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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
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pollyp
Club Member
crap i'm stuck in a rut with this damn emissions issue.
i rang some mot centres and i can't tweak the car or be within the garage due to regs and that i could break the 2-3k machine and my 1993 car will need a cat test whatever its state.
i tried looking for a diy gas tester to save the hassle but the £80 gunson analyser is only 0.5% accurate and useless
when ed was tuning it, it smelled eggy on the first pull run. could it have wrecked the cat and so causing the mot emission machine to read 0.75 - 1% CO even though my wideband says 14.7afr?
should i then invest in ANOTHER £80 cat?
jeez this is a complete PITA
i should prob just revert back to stock exhaust cos that has more chances of passing without spending anymore :/
i rang some mot centres and i can't tweak the car or be within the garage due to regs and that i could break the 2-3k machine and my 1993 car will need a cat test whatever its state.
i tried looking for a diy gas tester to save the hassle but the £80 gunson analyser is only 0.5% accurate and useless
when ed was tuning it, it smelled eggy on the first pull run. could it have wrecked the cat and so causing the mot emission machine to read 0.75 - 1% CO even though my wideband says 14.7afr?
should i then invest in ANOTHER £80 cat?
jeez this is a complete PITA
i should prob just revert back to stock exhaust cos that has more chances of passing without spending anymore :/
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
its a shame you,re not closer pauli have a mani/cat/downpipe you,re welcome to borrow, and postage would be about £30 each way
i've got my old stock exhaust frank, cheers.
yeah a real inconvenience cos i'll need to swap the entire exhaust over, remove the IC & piping, get it through MOT, refit the turbo system all before castle combe on 3rd
That's interesting, how often to you re-calibrate your LC-1? 0.75-1% CO is signifying your AFR is somewhere around 14.1 to 14.2:1 assuming either is measuring accurately.
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
did it last month and before the remap. on the dyno when their afr probe in the tailpipe shows 14.7 my wideband would be bout 15afr, maybe the cat after the sensor affects the readings
martinb
Ex. Club Member
Noddie ran his like that for a while and made almost no boost , as far as I can remember it you hose clip the wastegate arm open it won't make any boost, not at what the mot will test it for
Where are you Paul I know a guy pm me
At what revs do they test emissions at? Surely you could bung them a drink?
Where are you Paul I know a guy pm me
At what revs do they test emissions at? Surely you could bung them a drink?
martinb
Ex. Club Member
Where the turbo downpipe meet the Exhuast is there a flange? Could you not use the stock exhaust and weld a flange to fit the turbo flange,?
Therefore keeping the stock second cat? I always though if it was a new cat they would pass ok?
Cant you wack the normal injectors in and normal ecu with normal Exhuast and it will pass?
Therefore keeping the stock second cat? I always though if it was a new cat they would pass ok?
Cant you wack the normal injectors in and normal ecu with normal Exhuast and it will pass?
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
if ya look at page 28 post 1362 the position of the cat on the turbo system was too far back and off angle (cos forgot to mention to welder) so the two systems won't fit
i ain't got much time, energy or money to mess about so gonna go for a route that'll guarantee it'll pass.
using just the 2nd cat on the old janspeed system or deactivated turbo, even if its fairly new, won't pass the MOT emissions easily
fri night to sat night will begin the swapping, going to flamingo land on sunday then book MOT next week, then refit turbo for castle combe
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
comparison of the prev turbo remap using low compression forged pistons against the current turbo remap using a stock engine
BLUE: new remap with stock engine
RED: prev remap with low comp pistons
hmm seems the stock engine has less torque & power (maybe the 15w40 oils too thick or the higher compressions limiting how much we can push?)
AFR been leaned out, maybe save abit of fuel
boost also peaks later at 4200rpm rather than 3900rpm
BLUE: new remap with stock engine
RED: prev remap with low comp pistons
hmm seems the stock engine has less torque & power (maybe the 15w40 oils too thick or the higher compressions limiting how much we can push?)
AFR been leaned out, maybe save abit of fuel
boost also peaks later at 4200rpm rather than 3900rpm
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pollyp
Club Member
anyone have a shell v-power card? i'm wondering how to get one cos the website says just pick one up from any shell garage but no shell garage has em, only the normal drivers card.
i read in a forum to just use the normal card and a month later they send u an upgraded v-power card?
i read in a forum to just use the normal card and a month later they send u an upgraded v-power card?
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
turbo n pipes r off, injectors swapped and stock manifold fitted but really ####ed that the adapter bung on the mani for the lambda is missing, why the f did i remove it grr mind playing memory tricks again.
i'm gonna have to ask sister to drive me to scrappy to grab another bung
i'm gonna have to ask sister to drive me to scrappy to grab another bung
frank
Club Member
sounds like someones had one too many :laugh:
baguete
Site Supporter
Same here mate, even with the turbo setup no finished yet, i will remove the whole turbo stuff, install another 1.3 engine (bought it a month ago and want to check if its ok), stock exhaust and everything... Only after i have all the parts for the next stage i will install all the turbo stuff and some handling mods too, i think that only on next year i will have the car ready for some fun.
Keep it going mate. (Y)
Keep it going mate. (Y)
Antony
Ex. Club Member
but they still have to find an exact match.. most testers dont use the matrix. but if you show them the matrix itself they have to do a non cat test.... or they arent following their own rules,..
the reg number comes up with an n/a micra.... not a turbo one.
my reg comes up with a mr2 2.0 gt..... not a 3.0 v6. so its tested as a non cat car as the database does not cater for the specifications of your engine..
it really is very simple..
if the tester is saying about the engine number simply point out that it is n/a on the system...... only a complete arse would continue with a cat test.
the reg number comes up with an n/a micra.... not a turbo one.
my reg comes up with a mr2 2.0 gt..... not a 3.0 v6. so its tested as a non cat car as the database does not cater for the specifications of your engine..
it really is very simple..
if the tester is saying about the engine number simply point out that it is n/a on the system...... only a complete arse would continue with a cat test.
Antony
Ex. Club Member
or an fd3 rx7..lol
OP
OP
pollyp
Club Member
almost had a serious crisis tonight that woulda affected my trip tomorrow and next few days.
right these are the £20 mani gaskets i got from dealers, just some crap graphite ones:wasntme:
got a 850mm alternator belt and still too long. remeasured the original and was 840mm. bahh so requested a 825mm belt. shop guy must b sick of me now:blush:
everything stock is back on
fitted janspeed system and as usual the cat back is soo misaligned its rubbing on the edge of the swaybar and rear bumper. had to lift mid-section fair bit so did this
uploaded stock map, started her and she takes few cranks to fire compared to just the first crank of the turbo/janspeed system.
hmm there's a slight knocking noise so got out n peeked round and saw a huge pool of oil on the floor YIIIIIIIIIKESSSSS!!
quickly shut her off and FFS i forgot to plug up the turbo oil feed :doh:
how f'ing stupid am Igrr went to garage to see if the plug is on me spare engine, oh fck its actually on me other forged engine which is at my cousins in WALES:doh: alot of swearing follows.
got no bolts of the same thread to plug it.
i have a trip to flamingo land tomorrow morning so if i can't find any solution i'm doomed n have to cancel. can't be insured to drive sisters or moms car cos insurance call centres r closed and won't open in time. enterprise hire r closed on weekends.
after alot more swearing i figured i'll just tap the turbo adapter bit n tighten a bolt at the end. started engine and just abit of oil still dripping out, garghh.
rummidge around garage to find some form of copper washer and i found this copper pipe support bracket, tightened the bolt through the bracket hole and it works(Y)
thank fck sake for that.
huge clean up job in the garage floor from oil. little tip: grabbed some flour from kitchen, sprinkled loads on oily floor, wipe with cloth and it dries the floor up
test drove her and there's no leaks but damn she's sluggish
right these are the £20 mani gaskets i got from dealers, just some crap graphite ones:wasntme:
got a 850mm alternator belt and still too long. remeasured the original and was 840mm. bahh so requested a 825mm belt. shop guy must b sick of me now:blush:
everything stock is back on
fitted janspeed system and as usual the cat back is soo misaligned its rubbing on the edge of the swaybar and rear bumper. had to lift mid-section fair bit so did this
uploaded stock map, started her and she takes few cranks to fire compared to just the first crank of the turbo/janspeed system.
hmm there's a slight knocking noise so got out n peeked round and saw a huge pool of oil on the floor YIIIIIIIIIKESSSSS!!
quickly shut her off and FFS i forgot to plug up the turbo oil feed :doh:
how f'ing stupid am Igrr went to garage to see if the plug is on me spare engine, oh fck its actually on me other forged engine which is at my cousins in WALES:doh: alot of swearing follows.
got no bolts of the same thread to plug it.
i have a trip to flamingo land tomorrow morning so if i can't find any solution i'm doomed n have to cancel. can't be insured to drive sisters or moms car cos insurance call centres r closed and won't open in time. enterprise hire r closed on weekends.
after alot more swearing i figured i'll just tap the turbo adapter bit n tighten a bolt at the end. started engine and just abit of oil still dripping out, garghh.
rummidge around garage to find some form of copper washer and i found this copper pipe support bracket, tightened the bolt through the bracket hole and it works(Y)
thank fck sake for that.
huge clean up job in the garage floor from oil. little tip: grabbed some flour from kitchen, sprinkled loads on oily floor, wipe with cloth and it dries the floor up
test drove her and there's no leaks but damn she's sluggish
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OP
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pollyp
Club Member
cars not leaking anymore but felt sluggish, have to rev to get any power and uses lotsa fuel.
went to flamingo land was fun but on the way back my alarm remote ran out of battery:doh:
remote won't open doors and turn alarm off so had to open doors manually, alarm goes off, unplug the battery to silence it.
no spare remote batteries nor any maplin nearby and is prob shut on sunday.
the remote uses a small 12v battery so tried hooking it up to the car battery and still won't deactivate the siren.
ended up unplugging the alarm module and driving home.
tday tried me spare alarm remote and still doesn't turn off. damn gonna have to buy a new alarm.
always wanted a cellular alarm that txts me rather than make a racket. anyone recommend a good un?
also checked timing on way to work and twas actually 10deg off, so corrected it and has alot more punch now
went to flamingo land was fun but on the way back my alarm remote ran out of battery:doh:
remote won't open doors and turn alarm off so had to open doors manually, alarm goes off, unplug the battery to silence it.
no spare remote batteries nor any maplin nearby and is prob shut on sunday.
the remote uses a small 12v battery so tried hooking it up to the car battery and still won't deactivate the siren.
ended up unplugging the alarm module and driving home.
tday tried me spare alarm remote and still doesn't turn off. damn gonna have to buy a new alarm.
always wanted a cellular alarm that txts me rather than make a racket. anyone recommend a good un?
also checked timing on way to work and twas actually 10deg off, so corrected it and has alot more punch now
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
this badly jigged janspeed system is banging like mad on the rear axle/swaybar.
found that the centre support had drooped down. i wanted a higher & stiffer support that'll move the back end away from the axle alittle so ditch the rubber hanger and made this outa a mitre saw blade
gives more clearance from the swaybar but rear axle still bangs against the pipe when going over some bumps and theres this induction-like gassy noise from the passenger well but thats prob cos of the solid mitre-saw exhaust hanger that's transmitting all the gas flow noise into the chassis
MOT booked for thurs, hopefully pass then swap back to turbo.
found that the centre support had drooped down. i wanted a higher & stiffer support that'll move the back end away from the axle alittle so ditch the rubber hanger and made this outa a mitre saw blade
gives more clearance from the swaybar but rear axle still bangs against the pipe when going over some bumps and theres this induction-like gassy noise from the passenger well but thats prob cos of the solid mitre-saw exhaust hanger that's transmitting all the gas flow noise into the chassis
MOT booked for thurs, hopefully pass then swap back to turbo.
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OP
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pollyp
Club Member
those metal mesh cats are a real pain to punch through. had to bash several small holes round the outside circle with my biggest flathead screwdriver to weaken the sides, then use a big crowbar to punch it through. didn't come out easy but had to use lota brute force to bang her through.
now just need to finish off the sides
now just need to finish off the sides
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OP
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pollyp
Club Member
damn MOTgrr
failed cos rear brake pipes excessively corroded:wasntme: another thing to do tonight
couple advisories:
*oil leak - that was friggin oil residue from when i forgot to plug up the oil feed
*steering wheel grip breaking away - as with every micra out there
*rear bonnet raised - duhh i know
*front & rear susp covered up - yeah i know, its to protect em from friggin muck!
*slight NSF wheel bearing play - caused by LSD, isn't serious
*right droplink foul exhaust - meh
*susp hard!? - yes its cos its a sports susp not a stock boat.
emissions no prob. 0.11% CO & 18ppm HC fast idle then 0.08% CO idle
gargh burn this POS
failed cos rear brake pipes excessively corroded:wasntme: another thing to do tonight
couple advisories:
*oil leak - that was friggin oil residue from when i forgot to plug up the oil feed
*steering wheel grip breaking away - as with every micra out there
*rear bonnet raised - duhh i know
*front & rear susp covered up - yeah i know, its to protect em from friggin muck!
*slight NSF wheel bearing play - caused by LSD, isn't serious
*right droplink foul exhaust - meh
*susp hard!? - yes its cos its a sports susp not a stock boat.
emissions no prob. 0.11% CO & 18ppm HC fast idle then 0.08% CO idle
gargh burn this POS
Lol at the advisories. Should have just said 'we advise you that you have a modified car' haha
OP
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pollyp
Club Member
got some new male ends but were slightly different
some filing on the drill fixed that
new pipes bent by fingers
god i hate doing brake lines. so messy i got brake fluid dripping all over floor and up down my arms n back, not good.
tested it and drives fine. this is the last straw and itd better pass
some filing on the drill fixed that
new pipes bent by fingers
god i hate doing brake lines. so messy i got brake fluid dripping all over floor and up down my arms n back, not good.
tested it and drives fine. this is the last straw and itd better pass
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OP
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pollyp
Club Member
urhh its soo hot i'm sweating buckets :blush:
took the cat off the stock exhaust and it must be runnin leaner relative to the turbo cos the inlets less carbonated
new wheel nuts. later found that the hex was 19mm and not the standard 21mm :doh: have to carry two wheel sockets then eh
turbo fitted. straightened as many rad fins as i could withstand. undersealed the crossmember
the new shorter 825mm alternator belt def fits better now
this is as much of the cat mesh as i'll bash out
fit new front coils
previously noticed the front left was higher than usual and found that the lower end had loosened and slowly unscrewed itself whenever i turned the wheel and increase the ride height, woops
even though the front preload is back to zero its 20mm higher than the rear. can't lower the spring collar cos the spring would unseat whenever the wheel droops so would have to raise the lower hub mount and sacrifice letting the wheel rub the arch whenever it reaches the bumpstops.
went for test drive and all is fine. downpipe rattling against the central engine beam so will sort out tomorrow. took down motorway, WOT in 3rd 10psi boost and gosh, with this decat its never accelerated upto 80 this fast before (or maybe its from driving the dulled down stock system for a week) :grinning:
took the cat off the stock exhaust and it must be runnin leaner relative to the turbo cos the inlets less carbonated
new wheel nuts. later found that the hex was 19mm and not the standard 21mm :doh: have to carry two wheel sockets then eh
turbo fitted. straightened as many rad fins as i could withstand. undersealed the crossmember
the new shorter 825mm alternator belt def fits better now
this is as much of the cat mesh as i'll bash out
fit new front coils
previously noticed the front left was higher than usual and found that the lower end had loosened and slowly unscrewed itself whenever i turned the wheel and increase the ride height, woops
even though the front preload is back to zero its 20mm higher than the rear. can't lower the spring collar cos the spring would unseat whenever the wheel droops so would have to raise the lower hub mount and sacrifice letting the wheel rub the arch whenever it reaches the bumpstops.
went for test drive and all is fine. downpipe rattling against the central engine beam so will sort out tomorrow. took down motorway, WOT in 3rd 10psi boost and gosh, with this decat its never accelerated upto 80 this fast before (or maybe its from driving the dulled down stock system for a week) :grinning:
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OP
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pollyp
Club Member
front height sorted
was soldering my infrared thermometer together this morning (was using the inside wiring to wire the alarm remote when it ran outa power last week) and managed to burn edge of my palm with the hot bit, ouch it stings:doh:
trimed off some of the windscreen rubber trim (and blade slipped n made a mess of the a- pillar:doh and i believe i found the cause of this annoying a-pillar rattle to be the RH wing rattlin against the pillar. slipped a tiny piece of plastic in and its silent:grinning:
cars all prepped n ready(Y)
oh and it seems the new wheel nuts are a tad less weighty cos the steering vibrates abit on motorway so for now i'll have to use the old nuts to balance it then order 4 more new nuts nxt week to balance it out but losing the locking nuts
was soldering my infrared thermometer together this morning (was using the inside wiring to wire the alarm remote when it ran outa power last week) and managed to burn edge of my palm with the hot bit, ouch it stings:doh:
trimed off some of the windscreen rubber trim (and blade slipped n made a mess of the a- pillar:doh
and i believe i found the cause of this annoying a-pillar rattle to be the RH wing rattlin against the pillar. slipped a tiny piece of plastic in and its silent:grinning:
cars all prepped n ready(Y)
oh and it seems the new wheel nuts are a tad less weighty cos the steering vibrates abit on motorway so for now i'll have to use the old nuts to balance it then order 4 more new nuts nxt week to balance it out but losing the locking nuts
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pollyp
Club Member
Lol i'll keep that in mind, not that i can fit a landrover in my garage And get out
I managed to get one I the back of my almera
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pollyp
Club Member
