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Unit Nr4: TANK rebuild: new paint and first facelift retro conversion
- Thread starter Seb_
- Start date
James
Chairman
I actually had another one last year, but engine troubles and rust got the better of it in January
OP
OP
Almost thereI actually had another one last year, but engine troubles and rust got the better of it in January
View attachment 87504
OP
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Started to take care of the new low mileage 1.4 engine whom will replace the old 180 000KM 1.0 one.
Unbolted both the flywheel and clutch (the cheap fake Makita electric ratchet clearly struggled but made it), checked the main seal, degreased everything, fitted a new NGK O2 sensor (engine came without it), cleaned both the airflow meter and the throttle body, removed the old spark plugs (no trace of oil in the spark plugs wells), checked the coilpacks (they are in good condition too, no cracks or bent tips.) The exhaust manifold gasket is not damaged.
Bought a new LUK clutch and the PS / alternator belts. I will use my GA16 airbox with a green airfilter.
So far everything is working according to the plan, a cheap, comfy and reliable daily driver with 90ish HP.
Still havent decided about a few things tho:
Should I lightly sand the 1.0 flywheel surface? Some people say do it, some say don't
Should I remove the engine with the gearbox attached, or remove the gearbox first and then the engine. (I plan to use the 1.0 flywheel and gearbox with the 1.4 engine)
Should I use the Z10 Alpha exhaust manifold or my Frankspeed exhaust manifold?
Should I buy regular BKR5E11 NGK sparkplugs or cop the BKR6E11 colder grade ones?
Should I keep the stock 1.0 ECU or will it cause underfueling issues?
Any advice appreciated !
Unbolted both the flywheel and clutch (the cheap fake Makita electric ratchet clearly struggled but made it), checked the main seal, degreased everything, fitted a new NGK O2 sensor (engine came without it), cleaned both the airflow meter and the throttle body, removed the old spark plugs (no trace of oil in the spark plugs wells), checked the coilpacks (they are in good condition too, no cracks or bent tips.) The exhaust manifold gasket is not damaged.
Bought a new LUK clutch and the PS / alternator belts. I will use my GA16 airbox with a green airfilter.
So far everything is working according to the plan, a cheap, comfy and reliable daily driver with 90ish HP.
Still havent decided about a few things tho:
Should I lightly sand the 1.0 flywheel surface? Some people say do it, some say don't
Should I remove the engine with the gearbox attached, or remove the gearbox first and then the engine. (I plan to use the 1.0 flywheel and gearbox with the 1.4 engine)
Should I use the Z10 Alpha exhaust manifold or my Frankspeed exhaust manifold?
Should I buy regular BKR5E11 NGK sparkplugs or cop the BKR6E11 colder grade ones?
Should I keep the stock 1.0 ECU or will it cause underfueling issues?
Any advice appreciated !
OP
OP
Tyding up some old parts stock I found an old shift knob made by @markbognor in 2010
micra.org.uk
I did install it and it’s still looking dope!
Unique Brushed/Satin Aluminium Gear knob with allen bolt detail - £20 Posted
Here's a one of a kind aluminium gear knob to suit a K11 gear leaver shaft. It features a countersunk allen bolt detail. £20 posted to your door.
micra.org.uk
Attachments
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Appreciated Maarten! Ryan whom did that video:
also told me it was the best way, removing the whole unit engine+gb .
I did order a set of BKR6 plugs a few days ago
I will check if they don't turn too soot black after a few hundreds of KMs!
OP
OP
Some updates on what I gathered / left to do:
Done:
Gave the block a good clean with some degreaser and elbow grease
Removed the old clutch and flywheel on the CGA3,
Removed the heavy AC models specific alternator bracket plate and pulley.
Gave the MAF a good clean
Bought or found in my spare parts stock:
Bought a cheap engine lift crane 149 euros + won a 10 euros discount coupon= 139 euros
Bought some cheap plastic centering tool for the clutch install 3euros
Bought a brand new LUK clutch 80 euros
Bought a brand new NGK first lambda 41 euros
Found an old 100NX airbox FREE
Found my old Z10 Alpha ex manifold FREE
Found some spare new OEM exhaust manifold gaskets FREE
Bought a CGA3 first catalizer because when I got the manifold 10 years ago I ditched it to mount the CG13 shorter one instead, thinking "I'll never have a facelift) (...) 50 euros
Bought Monroe front shocks 35x2= 70 euros minus 10 euros coupon = 60 euros
Bought KYB rear shocks 24x2= 48 euros
Bought 2 new MAPCO belts 3x2= 6 euros
Bought some cheap -20c green coolant 4 euros
Found 4 spare liters of ELF 10W40 engine oil FREE
Found 1 spare liter of Dextron for PS pump FREE
Found a spare OEM Nissan GA16 air filter to fit on the 100NX airbox FREE
Bought a dry air filter because the Nissan one was oily and I don't want to foul the cleaned CGA3 Bosch MAF 4 euros
Bought a set of colder grade spark plugs NGK BKR611 3x4= 12 euros
Found spare gearbox oil 1Lx4 75W90 FREE
Bought MAPCO ARBs links and bushes set 25 euros
Found a spare facelift speedometer with rev counter FREE
Brand new K11 parts are definitely becoming harder and harder to find, and there is less and less manufacturers choice for most of the parts...
Need to buy:
Rear main seal (changed my mind and decided to change it while I'm at it)
Spare low mileage OEM alternator because the one on the 1L engine is 180K KM and thanks to @pollyp I know they can't be fully serviced:
micra.org.uk
Spare low mileage OEM starter
Cheap device to clean the CGA3 injectors
Need to do:
Swap the 1L crank pulley onto the CGA3
Swap the 1L gearbox onto the CGA3
Swap the 1L flywheel onto the CGA3
Ship the ECU to Mark from Tornado Systems whom replied he was still provided ECU flashing and NATS removal, he also confirmed to me that both 1L and 1.4L ECU can be sent and flashed.
Done:
Gave the block a good clean with some degreaser and elbow grease
Removed the old clutch and flywheel on the CGA3,
Removed the heavy AC models specific alternator bracket plate and pulley.
Gave the MAF a good clean
Bought or found in my spare parts stock:
Bought a cheap engine lift crane 149 euros + won a 10 euros discount coupon= 139 euros
Bought some cheap plastic centering tool for the clutch install 3euros
Bought a brand new LUK clutch 80 euros
Bought a brand new NGK first lambda 41 euros
Found an old 100NX airbox FREE
Found my old Z10 Alpha ex manifold FREE
Found some spare new OEM exhaust manifold gaskets FREE
Bought a CGA3 first catalizer because when I got the manifold 10 years ago I ditched it to mount the CG13 shorter one instead, thinking "I'll never have a facelift) (...) 50 euros
Bought Monroe front shocks 35x2= 70 euros minus 10 euros coupon = 60 euros
Bought KYB rear shocks 24x2= 48 euros
Bought 2 new MAPCO belts 3x2= 6 euros
Bought some cheap -20c green coolant 4 euros
Found 4 spare liters of ELF 10W40 engine oil FREE
Found 1 spare liter of Dextron for PS pump FREE
Found a spare OEM Nissan GA16 air filter to fit on the 100NX airbox FREE
Bought a dry air filter because the Nissan one was oily and I don't want to foul the cleaned CGA3 Bosch MAF 4 euros
Bought a set of colder grade spark plugs NGK BKR611 3x4= 12 euros
Found spare gearbox oil 1Lx4 75W90 FREE
Bought MAPCO ARBs links and bushes set 25 euros
Found a spare facelift speedometer with rev counter FREE
Brand new K11 parts are definitely becoming harder and harder to find, and there is less and less manufacturers choice for most of the parts...
Need to buy:
Rear main seal (changed my mind and decided to change it while I'm at it)
Spare low mileage OEM alternator because the one on the 1L engine is 180K KM and thanks to @pollyp I know they can't be fully serviced:
PollyMobiles Rebuild
Ebays mostly the cheapest option. Other than local b&q at arm ripping rates, nothing i searched in north east sells tubes and/or cheaper than ebay or online. Can't wait to make this frame n see if it works
micra.org.uk
Cheap device to clean the CGA3 injectors
Need to do:
Swap the 1L crank pulley onto the CGA3
Swap the 1L gearbox onto the CGA3
Swap the 1L flywheel onto the CGA3
Ship the ECU to Mark from Tornado Systems whom replied he was still provided ECU flashing and NATS removal, he also confirmed to me that both 1L and 1.4L ECU can be sent and flashed.
Last edited:
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Well, I was looking for guides/infos about swaping the lighter 1L crank pulley but just found a post from @frank not recommending doing it:
micra.org.uk
Also well decided to clean the stock injectors as both @Ed from Fusion and Mark from Tornados say it's a useless mod without big power/turbo:
micra.org.uk
Mark basically said the same thing to me by email about CGA3 injectors.
Pulleys
Does anyone know if the OE pulleys can be lightened in any way? Or know were they can be brought ready done?
micra.org.uk
Injector upgrade
What's the best injector upgrade anyone's tried? I have a large flatspot in third so think its running lean so want to increase the fuel to air mix. Looking into what injectors to run alongside an afpr! Thanks Motty
micra.org.uk
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Bit of progress.
ECU removed and ready to be shipped to Mark from Tornado.
Got the car on jack stands+front wheels on planks of wood.
Started to dismantle things inside the engine bay.
Front panel unscrewed.
Engine oil, coolant and and gearbox oil flushed.
Injectors and coilpacks labelled and disconnected,
Battery tray, air intake and grounding wires removed.
Powered steering wheel pump, radiator fan, MAF, lambda, cam and flywheel sensors disconnected.
Ex manifold bolts nuts and front cat nuts removed.
So far no major difficulties, I guess spraying penetrating oil the night before helped a bit.
Also copped some nice bits, Nismo N2 front anti roll bar and Nismo strut bar:
ECU removed and ready to be shipped to Mark from Tornado.
Got the car on jack stands+front wheels on planks of wood.
Started to dismantle things inside the engine bay.
Front panel unscrewed.
Engine oil, coolant and and gearbox oil flushed.
Injectors and coilpacks labelled and disconnected,
Battery tray, air intake and grounding wires removed.
Powered steering wheel pump, radiator fan, MAF, lambda, cam and flywheel sensors disconnected.
Ex manifold bolts nuts and front cat nuts removed.
So far no major difficulties, I guess spraying penetrating oil the night before helped a bit.
Also copped some nice bits, Nismo N2 front anti roll bar and Nismo strut bar:
OP
OP
So in the end I had to remove both the engine and the attached gearbox as a whole. Because of the plate in between on the facelift models.
Therefore I had to remove the driveshafts. RHD side went out smoothly but LHD been a nightmare. The part of the driveshaft connected to the gearbox did stay locked into the gearbox, and I removed the rest of the shaft while pulling. Even with the gearbox out, it looks like it's stuck in it.
Now I need to open the engine to grab the 1.0L flywheel and install it in the new low mileage 1.4L engine, and attach the new low mileage 1.0L gearbox I bought.
Therefore I had to remove the driveshafts. RHD side went out smoothly but LHD been a nightmare. The part of the driveshaft connected to the gearbox did stay locked into the gearbox, and I removed the rest of the shaft while pulling. Even with the gearbox out, it looks like it's stuck in it.
Now I need to open the engine to grab the 1.0L flywheel and install it in the new low mileage 1.4L engine, and attach the new low mileage 1.0L gearbox I bought.
OP
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It’s been a long journey.
Completed the low mileage CGA3 swap, 1L flywheel, low mileage 1L gearbox, new clutch, new suspensions, new sensors. Refurbished the whole engine loom.
Took the car for a drive test, started 1st attempt, pulled hard and smooth, but back home it started to stall while I was parked. Now it’s not cranking again except I if slightly keep pressing on the throttle, then it runs smooth. As soon as I release the pedal it stalls tho. For information I kept the 1L ECU.
Fuel filter is new. Spark plugs color is looking good.
So now I hesitate between a few culprits:
Fuel pump
ECU
Fuel pump relay
Completed the low mileage CGA3 swap, 1L flywheel, low mileage 1L gearbox, new clutch, new suspensions, new sensors. Refurbished the whole engine loom.
Took the car for a drive test, started 1st attempt, pulled hard and smooth, but back home it started to stall while I was parked. Now it’s not cranking again except I if slightly keep pressing on the throttle, then it runs smooth. As soon as I release the pedal it stalls tho. For information I kept the 1L ECU.
Fuel filter is new. Spark plugs color is looking good.
So now I hesitate between a few culprits:
Fuel pump
ECU
Fuel pump relay
I would also look at the intake and throttle body, maybe something is out of adjustment etc. not letting enough air in for the engine to idle? I have no idea about coilpack motors, but the dizzy ones did have their fair share of throttle body related quirks.
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While removing the old fuel pump to install the used one I bought from EBay, I quickly understood what happened, the hose connected to the fuel pump got damaged and disconnected itself from the pump.
Didn’t bother myself to fix it and swapped it with the whole new assembly.
Car is now working well again the only downside of the 1L gearbox/flywheel mod is that cruising on the highway in 5th gear is now less smooth than before past 100KMH
Didn’t bother myself to fix it and swapped it with the whole new assembly.
Car is now working well again
the only downside of the 1L gearbox/flywheel mod is that cruising on the highway in 5th gear is now less smooth than before past 100KMHA K11 is scary enough in modern traffic at 100 km/h
helps you with fuel economy by keeping speeds down now at least
OP
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Another day, another hiccup, check engine light got on.
Car was running right but a bit rich/over fueling (70KM for a quarter of a fuel gauge), like if the O2 sensor was disconnected. After a quick OBD scan, faulty O2 sensor indeed:
« Funny » thing is that the manifold O2 sensor is a brand new NGK one, I did put back the old Bosch one (130 000KM), engine light didn’t come back and fuel consumption noticeably decreased and went back to normal.
Lesson: when it comes to sensors, 2001-2002 coilpack/Bosch ECU only run well with OEM Bosch ones (MAF sensors and O2 sensors).
Car was running right but a bit rich/over fueling (70KM for a quarter of a fuel gauge), like if the O2 sensor was disconnected. After a quick OBD scan, faulty O2 sensor indeed:
« Funny » thing is that the manifold O2 sensor is a brand new NGK one, I did put back the old Bosch one (130 000KM), engine light didn’t come back and fuel consumption noticeably decreased and went back to normal.
Lesson: when it comes to sensors, 2001-2002 coilpack/Bosch ECU only run well with OEM Bosch ones (MAF sensors and O2 sensors).
