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PollyMobiles Rebuild
- Thread starter pollyp
- Start date
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pollyp
Club Member
i'm wearing vinyl groves here, brought pack of 100 for fiver, so no dirty hands or cut fingers. though when i tried wash powder at sulurs with couple of scuffed knuckles n fingers it stings like heck:doh:
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pollyp
Club Member
hey does anyone know if PTFE sheet of 5mm thick will be ok to withstand the temps between the engine block & inlet manifold?
i was thinking of buying a sheet of 5mm ptfe and make an insulating spacer gasket for the inlet manifold to reduce inlet temps.
wiki says ptfe melts at 327C but dunno if the block will reach that and melt it under heat soak
or maybe use rubber sheet?
i was thinking of buying a sheet of 5mm ptfe and make an insulating spacer gasket for the inlet manifold to reduce inlet temps.
wiki says ptfe melts at 327C but dunno if the block will reach that and melt it under heat soak
or maybe use rubber sheet?
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pollyp
Club Member
the stock inlet gasket is like card aint it? ok think i'll stack afew of em to insulate the manifold
frank
Club Member
yeh, cardboard type stuff eh, and i have a thermal blanket too (there,s a fair amount of heat that radiates up from the back of the block/sump and metal waterpipe )
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=17197&stc=1&d=1285337661
Attachments
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pollyp
Club Member
head bolted up. will need to install new HG when the engines needed.
cams on
oil pickup on
fitted the turbo drain plug
blank off the un-used port at back with nut & bolt
wirebrushed the dizzy mount top bracket
engines pretty much complete, moved out the way and move on to the gearbox
remove endplate & washers
reverse gear switch
alot of metal bits on the plug suggests there's been quite abit of gear crunching
casing unbolted
bash from around the edges of the casing to free it from the locating dowels & sealant then lift the case up. something inside prevented the case from being lifted straight up but finally managed by lifting and tilting the case
this is what was catching. the upper shaft support on the casing for the reverse gear cog catches on the Topgear selector fork therefore ya tilt the casing to clear the fork
pull out the long shaft that all the selector forks pivot on then remove the topgear fork
3-4th fork and 1-2nd fork
heres the selector shaft. notice the ball & spring at the end of the shaft on the left, this is what holds the selector in gear
pull out the reverse gear shaft & cog to access the retaining bracket
unbolt the retaining bracket
then lift out both gears
followed by the differential
empty gearbox. need to figure how to remove the selector arm and clutch arm from the case. seems to be held on by spring pins
heres the neutral switch which seems to have been snapped off
cams on
oil pickup on
fitted the turbo drain plug
blank off the un-used port at back with nut & bolt
wirebrushed the dizzy mount top bracket
engines pretty much complete, moved out the way and move on to the gearbox
remove endplate & washers
reverse gear switch
alot of metal bits on the plug suggests there's been quite abit of gear crunching
casing unbolted
bash from around the edges of the casing to free it from the locating dowels & sealant then lift the case up. something inside prevented the case from being lifted straight up but finally managed by lifting and tilting the case
this is what was catching. the upper shaft support on the casing for the reverse gear cog catches on the Topgear selector fork therefore ya tilt the casing to clear the fork
pull out the long shaft that all the selector forks pivot on then remove the topgear fork
3-4th fork and 1-2nd fork
heres the selector shaft. notice the ball & spring at the end of the shaft on the left, this is what holds the selector in gear
pull out the reverse gear shaft & cog to access the retaining bracket
unbolt the retaining bracket
then lift out both gears
followed by the differential
empty gearbox. need to figure how to remove the selector arm and clutch arm from the case. seems to be held on by spring pins
heres the neutral switch which seems to have been snapped off
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pollyp
Club Member
the previous block of wood above the silencer fell out so the exhaust was banging about. so sawed afew more wood and ziptied em to the box. the rubber hangers were also abit tired so afew more zipties. the box is now rigidly fixed to the chassis, no more banging around.
the clutch fork and gear selector seems to be secured by 2 roll pins inside one another so i grab some nails of similar size, cut & file the tip flat then gradually hammer the pin through
selector rod seperated
clutch fork off
heres the dirty empty case
the 5th/reverse return spring housing needed a good twist & bash to loosen off
clean n inspect the gears
primary input shaft
secondary shaft
1st gear
2nd gear
3rd gear
4th gear
top gear
case all washed n wiped down
Mmmm
clean & install the 5th/reverse return spring
the clutch fork and gear selector seems to be secured by 2 roll pins inside one another so i grab some nails of similar size, cut & file the tip flat then gradually hammer the pin through
selector rod seperated
clutch fork off
heres the dirty empty case
the 5th/reverse return spring housing needed a good twist & bash to loosen off
clean n inspect the gears
primary input shaft
secondary shaft
1st gear
2nd gear
3rd gear
4th gear
top gear
case all washed n wiped down
Mmmm
clean & install the 5th/reverse return spring
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pollyp
Club Member
will do, cheers gazza
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pollyp
Club Member
wirebrushed selector arm
clutch arm
and clutch fork
fit selector arm to shaft
selector reinstalled
fit diff & gears
heres the selector mechanism
selector fork
fitted selector mechanism & 1st fork
reverse cog
2nd & 3rd selector forks
cleaned the other casing
apply sealant
bolted up
clutch fork installed
sealed & stored
clutch arm
and clutch fork
fit selector arm to shaft
selector reinstalled
fit diff & gears
heres the selector mechanism
selector fork
fitted selector mechanism & 1st fork
reverse cog
2nd & 3rd selector forks
cleaned the other casing
apply sealant
bolted up
clutch fork installed
sealed & stored
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pollyp
Club Member
took apart the thermostat housing, tis abit gunged up but seems fine once wiped. won't be needing the housing as one of the hose outlets is chipped but the stock thermostat is a keeper
wirebrushed the alternator belt tensioner
brushed the coolant return pipe
couple bits wont be needing and put in buy&sell
alternator with plug type connector rather than hook end connectors on mine. but dunno if one of the plug terminal pins broken off or if its suppose to be like that? (ie. the bolt-on connector bit is -ve ground while the one-pin terminal plug is +ve) or is it broke and bin it?
wirebrushed the exhaust
disassembled the janspeed manifold. prob sell it once turbo is on
taking the dizzy apart. cap islittle cracked n seized screws snapped off
rotor off
remove hall sensor disc
hall sensor unit
tried taking it apart inside but seems the circuit & connectors were internally wired together and so pry it apart wrecked it, meh
inductor coils
remove bearing from shaft
i think thats almost everything cleaned. now to research into gauges, bov/recirc valves, boost control
wirebrushed the alternator belt tensioner
brushed the coolant return pipe
couple bits wont be needing and put in buy&sell
alternator with plug type connector rather than hook end connectors on mine. but dunno if one of the plug terminal pins broken off or if its suppose to be like that? (ie. the bolt-on connector bit is -ve ground while the one-pin terminal plug is +ve) or is it broke and bin it?
wirebrushed the exhaust
disassembled the janspeed manifold. prob sell it once turbo is on
taking the dizzy apart. cap islittle cracked n seized screws snapped off
rotor off
remove hall sensor disc
hall sensor unit
tried taking it apart inside but seems the circuit & connectors were internally wired together and so pry it apart wrecked it, meh
inductor coils
remove bearing from shaft
i think thats almost everything cleaned. now to research into gauges, bov/recirc valves, boost control
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pollyp
Club Member
to clean urs? i've almost had enough of scrubbing & rebuilding the engine & gearbox, lotsa labour
yeah the rubbers are abit tired n soft n need replacing with stuffer hangers
Shaun
***StaGGeRed***
Yay! lol
them from the post 2 pages back
http://www.bc-racing.co.uk/search/?pfind=Nissan\MARCH\1998&search.x=44&search.y=15&search=search
http://www.bc-racing.co.uk/search/?pfind=Nissan\MARCH\1998&search.x=44&search.y=15&search=search
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pollyp
Club Member
just comparing rear engine mounts, heres the rear mount from the 1.3 turbo'd engine, which is the same as the blue micras original mount
and heres one i grabbed from scrappy during the grey/blue micra rebuild which didn't fit, twas the same as the grey micras original mount that pushed the engine too far forward
there's a clear 10-20mm height difference. both of the rubber inserts are the same number and design, its just the metal mount thats changed.
thinking bout it, the scrapyard rubber mount and the mount bracket that didn't fit correctly (ie still pushed the engine too far forward) was prob from a 1L and i didn't know back then cos i was just checking the rubber insert numbers and thought oh, same number as the correct fitting blue micras mount so they must be the same. apparantly not
i feel my current engine mounts shifting abit when on/off power at low revs, not good for solid janspeed manifold, so wash cleaned the spare turbo engines rear mount
taped one end
and carefully filled with PU sealant
says it cures from humidity. plonked it on top of combi boiler for next few days
and heres one i grabbed from scrappy during the grey/blue micra rebuild which didn't fit, twas the same as the grey micras original mount that pushed the engine too far forward
there's a clear 10-20mm height difference. both of the rubber inserts are the same number and design, its just the metal mount thats changed.
thinking bout it, the scrapyard rubber mount and the mount bracket that didn't fit correctly (ie still pushed the engine too far forward) was prob from a 1L and i didn't know back then cos i was just checking the rubber insert numbers and thought oh, same number as the correct fitting blue micras mount so they must be the same. apparantly not
i feel my current engine mounts shifting abit when on/off power at low revs, not good for solid janspeed manifold, so wash cleaned the spare turbo engines rear mount
taped one end
and carefully filled with PU sealant
says it cures from humidity. plonked it on top of combi boiler for next few days
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pollyp
Club Member
was changing my parents pug 307 discs n pads as they're running thin. what a ball ache of a car to work on :doh: they don't use any usual size bolts or torx heads so had to go buy so new ones and the rear caliper piston doesn't twist n retract easily with some nose pliers like on mine, it just keeps spinninggrr gonna have to go buy a £50 caliper piston rewind tool tomorrow just for this car, if theres any shop that has any and is open. damn french cars
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pollyp
Club Member
had to 20miles to halfords in durham this morning to get this £32 caliper rewind tool. twas ####ing down like mad all day which doesn't make it comfy getting wet in garage.
tis a handy tool but didn't work first time cos the plate that braces against the inner side of the caliper was too wide n flat n touching the edges of the caliper therefore the tools axis is offset to the caliper piston and jamming every so often.
so i angle grinded the thing to remove some of the corner edge till it all fits into the caliper cavity and with both axis aligned it works abit better.
both rear disc n pads replaced. taking the front left disc off, why did they use such small torx screw to hold the disc to the hub, which is bound to seize and round off the head, even after some blow torching n soaking in oil. so had to drill the screw out. sorted the front brakes and by chance in my box of screws n bolts i found a pair of countersunk metric flat head screws that match the damaged torx screws:grinning: pays off to keep all ur nuts bolts screws etc in boxes
so brakes replaced, took it out country to bed in during the rain. stock brakes warm up quick but then during bedding they easily overheat n go squishy. cooled down on motorway and feels normal now but may bleed the fluid again to be sure.
mom gave me another £30 on top of covering parts/tools cost for labour, neat
tis a handy tool but didn't work first time cos the plate that braces against the inner side of the caliper was too wide n flat n touching the edges of the caliper therefore the tools axis is offset to the caliper piston and jamming every so often.
so i angle grinded the thing to remove some of the corner edge till it all fits into the caliper cavity and with both axis aligned it works abit better.
both rear disc n pads replaced. taking the front left disc off, why did they use such small torx screw to hold the disc to the hub, which is bound to seize and round off the head, even after some blow torching n soaking in oil. so had to drill the screw out. sorted the front brakes and by chance in my box of screws n bolts i found a pair of countersunk metric flat head screws that match the damaged torx screws:grinning: pays off to keep all ur nuts bolts screws etc in boxes
so brakes replaced, took it out country to bed in during the rain. stock brakes warm up quick but then during bedding they easily overheat n go squishy. cooled down on motorway and feels normal now but may bleed the fluid again to be sure.
mom gave me another £30 on top of covering parts/tools cost for labour, neat
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pollyp
Club Member
BC coilovers still hasn't arrived ffs. rang the guy and he says he's waiting on the next shipment to arrive from BC which has been delayed but estimates he'll get it by mon and deliver to me by tues thats what he said last time i enquired bout it before ordering.
it'll be over a week since i ordered and his ebay list says est 2-3 days plus his stated springrates is wrong. do i point this out to ebay or just leave it?
thats what he said last time i enquired bout it before ordering.it'll be over a week since i ordered and his ebay list says est 2-3 days plus his stated springrates is wrong. do i point this out to ebay or just leave it?
Did you point this out to him and he still didn't fix it? If so, yeah, and if not, I'd point it out to him in a "by the way" message now and if it's not fixed by Tuesday and the gear hasn't arrived follow it (or both issues) up with eBay.
He could be a dodgy manipulator or just lazy/forgetful :laugh:
mate, dont leave it. this is something i hate. why do they sell some stuff without having it? specially on ebay. report that ####### and get them from somewhere else.(Y)
edit: http://www.h-dev.co.uk/index.php?cPath=78_169_297_1036&osCsid=98e8fc6fc6b9dd92b8d68f0811c9914f
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pollyp
Club Member
it seems as though he sends order to BC on a weekly batch basis. why the heck would he state 2-3days if he only orders his stock per week? will call em on mon afternoon to check he definately received stock and dispatched my order. if not, its a notice to ebay for mis-description & poor service.
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pollyp
Club Member
took out the old rear mount n beam
no wonder the gearstick moves abit at low speed, the rear mount is almost wasted
change to the janspeed manifold while i'm there
good to feel the top end power again. the gear stick movement at low speed on/off throttle has def reduced now
went to scrapyard to get a recirc valve found from saab 900 and micra aircon alternator bracket
no wonder the gearstick moves abit at low speed, the rear mount is almost wasted
change to the janspeed manifold while i'm there
good to feel the top end power again. the gear stick movement at low speed on/off throttle has def reduced now
went to scrapyard to get a recirc valve found from saab 900 and micra aircon alternator bracket
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