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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
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pollyp
Club Member
ok lady at BC said they need to place order at taiwan factory by 4pm in order to make the friday shipment and they definately only take 1 week, tried ringing you h701 several times bout if it's arrived at urs but no pickup.
it's been 4 weeks, dunno if u placed an order or required payment up front n shouldve lemme known weeks ago but I can't wait any longer.
rang louise at BC and ordered a pair of V1 rears for £194, andy h701 if they havent arrived at urs yet could you cancel my order.
btw payment for BSR stand at JAE, what paypal should I sent it to?
it's been 4 weeks, dunno if u placed an order or required payment up front n shouldve lemme known weeks ago but I can't wait any longer.
rang louise at BC and ordered a pair of V1 rears for £194, andy h701 if they havent arrived at urs yet could you cancel my order.
btw payment for BSR stand at JAE, what paypal should I sent it to?
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pollyp
Club Member
andy h701 called, he's alright with cancelling the damper order cheers m8.
ok decided whilst waiting another week for the new dampers,
I may as well start removing this gearbox & flywheel,
trace & resolve this oil leak,
get my JUN flywheel machined to fit the current 200mm PP,
order another T2 flange and weld it to the current manifold as a quick fix for next trackday,
then I pop down to h701 to collect me manifold jig & flange & slowly fabricate it myself afterwards before the trip to germany fingers xx
side note about andys stand at JAE, sounds abit awquid to organise this year but apparantly we have to order our own tickets seperately via JAE website to enter the gates and then it's upto the clubs themselves to organise their stand :/ ah well
ok decided whilst waiting another week for the new dampers,
I may as well start removing this gearbox & flywheel,
trace & resolve this oil leak,
get my JUN flywheel machined to fit the current 200mm PP,
order another T2 flange and weld it to the current manifold as a quick fix for next trackday,
then I pop down to h701 to collect me manifold jig & flange & slowly fabricate it myself afterwards before the trip to germany fingers xx
side note about andys stand at JAE, sounds abit awquid to organise this year but apparantly we have to order our own tickets seperately via JAE website to enter the gates and then it's upto the clubs themselves to organise their stand :/ ah well
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
at japshow I'm there for weekend, meetup at the services 10:30
at JAE I booked the thursday onwards ticket, dunno when h701 planning on arriving or if there's any stands/gazebo etc planned but he's sorting that.
dunno if u been before but tis usually turn up, say hi, put up tents, put up gazebo stands etc, sit drink eat chill etc
h701micra
Deactivated Account
Yup. Pretty awkward on the JAE part.
Didn't have an order to cancel as it wasn't confirmed that I wanted it. Usually when I pay for something I want it lol. Ah well all resolved
As for JAE stand I'll be first through the gates lol. Marquee and geberator all semi organised
Didn't have an order to cancel as it wasn't confirmed that I wanted it. Usually when I pay for something I want it lol. Ah well all resolved
As for JAE stand I'll be first through the gates lol. Marquee and geberator all semi organised
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
Yup. Pretty awkward on the JAE part.
Didn't have an order to cancel as it wasn't confirmed that I wanted it. Usually when I pay for something I want it lol. Ah well all resolved
As for JAE stand I'll be first through the gates lol. Marquee and geberator all semi organised
was it not ordered in the first place?
aye will see u sometime after it opens. marquee and gerbilator? ur running ur stands power supply off gerbils?
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
Alright cheers Paul, I'll be at Japshow. Just need to buy tickets for JAE now, guess I'll John Andy on his stand but I'll be rocking back and forth between the two camps
yea but least we have all day weekends to wonder back n forth and least it's just round the corner
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
poured all the UV dye in the oil, went for a drive to work it through the system, drained the gearbox
not much debris since last trackday at blyton
gearbox off, stained with oil
clutch & flywheel off
tried to locate the oil leak with the lamp but was hard to tell cos the faint dye is splashed all over, probably from the previous UV attempts.
think the new dye hasn't had time to leak out properly cos if I drained the oil it appears much brighter under than lamp than the faint oil smear round the flywheel, meh.
but from the faint stains, the rear crank seal area appears clear so it ain't the seal. the sump gasket appears intact with no strong signs of leaking.
the one thing I'm sure could leak is this dodgy main oil gallery end plug, maybe not tight enough?
I'm gonna order yet another copper seal from the dealers and then really tighten this plug till I round the allen head off to be sure
really need to replace this damn front chassis cos the crossmember is now splitting
yet another problem with the soft Alu gearbox rear bolt hole cracked off.
looks like it's been cracked since last fitting and no point trying to waste money getting it tig welded on.
instead I'm gonna modify the rear bracket to bolt onto the other un-used bolt holes nearby
here's the current heavy concave flywheel
can see the flywheel side of the clutch plate is only touching approx 1/2 of the face
the PP side of the plate looks good
the 200mm plate fits over the JUN flywheel like this
the worn outer section of the clutch plate will miss these holes in the flywheel for the first few k's
lining the PP over the flywheel
just enough room to machine the bolt holes at the three corner sections
off to the machinist tomorrow, don't care how £££ or how long it'll take, has to be done.
not much debris since last trackday at blyton
gearbox off, stained with oil
clutch & flywheel off
tried to locate the oil leak with the lamp but was hard to tell cos the faint dye is splashed all over, probably from the previous UV attempts.
think the new dye hasn't had time to leak out properly cos if I drained the oil it appears much brighter under than lamp than the faint oil smear round the flywheel, meh.
but from the faint stains, the rear crank seal area appears clear so it ain't the seal. the sump gasket appears intact with no strong signs of leaking.
the one thing I'm sure could leak is this dodgy main oil gallery end plug, maybe not tight enough?
I'm gonna order yet another copper seal from the dealers and then really tighten this plug till I round the allen head off to be sure
really need to replace this damn front chassis cos the crossmember is now splitting
yet another problem with the soft Alu gearbox rear bolt hole cracked off.
looks like it's been cracked since last fitting and no point trying to waste money getting it tig welded on.
instead I'm gonna modify the rear bracket to bolt onto the other un-used bolt holes nearby
here's the current heavy concave flywheel
can see the flywheel side of the clutch plate is only touching approx 1/2 of the face
the PP side of the plate looks good
the 200mm plate fits over the JUN flywheel like this
the worn outer section of the clutch plate will miss these holes in the flywheel for the first few k's
lining the PP over the flywheel
just enough room to machine the bolt holes at the three corner sections
off to the machinist tomorrow, don't care how £££ or how long it'll take, has to be done.
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
Hmm just checked me email from apex perf parts bout me rear damper order and it says BC D-03 BR damper rear micra K11.
I'm pretty sure I told louise mine's the V1 series and she said she'll pass the info over to the factory.
but just incase they sent me the BR series, Huggy444 I recall you use the BR series, do you or h701 have any pics of the rear dampers? they must have the same fittings, appearance and perform near enough the same?
I'm pretty sure I told louise mine's the V1 series and she said she'll pass the info over to the factory.
but just incase they sent me the BR series, Huggy444 I recall you use the BR series, do you or h701 have any pics of the rear dampers? they must have the same fittings, appearance and perform near enough the same?
Rear BRs look like this Paul. Same firment but a bigger stronger one piece lower unit that threads up the main body like the fronts.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gtzx3k5egrekimi/IMG_8571.JPG
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x1pbro5qu6rxgvf/IMG_8572.JPG
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gtzx3k5egrekimi/IMG_8571.JPG
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x1pbro5qu6rxgvf/IMG_8572.JPG
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
went to a local machinist, he said the guy he uses to resurface steel flywheels on holiday for another week and he'll require a crankshaft to mount & balance the whole assembly, wtf I'm not taking the crank assembly out of my current engine.
even if I use a spare crankshaft from the old engines, he'll balance the crank then balance the fly then balance the PP, can see the labour cost rocket up. estimated it at least £120+
since the next track could be end of month, I can't wait a month n went to another shop.
went to another shop in next town, figured since the current crank and PP was balanced together and the JUN flywheel is perfectly new I could prob get away with simply machining the flywheel.
so they'd resurface the flywheel flat, lathe a centering shaft to center the PP diaphram fingers to the flywheel hole, drill & tap the new bolt holes, then drill the new locating pin holes on the PP.
left it with them to quote & call me back to be done prob by end of week and dread how much but fookit
spare T2 flange arrived so will be welding this to the current manifold
with abit of the rear mount bolt hole cracked off, I screwed some threaded bar onto the remaining threads in the gearbox casing and will tighten a nut on the end
to stiffen this clutch cable mount and stop it flexing under load, welding a bar to the gearbox mount might bend under compression, welding a bar sideways to the starter motor 14mm bolt may not stop it moving forward
a closer look, what if I lock the arm from behind onto these bolts on the starter nearby
so cut some reinforcement bracket
after some patchy welding, now there's no chance of flexing
even if I use a spare crankshaft from the old engines, he'll balance the crank then balance the fly then balance the PP, can see the labour cost rocket up. estimated it at least £120+
since the next track could be end of month, I can't wait a month n went to another shop.
went to another shop in next town, figured since the current crank and PP was balanced together and the JUN flywheel is perfectly new I could prob get away with simply machining the flywheel.
so they'd resurface the flywheel flat, lathe a centering shaft to center the PP diaphram fingers to the flywheel hole, drill & tap the new bolt holes, then drill the new locating pin holes on the PP.
left it with them to quote & call me back to be done prob by end of week and dread how much but fookit
spare T2 flange arrived so will be welding this to the current manifold
with abit of the rear mount bolt hole cracked off, I screwed some threaded bar onto the remaining threads in the gearbox casing and will tighten a nut on the end
to stiffen this clutch cable mount and stop it flexing under load, welding a bar to the gearbox mount might bend under compression, welding a bar sideways to the starter motor 14mm bolt may not stop it moving forward
a closer look, what if I lock the arm from behind onto these bolts on the starter nearby
so cut some reinforcement bracket
after some patchy welding, now there's no chance of flexing
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
I dunno if it flexs bout as much on a standard light PP but shown in this video with my heavy 200mm helix PP the mount flexes approx 2-3mm, so after pushing my pedal X mm down, I've lost 2-3mm of it to flexing which could've been utilised towards the clutch mechanism travel.
cos this PP requires such a long travel distance from fully slack to clutch fully disengaged and with barely enough pedal travel,
I need to eliminate as much sloppiness out the system so that I'm able to fully disengage the clutch when pedal's down and then fully engage the clutch & slacken the release bearing (reducing its wear) when pedal's fully up.
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pollyp
Club Member
welded the nut to the end of the shaft for screwing fully into the gearbox hole and then the inner nut tightens against the rear mount
finished off welding & painting the clutch bracket on the bench, welding angle & position makes a big difference to weld quality, prob cos of gravity affecting the weld pool
finished off welding & painting the clutch bracket on the bench, welding angle & position makes a big difference to weld quality, prob cos of gravity affecting the weld pool
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pollyp
Club Member
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
time to fix this leaking manifold. obviously can't drive to andy to pickup the jig n stuff so gotta make another one. manifold removed & yup been leaking at the front & rear as usual
underneath the gasket also been leaking front & rear
drilled & bolted square tubes onto the studs to begin the jig
welded these supports to hold the jig together
bolted the jig to the turbo mani
welded a backbone to join the head section to the turbo section
an issue here at the rear stud of the turbo flange is the nut's already too close to the angled manifold wall. the thicker 10mm flange will move it even further up into the manifold so will have to figure ouot a solution later
cutting the manifold off the old turbo flange, Behold, a broken turbo mani
notice the manifold port is shorter & wider then the new flanges hole. has a 3-4mm wall thickness. will take some work to fit & seal it solid
bolted the mani to the jig
got alot of trimming to do tomorrow
underneath the gasket also been leaking front & rear
drilled & bolted square tubes onto the studs to begin the jig
welded these supports to hold the jig together
bolted the jig to the turbo mani
welded a backbone to join the head section to the turbo section
an issue here at the rear stud of the turbo flange is the nut's already too close to the angled manifold wall. the thicker 10mm flange will move it even further up into the manifold so will have to figure ouot a solution later
cutting the manifold off the old turbo flange, Behold, a broken turbo mani
notice the manifold port is shorter & wider then the new flanges hole. has a 3-4mm wall thickness. will take some work to fit & seal it solid
bolted the mani to the jig
got alot of trimming to do tomorrow
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
collected the oil gallery copper seal & an oil filter from dealers
marked how much to trim off
after alot of grinding to reduce the wall thickness n remove the old welds
now slips snugly under
this rear section will be a right challenge to join
the rear bolts are a mission to install so marked some slots to see if that improves access, plus marked more areas to trim n clear any nut & bolt heads
heavily grinded this area to give as much access to the nuts
slotted bolt holes
yup enough room for the bolts now
tacked in place
to ensure the flange always remains flat, tacked the edges to the jig. remove bolts and begin welding her up
marked how much to trim off
after alot of grinding to reduce the wall thickness n remove the old welds
now slips snugly under
this rear section will be a right challenge to join
the rear bolts are a mission to install so marked some slots to see if that improves access, plus marked more areas to trim n clear any nut & bolt heads
heavily grinded this area to give as much access to the nuts
slotted bolt holes
yup enough room for the bolts now
tacked in place
to ensure the flange always remains flat, tacked the edges to the jig. remove bolts and begin welding her up
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
first pass at the front
can't access the rear section with jig the the way so removed off the jig
with the mani welded to the flange, this is the big gap I'll have to fill
to block the hole to prevent the pool from simply dropping through I purposely brought this rod of Alu so the weld melts & sticks to mild steel but not Alu cos it simply conducts the heat away and doesn't stick, could also use copper or bronze.
it's worked. took some work to slowly bridge it bit by bit but it's sealed
the alu rod holding up the pool the create a flat underside
second pass to bulk up the join
this huge step won't help with flow
so I attempted to build some weld on the corner but just did one pass cos was worried of warping the thick flange. so that's it, , one turbo mani complete, just need to sand flat the flange to finish it off
can't access the rear section with jig the the way so removed off the jig
with the mani welded to the flange, this is the big gap I'll have to fill
to block the hole to prevent the pool from simply dropping through I purposely brought this rod of Alu so the weld melts & sticks to mild steel but not Alu cos it simply conducts the heat away and doesn't stick, could also use copper or bronze.
it's worked. took some work to slowly bridge it bit by bit but it's sealed
the alu rod holding up the pool the create a flat underside
second pass to bulk up the join
this huge step won't help with flow
so I attempted to build some weld on the corner but just did one pass cos was worried of warping the thick flange. so that's it, , one turbo mani complete, just need to sand flat the flange to finish it off
@pollyp i have finally caught up with your thread... i am speechless! what an amazing journey for you your car and everyone who reads it start to finish! you know when you watch a long box set in every spare minute of time you have and then when it finishes you don't know what to do with yourself, well i could almost say that apart from i was reading on and off for about 3 weeks now I've caught up i can keep on top of it and read day by day *thank god*
love the car mate
now I've caught up i can keep on top of it and read day by day *thank god*love the car mate
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
@pollyp i have finally caught up with your thread... i am speechless! what an amazing journey for you your car and everyone who reads it start to finish! you know when you watch a long box set in every spare minute of time you have and then when it finishes you don't know what to do with yourself, well i could almost say that apart from i was reading on and off for about 3 weeks
love the car mate
u read all 130+ pages? well done lad, should get an achievement trophy for that
thx for the compliments, been quite a journey of ups n downs.
speaking of watching long boxsets I'm myself currently watching all 4 seasons of the knightrider boxset me sista got me, brill
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pollyp
Club Member
134 I believe
Love how much effort you put into everything and most things you get you go through the process of stripping it all down to understand how it works!! I might have to check it out
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tis a habit of mine.
combination of curiousity,
learn how it works,
optionally measure few parameters to help diagnostics in future,
then reassemble correctly cos from my experience of all mass produced products, they're rarely assembled perfectly.
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
if my flywheel & new dampers are ready n installed by next week I was hoping to goto blyton open pit on 28th june before japshow on 5th july
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pollyp
Club Member
Yep
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
I've sent off drawings for laser cutting flanges Paul
I'll send you the prices etc
10mm 304 Stainless Steel
thx m8. btw the turbo flange is mild steel, could I weld stainless pipes on that with stainless rods? or perhaps I should get a stainless turbo flange to make life easier?
u got any tight bend stainless pipes or shall I buy some stainless U-bends myself? think we should verify which size pipes r obtainable before finally submitting the laser cutting order due to the required hole size.
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
sweet
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
flange was very slightly warped from the weld so after few mins of sanding got it flat again
bolted it up
not gonna bother with a support brace tbh cos cba and this is a temporary manifold till I make the stainless tubular one
the thin gasket has shifted the turbo elbow up much closer to the alternator so bent one of the terminals to hopefully clear it from shorting
k turbo mani fixed
bolted it up
not gonna bother with a support brace tbh cos cba and this is a temporary manifold till I make the stainless tubular one
the thin gasket has shifted the turbo elbow up much closer to the alternator so bent one of the terminals to hopefully clear it from shorting
k turbo mani fixed
Depends on cost, guessing it's £109 again? Not too bad if split with a mate, may well see you there
Will let you know
