attempt it definately ain't perfect, so many things went wrong, it tested my patience, hope I don't have to go through it all again lol but suppose it's part of building experience.
Curious to see if it works out
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
Ideally I wanted a long bench sander to flatten the whole flange evenly but they cost over £200!
Next choice is the old portable belt sander, some of them range from £50-180 fancy features (which I dont care about) but for this one-off task I managed to find a cheapo sander in argos for £33
It only has a 76x130mm flat base so I'll flatten the long flange bit by bit, checking with the straight rule
Compared to how I used to manually hand sand over a glass plate, this is much quicker
but it still takes awhile to remove over 1mm of warpage.
The ends of the flange where it's most warped will take ages to flatten but I think I'll just machine enough off the overall area until it barely covers the gasket surfaces
Turbo flange was much easier to flatten
Next choice is the old portable belt sander, some of them range from £50-180 fancy features (which I dont care about) but for this one-off task I managed to find a cheapo sander in argos for £33
It only has a 76x130mm flat base so I'll flatten the long flange bit by bit, checking with the straight rule
Compared to how I used to manually hand sand over a glass plate, this is much quicker
but it still takes awhile to remove over 1mm of warpage.The ends of the flange where it's most warped will take ages to flatten but I think I'll just machine enough off the overall area until it barely covers the gasket surfaces
Turbo flange was much easier to flatten
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
Tday removed the current standard cast manifold
Old vs new manifold
This catch can / shield plate was in the way so needs removing. I'll make a new shield & relocate the catch cans at some point
Fitted the new header
Refined the downpipe to include a V-band join & position the wideband sensor to the side for easy access & good flow
Marked where to cut on the downpipe
I can now weld the V-band on at the correct angle
Joining the new cat onto the T2 flange required a 9 deg slope cut, so I marked it using some paper drawing
Chopped
For welding access I attached the wideband sensor nut on first
& then welded the flange & V-band onto the ends
All installed
It looks sooo good
Whilst fitting the header I also test fitted the turbo inside the bay
The alternator cable & dipstick barely clears the compressor
dipstick angle & the compressor-to-wastegate line may need some adjustment
After dinner I fired up the engine and she starts very immediately/freely.
No leaks anywhere.
As the header heats up, the VHT paint obviously smoking/curing for afew mins.
Exhaust sounds a little smoother, quieter & doesn't resonate the house windows as much as compared to the standard manifold.
AFR throughout idle/cruising/WOT were the same so map won't need much tweaking which is a relief.
Driving her at night, the low-end torque seems kinda the same, mid-high end felt very slightly better & smoother delivery (dunno if that's the cool night air too)
Something noticably different is a resonating exhaust drone at exactly 3k rpm (cruising at 70)
Old vs new manifold
This catch can / shield plate was in the way so needs removing. I'll make a new shield & relocate the catch cans at some point
Fitted the new header
Refined the downpipe to include a V-band join & position the wideband sensor to the side for easy access & good flow
Marked where to cut on the downpipe
I can now weld the V-band on at the correct angle
Joining the new cat onto the T2 flange required a 9 deg slope cut, so I marked it using some paper drawing
Chopped
For welding access I attached the wideband sensor nut on first
& then welded the flange & V-band onto the ends
All installed
It looks sooo good
Whilst fitting the header I also test fitted the turbo inside the bay
The alternator cable & dipstick barely clears the compressor
dipstick angle & the compressor-to-wastegate line may need some adjustment
After dinner I fired up the engine
and she starts very immediately/freely.No leaks anywhere.
As the header heats up, the VHT paint obviously smoking/curing for afew mins.
Exhaust sounds a little smoother, quieter & doesn't resonate the house windows as much as compared to the standard manifold.
AFR throughout idle/cruising/WOT were the same so map won't need much tweaking which is a relief.
Driving her at night, the low-end torque seems kinda the same, mid-high end felt very slightly better & smoother delivery (dunno if that's the cool night air too
)Something noticably different is a resonating exhaust drone at exactly 3k rpm (cruising at 70)
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
This morning I saw the VHT paint over the grey primer has began to all crack/peel off 
Almost all peeled off from the heat tonight.
Guess I'll have to wirebrush it all off and spray the silver paint directly onto steel this time as mentioned on the spray can
Recorded a cheeky little rev with her new exhaust today
The tone is still the same but very slightly sporty rushing gas noise at the low end
On the way home her gear stick mount suddenly snapped off along the slip road while launching hard
Managed to barely select a gear & nurse her home few hours before tonights car meet
Looks like it was too thin weak, few stress points near the screws and the hollow in-fill didn't help
Quickly printed a slightly thicker mount in 40mins
Enough to make the car meet
Now that I ripped off that rubber dust boot, I'll redesign a more chunky stronger pivot mount next
Almost all peeled off from the heat tonight.
Guess I'll have to wirebrush it all off and spray the silver paint directly onto steel this time as mentioned on the spray can
Recorded a cheeky little rev with her new exhaust today
The tone is still the same but very slightly sporty rushing gas noise at the low end
On the way home her gear stick mount suddenly snapped off along the slip road while launching hard
Managed to barely select a gear & nurse her home few hours before tonights car meet
Looks like it was too thin weak, few stress points near the screws and the hollow in-fill didn't help
Quickly printed a slightly thicker mount in 40mins
Enough to make the car meet
Now that I ripped off that rubber dust boot, I'll redesign a more chunky stronger pivot mount next
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-11-15 Print Stronger Gear Stick Mount
After snapping the gearstick mount & ditching the rubber dust boot, I designed a much beefier mount
Uses the same ball socket insert sized to fit snug without binding
The green plate is pushed over the hex screws to lock & prevent them loosening
Printed
& feels much more solid
After snapping the gearstick mount & ditching the rubber dust boot, I designed a much beefier mount
Uses the same ball socket insert sized to fit snug without binding
The green plate is pushed over the hex screws to lock & prevent them loosening
Printed
& feels much more solid
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
2024-11-15 Repainted New Manifold
It seems the grey acrylic primer I applied by mistake (thinking it would've helped adhesion) turned to dust from being cooked by the heat therefore the hard cured VHT paint had nothing to cling onto and all peeled off
(well it did say on the spraycan no primer needed lol)
Wirebrushed & cleaned the mess off
& sprayed silver VHT directly onto steel this time, hope it works better
It seems the grey acrylic primer I applied by mistake (thinking it would've helped adhesion) turned to dust from being cooked by the heat therefore the hard cured VHT paint had nothing to cling onto and all peeled off
(well it did say on the spraycan no primer needed lol)
Wirebrushed & cleaned the mess off
& sprayed silver VHT directly onto steel this time, hope it works better
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
Fitted the repainted manifold.
Made this shield for the front panel out of spare aluminium (similar to factory panel) to protect the engine/manifold/turbo from being blasted with weather (reduce rust), debris, cold air (keep exhaust hot for turbo) & help divert air through the radiator instead
Enough room to fit & protect the turbo layout.
The alloy shield also won't rust away from being blasted by incoming air.
Warmed up the engine, painted manifold smoking/curing again but for much shorter period.
Went for a blast around town to cook the VHT paint, once home & cooled down the VHT paint is still intact & cured correctly.
Lesson learnt is acrylic primer ain't heat resistant
Made this shield for the front panel out of spare aluminium (similar to factory panel) to protect the engine/manifold/turbo from being blasted with weather (reduce rust), debris, cold air (keep exhaust hot for turbo) & help divert air through the radiator instead
Enough room to fit & protect the turbo layout.
The alloy shield also won't rust away from being blasted by incoming air.
Warmed up the engine, painted manifold smoking/curing again but for much shorter period.
Went for a blast around town to cook the VHT paint, once home & cooled down the VHT paint is still intact & cured correctly.
Lesson learnt is acrylic primer ain't heat resistant
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
2024-11-16 Micra Cooling System Warm Up Sequence
Jack was having issues with his micra taking forever to warm up whereas mine heats up in few mins.
So I measured some temps to show how the system normally heats up.
Labelled some of the essential hoses I'll be feeling for.
Heater dial is turned to full cold so the heater matrix valve is closed allowing the engine to warmup quicker.
Coolant temp starting at 20deg, I fire up the engine & let it idle.
#After 3 mins:
Coolant: 45C
Heater Feed: Warming up
Heater Return: Cold
Rad Top Hose: Cold
Rad Core: Cold
#After 6 mins:
Coolant: 63C
Heater Feed: Warming up
Heater Return: Cold
Rad Top Hose: Warming up
Rad Core: Cold
#After 9 mins:
Coolant: 70C
Heater Feed: Hot
Heater Return: Cold
Rad Top Hose: Warming up
Rad Core: Cold
#After 13 mins:
Coolant: 80C
Heater Feed: Hot
Heater Return: Warming up
Rad Top Hose: Warming up
Rad Core: Cold
#After 15 mins:
Coolant: 83C
Heater Feed: Hot
Heater Return: Warming up
Rad Top Hose: Hot
Rad Core: Hot
Thermostat valve cracks open at 82C,
Hot coolant from engine enters into the radiator core,
The stone cold coolant from the radiator core & return hose joins the cooling system,
Drops the coolant temp down to 77C
#After 16mins:
Coolant climbs back to 82C and stays there while the radiator core keeps getting hotter.
Eventually the radiator core is saturated with too much heat it cannot statically radiate away fast enough,
So the coolant temp rises towards 95C,
Once the ECU sensor gets over 95C it spins the cooling fan to cool the radiator core, bringing temps back down
Jack was having issues with his micra taking forever to warm up whereas mine heats up in few mins.
So I measured some temps to show how the system normally heats up.
Labelled some of the essential hoses I'll be feeling for.
Heater dial is turned to full cold so the heater matrix valve is closed allowing the engine to warmup quicker.
Coolant temp starting at 20deg, I fire up the engine & let it idle.
#After 3 mins:
Coolant: 45C
Heater Feed: Warming up
Heater Return: Cold
Rad Top Hose: Cold
Rad Core: Cold
#After 6 mins:
Coolant: 63C
Heater Feed: Warming up
Heater Return: Cold
Rad Top Hose: Warming up
Rad Core: Cold
#After 9 mins:
Coolant: 70C
Heater Feed: Hot
Heater Return: Cold
Rad Top Hose: Warming up
Rad Core: Cold
#After 13 mins:
Coolant: 80C
Heater Feed: Hot
Heater Return: Warming up
Rad Top Hose: Warming up
Rad Core: Cold
#After 15 mins:
Coolant: 83C
Heater Feed: Hot
Heater Return: Warming up
Rad Top Hose: Hot
Rad Core: Hot
Thermostat valve cracks open at 82C,
Hot coolant from engine enters into the radiator core,
The stone cold coolant from the radiator core & return hose joins the cooling system,
Drops the coolant temp down to 77C
#After 16mins:
Coolant climbs back to 82C and stays there while the radiator core keeps getting hotter.
Eventually the radiator core is saturated with too much heat it cannot statically radiate away fast enough,
So the coolant temp rises towards 95C,
Once the ECU sensor gets over 95C it spins the cooling fan to cool the radiator core, bringing temps back down
