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PollyMobiles Rebuild

swapped o2 sensor over and tis abit better. low rev high load is way too rich at 9afr. recorded the run and editing the clip
 




afterwards i took off the dizzy cap and the contacts were full of oxides. after wirebrushing, the afr was much better
 
ta

the rocker cover breathers been soaking for some time now so better sort out the oil catcher.
looking around for some piping with the correct sizes, once again this spare coolant return pipe is so versatile cos i could cut off this section and tis already a joint so saves me from any welding (Y)

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routed like this for now

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hook up the rest of the piping when i come to make the oil catch
 
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The breather on side of cam cover is pooing oil down the side of engine and i deffo know its that cos its saturated! And ot pools in the casting!
 
same here its only recent but i topped it up not long before it started so maybe it was a little too much and found a way out lol owell ill either make it so the filter points upward or maybe an oil catch can which ill probably get laughed at for doing it! lol

but i can imagine it being a pain to remove all the oil though!
 
without plumbing it into the inlet, the oil mist coming out the breather will gather and pool somewhere somehow

yeah emptying the oil catch would be inconvenient but i plan to plumb the drain down to the fitting at the back of the turbo sump someday when i can be bothered to take the sump off.

this weekend i'm gonna swap over the red engine cover
 
red cover fitted. ran out of PU sealant so only one the bottom side of the gasket is sealed

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not happy with how it runs tday. she idles round 14.7-16 but leans irratically during mid-high acceleration causing occasional misfire when it leans too much.

i have a feeling that both these o2 sensors are getting old
 
Inside a Narrow-band O2 Sensor

curious bout the old o2 sensor i cut off the cover to expose the ceramic core

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tried to dremel through but it was very hard. then i tried me hacksaw and instantly chipped of like porcelean

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can see the ceramic tip surrounding a central heating element core. the middle of the heater is a hole to let outside air into the chamber

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plugged in my 3rd spare o2 sensor and she still idles at 13-15, cruises at 11-12, medium accelerate at 15-16 and sudden wot at 12-15afr

all over the place. something is very wrongfwn
 
aye. after the roadtrip with octane booster and when i plumbed the rocker breather straight into the inlet the mixture goes all over.

hmm i'll unplug the rocker breather n see if that improves it
 
k somethings really wrong here.

it idles at 13afr
cruising 1st 2nd 3rd gear is 13afr
gentle acc in 1st 2nd 3rd is 16afr
WOT in 1st 2nd 3rd is 15afr low rev / 12afr high rev
cruising in 4th 5th gear is 15-16afr
gentle acc in 4th 5th is 16afr
WOT in 4th 5th is 12-13afr

also the boost is only peaking at 8psi after 3k for 1sec then drops to 7psi, maybe wastegate is too loose or part of the inlet pipings loose
 
Thats very erratic.
Probably telling you things you already know but have you got a crack in your inlet? or turbo?
 
not that i'm aware of.

fitted the new o2 sensor

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same irratic behavior. unplugging rocker breather has no effect. wtf is goin on?
logged readings on datascan and the o2 sensor at one point tries to do the regular up/down response on steady cruise but most the time it just reads mostly lean or mostly rich as though its open loop and injector duty doesn't wanna respond.

just cleaned the maf sensor, see if it helps tomorrow. but this nistune irratic afr issue starting to annoy me once again :doh:
 
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driving to work, it mainly goes 14.7 during steady cruise (can see the o2 pulse up/down and the injectors nudge slightly up/down too) and maybe idle but just a touch more on the throttle and it goes wayy lean. can only safety accelerate by going WOT. reving to 2-3k under no load such as for MOT, sensor just reads fully rich and injectors don't budge, so its open loop even though its within the o2 feedback region in nistune fuel map.
 
Ok good news. I found the boost leak was once again caused by the same section of IC piping thats blown loose. During light acc she was too lean so i increased the injector multiplier from 252 to 300, cleared self learn, and i believe its clearing itself up. Driving along, the mixtures are pretty close to the fuel map now. Tis only coming to a stop at idle that its too rich but then learns from the o2 reading and leans back up towards 14.7
still too rich at 3k rpm no-load
 
replaced the old plugs for shiny new ones

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then upon putting the old ones back in me toolbox, cos they still have the same gap, i found some spare new plugs from me dads prev nissans which are the same model..Doh!:doh:
 
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heres a video log after fixing the blown pipe n replaced o2



noticed the new 02 sensor warms up after 37sec from 29C compared to the old one at 52sec from 39C
 
cheers shaun(Y)

here's another after i fitted new plugs



the plugs look nice after the short run. see how it does in the long run

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comparing the o2 sensors from the last 3 vids the new sensor heats up & responds much faster prob cos the element isn't coated in years of carbon deposits

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Man I'm lost with all this afr stuff lol

Fair play for sticking at it, I'd been down to eds asking how to fix it

I'd like to do a proper boost leak check by blowing coloured smoke into the intercooler piping as it shows then up

Need a compressor though
 
Man I'm lost with all this afr stuff lol

Fair play for sticking at it, I'd been down to eds asking how to fix it

I'd like to do a proper boost leak check by blowing coloured smoke into the intercooler piping as it shows then up

Need a compressor though

yea bit of a guessing minefield with so many variable factors that affect it

good idea on checking the boost leak. maybe suggest using them stronger clips that use nut & bolt cos jubilee clips are not very tight for large pipes under high pressure.

just got me JAE tickets tday:grinning:
 
k i take off the white top section by dremelling 5mm off the lip

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remove the top off then wiggle n twisted the rusty motor out with adjustable pliers

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eek water definately got in from a poor seal

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disassemble the motor by bendin open the securing tabs and pull the cap apart to find this. noticed the contact brush was just a metal leg, yikes that doesn't look right

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so i disassembled my original washer motor (top) and that still has the graphite brush intact. so yeah the recent washer motor is totally stuffed

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wirebrushed the working motor

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regreased n assembled. smear of grease all over to repell moisture

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slotted in

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tested if the motor turned the correct way, if not i just turn the motor housing 180deg

then taped it all back together. works good as new(Y)

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gosh i just gave dad some training for castle combe on Rfactor with me PC steer wheel last night and tis the first time he's driven it. i'm shocked in his lack of driving line and overcorrecting the controls. i'm doubting if i should let him drive cos he's either gonna wreck the clutch n engine or fear he'll overcorrect mid-turn n spin n crash or go so slow he's gonna cause an incident.
 
Simulations are nothing like the real thing though..... If you're worried get him to practice up until you go and if youre still not sure dont let him
 
i know sims won't handle like the real thing but i'm using it to teach him the correct lines, braking points & speed cos don't fancy ploughing straight into the first hairpin barrier especially in a micra if he doesn't know the track.
i'm making him practice every night till i can see he's following the race lines and become smoother.
on the day i think i'll only let him go when i quietens down later in the afternoon and prob with an instructor
 
why does my car always develop a problem just prior to a trackday?fwn

ok tday i took out the RH mount where the bush has vibrated itself out abit

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so i pushed it back in with a vice

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refitted, right just check around the car and Ohh the abs sensor cable has slipped off loose, rubbing against the LH cv boot and made it split BAHh:doh:

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tis 12.30 and just had enough time to get a new cover from partco

drained gearbox before removing driveshaft and once again there's one or two pieces from some cog teeth, hope its just the reverse gear

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took brakes off and FFS i'm almost outa front padsgrr

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rang all over uk for any predator pads and most performance shops are closed on weekend, ones that are open don't have em in stock and would have to order em from black diamond for tuesday and i can't just pick em up from BD themselves.:down:

another option was to ring demontweaks what they have in stock and they have EBC red & yellow stuff. since i'll be using it em daily me cousin suggests Red stuff over the yellow cos it'll have abit more bite at lower temps during commuting and hardly faded when he tried em on a subaru n evos on the track and mine'll prob never reach that high temp cos the car's much lighter.

the last minute plan is to stay in a b&b near wrexham on sunday night, get to demontweaks by 8.30am when they open, buy & fit the red stuff, bed em in while driving down towards castle combe by 1pm

cv still greased up

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fit new boot

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all fine on test drive except the AFR is leaning out at high revs again, WHY!

spending all evening tweaking the multiplier & latency combo till my head hurts, still leans out.
so i unplugged the o2, clear self learn the afr goes 12-13, tweak till its roughly correct at low-med loads, plugged o2 in, but it occasionally goes 13-14 WOT at 6-7k rpm upto 3rd gear.
more refining tomorrow morning but this AFR is becoming a joke
 
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