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PollyMobiles Rebuild

pollyp said:
good news.

ebay has got back to me this morning and have agreed with my case.
so they sent me a pre-paid postage label to cover returns.
once the items returned, I'll be fully refunded the original item & postage cost. :cool:
Click to expand...
Glad its getting sorted relatively simply.

Many years ago I had to report a seller to pay pal for a cylinder head that never arrived.
Went through the whole process and did not get a refund as the seller had no money in their account, I put it down to experience and tried to forget about the whole thing. Nearly a year later I spotted a random credit paid into my pay pal, it turned out that the seller had now sold something else and PayPal took what he owed me before it even reached his account :)
 
looking back it turns out I'd totally forgotten to tighten the dizzy top mount bolts ever since I last fitted the engine back in sept before jae causing the constant big oil leak, oops :confused:
all fixed now and no longer leaks.

http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-94#post-631319

DSC08738 copy.jpg
 
h701micra said:
Simple things eh Paul
At least your cylinders are dry now though ;)
Click to expand...

Iknow, even though I try to be as precise n systematically organised as possible assembling it, I do make human errors n forget bout the little minor things

could even pinpoint the moment @ 5:38 in this clip, just placing the dizzy mount, only screwing in and tightening the exh cam caps as usual but forgot bout the dizzy mount bolts n continued over to the inlet cams:rolleyes:



good to see the pistons r now bout 90-95% dry as I slowly fix the tiny niggles n leaks, just needs more trackdays imo:D
 
dont mean to hijack but have you got a link to where you got your consult diagnostics from please and do you know if it would work on a p11 primera? thanks :)
 
Belly93 said:
dont mean to hijack but have you got a link to where you got your consult diagnostics from please and do you know if it would work on a p11 primera? thanks :)
Click to expand...

got my consult cable and nissan datascan license from a company called Blazt but they don't exist anymore.
you can get them from nissandatascan.com or ebay
 
indeed. it used to consume 3/4 dipstick per week but now its only gone down 3mm a week after sealing the dizzy hole and the trackday reduced the wet piston
 
ever since I had this car few yrs ago, there's always been this odd occasional "knock" from the rear left when:
- driving in town
- turning from the highly cambered street road into the backyard (twists the chassis)
- the rear left wheel hits a bump or hole
but its quiet on motorways.

recently its been getting abit worse. I originally thought is was either loose damper nut, loose/worn swaybar droplinks, any loose suspension nut, loose handbrake cable mount,
but all the nuts were tight, tightened the damper strut nuts some more, no loose joints, droplinks were new and handbrake cables mounted solid.
yet it still rattled/knock when I was driving into work from carriageway into the streets but then whilst turning there was a loud KNOCK from the back and then it kinda remained silent for the day.

next day it was mostly silent except if the rear left wheel went over a bump so it was still kinda there. this had me baffled for few yrs.
this morning washed the car n went out for a drive to warm/dry her up and it still occasionally knocked abit, wth is causing it.

popped the boot to recheck the damper nuts and were still tight n solid but grabbed the boot latch loop and noticed its abit slack?

DSC09027.JPG


the bolts were tight but the loop itself is riveted to the bracket and seems to be rocking abit loose.

DSC09028.JPG


the rivet is clearly abit loose so I heated it with a blowtorch and a whack with a hammer to tighten the rivet clamp and now its solid.
we'll see in few days if that's worked and if the main knocking was from this latch whenever the chassis flexed from one direction to the other.
 
whilst driving out to dry/warm the car after a wash, I was just about to accelerate up a dual lane hill to overtake slower traffic when this hoody nobhead in his red 2L seat with blacked out badge (when its clearly a seat) gets up me back, then shoots up the hill past the slow lorry only to slow to 60 behind other traffic before it goes to single lane at the top. I overtook the lorry and had to slot in behind him anyway when the road went single lane. then he went 60 all the way before the overhead road meets the carriageway.

He went past the first southbound sign without any signal so I thought he must be heading north or straight on. so to avoid them I signalled to go southbound at the sign and he made a last sec signal/dash to the southbound exit as he prob spotted his rear view.

what a twak, I sense he's gonna be trouble as he intensionally joins the carriageway slowly at 60 wanting me to overtake and prob wants a drag :rolleyes:
but I patiently sit behind at 60 as the micra behind overtakes and just as he passes the first sign, I turn off to loop back into town.

trotting through a small 30mph country town then enter the 60 country road, the silly red seat rockets back up behind, he musta been storming through the town for revenge.
this boyricer twerp is wanting trouble o_O:rolleyes:
obviously couldn't corner cos I enter my usual fast swooping left right n uphill turns at 50 no braking required but his heavy seat falls back, only to tailgate again at the straight. whats the point ppl?

I just ignore n carry on driving normally within the limits. he follows me through town and I just cruise behind town traffic.
as I queue for the right roundbout turn, he prob got bored n goes left, towards out of town and I spot the silly boys grey hoody. what a pathetic clot :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
went for a drive tonight and after unscrewing the boot lids rubber feet to extend out more n take out the slack on the boot latch, its pretty much silent now :)
so with the lower latch hoop at it lowest position and the boot lid rubber bung at their tallest point, this boot lock hook must be in the wrong position or worn loose. look into it next weekend but luving the silence
 
grr the knocking is back. tried wrapping some tape round the boot & rear door lock hoops to reduce slack but no difference, still distinctive loose knock at the rear left corner when going over bumps or even when I slowly rock the rear left wheel over uneven road.

really need to remove the left damper n check the mounts
 
pollyp said:
grr the knocking is back. tried wrapping some tape round the boot & rear door lock hoops to reduce slack but no difference, still distinctive loose knock at the rear left corner when going over bumps or even when I slowly rock the rear left wheel over uneven road.

really need to remove the left damper n check the mounts
Click to expand...
Polly have u been under the car take a bar with u and check all the bushes by plying on bar, and knocks can be axle bushes ?


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checked all the nut bolts under there are tight and no play in the rubber & polly bushes.
this is a metal/metal knock as if the rear damper rod is really loose or the droplinks are really worn or loose.

gonna visually check if the rear dampers metal cup top mount is too close to the body and touching it.
 
I drove around with my missus in the back so she could locate the area of the knocking. Turned out to be the tailgate lock and also the tailgate was knocking on part of the car itself. I'll take a pic later so you can check for similar problems.
 
pollyp said:
checked all the nut bolts under there are tight and no play in the rubber & polly bushes.
this is a metal/metal knock as if the rear damper rod is really loose or the droplinks are really worn or loose.

gonna visually check if the rear dampers metal cup top mount is too close to the body and touching it.
Click to expand...
yes that's worth checking nothing is rubbing


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Agent_Sm1th said:
I drove around with my missus in the back so she could locate the area of the knocking. Turned out to be the tailgate lock and also the tailgate was knocking on part of the car itself. I'll take a pic later so you can check for similar problems.
Click to expand...

I don't have a missus or any helpers, just trial error :confused:
I tried the boot & door locks but little difference.

I theorise maybe the rear left upper rubber mount has perished/softened abit allowing the metal cup to get closer to the chassis n rubbing whenever a bump or twist pushes the wheel up?
enough of theory, lets stick the endoscope in and find factual causes:D
 
believe I've found the main cause.

checked the the rear damper top mount under the arch n thinking, that zip-tie head is abit close to the chassis lip. need to shift it over abit

DSC09029.JPG


so removed the damper nut, upper rubber mount and ahh just realised an error I missed out.
the small lip on the rubber mounts abit chewed and the shaft is resting offset and slightly rubbing against the edge of the hole

DSC09032.JPG
DSC09030.JPG


the right side looks better n centered so had no knocking noise

DSC09033.JPG


the damper shaft is narrower than the chassis hole and the upper rubber mounts (yellow) feature this tiny lip thats suppose to slot into this narrow gap to keep the shaft centred & away from the edge of the hole.

rear top mount1.jpg


all these yrs I've just been inserting the upper mount without noting this feature and has resulting in damaging this lip and allowing the shaft to sit too close to the lip.

rear top mount2.jpg


so this time I fully seat the lip of the mount into the gap and the lower mount underneath sits more central. the lower mounts rubber is fine. rotated the ziptie 180deg to clear the chassis too.

DSC09031.JPG


drove out the garage and it still clunked as I left. ffs:rolleyes:
as I stopped at the alley gate, I can hear it quiently clunk repeatedly as the car was rocking back forth on the cambered road.
engine off. even does it as I rock it by hand. wth is causing it?
listening at each corner its definately the rear left.
tried actually removing the damper top nut but it still clunks.

hear the fuel sloshing as I rock it, loose fuel assembly in the tank? Nah cos if I quickly rock one way, clunk and then hold the car still, its still sloshing about but the clunk stops.

next I noticed that if I apply weight to the rear and lower the suspension by sitting on the boot then rock the car, it stops clunking. hmm loose brake bias arm?

as I checked the arm and rock the car I found the cause of the clunk was actually a loose upper trailing arm bolto_O

DSC09037.JPG


removed the nut, bolt is seized onto the bush sleeve as usual so one side of the bush won't be tight then.
wirebrushed the threads

DSC09038.JPG


greased and torqued the nut

DSC09040.JPG


one of the rear brake lines rubbing one another so nudged it apart

DSC09039.JPG


test drive and now mostly silent:D only clunks a very tiny 1% of the time when slowly turning over uneven road (cos the bolt is rusted to the bush, the inner side of the bolt won't be able to shift and clamp the bush up against the chassis so it sits loose against the edge of the hole. the outer side of the bush clamps fine now with the greased nut) but I think thats most of the annoying knocks fixed :cool:
 
wanted to refine the turbo map cos fuel economy is lower than normal.

in the morning she cold cranks at 9afr @800rpm then slowing leans to 13afr @ 1200rpm.
thinking maybe still too much enrichment? so reduced the values between 10-40c.
on cold crank she now starts from 9.3afr but still not lean enough. winder how much fuels wasted in the first few secs

enrich1.jpg
enrich2.jpg


next I corrected the timing. didn't need to on this forged turbo map but at least its resolved.

ign1.jpg
ign2.jpg

next is during cruising when I go just slightly above 0psi it immediately richens to 12-13afr, would prefer to stick closed loop till above 1psi.
so altered some of the upper cells to be closed. now it stays 14.7afr till above 1psi. should help cruising economy slightly.

fuel1.jpg
fuel2.jpg

next thing I noticed is whenever I release the throttle below 1500rpm but above idle, she goes really rich 10-12afr. datascan showing the injectors are still injecting when the throttle is closed, even though they should be fuel cut. at idle the IAV opens for more air and she resumes normal 14.7afr.
lifting off above 1500rpm she cuts fuel as normal.

hmm so I need to find where I can edit the fuel cut menu..
 
looked at the nistune manual and program and think I found the fuel cut.

in the program under the "limit tables" there is a table called "Load Cut (TP)" and the graph is titled "Theoretical Pulsewidth Limit".
in the manual it says

Theoretical Pulsewidth Air/Fuel Injector Limter (RPM vs TP)
Called Air/Fuel limiter by ROM Editor, this value is actually a Theoretical Pulse width limiter. When the TP
value against a certain RPM in this table is reached, the injectors are cut. This table should be adjusted when an
cut has been reached after modification, but within certain limits, to still ensure safe engine operation. It is not
recommended to set this table to all maximum values.
Click to expand...

when comparing between the stock map and this turbo map, the load/fuel cutoff point is higher in the turbo.
wonder if thats like a forced load limiter to prevent overboosting?

fuel cut.jpg


but what I'm interested in is why the fuel is resumed prematurely during deceleration below bout 1700rpm before reaching idle?
the next table of interest is called "Max TPulse Width" and the graph is labelled "Total Theoretical PulseWidth (TP) Max"

Total Theoretical Pulsewidth (RPM vs ms)
When to recover and restart injection after reaching limits
Click to expand...

so after the fuel was cut, this determines at which load vs rpm the fuel resumes injection.
on both NA and turbo the graph is the same.

fuel resume.jpg


suppose when I close the throttle above 1700rpm, fuel is cut.
but when it goes below 1700rpm, the Load value has dropped below the "Resume Fuel" TTP trigger curve hence abit of fuel begins injecting according to the fuel map.
but although the fuel map with its long term trim tries to reach 14.7afr, there's definately not enough air from the closed throttle causing the mixture to go 9-12afr.

so my next test is to note what the Load value is during static idle rpm and then gradually reduce this TTP "Resume" curve under 1700rpm down to that idle value so that injection is only triggered to resume just as it reaches idle
 
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mine kicks in at about 1600rpm too paul, you need a buffer between fuel resume and idle i guess ?
or else just knock it into neutral and coast like me :)
does yours have a "diesel crack/pink" if you jab the throttle on a cold morning, for half a minute or so btw paul ?
and how about fitting a 2nd coolant sensor in parallel ?

 
frank said:
mine kicks in at about 1600rpm too paul, you need a buffer between fuel resume and idle i guess ?
or else just knock it into neutral and coast like me :)
does yours have a "diesel crack/pink" if you jab the throttle on a cold morning, for half a minute or so btw paul ?
and how about fitting a 2nd coolant sensor in parallel ?

Click to expand...


what an odd behavior. coasting in neutral is abit inconvenient when I'm in slow traffic.
tis either coast in neutral and lose engine braking, gets too close to car and end up braking,
or engine coast/brake in gear to maintain slow steady pace but end up burning/wasting fuel.

diesel pink?o_O the forged pistons would sound like a transit when stone cold.

and I'd rather resolve the specific enrichment graph completely than to mess bout with the sensor and affect the entire range tbh
 
the 2nd sensor cuts down the coldstart enrichment by about half tho paul, mine is closed looping as soon as the lambda is up to temp (within 1 mile) even in mid winter
and i think my pinking at startup is down to the idle control valve delete tbh :)
 
frank said:
the 2nd sensor cuts down the coldstart enrichment by about half tho paul, mine is closed looping as soon as the lambda is up to temp (within 1 mile) even in mid winter
and i think my pinking at startup is down to the idle control valve delete tbh :)
Click to expand...

yea as soon as my o2 heats up after a min of idling, it close loops. my issue is with the 9afr stone cold cranking from too much enrichment, then the injectors slowly lean out and it improves afr but actual temperature hasn't changed in those few secs. the IAV is definately not sticking.

think i could be due to the oily pistons cos if I stone cold crank and then hold throttle up to 1500rpm, she runs stuttery until the oily film is cleared out and then she burns cleanly n smoothes out.

warm or cool starts after work fire up fine.
 
well I've tried reducing the Total Theoretical Pulsewidth Max, Theoretical Pulsewidth Limit, and even the RPM Enrichment to zero and it still richens up below 1700rpm on overrun :confused:

noticed that above 1700rpm, if I reduce the throttle till the engine begins to decelerate but before the throttle is fully shut and triggers the "Closed TPS" switch, it richens up to 11-13afr.
if I trigger the Closed TPS above 1700rpm it'll cut fuel.
so I wonder if the symptom is caused by the closed TPS switch. disconnected the TPS and began overrun below 1700rpm but the results abit inconsistant.
lift off above 1700rpm, she runs very rich.
as it goes below 1700 the o2 probably correcting the rich mixture (since the injectors ON) by leaning out and it then overruns below 1700 at 14.7afr
when I apply throttle again, the over-corrected map then runs wayy too lean at 16afr, O2 again richens the mix to 14.7afr to correct it and cycle repeats.

need to read more into it cos nothing seems to affect this low rpm overrun issue
 
the maf reading looks fine n stable. I still think its a map/table graph which is causing this premature fuel recovery.
one thing I haven't tried yet is reconnect the speed sensor and see if the ecu needs it to help determine fuel cut/recovery. try tomorrow
 
hmm I think the k11 ecu address file has a very limited number of features that can be accessed compared to one from say a pulsar GTIR, and so the elusive fuel recovery table maybe hidden?

here's the list available for a k11 ecu

k11 control1.jpg


and here's the list for a RNN14 pulsar lol

pulsar control1.jpg
 
looking back at the last datalog video of the forged piston turbo setup back in june & august 2013 I can compare how she runs then and now.

2013 June 29th after bed-in
cold cranking: 17C with injectors spiking at 30ms, IAV at 75%, MAF at 0.90v, timing at 5deg
after cranking: begins rev at 900rpm, injectors at 10.3ms, IAV at 78%, MAF at 1.30v, timing at 23deg
few secs after crank: 1400rpm, injectors gradually dropping from 2.50ms as temp quickly builds, IAV at 73%, MAF at 1.36v, timing at 23deg
goes closed loop after 1:03s
warm idles: 80C, 860rpm, injectors 1.62ms, IAV 16%, MAF 0.96v, timing 6deg



2013 August 22nd leaner coldstart & hotter thermo
cold cranking: at 16C with injectors spiking at 18ms, IAV at 75%, MAF at 0.90v, timing at 5deg
after cranking: begins rev at 1200rpm, injectors at 5.4ms, IAV at 78%, MAF at 1.30v, timing at 23deg
few secs after crank: 1340rpm, injectors gradually dropping from 2.2ms as temp quickly builds, IAV at 65%, MAF at 1.30v, timing at 23deg
goes closed loop after 1:15s
warm idles: 92C, 850rpm, injectors 1.66ms, IAV 16%, MAF 0.96v, timing 6deg



2014 Feb 15th leaner coldstart
cold cranking: at 12C with injectors spiking at 14ms, IAV at 75%, MAF at 0.90v, timing at 5deg
after cranking: begins rev at 1200rpm, injectors at 4.7ms, IAV at 78%, MAF at 1.30v, timing at 24deg
few secs after crank: 1400rpm, injectors gradually dropping from 2.2ms as temp quickly builds, IAV at 73%, MAF at 1.33v, timing at 24deg
goes closed loop after 0:22s
warm idles: 92C, 850rpm, injectors 1.56ms, IAV 16%, MAF 0.92v, timing 8deg

This morning tried a leaner cold crank @0:00 but struggled to fire up.
richened the crank value slightly @ 0:30 but still slightly struggles.
so I reset the cranking enrichment all the way back to normal @0:55 and fires right up, so cold cranking really needs alot of fuel and nothing I can do bout the 9.0afr cold start.



tried running the same turbo map as back in 2013-09-22 and the rich overrun below 1700rpm still happens.



So I've learnt that by leaning out the injectors during cold cranking from 30ms to 14ms the AFR reaches closed loop abit faster.
and it seems the premature rich AFR from the injectors re-opening below 1700rpm have always happened so prob nothing I can do bout it
 
oh bloomin frig heck good lawd, I've had enough and making it plain clear that I will no longer be able to help azzy :rolleyes:

every single advice I've ever given plus from other members, he's shown little or no listening, observational, or common sense skills any more than a child and does the opposite random thing.

I'm usually a patient, helpful being but this has challenged my frustration and so in the words of the dragons, I'm out.

bid u fair well lad but that's it for me:cool:
class dismissed
 
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pollyp said:
oh bloomin frig heck good lawd, I've had enough and making it plain clear that I will no longer be able to help azzy :rolleyes:

every single advice I've ever given plus from other members, he's shown little or no listening, orservational, or common sense skills any more than a child and does the opposite random thing.

I'm usually a patient, helpful being but this has challenged my frustration and so in the words of the dragons, I'm out.

bid u fair well lad but that's it for me:cool:
class dismissed
Click to expand...
my help will be someone who has helped me, and am all done with my car only minor things to correct and am all done, silly questions have put many ppl off I know that Maybe coz am slow and don't remember things easy but am all good Polly thanks anyways


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Azzydot said:
I didn't blog Polly wrote that on his blog so everyone comments on it read again, and sorry am not gona blog or brag about my car till it's on dyno and got prove


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Click to expand...
Its his blog
He does what he wants

Your car doesn't belong or need talking about here
 

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