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pollyp
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Mainly scattered within this blog. The shifter mount still needs refining imo cos the fasteners keep loosening up
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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
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pollyp
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Removed the used shaft
Trying to insert the inner CV joint into the gearbox was a PITA, unable to push it in.
Turns out they use this short kinked clip which pokes outside the spline too much and jamming the insertion.
Swapped it with the regular round C-clip instead
Installed & working nicely, there's almost no sloppy movement in the shaft
Trying to insert the inner CV joint into the gearbox was a PITA, unable to push it in.
Turns out they use this short kinked clip which pokes outside the spline too much and jamming the insertion.
Swapped it with the regular round C-clip instead
Installed & working nicely, there's almost no sloppy movement in the shaft
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pollyp
Club Member
The next thing to fix for the Porsche Spyder were some bushings for the gear selector shaft
there was surprisingly only 1 bushing per tube (one near the gear stick and the other underneath the engine) and they were seriously worn out
there's 2mm gap from the 18mm selector shaft!
ordered some nylon
cut to length
machined the outer groove & 18mm hole
2 new bushings fitted
now the shaft is supported with minimal play
there was surprisingly only 1 bushing per tube (one near the gear stick and the other underneath the engine) and they were seriously worn out
there's 2mm gap from the 18mm selector shaft!
ordered some nylon
cut to length
machined the outer groove & 18mm hole
2 new bushings fitted
now the shaft is supported with minimal play
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pollyp
Club Member
While cleaning the house, I gave these old BBS wheels a little jet wash, really need to sell these off to make room
I measured the spare driveshafts and damn it Nissan, why did they have to use soo many different splines?
Inner CV = 24T, 23.30 - 25.60mm
Driveshafts = 22T, 22.50 - 24.30mm
Outer CV = 23T, 22.10 - 23.80mm
I was hoping to use the broken left driveshaft to slot into the LSD for checking the LSD preload but the splines don't match. I'd have to sacrifice two inner CV joints instead
Recently on ebay I ordered some 40-56mm driveshaft oil seals to fix the leaking gearbox but received some smaller 25-40mm seals instead
Tday after contacting the seller they said keep the incorrect item & I received the correct 40-56mm seals, but curiously I wondered if the smaller seals fit the input shaft?
ooh they do!
so basically I purchased 2 driveshaft oil seals & got a pair of input shaft seals for free too
I measured the spare driveshafts and damn it Nissan, why did they have to use soo many different splines?
Inner CV = 24T, 23.30 - 25.60mm
Driveshafts = 22T, 22.50 - 24.30mm
Outer CV = 23T, 22.10 - 23.80mm
I was hoping to use the broken left driveshaft to slot into the LSD for checking the LSD preload but the splines don't match. I'd have to sacrifice two inner CV joints instead
Recently on ebay I ordered some 40-56mm driveshaft oil seals to fix the leaking gearbox but received some smaller 25-40mm seals instead
Tday after contacting the seller they said keep the incorrect item & I received the correct 40-56mm seals, but curiously I wondered if the smaller seals fit the input shaft?
ooh they do!
so basically I purchased 2 driveshaft oil seals & got a pair of input shaft seals for free too
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pollyp
Club Member
hehe it's a tasty dining tablethought ya had a massive bag of smarties as well there paul
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pollyp
Club Member
Stripping apart the spare power steering rack, which I converted into a manual rack yrs ago, to reattach a missing part
This rotary valve sleeve needed to be attached to keep the pinion in place (when it was previously missing, the pinion would jump off the bearing during right turns)
Covering the bearing surfaces
Welded the sleeve onto the shaft
Assembled & ready to try out someday
This rotary valve sleeve needed to be attached to keep the pinion in place (when it was previously missing, the pinion would jump off the bearing during right turns)
Covering the bearing surfaces
Welded the sleeve onto the shaft
Assembled & ready to try out someday
Great work Paul. If you do bushes like that in future consider using 'Nylatron' instead of 'Nylon', it has far better wear properties..... https://www.mcam.com/en/products/shapes/engineering/nylatron-ertalonThe next thing to fix for the Porsche Spyder were some bushings for the gear selector shaft
View attachment 88785
there was surprisingly only 1 bushing per tube (one near the gear stick and the other underneath the engine) and they were seriously worn out
View attachment 88784
View attachment 88793
there's 2mm gap from the 18mm selector shaft!
View attachment 88794
ordered some nylon
View attachment 88786
cut to length
View attachment 88787
machined the outer groove & 18mm hole
View attachment 88788
2 new bushings fitted
View attachment 88789
View attachment 88790
View attachment 88791
now the shaft is supported with minimal play
View attachment 88792
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pollyp
Club Member
checking the car over before the Unity Car Show, I noticed the throttle cable was slightly loose & didn't open WOT fully therefore during the recent datalog footage the TPS wasn't reaching 4.2kOhms, which might have affected the recent dyno results at santapod
the drivers door kept getting water stains and I figured the garden hose was leaking & dripping onto it
polished the stains away
added some extra stickers to balance out the boot decorations lol
the drivers door kept getting water stains and I figured the garden hose was leaking & dripping onto it
polished the stains away
added some extra stickers to balance out the boot decorations lol
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pollyp
Club Member
the adjustable gear stick mount kept shaking loose so I redesign it
rather than making a split adjustable ball-joint case, I match the original design but tailor the size of the insert to match the ball size
mounted the new casing over the ball-joint insert for a snug solid fitment
rather than making a split adjustable ball-joint case, I match the original design but tailor the size of the insert to match the ball size
mounted the new casing over the ball-joint insert for a snug solid fitment
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pollyp
Club Member
removed the strut brace containing the PAS hoses
bit more room without all that plumbing
removed the tie-rods
disconnect the column joint
removing the bulky PAS rack required lots of wriggling
power steering rack vs manually converted rack
fitted the manual rack but frustratingly whilst turning the wheels on the ground, the pinion once again kept clunking up/down by 5mm & popping this plastic dist cap off.
I'm sure I welded the rotary valve in the right spot
but looking back, what I previous thought was just a dust cap turned out to be a load bearing threaded cap which keeps the ball bearing secured to the rack to resist the pinion shaft thrust forces
so I machined a new cap
screwed on and now it doesn't clunk anymore and feels solid & secure
aligning the steering joint to the pinion splines so the steering wheel has equal amount of turns lock-lock
tied the throttle cable & loose loom out the way, ready to test drive
during startup, the throttle cable was slightly sticky so I rerouted it better
steering was obviously very heavy under 5mph, especially when turning lock-lock out the garage, leaving T-junctions & going slowly at roundabouts where the LSD engages, requiring slight change in driving habit.
5-30mph the steering weight felt normal.
at high speed the weight feels light, very responsive feedback during turn-in (great on track) but during mid-corner the wheel starts to feel slightly heavy under the cornering forces, especially when accelerating & the LSD locks up.
she also feels rather nippy.
dunno if it's the conditions, placebo effect, reduced weight or less hydraulic drag from the deleted power steering pump providing more HP to the wheels
I'll be curious to see if this also improves mpg too.
bit more room without all that plumbing
removed the tie-rods
disconnect the column joint
removing the bulky PAS rack required lots of wriggling
power steering rack vs manually converted rack
fitted the manual rack but frustratingly whilst turning the wheels on the ground, the pinion once again kept clunking up/down by 5mm & popping this plastic dist cap off.
I'm sure I welded the rotary valve in the right spot
but looking back, what I previous thought was just a dust cap turned out to be a load bearing threaded cap which keeps the ball bearing secured to the rack to resist the pinion shaft thrust forces
so I machined a new cap
screwed on and now it doesn't clunk anymore and feels solid & secure
aligning the steering joint to the pinion splines so the steering wheel has equal amount of turns lock-lock
tied the throttle cable & loose loom out the way, ready to test drive
during startup, the throttle cable was slightly sticky so I rerouted it better
steering was obviously very heavy under 5mph, especially when turning lock-lock out the garage, leaving T-junctions & going slowly at roundabouts where the LSD engages, requiring slight change in driving habit.
5-30mph the steering weight felt normal.
at high speed the weight feels light, very responsive feedback during turn-in (great on track) but during mid-corner the wheel starts to feel slightly heavy under the cornering forces, especially when accelerating & the LSD locks up.
she also feels rather nippy.
dunno if it's the conditions, placebo effect, reduced weight or less hydraulic drag from the deleted power steering pump providing more HP to the wheels
I'll be curious to see if this also improves mpg too.
removed the strut brace containing the PAS hoses
View attachment 88846
bit more room without all that plumbing
View attachment 88847
removed the tie-rods
View attachment 88848
disconnect the column joint
View attachment 88849
removing the bulky PAS rack required lots of wriggling
View attachment 88850
power steering rack vs manually converted rack
View attachment 88851
fitted the manual rack but frustratingly whilst turning the wheels on the ground, the pinion once again kept clunking up/down by 5mm & popping this plastic dist cap off.
I'm sure I welded the rotary valve in the right spot
View attachment 88852
but looking back, what I previous thought was just a dust cap turned out to be a load bearing threaded cap which keeps the ball bearing secured to the rack to resist the pinion shaft thrust forces
View attachment 88845
so I machined a new cap
View attachment 88853
View attachment 88854
screwed on and now it doesn't clunk anymore and feels solid & secure
View attachment 88857
aligning the steering joint to the pinion splines so the steering wheel has equal amount of turns lock-lock
View attachment 88858
tied the throttle cable & loose loom out the way, ready to test drive
View attachment 88855
View attachment 88856
during startup, the throttle cable was slightly sticky so I rerouted it better
steering was obviously very heavy under 5mph, especially when turning lock-lock out the garage, leaving T-junctions & going slowly at roundabouts where the LSD engages, requiring slight change in driving habit.
5-30mph the steering weight felt normal.
at high speed the weight feels light, very responsive feedback during turn-in (great on track) but during mid-corner the wheel starts to feel slightly heavy under the cornering forces, especially when accelerating & the LSD locks up.
she also feels rather nippy.
dunno if it's the conditions, placebo effect, reduced weight or less hydraulic drag from the deleted power steering pump providing more HP to the wheels
I'll be curious to see if this also improves mpg too.
I always apply the “KISS Factor” & sought out & bought keep fit manual steering K11s, as its more reliable with less unnecessary complexity to go wrong in an old banger.
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pollyp
Club Member
I didn't like how far back the steering rack sat which makes the inner tie-rod lean forward alot and this limits the angle of the rod to the inside hub during full steering lock before it binds
Redesigned the mount inserts to seat the rack at the original distance from the bulkhead
The drivers mount, which supports all the lateral forces of the rack, was too loose so I modified it with a tighter fit on the bracket & a gap to squeeze the rack tightly
Test fit on the rack
Installed
Here you see the tie-rod angle during full-lock, shifted more forward so it doesn't bind as much
The next issue is the outer tie-rod end.
When sitting level, the rose-joint only has just enough clearance to reach the full 2.8 turns lock-lock steering
But when the inside wheel is at full droop (ie intense steering at a slalom course), the joint runs out of movement & binds up, potentially damaging it or limiting the steering to 2 turns lock-lock
Hub can't reach full lock-lock
So I'll need to machine the rose-joint spacers to give more clearance.
Neatened up the throttle cable & wiring layout
Redesigned the mount inserts to seat the rack at the original distance from the bulkhead
The drivers mount, which supports all the lateral forces of the rack, was too loose so I modified it with a tighter fit on the bracket & a gap to squeeze the rack tightly
Test fit on the rack
Installed
Here you see the tie-rod angle during full-lock, shifted more forward so it doesn't bind as much
The next issue is the outer tie-rod end.
When sitting level, the rose-joint only has just enough clearance to reach the full 2.8 turns lock-lock steering
But when the inside wheel is at full droop (ie intense steering at a slalom course), the joint runs out of movement & binds up, potentially damaging it or limiting the steering to 2 turns lock-lock
Hub can't reach full lock-lock
So I'll need to machine the rose-joint spacers to give more clearance.
Neatened up the throttle cable & wiring layout
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-09-04 Replace Broken Radiator Fan
Yesterday I spotted the radiator fan support was broken
No idea how it happened, maybe something on the engine hit it, probably from the hard two launches recently at Santapod?
So I visited Jack for a spare fan and saw the later facelift fans appear more efficient & stronger.
The preface has 5 thin yellow blades while the newer fan has 6 curved blades with integrated shroud to improve efficiency (helps pull air through a denser radiator core at higher pressure?)
facelift fan has a stiffer frame, bigger motor, heavier fan blade
Footage of both fans running.
Old fan is lighter & spins up / spools down very quickly, spins at a slower quieter rpm & creates lots of turbulance.
The newer heavier fan has slightly more inertia so it spins up gradually and spools down very gently, it spins at a higher pitch & louder rpm to create that extra pressure with abit less turbulance at the sides
Yesterday I spotted the radiator fan support was broken
No idea how it happened, maybe something on the engine hit it, probably from the hard two launches recently at Santapod?
So I visited Jack for a spare fan and saw the later facelift fans appear more efficient & stronger.
The preface has 5 thin yellow blades while the newer fan has 6 curved blades with integrated shroud to improve efficiency (helps pull air through a denser radiator core at higher pressure?)
facelift fan has a stiffer frame, bigger motor, heavier fan blade
Footage of both fans running.
Old fan is lighter & spins up / spools down very quickly, spins at a slower quieter rpm & creates lots of turbulance.
The newer heavier fan has slightly more inertia so it spins up gradually and spools down very gently, it spins at a higher pitch & louder rpm to create that extra pressure with abit less turbulance at the sides
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pollyp
Club Member
The old air filter shield kept slipping off the ducting and the chassis lip was denting the top
edited & printed a new one after 12hrs
replace old with new
curved top now clears the chassis and the added lip around the ducting helps keep the heat shield locked on
2mths after fitting the LSD, the gear oil definately needs changing
may as well take out the gearbox to adjust the lsd & replace input bearing
edited & printed a new one after 12hrs
replace old with new
curved top now clears the chassis and the added lip around the ducting helps keep the heat shield locked on
2mths after fitting the LSD, the gear oil definately needs changing
may as well take out the gearbox to adjust the lsd & replace input bearing
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-09-07 Remove Gearbox & Rebuild LSD
While disconnecting the gearbox I noticed, ohh some of the gearbox bolts were loose might explain the oil leak & brief cold start rough bearing noise
Removed shafts
Removed the box
Check the clutch soon. gotta clean the gear oil spray off the bulkhead too
Opening up the gearbox, most of the case bolts were loose so gotta tighten em up more next time
new LSD cover holding up gr8 & shiny
Measuring all the plates, they've barely worn at all but wasn't happy with the 0nm preload so gonna rearrange with more preload
The preload washer hasn't shattered this time but it's been squeezed down from 3.75mm brand-new down to 3.68mm total height, resulting in some lost preload
Rearranged it using thicker clutch plates to compress the belville washer with 44% preload
Threadlocked all the bolts to 14Nm
To measure the LSD preload, I cut & welded a 1/2" socket onto the broken driveshaft to make an adapter tool
It slots into the spare inner CV joints so I don't have to cut & destroy them for a tool
Now I can clamp one inner joint on the vice,
insert the LSD,
insert the other inner joint on top,
& then attach my torque wrench with the adapter shaft to measure the preload in both directions
Giving the LSD 44% of preload may have been overkill cos considering this 1-sided diff is very direction biased,
when I spin it clockwise (simulating turning left) we have a preload torque of 25nm,
but once I spin it counter-clockwise (turning right) the LSD ramp wedges & locks up solid immediately well beyond my 200nm torque wrench limit lol.
Safe to say the wheel will be skipping along the floor with hard steering every time I leave the back alley garage with tight right turns
While disconnecting the gearbox I noticed, ohh some of the gearbox bolts were loose
might explain the oil leak & brief cold start rough bearing noise
Removed shafts
Removed the box
Check the clutch soon. gotta clean the gear oil spray off the bulkhead too
Opening up the gearbox, most of the case bolts were loose so gotta tighten em up more next time
new LSD cover holding up gr8 & shiny
Measuring all the plates, they've barely worn at all but wasn't happy with the 0nm preload so gonna rearrange with more preload
The preload washer hasn't shattered this time but it's been squeezed down from 3.75mm brand-new down to 3.68mm total height, resulting in some lost preload
Rearranged it using thicker clutch plates to compress the belville washer with 44% preload
Threadlocked all the bolts to 14Nm
To measure the LSD preload, I cut & welded a 1/2" socket onto the broken driveshaft to make an adapter tool
It slots into the spare inner CV joints so I don't have to cut & destroy them for a tool
Now I can clamp one inner joint on the vice,
insert the LSD,
insert the other inner joint on top,
& then attach my torque wrench with the adapter shaft to measure the preload in both directions
Giving the LSD 44% of preload may have been overkill cos considering this 1-sided diff is very direction biased,
when I spin it clockwise (simulating turning left) we have a preload torque of 25nm,
but once I spin it counter-clockwise (turning right) the LSD ramp wedges & locks up solid immediately well beyond my 200nm torque wrench limit lol.
Safe to say the wheel will be skipping along the floor with hard steering every time I leave the back alley garage with tight right turns
Last edited:
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-09-08 Tighten Gear Selector Mechanism
Next issue to fix is the gear selector mechanism which has a noticable amount of side-side play when in-gear, which contributes to some sloppy feeling engagement & rattling gear-stick
You can see in the footage the 1mm of play in the whole thing as I wriggle the selector
To remove the selector, I punch out the 3mm & 5mm roll-pins
Selector shaft removed
Checking the selector finger closely, the finger is 5.65mm wide but the biggest cause is the swinging selector mechanism which has a massive gap of upto 6.50mm due to how loose they're riveted together
The selector finger & the sliding follower has a gap of 0.46mm and that limits how much I can widen the finger
So I add a dab of weld
Carefully file it down to the new 6.20mm thickness
Now you see how close it slides
Selecting 1st/2nd you can see the gap is much tighter
But in the other gears, it's actually the loosely riveted swinging mechanism above which is letting it down.
overall it feels much more precise than before.
While here, I'll replace the input shaft bearing too
Replace the input seal & driveshaft seals
Gearbox reassembled, tightened the casing to 17nm
Next issue to fix is the gear selector mechanism which has a noticable amount of side-side play when in-gear, which contributes to some sloppy feeling engagement & rattling gear-stick
You can see in the footage the 1mm of play in the whole thing as I wriggle the selector
To remove the selector, I punch out the 3mm & 5mm roll-pins
Selector shaft removed
Checking the selector finger closely, the finger is 5.65mm wide but the biggest cause is the swinging selector mechanism which has a massive gap of upto 6.50mm due to how loose they're riveted together
The selector finger & the sliding follower has a gap of 0.46mm and that limits how much I can widen the finger
So I add a dab of weld
Carefully file it down to the new 6.20mm thickness
Now you see how close it slides
Selecting 1st/2nd you can see the gap is much tighter
But in the other gears, it's actually the loosely riveted swinging mechanism above which is letting it down.
overall it feels much more precise than before.
While here, I'll replace the input shaft bearing too
Replace the input seal & driveshaft seals
Gearbox reassembled, tightened the casing to 17nm
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pollyp
Club Member
Gearbox fitted & filled with 3L fresh oil
Went out to test the new setup
Initially leaving the garage, the steering is still heavy & LSD stutter slightly cos it needs a warm up to circulate the fresh fluids throughout the clutch plates.
But the moment I went down my street the biggest difference I notice now with 44% preload is that the LSD engagement is really progressive & quiet with almost no chatter
Previously it used to have very low preload, which made it jump immediately straight up the 80% ramp, locking the plates very hard and the unsecured plates just chattered/shaked loudly.
It's abit counter-intuative but it seems the tighter preload of the belville washer keeps all the clutch plates secure under constant pressure and stops them from vibrating around loosely, which also stops the loud chatter.
The high preload also keeps the side-gear cross-pins seated deeper within the LSD 80%/30% ramps, this means it has a more progressive, smooth & consistant ramp operation without the sudden 'snap' when I lift throttle mid-corner.
Finally the modified gear selector mechanism has helped stop the gear stick from shaking around while cruising
Went out to test the new setup
Initially leaving the garage, the steering is still heavy & LSD stutter slightly cos it needs a warm up to circulate the fresh fluids throughout the clutch plates.
But the moment I went down my street the biggest difference I notice now with 44% preload is that the LSD engagement is really progressive & quiet with almost no chatter
Previously it used to have very low preload, which made it jump immediately straight up the 80% ramp, locking the plates very hard and the unsecured plates just chattered/shaked loudly.
It's abit counter-intuative but it seems the tighter preload of the belville washer keeps all the clutch plates secure under constant pressure and stops them from vibrating around loosely, which also stops the loud chatter.
The high preload also keeps the side-gear cross-pins seated deeper within the LSD 80%/30% ramps, this means it has a more progressive, smooth & consistant ramp operation without the sudden 'snap' when I lift throttle mid-corner.
Finally the modified gear selector mechanism has helped stop the gear stick from shaking around while cruising
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-09-14 Replace Peugeot 307 Brakes
The old brakes on the Peugeot was really rusty, scored, worn out, weak & needed replacing badly
These silly tiny torx screws on peugeots are soo annoying at rounding
So welded nuts onto the ends
Fresh, smooth & working brakes on all 4 wheels
The old brakes on the Peugeot was really rusty, scored, worn out, weak & needed replacing badly
These silly tiny torx screws on peugeots are soo annoying at rounding
So welded nuts onto the ends
Fresh, smooth & working brakes on all 4 wheels
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pollyp
Club Member
After driving the new LSD afew more miles getting the oil deeper within the plates & bedding them in, the preload torque when spinning the wheel by hand seem to have gone down very slightly although it still locks hard during right turns.
On another note, the coolant bottle previously mounted behind the headlight has cracked the plastic mount, so I bolted it securely on the chassis beam instead
On another note, the coolant bottle previously mounted behind the headlight has cracked the plastic mount, so I bolted it securely on the chassis beam instead
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pollyp
Club Member
2024-09-13 Replace Throttle Cable
The old throttle cable was slightly sticky & needed replacing
Machined the crimped outer cable off the threaded cable adjuster so I can re-use it
Assembled with new bicycle brake cable
This dremel chuck is bolted onto the throttle pedal for holding the inner cable
feed the new cable through the hole, trim to length
Insert a bolt within the dremel chuck to clamp onto the inner cable
Routed the outer cable at a smoother path
The old throttle cable was slightly sticky & needed replacing
Machined the crimped outer cable off the threaded cable adjuster so I can re-use it
Assembled with new bicycle brake cable
This dremel chuck is bolted onto the throttle pedal for holding the inner cable
feed the new cable through the hole, trim to length
Insert a bolt within the dremel chuck to clamp onto the inner cable
Routed the outer cable at a smoother path
