PollyMobiles Rebuild

[pollyp]

cleaned impeller

the housing backface the compressor C-clip rests against is abit rough so gave it a wirebrushing

you see the two ports perpendicular to the oil feed/drain, does that mean this turbo can be watercooled?

wirebrushed the compressor housing till clean

cleaned the C-clip and filed the edges so it doesn't catch on anything

c-clip installed

cleaned the turbine housing. is this a garrett t2 turbine housing?

closeup of crack

i found the cheapest t2 housing is £150 on ebay. prob leave this for now, seems to be a common issue looking at other forums.

another tiny crack at the turbine housing vane

housing fitted

wastegate actuator cleaned n retapped

gtir elbow

thought i could remove the bolt on the elbow to fit the lambda but its proper seized on tight

overhauled turbo

 

[baguete]

More close than ever (Y)

You will use that modified stock manifold or a proper custom made? That manifold seems so smal...

 

[pollyp]

maybe. we'll see

doin all this cleaning, retapping overhauling is quite theraputic but tiring on my legs standing all night

a custom bent pipe turbo manifold would be nice but i'll keep the modified stock for now since its there and keeps the costs down.

reading in forums bout oil vs water cooled turbos, i'll just keep it the same oil cooled config for simplicity

once i move to turbo it'll mean i'll have to start using the higher octane v-power stuff yeah?

 

[Guy]

Unless you really lower the compression ratio alot, I'd deffo use higher octane with a turbo setup. looking awesome btw !

 

[pollyp]

Unless you really lower the compression ratio alot, I'd deffo use higher octane with a turbo setup. looking awesome btw !

noted(Y)

 

[pollyp]

fitted the spitfire HT leads this morning. no noticeable difference under normal driving

 

[r-reg-sr]

you have enterd dreamworld (i could only dream of the stuff you (and others)do)

 

[pollyp]

just have the right balance of motivation, vision, resources, knowledge and opportunity to make this dream possible

now why didn't i take the blue pill

still some way to go but all the hard expensive part of the turbo conversion is already done for me. just need to strip, clean, overhaul the existing bits, buy some extra minor bits, mod the cat into the exhaust fit it all into pollymobile and we're done.

 

[r-reg-sr]

[QUOTE
now why didn't i take the blue pill [/QUOTE]
oh shyte blue one? i took both and now i know i wasnt sposed too!
burn em out kid------gotta say by the looks of it your efforts an all,you deserve this "step up" thing

 

[djtweaker]

you are very hard working just like me the laste time
nice job again

 

[pollyp]

oh shyte blue one? i took both and now i know i wasnt sposed too!
burn em out kid------gotta say by the looks of it your efforts an all,you deserve this "step up" thing

hmm wonder what'd happen if neo had taken em both. maybe that's why he ended up at that subway station in matrix revolution between real & virtual world?

what step up?

 

[pollyp]

you are very hard working just like me the laste time
nice job again

cheers.

things were previously pretty calm with work, car, home playing on ps3, up till i got this turbo oppurtunity and now i'm on full afterburn motivated by passion to complete this project

tis hard work coming home and can't wait to work on it but tires me out when i finish at midnight exhausted although its satisfying watching it progress. not gonna push myself cos there's no deadline anymore, just gradually work on getting things ready at my own pace till i feel its time.

 

[baguete]

hmm wonder what'd happen if neo had taken em both. maybe that's why he ended up at that subway station in matrix revolution between real & virtual world?

what step up?

I thinks its the increase in HP... :laugh:

 

[pollyp]

managed to get the bolt out the gtir elbow with some penetrating spray, blowtorch around the bolt and brute force withbreaker bar

retapped, the bolt sticks out too far to get coated with carbon n seize again so grinded it flat

cleaned n neatened the turbo drain plug adapter

wirebrushed the drain hose

wirebrished the oil feed

turbo sorted

ready for storage

cleaned all induction pipes n boxed. my spare parts shelf is getting full

to store the injectors i wanted to fit em onto the manifold then store to keep dust out of em so first remove the coolant return pipe

manifold out

fit injectors n stored

took gtir MAF apart, front plate was siliconed on

another screw that tried putting up a fight

maf sensor off, wirebrush the body

clean n assembled

took oil filter out, the oil is black, lack of service

cover off. kinda dry beneath but looks intact. alota crusty carbon coating inside the engine. could do with baguettes oven cleaner trick

 

[pollyp]

I thinks its the increase in HP... :laugh:

ah totally missed that point:laugh:

 

[baguete]

Looks nasty inside, clean it all like i did, helps the engine to work better right away... (Y)

 

[pollyp]

Looks nasty inside, clean it all like i did, helps the engine to work better right away... (Y)

yep that's why i'm taking it apart. oil has like dried caked into the inside so musta been in storage for awhile

 

[baguete]

yep that's why i'm taking it apart. oil has like dried caked into the inside so musta been in storage for awhile

And the oil used to get very hot also...

 

[r-reg-sr]

"set up" the turbo one
with this you'll be in "the majestic micra core"

 

[pollyp]

just noticed summin interesting bout the IAV

with the clutch engaged, whenever ur travelling above 5mph and in gear, the ecu keeps the IAV open so it idles at 1300rpm

if either ur speed drops below 5mph or you pop into neutral, then the IAV closes and idles back down to 700rpm

 

[mckenziecz]

two weeks on hols and i missed a lot. shame there is standard manifold with flange on it. it must be so restrictive. custom made would show some more bhp.

 

[frank]

just noticed summin interesting bout the IAV

with the clutch engaged, whenever ur travelling above 5mph and in gear, the ecu keeps the IAV open so it idles at 1300rpm


if either ur speed drops below 5mph or you pop into neutral, then the IAV closes and idles back down to 700rpm

the neutral switch and speed sensor are fitted for a purpose eh paul (probably emissions eh ?)

 

[pollyp]

two weeks on hols and i missed a lot. shame there is standard manifold with flange on it. it must be so restrictive. custom made would show some more bhp.

yea its not ideal but the exit port of the stock manifold is no smaller than the entry port of the turbine housing so its not too bad

 

[pollyp]

the neutral switch and speed sensor are fitted for a purpose eh paul (probably emissions eh ?)

i'm guessing the iav opens the throttle abit in those situations in order to ensure the engine can run at idle rpm whilst overcoming the slight additional load of being in gear and driving the wheels such as during slow traffic jams. without the extra throttle opening via IAV the additional driving load under closed throttle would simply lower the rpm below 700rpm and more likely to stall

 

[pollyp]

cos i don't have an engine mount, i drained the oil like this

alternator bracket off

turbo oil feed adapter off

non-PAS auxilery belt tensioner off

waterpump off found this. but its just surface rust after wiping

access panel off. i tested cillit bang on the gunked access panel and it does nothing, may as well be plain water. instead i tried some persil detergent n boiling water and after some brush scrubbing its squeaky clean

before removing the cams i checked the valve clearances and wow they are as perfect as i can imagine:
min inlet gap= 0.25 min exhaust gap= 0.33
max inlet gap=0.35 max exhaust gap= 0.40

inlet 1: 0.279 exhaust 1: 0.356
inlet 2: 0.279 exhaust 2: 0.356
inlet 3: 0.305 exhaust 3: 0.356
inlet 4: 0.305 exhaust 4: 0.356
inlet 5: 0.356 exhaust 5: 0.356
inlet 6: 0.305 exhaust 6: 0.356
inlet 7: 0.305 exhaust 7: 0.356
inlet 8: 0.330 exhaust 8: 0.356

so i guess this engines condition has really done 30k as stated in ebay

cams off. looks perfect just needs cleaning

headbolts out

head off

perfect

looks gr8, no HG damage

sump off. maybe too much silicone sealant used

cranks fine

knocked the dipstick tube out

 

[frank]

i use autosmart,s G101 paul http://www.autosmart.co.uk/Exterior Cleaners.html (from work :wasntme non acid and non caustic, you may remember a smokey cga i had last year ?
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=17002&stc=1&d=1284675342
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=17003&stc=1&d=1284675342

 

[pollyp]

were do i get g101, direct from em?

read on google that afew ppl use washing powder like daz or persil in a hot tub to clean their blocks before rebuilds. these detergents wont harm the cylinder walls or bearing surfaces right?

 

[frank]

dunno paul, and i think they only do a gallon can @ about £20, and i use washing powder to clean my hands sometimes (its good stuff eh :grinning: )
btw some interesting pinout pdf,s http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/ecm-ecu-tuning/282833-ecu-pinout-diagrams.html
that describe the signals and functions too (rev 0.2 is our type, and rev 0.6 the eobd2 post 2000 type i believe)

 

[pollyp]

well i def won't be doin that much cleaning to warrant needing a gallon cans worth lol

washing powder it is. yea good hand cleaner, tried it at Sulurs when i helped with his engine, ain't half stings if you knocked ur knuckles or cuticles

ooh thanks so much for the link frank, really useful and interesting(Y)

here's some loom wiring diagrams for nats & non-nats system that may be of interest

 

[pollyp]

currently debating wether to get a gripper lsd since i'll be overhauling this spare box but is quite expensive. so are my only options regards to LSD either to buy n fit a gripper lsd from matt and trying to find a rare rs5f31v box or are there other lsd boxes that could fit?

if i go with an lsd it'll probably be done during the turbo fitting stage where the entire engine/box/turbo/exh/etc will be swapped over in one whole go, saves time effort & money

 

[pollyp]

had to take the crank pulley off so i put on the flywheel and jam it to the block with a bolt

dont have a pulley puller so made my own

timing chain cover off

timing chain out

remove the oil pressure sensor adapter plug

crank seal off

crankshaft cage removed, main bearings looks good

crankshaft off, bearings good

standard pistons out

finish removing bearing shells & crankcase vent filter off the block

i popped some bits in a hot tub of persil. after 2 washes they look new washing powder is magic

only one bolt has appeared seized since this overhaul. the head was already broken off leaving abit of stud but was hard to shift so grinded it flat and gonna drill it out

removed oil galley plug

tomorrow will swap the stock manifold onto the car for mot and then its bath time for the engine

 

[baguete]

I didnt removed the oil gallery plug, but with all the oven cleaner inside, the water gone throught the oil gallerys and was clear, then dryed it all with an air compressor. That enine looks very dirty inside, but it will shine again... (Y)

 

[pollyp]

found this large steel tub, little rusty but gave a good scrub

lined a rubber mat to prevent scratching the HG face

5 buckets of water and 2 scoops of persil bio. hard scrubbing begins

block came out nice indeed, missed abit of the outside

grimey oily water

the rubber mat kept floating up when i was moving the block so i used a cloth instead

many scrubbing later the block is shiney, but worryingly i found these massive matt drop-like spots on the cylinder walls i can still see the honing marks and the surface is smooth but those drip spots are just matt.
i dunno if its the persil bio thats etched some layer or if its been there before, doesn't look good either way. any advice?

crankcase washed

retapped all holes

crankcase filter installed

to sort this seized bolt on the block i marked, drilled and retapped

now i'm retapping the headbolt threads in the block, all are fine except for one. felt the tap was getting tighter, which isn't normal. so i tried the tapered tap (normally used to start the threads) and it felt smooth n sharp and feel it slightly cutting. ok so my other non-tapered tap must be worn. another issue is that the tap can only reach half the threads, so the bolt can only go down halfway before getting stuck on the other half of the dirty threads.

i either buy a new longer M8 tap or maybe need to take it down to machiners to retap that hole cos i feel i may mess it up or its cross threaded

right, overall this block has some odd cylinder wall spots and one of the headbolt holes needs retapping, it may become weakened. i'm not feeling too confident with it mechanically at the mo even though it took loadsa elbow grease to get it all shiney n clean.

gut feeling tells me to use the block (and head?) in the current car instead.

actually maybe i should just keep the current engine & gearbox intact on the car (since its prob in better form and both are similar) and simply bolt the new turbo bits & sump onto it?

whats ur thought?

 

[frank]

you worry too much paul if the headbolts came out ok they,ll go back ok, (i always dip mine in oil, to get max torque) and those stains wont be a problem fwn

 

[pollyp]

i just prefer things to be perfect to reduce chances of mechanical failure, especially with this much power now.

ok after much thinking, i've decided to keep the existing engine & gearbox left untouched on the car and simply bolt the new turbo stuff into it. will be cheaper and faster.

but first i had to figure how to remove the rusted oil feed plug on the head that i previously left cos of fear the tiny allen key'll round off.

i stuck on an allen socket and gradually applied torque but experience tells me this plug's not gonna budge with such tiny weak allen head and will round up, so i tried it again with some mole grips on the side, same thing.

so now i tried my bolt extracter tool since it cuts into and grips onto the outside of the exposed plug and walla it releases

ok with that verified, that's the plan then

 

[baguete]

I didnt even retapped the threads, i just got the oven cleaner inside, cleaned with water pressure and then dry it with an air compressor (takes a while to get it dry). And some oil on the head bolts threads should be enough.

 

[pollyp]

that particular bolt was abit stiff during removal coupled with signs of little rust on threads, hence retapping it.

gonna swock stock manifold over tday

 

[pollyp]

janspeed manifold off

janspeeds tiny 1.65" pipes vs custom 2.25" turbo downpipe

turbo mani vs stock mani

while manifolds off i may as well test fit the turbo and theres 3 issues already

first the turbo inlet is blocked by the radiator fan. second the turbo outlet is again block by the edge of the radiator

and third is this, cant be helpin with flow

so i have couple of choices, of which are not cheap

1: keep current turbo exhaust but buy a smaller radiator with smaller fan and welded into new location which may compromise cooling efficiency
1b: cut a section off the radiator to barely clear the turbo outlet port and fit smaller fan
1c: move the lower rad support over abit by 1cm just enough to clear the turbo and bend a new top support (prob the easiest cheapest option)

2: get someone to fabricate a new turbo manifold and modify the downpipe to relocate & reorientate the turbo
2b: buy a cast hks turbo manifold and ask someone to modify the downpipe
2c: get a mig welder, learn how to weld proper and make my own (may take awhile)

what would be the most cost effective choice?

stock manifold ready for mot

 

[pollyp]

i think i'll try option 1c first. theres a 15mm gap between the rad and front panel so i'll take off the lower rad support, pop rivet it to the right, bend a new upper support bracket ( maybe cut & rivet the latch bracket onto it as well) and so check things runs ok before investing in an expensive custom exhaust job.

another issue i spotted is how to feed a filter into the turbo cos there's abso no space with the rad fan & coolant pipes in the way. dan mentioned kristian may have tried stretching some tights over the turbo but sounds like a bad idea

 

[frank]

i would personally make a new (alloy or stainless) slam panel paul, and bring the top of the rad forward an inch or two, and then fit a hose and cone filter :grinning:

 

[martinb]

Wanna sell the janspeed?

 

[pollyp]

Wanna sell the janspeed?

possibly. i'll see how the turbo setup performs when i fit it and then figure if i'll need the janspeed.

 

[pollyp]

i would personally make a new (alloy or stainless) slam panel paul, and bring the top of the rad forward an inch or two, and then fit a hose and cone filter :grinning:

yep will be making new slam panel and move rad across but dunno if i could tilt the rad top forward abit cos the intercooler'll be in front and dunno if a hose & cone filter'll fit cos of the hoses n battery, although i may consider moving the battery to the boot which may free up space for the cone filter

 

[pollyp]

rang local machine shop bout fixing me headbolt thread and he says the threads on alloy blocks are prob treated and if the threads are breaking abit it'll prob need helicoiling and says £45, forget that!

rang cromwell tool shop for an m10x0.5 long shank second tap and so got this beauty for £21, vs the old shorter worn tap

washed the pistons nice n clean

fitted piston 1

and some bits

MOT tomorrow at 8:30

 

[baguete]

Looks cleaner than my pistons (Y)

You will re-use the crank/rod bearings? I re-used them, they looked ok...

 

[pollyp]

Looks cleaner than my pistons (Y)

You will re-use the crank/rod bearings? I re-used them, they looked ok...

def reuse em, looked fine.

thats just one piston and took couple hour to soak n scrub, twas about as much as i could take for the night.

after soaking, the scrubber couldn't get off some bits of black carbon on the piston but i could just scrape it off with my nails and then clean with wd40/scorch pad. the dark conrod and underneath the piston is real tricky to scrub clean so just left it

 

[pollyp]

car passed MOT with flying colours:grinning:
first time my micra's ever pass straight through without any issue

CO reading was 0.13% at fast idle and 0.07% at idle

back home i swapped the nistune boards over to grab the turbo map and here's the results

Fuel Maps (stock/janspeed setup/turbo setup)

Fuel Map Graphs (stock/janspeed setup/turbo setup)

Ign Maps (stock/janspeed setup/turbo setup)

Ign Map Graphs (stock/janspeed setup/turbo setup)

VE Maps (stock/janspeed setup/turbo setup)

VE Map Graphs (stock/janspeed setup/turbo setup)

 

[baguete]

Thanks for sharing that info (Y)

 

[r-reg-sr]

congrats on the years ticket
amazing work
thanks

 

[pollyp]

cleaned & fitted the remaining pistons

left the crank in a tub of hot persil to soak and look what happened looked like the detergent powder just builds on the top surface and etches it slightly so its def not recommended for polished bearing surfaces

install crank

and timing chain