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Unit Nr4: TANK rebuild: new paint and first facelift retro conversion

Seb_

Give me some frogs.
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Hi
got this car as a gift last year, almost ended in a recycling bin but somehow managed to save it.
Made a video about the process (10min):

Hope you like it!
 
Next step is to fit some 1.3 or 1.4 cams to gain a few HP. Don't want to mess with an engine swap nor to find a whole ECU set with the transponder and the transponder reader.
If anyone has some to sell don't hesitate to send me a PM.
 
Salut mon ami! Glad to see you posting on here again, I was wondering if you were still about the other day, didn't think to actually check on the forums!
 
Hi James! Still in the K11 game! Hope you’re doing great! When do you buy another one?
 
Hi James! Still in the K11 game! Hope you’re doing great! When do you buy another one?
I actually had another one last year, but engine troubles and rust got the better of it in January :(

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Did some due maintenance on the front brakes: new discs, anti rattle clips and pads. Wire brushed surface rust and brake dust, Cleaned and regreased caliper pins. Only a few mm left on boht pads and discs.
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Also I installed a cheap 7” Android double din stereo, mostly to use wireless Apple Car Play, it works great!
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Relocated the headlights height setting switch inside the ash tray.
 
Well, « randomly » passed by a an ad for a CGA3 with only 54000KM and impulsively bought it 🤦🏻‍♂️
New clutch, stock 1.0 gearbox and CGA3 might be fun after all.
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Started to take care of the new low mileage 1.4 engine whom will replace the old 180 000KM 1.0 one.

Unbolted both the flywheel and clutch (the cheap fake Makita electric ratchet clearly struggled but made it), checked the main seal, degreased everything, fitted a new NGK O2 sensor (engine came without it), cleaned both the airflow meter and the throttle body, removed the old spark plugs (no trace of oil in the spark plugs wells), checked the coilpacks (they are in good condition too, no cracks or bent tips.) The exhaust manifold gasket is not damaged.
Bought a new LUK clutch and the PS / alternator belts. I will use my GA16 airbox with a green airfilter.

So far everything is working according to the plan, a cheap, comfy and reliable daily driver with 90ish HP.

Still havent decided about a few things tho:

Should I lightly sand the 1.0 flywheel surface? Some people say do it, some say don't

Should I remove the engine with the gearbox attached, or remove the gearbox first and then the engine. (I plan to use the 1.0 flywheel and gearbox with the 1.4 engine)

Should I use the Z10 Alpha exhaust manifold or my Frankspeed exhaust manifold?

Should I buy regular BKR5E11 NGK sparkplugs or cop the BKR6E11 colder grade ones?

Should I keep the stock 1.0 ECU or will it cause underfueling issues?

Any advice appreciated !
 
I would remove the engine with the gearbox attached. And use the alpha manifold with the bkr6 spark plugs.
I would also swap in a 1.4 ecu.
 
I would remove the engine with the gearbox attached. And use the alpha manifold with the bkr6 spark plugs.
I would also swap in a 1.4 ecu.
Appreciated Maarten! Ryan whom did that video:
also told me it was the best way, removing the whole unit engine+gb .
I did order a set of BKR6 plugs a few days ago :) I will check if they don't turn too soot black after a few hundreds of KMs!
 
Some updates on what I gathered / left to do:

Done:
Gave the block a good clean with some degreaser and elbow grease
Removed the old clutch and flywheel on the CGA3,
Removed the heavy AC models specific alternator bracket plate and pulley.
Gave the MAF a good clean

Bought or found in my spare parts stock:
Bought a cheap engine lift crane 149 euros + won a 10 euros discount coupon= 139 euros
Bought some cheap plastic centering tool for the clutch install 3euros
Bought a brand new LUK clutch 80 euros
Bought a brand new NGK first lambda 41 euros
Found an old 100NX airbox FREE
Found my old Z10 Alpha ex manifold FREE
Found some spare new OEM exhaust manifold gaskets FREE
Bought a CGA3 first catalizer because when I got the manifold 10 years ago I ditched it to mount the CG13 shorter one instead, thinking "I'll never have a facelift) (...) 50 euros
Bought Monroe front shocks 35x2= 70 euros minus 10 euros coupon = 60 euros
Bought KYB rear shocks 24x2= 48 euros
Bought 2 new MAPCO belts 3x2= 6 euros
Bought some cheap -20c green coolant 4 euros
Found 4 spare liters of ELF 10W40 engine oil FREE
Found 1 spare liter of Dextron for PS pump FREE
Found a spare OEM Nissan GA16 air filter to fit on the 100NX airbox FREE
Bought a dry air filter because the Nissan one was oily and I don't want to foul the cleaned CGA3 Bosch MAF 4 euros
Bought a set of colder grade spark plugs NGK BKR611 3x4= 12 euros
Found spare gearbox oil 1Lx4 75W90 FREE
Bought MAPCO ARBs links and bushes set 25 euros
Found a spare facelift speedometer with rev counter FREE
Brand new K11 parts are definitely becoming harder and harder to find, and there is less and less manufacturers choice for most of the parts...

Need to buy:
Rear main seal (changed my mind and decided to change it while I'm at it)
Spare low mileage OEM alternator because the one on the 1L engine is 180K KM and thanks to @pollyp I know they can't be fully serviced:
Spare low mileage OEM starter
Cheap device to clean the CGA3 injectors


Need to do:
Swap the 1L crank pulley onto the CGA3
Swap the 1L gearbox onto the CGA3
Swap the 1L flywheel onto the CGA3
Ship the ECU to Mark from Tornado Systems whom replied he was still provided ECU flashing and NATS removal, he also confirmed to me that both 1L and 1.4L ECU can be sent and flashed.
 
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Well, I was looking for guides/infos about swaping the lighter 1L crank pulley but just found a post from @frank not recommending doing it:
Also well decided to clean the stock injectors as both @Ed from Fusion and Mark from Tornados say it's a useless mod without big power/turbo:
Mark basically said the same thing to me by email about CGA3 injectors.
 
Bit of progress.
ECU removed and ready to be shipped to Mark from Tornado.
Got the car on jack stands+front wheels on planks of wood.
Started to dismantle things inside the engine bay.
Front panel unscrewed.
Engine oil, coolant and and gearbox oil flushed.
Injectors and coilpacks labelled and disconnected,
Battery tray, air intake and grounding wires removed.
Powered steering wheel pump, radiator fan, MAF, lambda, cam and flywheel sensors disconnected.
Ex manifold bolts nuts and front cat nuts removed.
So far no major difficulties, I guess spraying penetrating oil the night before helped a bit.
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Also copped some nice bits, Nismo N2 front anti roll bar and Nismo strut bar:
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Silicone hoses removed
Manifold and cat removed
Radiator removed
Bonnet locking mechanism removed
Trying to find the bolts holding the engine to the gearbox, I’m routing for the Frank method, leaving the gearbox and driveshaft in.
 
So in the end I had to remove both the engine and the attached gearbox as a whole. Because of the plate in between on the facelift models.
Therefore I had to remove the driveshafts. RHD side went out smoothly but LHD been a nightmare. The part of the driveshaft connected to the gearbox did stay locked into the gearbox, and I removed the rest of the shaft while pulling. Even with the gearbox out, it looks like it's stuck in it.
Now I need to open the engine to grab the 1.0L flywheel and install it in the new low mileage 1.4L engine, and attach the new low mileage 1.0L gearbox I bought.
 
Well got stuck while trying to split the engine from the gearbox. Been removed the 4 bolts holding the 2 together plus the back support one, but can’t separate them to grab the flywheel out.

Any idea? Am I missing something?

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It’s been a long journey.

Completed the low mileage CGA3 swap, 1L flywheel, low mileage 1L gearbox, new clutch, new suspensions, new sensors. Refurbished the whole engine loom.

Took the car for a drive test, started 1st attempt, pulled hard and smooth, but back home it started to stall while I was parked. Now it’s not cranking again except I if slightly keep pressing on the throttle, then it runs smooth. As soon as I release the pedal it stalls tho. For information I kept the 1L ECU.
Fuel filter is new. Spark plugs color is looking good.

So now I hesitate between a few culprits:
Fuel pump
ECU
Fuel pump relay
 
I would also look at the intake and throttle body, maybe something is out of adjustment etc. not letting enough air in for the engine to idle? I have no idea about coilpack motors, but the dizzy ones did have their fair share of throttle body related quirks.
 
Thanks for the hint, the Bosch electronic ICV module is definitely on the list too. They don’t seem adjustable so I’ll probably try to reuse the one from the original 1L engine.
 
The IACV was indeed the culprit. I did remove all the meshes (metal and plastic) above the throttle body, sprayed carburetor cleaner inside the IACV inlet, and the car started and idled correctly first try!
 
Well after a few days working great, the car stopped in the middle of the road and didnt crank anymore, even while flooring the throttle, got to get it back home and look whats wrong :LOL:
 
While removing the old fuel pump to install the used one I bought from EBay, I quickly understood what happened, the hose connected to the fuel pump got damaged and disconnected itself from the pump.
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Didn’t bother myself to fix it and swapped it with the whole new assembly.

Car is now working well again :) the only downside of the 1L gearbox/flywheel mod is that cruising on the highway in 5th gear is now less smooth than before past 100KMH
 
Another day, another hiccup, check engine light got on.

Car was running right but a bit rich/over fueling (70KM for a quarter of a fuel gauge), like if the O2 sensor was disconnected. After a quick OBD scan, faulty O2 sensor indeed:
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« Funny » thing is that the manifold O2 sensor is a brand new NGK one, I did put back the old Bosch one (130 000KM), engine light didn’t come back and fuel consumption noticeably decreased and went back to normal.


Lesson: when it comes to sensors, 2001-2002 coilpack/Bosch ECU only run well with OEM Bosch ones (MAF sensors and O2 sensors).
 
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