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The 1.3 Turbo Battle####

Lol so which ones are we doing. Am I going to be tearing drive shafts in half then with solid mounts?

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Yeah, got a proper press at work so can make sure the feckers are in TIGHT if I do it to these. Don't think your vice would be man enough.
 
checked 2 days ago, still in situ :)

SDC12177.JPG
 
So @frank what's ur opinion on alloy mounts on side mounts? Surely we are running the risk of tearing bolts and **** cause the engine is still allowed to roll back and forward. The side mounts should be done last?

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Alloy inserts? I was gunna press in a solid ally disc with a hole in it and press the old steel inner into that. Fully solid.
 
You are far to resourceful for your own good frank.

Right so we are going for alloy engine mounts side and back... What do people think.?

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SirChris said:
So @frank what's ur opinion on alloy mounts on side mounts? Surely we are running the risk of tearing bolts and #### cause the engine is still allowed to roll back and forward. The side mounts should be done last?

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i found that the 2 side mounts dont actually move up or down chris, they just shift forwards and backwards against the little pads on the sides of the bracket, the rear one kicks the most when turbo,d, the problem with solid ones is just the mad vibration really :)
 
I have dimensions as follows for rear engine bush

73mm inside alloy mount
70mm inside steel insert.
*3mm outside steel insert thickness
17mm outside of inside insert *tight
11mm inside of inside insert
@Enuo


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the uprated rubber mounts that I got from humphris transfered a fair bit of vibration initially to the cabin but most of it is through the steering cos the rear engine mount is located right next to the steering rack. now its slightly softer but wedged a wooden piece in the rear mount to ensure its stiff.

god knows what a solid alloy engine mount will do or feel like. perhaps it'll be like sitting on a jack hammer all day. more likely to shake your body, hands, any car fasteners or windows to pieces.
for temporary racing, sure. but for long term distance travelling prob not advisable.
 
pollyp said:
the uprated rubber mounts that I got from humphris transfered a fair bit of vibration initially to the cabin but most of it is through the steering cos the rear engine mount is located right next to the steering rack. now its slightly softer but wedged a wooden piece in the rear mount to ensure its stiff.

god knows what a solid alloy engine mount will do or feel like. perhaps it'll be like sitting on a jack hammer all day. more likely to shake your body, hands, any car fasteners or windows to pieces.
for temporary racing, sure. but for long term distance travelling prob not advisable.
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Lol well we will find out Polly! Experimentation its such fun. I have been in your car its a lot more friendly than my motor. If I can put up with it it shall stay. The car is a toy car so its never needed for long journeys usually. I am curious now as to how bad it will be.

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SirChris said:
Lol well we will find out Polly! Experimentation its such fun. I have been in your car its a lot more friendly than my motor. If I can put up with it it shall stay. The car is a toy car so its never needed for long journeys usually. I am curious now as to how bad it will be.

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indeed the playful inner child in us all wants to find out by doing more :)
it'll certainly be a right laugh, shaking ur spectacles off ur head or giving the missus a premature "crysis" lol suppose it gives it character to suit ur own personality.
 
SirChris said:
Who pulled the mod hammer on you @Enuo ..

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I did, I'm getting quite fed up with the lack of verbal control on the MSC lately and I find the term ****face quite unacceptable on a family oriented forum :D

You really should change your sigs too to say something else instead of tw*t while we're on the subject :rolleyes:

Nice clutch by the way. I assume you gave that a good inspection given that it was probably taken off Robs car?
 
Low Rider said:
I did, I'm getting quite fed up with the lack of verbal control on the MSC lately and I find the term ****face quite unacceptable on a family oriented forum :D

You really should change your sigs too to say something else instead of tw*t while we're on the subject :rolleyes:

Nice clutch by the way. I assume you gave that a good inspection given that it was probably taken off Robs car?
Click to expand...
Fair. I shall call him male-chicken-face from now on (pending approval).

SirChris said:
What's the blue stuff.. Special sillycoonee

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It's actually translucent white, camera flash dude. Loctite 595. Quite stiff and sticks like digestive by-products to a blanket.
 
Low Rider said:
I did, I'm getting quite fed up with the lack of verbal control on the MSC lately and I find the term ****face quite unacceptable on a family oriented forum :D

You really should change your sigs too to say something else instead of tw*t while we're on the subject :rolleyes:

Nice clutch by the way. I assume you gave that a good inspection given that it was probably taken off Robs car?
Click to expand...

Helix
Cover 68-110R
red diaphram - what I have
silver strong 378 pounds
red med 320 pounds
blue low 170 nm
Friction Plate Helix 77-1128
Release Bearing 3050281N05 Nissan I think is the part number

Yeah re. the pistons, that one is a open to discussion subject. He is figuring that issue out for me.
Can you shed some light on the situation for me?
Yeah, I dont know how lol, change it for me? The village idiot would be nice :p
We should really tame it, well i do apologise my language is terrible on here and terrible in real life. I am sure you loved my rant on the other thread lol.

AND thank your for noticing my very nice clutch.
Yeah I gave it a once over, but I felt I did not need to worry too much because Matt did tell me it had been used in one of the rally cars for a short period with no issues... either way it was still a rather large amount of the usual buying price so I cant grumble, even having the cover and flywheel sorted for me will save cash. If i need to repad the friction plate then so be it.

Do you know the depth/thickness of a pads when you buy it new btw? So i can gauge how long this clutch has left?
 
Ah OK. I'd have gone for a 70-1028, as it would be much nicer to drive and still have plenty of capacity being organic. A 6-paddle is however less snatchy than a 4-paddle :)

Not sure I understand the colour codes, as far as I'm aware Helix rate the 68-110 cover with a release load of 335kgs. The 68-110G is a 358kg release load.

215lb/ft (292Nm) capacity on an organic plate
256lb/ft (348Nm) capacity on a cerametallic plate
 
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Low Rider said:
Ah OK. I'd have gone for a 70-1028, as it would be much nicer to drive and still have plenty of capacity being organic. A 6-paddle is however less snatchy than a 4-paddle :)

Not sure I understand the colour codes, as far as I'm aware Helix rate the 68-110 cover with a release load of 335kgs. The 68-110G is a 358kg release load.

215lb/ft (292Nm) capacity on an organic plate
256lb/ft (348Nm) capacity on a cerametallic plate
Click to expand...

Well I didnt pay full price so I choice was not on the options list :D
I get the feeling I am getting confused here...
Have I made a bad decision here...
I thought I had made a clever purchase here lol

so i see that the uprated 200 clutch kit from MH has a Clamp force of 815Kg

What does the 68-110 have? Hopefully higher than the uprated one / and the 3 padd helix I have at the moment

Nice to drive? Just comfort? I bought it for peak performance, I thought this option would be the best in that respect?

Capacity Dave?

Yes I was pleased for the 6 paddle as opposed to the 4, comparing my current 3 paddle.
 
God these figures blow my mind. Serves me right for not doing my research. I figured if it could put up with the power from that 250 hp monster, that my tiny build would not even sweat the clutch.
 
That clutch will be fine for what you'll be subjecting it to. I run a 68-110R and it's perfectly capable.

I'm just weary of anything off that white car as its been thrashed to death. Can't see from the photos but as long as the friction face on the clutch and flywheel are OK and not cracked then it'll be OK.

All I know is for some reason the owner couldn't get on with the clutch and swapped it out for something different.

Capacity = engine torque output. Looking at your dyno you're dealing about 150lb/ft which is fine :)
 
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Yeah, no cracks or nasties that I can see. Yes, I did hear about the white one.

I thought you were telling me it was inferior to something I could have bought!

Regarding capacity, do you mean the longevity of the material? or simply the amount of material on the friction plate?

Paddle clutch = less wheel spin? Might be why? I though paddles were designed to slip slightly?

So you mentioned the 68-110G earlier? typo? Did you mean G?

I have just noticed, i dont have the red diaphragm springs its blue...

I have tried to do research in to all of this and the options are not show on the website. Do you know of the information, or where I can source a pdf?
 
For info you'd have to contact Helix but the link below will give you there full catalogue. 200mm racing clutches are on page 28+

www.shonx.ru/download/Helix/Racing%20clutches.pdf

No, capacity I meant how much torque the clutch is rated to handle. Perhaps the wrong term to use but the catalogue will explain.

Paddle clutches are more grabby i.e. more on/off in engagement and do not like to or tollerate to be slipped much. They require a different driving style and for a road car an organic plate is much more forgiving. As i said, you'll find a 6-paddle less 'harsh' than a 3 or 4 paddle but it will still probably be a bit of a pita in traffic. Incidentally replacement friction plates are not too dear anyway, encase you get fed up with it.
 
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Low Rider said:
For info you'd have to contact Helix but the link below will give you there full catalogue. 200mm racing clutches are on page 28+

www.shonx.ru/download/Helix/Racing%20clutches.pdf

No, capacity I meant how much torque the clutch is rated to handle. Perhaps the wrong term to use but the catalogue will explain.

Paddle clutches are more grabby i.e. more on/off in engagement and do not like to be slipped much. They require a different driving style and for a road car an organic plate is much more forgiving. You'll find a 6-paddle less 'harsh' than a 3or 4 paddle but it will still probably be a bit of a pita in traffic. Incidentally replacement friction plates are not too dear anyway, encase you get fed up with it.
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Dave, thank you that is great, just what I need.

Most importantly, I was desperate for measurements/thickness of the friction plate when new. 7.2mm and my measurements are 7.2mm across all pads Woo!

So the Diaphram Spring is non selectable it seems.. I have a 68-110R with cerametallic plate which means I can run up to 256lb/ft of tourqe through it... bam.. no issues there.

A release load of 335kg

So, I noticed on MH pdf he had some clutches stating "clamping force", I do not see figures like that on this spec sheet.

Where has this 'blue' 170 nm diagram spring rating come from?
 
No idea on the blue rates at all.

Flywheel lightening wise, no idea. Maybe weight it?

All I can say is if the clutch and flywheel came together they're already be balanced and a bit more weight with a paddle clutch helps to combat their snatchy nature. Up to you though :)
 
See i was thinking that, which leads me on to a question I would like to bring up to everyone. Surely a heavier flywheel will help keep the balling forward. I only have power at high revs, so surely the more momentum the flywheel has on up shift, as long as I keep my foot planted the car will have no choice but to be dragger faster. basically not get bogged down and then fall out of the power range.
Low Rider said:
No idea on the blue rates at all.

Flywheel lightening wise, no idea. Maybe weight it?

All I can say is if the clutch and flywheel came together they're already be balanced and a bit more weight with a paddle clutch helps to combat their snatchy nature.
Click to expand...

Re. the snatchyness, that doesn't bother me too much. What is it with people wanting to make the cars comfortable to drive?

frank said:
what,s the total weight chris ?
Click to expand...
Will do now
 
Low Rider said:
It will just be 'suck it and see' in that case ;)
Click to expand...
ur not supposed to enjoy driving your car Dave, the enjoyment is stepping out and thanking the lord that the group is stable... plus hearing is over rated, and a good back is never something you need. Car modding is about how damaging it can be to you and the car.
 

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