Really tacky like 9
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Charlie
- Thread starter karlj
- Start date
Really tacky like 9
Only if you put it on upside down, tacky side goes to bonnet
OP
OP
If you dare i shall have to peel it off if i see your car at a showGreat so it shall be done
OP
OP
If you dare i shall have to peel it off if i see your car at a show
You do and I'll kick your teeth in
or cry like a little girl.... The latter is most likely 
You thought about carbon skinning instead Karl?
SirChris
Educated Bodger
I reckon you should do what u want lol.its not that badYou do and I'll kick your teeth in
signature...please ignore anything I say...when using my phone it is either bad grammar or rubbish spelling.
Hahaha. Its your car do what you want, i guess wrap is okay because you can peel it off if you dont like it anywayYou do and I'll kick your teeth in
You wouldn't regret it mate the GRP bonnets weigh F'all!
Was tempted to skin my GRP with carbon but plumbed for good old paint in the end.
I'm sure you'll make japfest no worries
P.s hope your dogs alrite
Was tempted to skin my GRP with carbon but plumbed for good old paint in the end.
I'm sure you'll make japfest no worries
P.s hope your dogs alrite
OP
OP
That's why I'm tempted by the grp bonnets, I'd be tempted to leave it in painted though, saves weight
Don't know if I'll make japfest if I'm honest last time I spoke to the vet the bill was almost 1k and at that price the super s is a real risk of being broken
Yeah if done properly it looks okay but i just prefer a clean look but thats just me everyone has different tastesIt doesn't look completely ####, uncle Silvia did it a couple of years back and he did a good job
Don't worry Scott I'm too lazy to be violent
Me to
OP
OP
I prefer Pins personaly, but if you're going to do pins you should remove the hinges and do pins front and rear
Wouldn't look right any other way
OP
OP
You would be as well if you were driving the astra, don't get me wrong it's a brilliant car but my god is it boring
Dougyledds
Woopa Pandastyle!
14!
OP
OP
Shh you, you had a rusty bonnet
SirChris
Educated Bodger
Lol you got him there
signature...please ignore anything I say...when using my phone it is either bad grammar or rubbish spelling.
OP
OP
A little while back I bought myself an auto darkening welding mask and since then my confidence has grown, so I bought this.....
For a little welding project.
No I'm not going turbo, even if all I need is induction hosing
Next was some new harnesses for the newly fitted bucket seats, I was planning on buying Motty's friends harnesses but these came up cheaper.
Still waiting on them to arrive though.
I don't know why but I've always wanted an oil catch can....
So I bought one
Next time you see pictures of these they'll hopefully be in the car
For a little welding project.
No I'm not going turbo, even if all I need is induction hosing
Next was some new harnesses for the newly fitted bucket seats, I was planning on buying Motty's friends harnesses but these came up cheaper.
Still waiting on them to arrive though.
I don't know why but I've always wanted an oil catch can....
So I bought one
Next time you see pictures of these they'll hopefully be in the car
Belly93
to turbo or new lump :/ hmmm
i think it would look ok on charlie
OP
OP
Looks like the same catch tank as mine
Only really bought it cause it goes with my scheme
i think it would look ok on charlie
Cheers we'll find out this weekend (hopefully)
Belly93
to turbo or new lump :/ hmmm
should no about the engine soon just cancelled the insuranceOnly really bought it cause it goes with my scheme
Cheers we'll find out this weekend (hopefully)
OP
OP
Today was as good a day as any to make a start in finishing putting Charlie back on the road...
Except...
Nothing has gone right yet...
went to try to get the dip stick out again by drilling it.. fail lost the chuck key for my corded and my cordless has a dead battery
So I thought sod it lets swap manifolds, all I need to do is swap the lambda from one and put it in the other... fail fire and brute force would not budge it and the spanner (me) chewed up the nut sleeve thingy (you know what I mean)
That said its not been a completely wasted day, I've started on the turbo manifold (pics to come in a separate thread)
Except...
Nothing has gone right yet...
went to try to get the dip stick out again by drilling it.. fail lost the chuck key for my corded and my cordless has a dead battery
So I thought sod it lets swap manifolds, all I need to do is swap the lambda from one and put it in the other... fail fire and brute force would not budge it and the spanner (me) chewed up the nut sleeve thingy (you know what I mean)
That said its not been a completely wasted day, I've started on the turbo manifold (pics to come in a separate thread)
OP
OP
Right a bit of a better day....
Started off with this...
(this isn't the actual manifold I used)
Carefully decide where to cut...
Then I invited all the local pigeons round to help me finish up...
And it's done
Going to clean it up and see if the welds hold, then chuck it in the cupboard
Started off with this...
(this isn't the actual manifold I used)
Carefully decide where to cut...
Then I invited all the local pigeons round to help me finish up...
And it's done
Going to clean it up and see if the welds hold, then chuck it in the cupboard
Enuo
Glorified Electrician
Those welds don't look too bad for mig on cast, you'd need tig if you wanted it perfect unless you heat the manifold red hot to weld it.Right a bit of a better day....
Started off with this...
(this isn't the actual manifold I used)
Carefully decide where to cut...
Then I invited all the local pigeons round to help me finish up...
And it's done
Going to clean it up and see if the welds hold, then chuck it in the cupboard
Enuo
Glorified Electrician
same goes for stick, you'd still need to get the cast stuff red hot for the metal to blend well.I wish it was mig, it's stick welded
Test fitted it with my t2 exhaust housing and its not a bad fit
Give yourself a fighting chance by getting the metal really clean before welding - The flap wheel is your friend.
pork
Club Member
Pffft, who needs pointers
lol learn by doing, that how I learnt, only been welding a few months, realise your own problems then think of how to overcome them.Practice is a must!
Looks cool tho, you decided what you wanna do about turbo?
OP
OP
Like not thinking and removing the electrode right after you've used it, my finger and thumb smelt and tasted like burnt chicken
solarice
Ex. Club Member
I dont think that's what they mean by "finger licking good"
pollyp
Club Member
when I was stick welding my cracked turbo mani, I always found it essential to practice on a similar thickness scrap piece to tune the machine amps and my technique so I'm ready before committing to the actual piece.
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-45#post-503515
grinding down to bare metal for the weld area and ground lead ensures a much cleaner & easier weld.
my preferred technique was to
- flick the stick afew times to pre-heat the tip till its glowing (makes it start much easier/gentler without sticking),
- keep the stick at a very shallow angle to the surface so it doesn't blow holes or blob,
- and pulse weld at 1sec intervals to keep the heat down by flicking my wrist between stick touching the weld (glows white hot, lay few mm of bead) and then straight out to stop the weld (watch it cool down to medium brightness) then continue again before the slag hardens.
getting comfortable n posture n pre-planning ur movements is also very important.
you don't wanna start a bead only to find your position has binded up, have to stop 1/2way, chip & wirebrush the slag off, before recommencing at another position.
as you weld, the cold piece heats up anyway and welding becomes abit easier & smoother
if you have bad welds, u always have a grinder to erase the errors n start again. it should preferably look all smooth n even with no pinhole dimples
after welding, tap it hard with a hammer to check there's no weak inclusions in the joint cos you'll be hanging a big heavy turbo on the end of this
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-45#post-503515
grinding down to bare metal for the weld area and ground lead ensures a much cleaner & easier weld.
my preferred technique was to
- flick the stick afew times to pre-heat the tip till its glowing (makes it start much easier/gentler without sticking),
- keep the stick at a very shallow angle to the surface so it doesn't blow holes or blob,
- and pulse weld at 1sec intervals to keep the heat down by flicking my wrist between stick touching the weld (glows white hot, lay few mm of bead) and then straight out to stop the weld (watch it cool down to medium brightness) then continue again before the slag hardens.
getting comfortable n posture n pre-planning ur movements is also very important.
you don't wanna start a bead only to find your position has binded up, have to stop 1/2way, chip & wirebrush the slag off, before recommencing at another position.
as you weld, the cold piece heats up anyway and welding becomes abit easier & smoother
if you have bad welds, u always have a grinder to erase the errors n start again. it should preferably look all smooth n even with no pinhole dimples
after welding, tap it hard with a hammer to check there's no weak inclusions in the joint cos you'll be hanging a big heavy turbo on the end of this
Enuo
Glorified Electrician
car manifold cast is probably a bit cleaner than the hundred y/o railway wagon axleboxe cast I'm used to welding eh, but with mig at least heating first makes it easier. I'll second cleanliness too. Also cut a chamfer to leave a channel to fill with weld helps with penetration.
