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Kristian's WideArch SR20DE(T) K11 BLOG

Sorry I do not understand what you are saying Kristian? I thought we were in coversation here? Was I mistaken? I only want what is best for the project, you need to lighten up, you seem alittle hot headed. Lets converse... as adults do.
 
Kristian, i think that you are alittle sore. Considering that the word "OPINIONS" is the subject of this discussion.
 
hope it goes all well mate, so you are stripping the 2.0 of power steering eh? you might want it after you get that 2.0 lump hanging over the front wheels lol,

cant wait to see this all finnished :) good work mate,
 
One problem with one mount which will be sorted soon... but it IS in...

wiring next..

dscn3625pm4.jpg

dscn3627ef1.jpg
 
We got most of the engine bay wiring sorted out today. Everythings coupled up in the engine bay, apart from the clutch cable which we are swapping over next weekend.

We've also got the rest of the Primera loom which is for the internal clocks, rear lights, fuel pump, electrics etc... and have just started coupling it up inside the car. The engine and box will be up and running next weekend. :)

Do you have any more pictures from today Kristian? :)

-Elliot
 
TWO short days of the build down and this is the current status:

Initialy there was a short delay in the buildup as the Complete loom that came with the car had to be removed.. this was down to the fact I didn't know where the micra loom finished and the SR20 loom started.. and how complete is was... So we have started with a blank canvas..:

This is the interor bare of loom:

dscn3616wq8.jpg


and the offending loom.... Is this an almera GTI ( SR20 ) ecu IAN?

dscn3613au2.jpg


So ...

Some prepairing of the engine had to be done... the Powersteering pump assembly and water pump assembly had to be removed.. Then hole in the side of the engine where the water pump had been had to be blanked off.. a Stainless steel sheet was cut and fabricated to fit over the hole using the original bolt holes for fixing.. this was fitted over the hole with High temp Gasket sealant.. then the original pump housing was ground down so It could be used to reinforce the stainless blanking plate and the original water pump housing bolts could be used...

then..

Engine IN.......... -it was a tight fit but bar slight trouble with one mount, (which would of been sorted today but my local scrappies wasn't open) its in...

dscn3623ll8.jpg


^^ALSO SEE ABOVE PICS^^

Then COMPLETE P10 Loom..

All of the loom is now in..........- bar some rejoining of some cable clusters where splicing was unavoidable in removal... and generally reconnecting some internal things.. clocks, some interior switches etc..

The Loom from the P10 eGT which was being fitted is much more than needed.. its inclusive of wiring for 4 door central locking and electric windows, 4wheels ABS sensors, Rear speakers with factory AMP, automatic ariel, Electric mirrors etc etc..

But Its much easier and reliable to have a complete loom that can be cut down as needed than splicing 2 looms together..



......then onto some bits and pieces...

Sports Steering wheels and RAID boss are on..

Both Front and Rear performance suspension is on... Consisting of KYB performance Shocks and GMAX sports springs.. (Adj panhard rod and strut braces will go on later)

Rear suspension:
dscn3636yr5.jpg


Fitted:
dscn3640ro7.jpg



Wheels are on.. Borbet Type T: 14''x9'' et15 ...

dscn3642nv3.jpg


getting there... phew..


The loom fitting should easily be finished next weekend as should the final engine mount fitting.. Gear linkages should also be finished.

Thios means the Engine can be started and Run.. also Full electrics should work...
 
Wow, it really looks like your getting on...
Whats the problem with the engine mounts, do you have pictures of them?
 
It seems that one mount on the SR20 eGT block is VERY slightly bigger that the Almera GTI eqivilant.. need a new mount is all.. but 'just nissan' arnt open on a sunday.. tried a few others but all closed
 
You might want to apologise if you go to 'just nissan', last time you went down iirc you broke an electric wingmirror off a peoplecarrier - markus was pritty POed. (he got a call 30 mins later someone wanted to buy it)

Do you mean the bit that bolts onto the engine... or your slithers of metal that are welded onto the car?
 
got the fuel pump wiring finished I think.. also the wiper motor.. but i just have to turn it on and see what happens with that.. Its got the same connector block so cant see any problems..
 
Cool.... so it should only need a bit more work doing before we start it up on Saturday. Are you connecting the rest of the loom inside the car to the loom coming from the engine, or are we doing that on Saturday?

-Elliot
 
Some stuff can be done but it means running the car in and out of the garage.. Im gonna get the grill for the Primera finished and the alterations to the kit done during this week.. unless I definatly get a good few hours off...

Ive just ordered new discs and pads for the back of my Primera too Elliot so they should be here by the weekend...
 
Cool... we'll fit them next weekend too.

I might come down early on Saturday morning tbh. Maybe 10am or something, as it would be better starting early. :)

I'll bring down the mole grips too, to push the rear pistons back. Should have the disks and pads done in 20 minutes if that. :D

-Elliot
 
i think this car wil drive crap tbh..its too much weight for a small light car to handle.
you picked the wrong engine and mods to go for handling imo..

in a straight line it could be great.

you need to think hard about the strenght issue you have.including your engine mounts
 
What I often wonder is why are valver corsas done time and time again with no major handling problems whatsoever, yet everyone worries when it is done to a micra. Am I just missing something blindingly obvious that is different or what?? Looks good tho Kristian!!! Very impressed with the progress, keep up the good work. :D
 
micra man said:
What I often wonder is why are valver corsas done time and time again with no major handling problems whatsoever, yet everyone worries when it is done to a micra. Am I just missing something blindingly obvious that is different or what?? Looks good tho Kristian!!! Very impressed with the progress, keep up the good work. :D
Click to expand...

they dont handle well at all

i know at least five in my town and very good mates with two of them....i could nail them round a twisty.

but on a straight line am dust..

most of the better handling ones have full coilovers roll cages and huge brakes..and its been around a long time compared to micra 2.0ltr swaps.

kristian has only chosen springs and kyb's and a rather flimsy shell (with the holes in it and no rear quarters) imo
 
Rik, the engine mounts will be strengthened. At the moment, they are basically for keeping the engine in so we can sort everything out. They will be strengthened more before any kind of power is put through them.

As for the strengthening of the chassis, it isn't going to be a flimsy chassis in the end. How many big engined projects do you see with a full rollcage and strenghtening of all vital parts right at the beginning of the make?!
 
Dusk said:
http://www.micra.org.uk/showthread.php?t=5355
Here, how can you strengthen things with an engine in the way?
Click to expand...

yeah this is how im doing mine first, roll cage and full seam welding, then chassis. course its less of a problem for me coz im not puttin a huge engine in and its gonna take a while for me to build mine. coming along fast, looks like theres gonna be loads of quick K11's knocking about. and mine lol
 
We certainly arent experts kristian, unlike yourself that is. But thankyou for noting our concerns sah.

here is another concern: when i had the kit, i noticed that the rear quarters always broke away from the original inner wing of the car and cracked - this has happened on yours before, its due to the flex... imagine the ammount of flex if it diddnt have the inner wing and the boot there..!?!!

Imagine if you had an accident, and someone ran into the back of you... it certainly wouldnt take long before there bumper was in the back of your seat >.<
 
Kristian, we were only voicing our concerns, sometimes when viewing a project from up close, you miss obvious things because you’re not seeing the larger picture. We aren't experts, but neither are you, I actually have been to college and am now at uni, and I’m doing mechanical engineering, so I may not be an 'expert' but I do have a better understanding or dynamics, structural mechanics, forces and design than you do. I was using my knowledge to try and help you out, because this is what you are doing:

Aiming for around 500kg with a 230-250bhp 2L engine.

You’re removing the front and rear arches and replacing them with fibre glass equivalents and also replacing the bonnet and boot. The boot and bonnet BOTH provide some structural strength, the boot more so, it prevents flexing when going over uneven terrain.

Your removing allot of metal and replacing it with fibre glass and that’s it... done... if you want this to work, you need a roll cage really, you are removing so much structural stuff from a car designed for 75bhp and replacing it with NOTHING. Then pushing 3 TIMES the power through the car and expecting it to be alright. IT WON’T. Your saying its something your going to deal with later, but when's later? If you drive the car it’s going to get screwed up, the flexing in the shell will make all the fibre glassing on your car break away. You can keep this 'you're talking to me like I'm bothered' attitude. I don’t know what the crack is with that, but we are giving you information you obviously don’t have, and since you are even less of an expert than us. I think you should take this information in. Sah

P.s, Personal comments about my car to Dusk on msn are'nt appreciated, if you have something to say, please say it to me.
 
i agree with ricardo....

there is no way the micra's "flex tastic" chassis is going to take 250bhp withou some serious streangthening.... and without a roll cage is just nuts..

im assuming your wanting to do a "little bandit" type car with 240+bhp in a micra not weighing alot..

that chassis was seam welded.... and bulked up in parts before non structural pieces were taken out or modified.,..

you would be better off doing to boot lid in carbon-fibre.... light and structuraly strong...

and also... glass holds almost 40% the rigidity of the shell... so if your going plastic there too..... its just gonna twist the thing to bits...
 
ricardo_swarez, as much as you sometimes seem to write nonsense, that is one of the best technical posts I have ever seen anyone write on here.

Many points very well said.

P.S. Note to EVERYONE posting in this thread. Keep it clean, remove the attitude or it will get locked.
 
Ed to be honest man, we've never seen eye to eye, but thanks for that. I respect that you have a very good knowledge of all things to do with cars, and its nice to see that even though we have our differences, you can still compliment me on a post. Thanks man.
 
good comment from richard i also have to agree because in my work we cover structural strenght, and on a car the boot does provide a level of rigidity for the back end.

you would be in alot of trouble if something hit you from behind and you have a fiberglass boot, dnt really want to think about it but you can imagine...

as for a fiber glass bonnet that should be ok as long as you seam weld the front wings, cross member etc. The bonnet is just sitting on top not providing much structural strenght.
 
glad to see its all coming together nicely.. thats a half micra half SR20 loom dude yes its an almera GTi ECU Aswell.. as for chasis strength i only wanted 200BHP and i wouldnt have driven it far without a cage.. i wanted more bracing aswell between the suspention as its a very big increase in weight... 500KG is abit of an unrealistic target weight dude.. 750KG id be more optamistic about...
 
kristian - your front springs. I'm wondering how hard they are? Something tells me you will have to go with some custom springs or coilovers with the right spring rate to suit the extra 50kg or so extra in the front end...
 
I've been reading this thread, and I know you're putting a cage etc in Kristian, but I believe that you're doing it backwards and that the chassis work should all be done before engine goes in and anything else.

But, it may be your way of working, so I'm going to reserve judgement on this till it's complete.

Although 600kg is very optimistic with a full cage in (they aren't light) and the SR20DET it's not going to be achievable easily.

I think that people should slacken off till the project is further down the road.
 
I agree some of your posts Kris have been confussing about what you are after and totally agree on the structural work being needed BUT I would fit the engine and get working before I pay for roll cages etc in case something goes wrong.

If you can post about what your complete plans are and they'll be less assumptions made.
 
I agree with the engine work being the first priority here. Although kristian realises that structual (sp) work is required, its money wasted if you cant get the engine running correctly. Anyways, good luck with it all!
 
I kind of agree with you Kristian, well actually I don't I always believe chassis and brakes etc should all be done before power.

However, this is just an opinion on a method of working, your method of work is different than mine, although my method of work comes from my father who owned various garages, built specialsied drag cars, big engine conversions, including V8's in a Ford Pop, mechanic for Lancia Rally Team.

My point is not that my method is better than yours, just that I have my methods from a source that I trust, now you may have your methods from your own source that you trust. Just work the way you want to work and get the damn thing done!


Just don't totally disregard all information provided Kristian, at least consider the advice then take it on board or disregard.


I just want to see this thing running dude. Best of luck
 
Looking good mate, will be very interested to see it all once its complete. Will be rapid also, but take it easy. I had enough problems with mine and that was just 1.0 to 1.3 - so don't cut corners!

I've 100% faith that you & Elliot have the knowlage and skill to pull this off. If me, George & Wayne can get a sr20 into a K10 (all up and running now :D) then this will be fine for you two!

Good luck & ignore the stirers!
 
Ive stated that I will no longer post updates in here now..

I might make a post or two at a much later date when Im close to the finished article..
 
All I can say is that I hope you have positioned the engine back far enough in the engine bay so that the driveshafts line up with the hubs...

If not, you will go through CV's faster than the fuel.

My only word of advise...

Other than that, the best of luck mate, as you will need it as the SR20 swap isn't for the light hearted.

Cheers

Dave

P.S. Why do you insist on removing the water pump and replacing it with a remote electirc unit. If the engine is placed in the engine bay correctly, you do not have to remove the water pump.
 
The engine is as far back as possible and the shafts actually line up with litteraly No offset to the hubs... Which is Ideal..

I wasn't keen on the electric water pump.. its easily a possibility to replace it if things dont work oout with the electric one.

Since fitting it its definately possible to leave it on the block.... but im saveing on HP's and again weight over the front wheels.. So will trial this electric one and if ive got problems.. Ill replace it with a mechanical one....


..
 
Arnold said:
I agree with the engine work being the first priority here. Although kristian realises that structual (sp) work is required, its money wasted if you cant get the engine running correctly. Anyways, good luck with it all!
Click to expand...


Getting an engine in and running is not exactly like cracking the enigma, but it is clearly going to be easier to see how to strengthen the front end with it in htere, although I would do all the strengthening before I drove it.
Also, for the extra rigidity and safety a full roll is surely a must for a project like this?

One final thing, what you say is an exhaust coming out of the JGTC Skylines is actually their petrol caps, the cars there all have side-exit exhausts, with the bottom of the passenger side floorpan remade to accomodate the pipework, but there was a R5 GTT with an exhaust out the boot and he had to seal it all off as he was giving himself carbon monoxide poisening!
 
if you have a look at 2000+ micras they have a brace bar between the bumper mounts, you could fit one of those to give you extra front end support :D

and if you do what cisco did and use the intercooler to make a custom vertical brace and then custom build a horizontal one too that holds the bigger radiator :)

good luck mate, your braver than most to take on a project like this ;)
 
kristian said:
The engine is as far back as possible and the shafts actually line up with litteraly No offset to the hubs... Which is Ideal..

I wasn't keen on the electric water pump.. its easily a possibility to replace it if things dont work oout with the electric one.

Since fitting it its definately possible to leave it on the block.... but im saveing on HP's and again weight over the front wheels.. So will trial this electric one and if ive got problems.. Ill replace it with a mechanical one....


..
Click to expand...

I take it you modified the raised section of the bulkhead then?
 
No,

Actually I initialy thought I would have to with my block being the 'highport' the inlet looks bigger than raceworx's orginal Almera GTI one, (same as my current P10 eGT Inlet) which He fabricated the mounts off with 'just enough room' for the inlet and good 'line of sight' for the d-shafts.. obviously reducing as much wear as possible on the CV joints...

With the pictures of his engine fitted I wanted mine in the same place with the only difference being the inlet manifold.. but its worked out just fine...

Its close but there is enough room for there to be no worries of fouling with the bulkhead or brakelines..

All the mounts are properly in now.. and the loom is being spliced up.. which Is a timeconsuming task but one thaty needs to be done...

NISMO ALMERA: Would I be able to get a list of what strengthening has been done to your 'little' bandit project... some images off you of your mounts and structural work?

Craig said:
Getting an engine in and running is not exactly like cracking the enigma, but it is clearly going to be easier to see how to strengthen the front end with it in htere, although I would do all the strengthening before I drove it.
Also, for the extra rigidity and safety a full roll is surely a must for a project like this?

One final thing, what you say is an exhaust coming out of the JGTC Skylines is actually their petrol caps, the cars there all have side-exit exhausts, with the bottom of the passenger side floorpan remade to accomodate the pipework, but there was a R5 GTT with an exhaust out the boot and he had to seal it all off as he was giving himself carbon monoxide poisening!
Click to expand...

A full 10x rollcage is being fitted.. mainly because i dont wanna kill myself and for the rigidity...

..you are right about the JGTC skylines, its an easy mistake to make with there being TWO of them ha ha... although Ive seen it on loads of cars that have taken the twin exit idea... and I love the look.. Im using the a solution a friend with a corsa used about the fumes problem..
 

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