what did you do to your micra today ?
- Thread starter frank
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frank
Club Member
bargain that is (Y)
WDID ? yet another engine change :wasntme:
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=15etuoo&s=5
hoodedreeper
Ex. Club Member
Sorted out my number plate light,washed and hoovered her 
So what did you sort for the w/g in the end? thought you were going for external for some reason?
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frank
Club Member
Excellent! Good stuff. Should be just the job eh. What psi is the actuator set at?its a different tubby and manifold now ed (garrett GT1549), a ball bearing jobbie
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frank
Club Member
twas 20psi on this styrup pump ed
but there was about 4 turns of preload on the rod, and i,ve added an extra spring to bring it down to about 10 psi for nowhttp://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=jfup9s&s=5
pollyp
Club Member
added an extra spring to stiffen the actuator tension to loosen the WG? are you sure u got the WG mechanism mumbo jumbo correct this time?
the actuator looks like the normal "naturally pulls, +ve pressure pushes rod" type
so is this WG mechanism where the arm is on the same side of the WG port (tension shuts the WG)? or is it reverse like the other diesel turbo that broke the engine (pushing shuts the WG)?
the actuator looks like the normal "naturally pulls, +ve pressure pushes rod" type
so is this WG mechanism where the arm is on the same side of the WG port (tension shuts the WG)? or is it reverse like the other diesel turbo that broke the engine (pushing shuts the WG)?
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frank
Club Member
you can see if you zoom in on that pic in post # 1804 paul, it works in reverse to the vacuum operated mitsubishi tubby, and you can see the spring on the rod too
pollyp
Club Member
you can see if you zoom in on that pic in post # 1804 paul, it works in reverse to the vacuum operated mitsubishi tubby, and you can see the spring on the rod too
ah see it (Y)
Today... Looked up my journey to uni via london, coventry and preston before arriving in hull 7 hours later... my poor car is gonna be tired after that!
Considering switching back to old standard wheels to get a few more MPGs on such an epic run!
ALSO got hold of a spoiler off a micra sport, unfortunately in blue but good condition, just dunno whether its worth it to drill my boot lid to fit it!
Considering switching back to old standard wheels to get a few more MPGs on such an epic run!
ALSO got hold of a spoiler off a micra sport, unfortunately in blue but good condition, just dunno whether its worth it to drill my boot lid to fit it!
pollyp
Club Member
and a numb bum:laugh: my last trip to cardiff and back lasted 15hrs and was very aching:doh:
i find i get the most mpg by:
-driving through a full tank non-stop
-brim tank only after its fully warmed up in morning
-minimising any electronical loads on the alternator by not using lights, heater fan, anything plugged into cig lighter etc as much as possible
-driving during daytime
-pump tyres upto max
-keep a consistant speed round 60mph such as following lorries
i just bonded my wrap round spoiler onto the boot with PU sealant. stays on fine upto 120mph when i was on track
Yeah pretty much my plan, cant afford to lose too much money on extra fuel... student life lol... Never knew warming it up before a fill helped though? whats the science behind that? May run the tires as high as 40psi depending how wet it is, less drag but also much less peak grip! Of course ive also gotta consider there are limits when doing 375 miles in a pretty much fully loaded 1L... gonna struggle on hills!
pollyp
Club Member
well it doesn't change the fact that the worst mpg is during cold start, instead its more for consistancy so the cold start period doesn't affect the overall mpg reading of the long trip.
ohh before i forget, always set the heater to full cold when cold starting cos the matrix shares the engine coolant. no point asking for warmth when the engines cold and the longer the engine takes to warm upto temp the more fuel is required. so leave it at full cold till the engine temp gauge is 1/2way and then u can use the heater. but preferably try not to cos it kinda robs heat from the engine = fuel unless the coolants above 80c and the thermostats open.
actually mod-wise i wonder what if the heater matrix receives excess hot water only when its ready where the thermostats open above 80c (ie wasted heat goes to heater when available rather than to the radiator) rather than being plumbed directly into (and fighting with) the engine coolant?
and try to prep the car into keeping the constant speed before reaching the hill just like cycling (judge how much u need to downshift in order to be able to maintain the same speed) and look far ahead to avoid traffic.
if u stop for over a min and it looks like ur not gonna be moving soon, turn engine off.
try not to use friction brakes, Engine Brake instead
fair enough, makes sense on the heat thing yeah, usually i am pretty good for eco driving anyway, just wondered why the wait for it warming up but now i know! On your theory though i have no idea and no way of checking how the matrix works, maybe frank will know? If he doesnt nobody will i think!
Just re read the earlier post btw, was your spoiler originally fitted with the 2 bolts on top and then clips on the side? Did you just remove these and then use sealant?
Just re read the earlier post btw, was your spoiler originally fitted with the 2 bolts on top and then clips on the side? Did you just remove these and then use sealant?
pollyp
Club Member
normally the matrix is always plumbed parallel into the coolant system (takes in coolant from the coolant return pipe before the thermostat) so when you turn to full hot, the matrix valve opens and tries to transfer whatever heat's in the engine coolant into the cabin air even when its the engine that needs it most during warm up.
my theory is to keep the coolant flowing only within the engine till its upto temp before the 1st thermostat opens allowing the excess hot coolant to flow towards the matrix to heat the cabin. if the heater matrix is not utilised and the coolant continues to heat up, the 2nd thermostat opens allowing the excess heat to be cooled by the rad into atmosphere.
anyway i think thats a seperate mod thread altogether
my spoiler, yeah i dremeled off the fixing bolts (cos dont wanna drill the boot and also cause a leak) and side clip brackets (my non-spoiler SLX didn't have the boot clip) and simply bonded it all on. this PU sealant going all along the edge is real tough n strong and will not come off without cutting it off
Yeah, definitely a different thread haha but a pretty neat idea, would be quite useful certainly.
Yeah the holes in the boot were my only real worry as well, how easy is it to get it sorted with sealant? i dont want it fixing on at an angle coz of movement while drying etc... and where did you get the sealant? Im in the same boat with no boot holes or side clips on my matinee version BUT the upside is it never had a rear wiper so is already pretty sleek
only issue with bonding may be my car has odd laminate like coating over the paint? dunno if its coz its fairly old but its like a gloss see through cover over the normal paint beneath... not sure if bonding to this kind of thing would be solid? Any clue on that?
pollyp
Club Member
Yeah, definitely a different thread haha but a pretty neat idea, would be quite useful certainly.
Yeah the holes in the boot were my only real worry as well, how easy is it to get it sorted with sealant? i dont want it fixing on at an angle coz of movement while drying etc... and where did you get the sealant? Im in the same boat with no boot holes or side clips on my matinee version BUT the upside is it never had a rear wiper so is already pretty sleek
its a kinda messy procedure. all detailed on my blog, post #30
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/35251-PollyMobiles-Rebuild
i roughen both mating faces, apply continuous bead of PU sealant to the mating edges, place spoiler on boot in one move (no room for shuffling error), run finger along edge to create a nice fillet edge of sealant (clean excess with petrol or other solvents that won't attack paint), hold it into position till it sets with some weak masking tape that won't rip the paint off, clean up the sealant mess when fully cured.
for a wrap round spoiler thats anchored all round, sealant without bolts is fine. but if ur fitting those upper top lip spoilers, i'm not sure just the sealant on its own will hold so suggest anchoring em down mechanically too for safety
Ok, im gonna have to take some time on this then.. its a full wraparound spoiler so i think the sealant job should be ok, and roughening should remove my problem with the odd laminated paint... better find myself some sealant and some confidence to man up and do it! Really dont wanna have to rip off a wonky spoiler..
Oh.. and i feel sorry for that micra you rebuild in the blog... so much rust and rot!
pollyp
Club Member
well the wrap spoiler will be covering any odd paint finish underneath anyway. roughing it with abrasive paper gives the sealant a better key to grab onto.
forgot to mention, i use the black PU sealant i got from local partco autoparts store for a sealant gun, tis similar to gasket sealant.
which micra u talkin bout. the first blue SLX with all the front rot? meh it was all a learning curve and now i know bout it and least the cars all treated
well the wrap spoiler will be covering any odd paint finish underneath anyway. roughing it with abrasive paper gives the sealant a better key to grab onto.
forgot to mention, i use the black PU sealant i got from local partco autoparts store for a sealant gun, tis similar to gasket sealant.
which micra u talkin bout. the first blue SLX with all the front rot? meh it was all a learning curve and now i know bout it and least the cars all treated
Yeah the blues slx, looked a mess but much better after you worked on it
. Think i got lucky with mine it seems pretty clean apart from dents and scrapes, flew straight through the last MOT no probs which was nice, just want a new left wing as the previous owner drove it into the skip on her driveway!I'll have to look around my local stores to get some of this sealant then, got time to find it though ive gotta rub down, primer and spray the spoiler first, not much use to me in metallic blue on a red car lol, gonna go either gloss or matt black with the bumpers, saves me worrying about colour matching the 16year faded paint!
yeah think im gonna do the same but with red body, im still not decided on bonding or drilling as well though.. i may measure up and drill the holes then use sealant to hold it all with them as guides for it, would cover the holes with sealant too to prevent leaking, reckon that would work? I think im more likely to get a straight fit that way and itll hold better too
pollyp
Club Member
Ur preferance. The sealant on its own works fine for that spoiler. I just didn't wanna bother with the hassle of measurin n drillin the bolt holes incase i didn't get it right and eventually had to sell the blue slx anyway so swap spoiler onto grey slx n repainted the blue boot without having to fill bolt holes
pollyp
Club Member
The sides where it bends down makes it sit centred. I just make sure the lip edges evenly line up n lock its position.
I had to saw the sealant off with string when i was swappin the spoiler
Stani1029
Club Member
Drilling the holes are a pain but it doesnt have to be 100% like nissan. So long at the nut cant come through from the other side and you put a bead of sealant around the hole inbetween the bootlid/spoiler to stop water getting in.
Finding the centre of the boot and spoiler then measuring outwards is the best way of getting it close first time. Ive always bolted mines on and bonded the bottom flaps and held in place with tape till dry
Finding the centre of the boot and spoiler then measuring outwards is the best way of getting it close first time. Ive always bolted mines on and bonded the bottom flaps and held in place with tape till dry
solarice
Ex. Club Member
As mine doesnt have power steering, i figured i'd use the space. So i've started converting a power steering bottle to work as an oil catch tank. Current cost so far £1.50
Also picked up a remote petrol release flap mech (only opens petrol door), I know someone was talking about wanting one but cant remember who?...pm me if your interested. Its in that apple green metallic colour.
Also picked up a remote petrol release flap mech (only opens petrol door), I know someone was talking about wanting one but cant remember who?...pm me if your interested. Its in that apple green metallic colour.
Reworked the air intake again, using the original air box and filter (insurance dont like me changing it) and running an air feed to just behind the grill, much more air here than in the stock location! Also got locking wheel nuts so my alloys dont take a vacation haha (well, insurance reasons really, nobodys gonna bother nicking them anyway!)
Monday: new fuel filter and air filter, tank of high grade petrol and a bottle of injector cleaner
Today: finally got a Haynes manual, contemplated doing some much needed repair work tomorrow(front right lower ball joint, and find source of engine stalling under acceleration), looked at some new wheel covers for my winter steelies
Today: finally got a Haynes manual, contemplated doing some much needed repair work tomorrow(front right lower ball joint, and find source of engine stalling under acceleration), looked at some new wheel covers for my winter steelies
for a few days now,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
ecu and main interior loom swapped out
old sr loom has the factory jargon attached saving me 2-3 kilo's with this SLX loom here.
then we got the interior out so why not fling it in the bath for a submerged full rinse job.
and make the job quicker with the wet n dry to dry fast by the radiator,
you can now make out the hyroglyphics,,,,,,,and what the hidden message is
i think it says "the micra jumped over the moon" but i'm crap at hydroglyphs
ecu and main interior loom swapped out
old sr loom has the factory jargon attached saving me 2-3 kilo's with this SLX loom here.
then we got the interior out so why not fling it in the bath for a submerged full rinse job.
and make the job quicker with the wet n dry to dry fast by the radiator,
you can now make out the hyroglyphics,,,,,,,and what the hidden message is
i think it says "the micra jumped over the moon" but i'm crap at hydroglyphs
solarice
Ex. Club Member
lol you should be fine.
Ah i remember scrubbing the interior of my k10. It was factory new when i was finished, it had the brown interior and the seats with the built in headrests. Oh yeah.
hole shell rinsed/brush'd from half way up,,,,,,,,,all seats and carpets also a few times
the amount of durt and cloth from under carpet loss + interior dirt, and $1. 56 2-3 ounce maybe,had to be done as i remember dark color'd fizzy drink spilt more than once. a hole can once
the loom was the biggest winner -2+ kg i think
now it done ,just wet/dry it now and then,,,, no need for remove unless --------- to it goes on:grinning:
done the k10 back in 200000 full re spray and full interior gut out (not dash) as the boy their saying brand new feeling
k 11 deserve the same i thought,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and plenty weight drop'd out from just removing wings an mudgaurds
the amount of durt and cloth from under carpet loss + interior dirt, and $1. 56 2-3 ounce maybe,had to be done as i remember dark color'd fizzy drink spilt more than once. a hole can once
the loom was the biggest winner -2+ kg i think
now it done ,just wet/dry it now and then,,,, no need for remove unless --------- to it goes on:grinning:
done the k10 back in 200000 full re spray and full interior gut out (not dash) as the boy their saying brand new feeling
k 11 deserve the same i thought,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and plenty weight drop'd out from just removing wings an mudgaurds
lee k0011
I hate rust :(
After a failed attempt at fitting a new gage cluster went for the first decent drive with the induction kit fitted. The car felt a lot more responsive my wife to be even noticed a difference when she drove but was a lil concerned by the noise it make now when you put your foot down lol..
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frank
Club Member
impressive bellmouth lee (Y)
WDID ?
cobbled together a rising rate f/p/r that jumps the fuel pressure from 20 psi to 45 psi under boost, working sound as a pound @ 5psi of boost (Y) (a jump from 20 to 60 psi would be even sweeter tho)
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sorted out the steering rack bush, finished undersealing the car, and had the rear sill/inner arch chopped out and welded up. MOT this week.
Collecting my new wheels next weekend so I can swap the tyres from them to my OTHER new wheels, then set about the springs and getting it riding correctly.
Collecting my new wheels next weekend so I can swap the tyres from them to my OTHER new wheels, then set about the springs and getting it riding correctly.
the chances are you've probably lost power, often induction kits without being coupled with any other modification ie 4 branch manifold+exhaust system struggle to add much power if any at all, usually just all noise, and i find its not worth the extra attention for the power hike fwn
you little 2 bit,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, eng sensor , eng fuses , interior fuse loom swap succesfull. car started,eng check light flashing car switch off happen'd 2-3 times till i realized my other nats key is on the same bunch.started with no check light and cars running smooth now under 2k cruising is back
pollyp
Club Member
k11_whore
Steve :)
Well work was dead so used loads of cleaning stuff and valeted the interior no more bottles or empty fag packets kicking about, 3 bin bags worth of rubbish weighing prox 3kg and smells lovely to tomorow i shall be up at decxters and fixing the noise i cant diagnose, updates then
and smells lovely to tomorow i shall be up at decxters and fixing the noise i cant diagnose, updates then 
